Matador Network's Blog, page 1019

September 6, 2019

Bread lover's tour of Paris

In most cities around the world, if you need fresh bread you probably just grab a loaf at the local supermarket along with all your other groceries. In Paris, bread isn’t a mere grocery item; it’s a culinary treat that local bread-makers take great pride in perfecting. Going out of your way for a baguette from your favorite boulangerie is commonplace in Paris, and it speaks to the importance of good bread in French culture. Getting lost in a sea of boulangeries is common in Paris, but you don’t have to drift aimlessly. Whether it’s a shop that offers delectable gluten-free breads that are indistinguishable from the real thing or an award-winning local staple that is the official bread supplier to President Macron, these are the Paris boulangeries you should have on your radar.


1. Boulangerie Chambelland

Photo: Boulangerie Chambelland Paris/Facebook


Gluten-free dishes tend to get a bad rap, often viewed as uninspired, flavorless versions of the original. But times are changing on that front as gluten-free options become more ubiquitous, and chefs take pride in crafting delicious gluten-free products that taste just like the real thing. You might think bread is one of the toughest foods to pass the gluten-free test, but not if French bakers have anything to say about it.


Boulangerie Chambelland specializes in gluten-free baked goods, including bread, tarts, and chouquette pastries, using rice flour that makes it safe to eat for even the most gluten sensitive. And it’s so tasty that even those without allergies go out of their way for Boulangerie Chambelland’s famous sourdough, focaccia, and Chambellines.


Where: 14 Rue Ternaux, Paris, 75011


2. Le Grenier à Pain

Photo: Le Grenier à Pain/Facebook


If you rely on reviews to determine where you should buy your next fresh baguette, the recommendation of the French head of state should suffice. Indeed, Le Grenier a Pain is the official bread supplier to the president of France. Winner of the “Best Baguette in Paris” award twice, once in 2010 and again in 2015, this bakery shouldn’t take too much convincing to give a try. You’ll be able to watch bread being baked in a classic French boulangerie with red floor tiles, wooden beams, and antique furniture. There are 10 varieties of bread offered here. In addition to the famous baguette, there are also fougasses — often patterned to resemble an ear of wheat — sourdough loaves, and bread with hazelnuts, figs, and cereals.


And if the line is too long, don’t worry. Located in the 18th arrondissement, Le Grenier a Pain is in the heart of a neighborhood known for its excellent bread options: Bakeries in the Montmartre area have won the “Best Baguette in Paris” prize five times between 2005 and 2015.


Where: 38 Rue des Abbesses, 75018


3. Maison Landemaine

Photo: Maison Landemaine/Facebook


Maison Landemaine might seem like an unusual pick for a traditional French bakery as one of the owners is actually Japanese. But that only adds to the bakery’s eclectic assortment of offerings. Owned by husband-and-wife pair Pierre Herme and Yoshimi Ishikawa, this boulangerie is the perfect blend of traditional French baking methods and Japanese innovation, including the actual exchange of goods between France and Japan. Indeed, the owners opened a second bakery in Tokyo in 2015, which puts a cultural twist on familiar French favorites.


The bakery prides itself on its use of eco-friendly organic flour supplied by sustainable agriculture and its homemade leavening process, which makes no two baguettes the same. The Nordic bread, focaccia, autumnal bread, cocoa bread, and Auvergnate rye bread are among the specialties. Maison Landemaine has locations in the ninth, 10th, 11th, 12th, and 18th arrondissements.


Where: 26 Rue des Martyrs, 75009, Paris


4. Poilâne

Photo: POILÂNE/Facebook


One of Paris’s oldest continuously operating bakeries, Pierre Poliane opened Poliâne in 1932. The bakery has remained in the family business; the Poliane family owns and operates the shop today. Through the decades it has become a local favorite for its rye, raisin, and nut breads, but it’s perhaps most famous for its 4.5-pound sourdough country bread baked from stone-ground flour. The secret to its killer sourdough lies in using a wheat flour blend made from stone-ground French grains; in other products, the bakery incorporates buckwheat, barley, corn, millet, oats, rice, rye, and spelt to achieve the signature flavor.


And even if you’re not in Paris, that doesn’t mean you can’t still try a hearty loaf of Poliane’s sourdough. One of the best aspects of this bakery is its online ordering system. Simply place an order online, and they will bake, package, and deliver bread right to your door with a guarantee of freshness.


Where: 8 rue du Cherche Midi, 75006, Paris


5. Le Moulin de la Vierge

Photo: Le moulin de la vierge/Facebook


If you’ve ever drifted into a daydream and imagined your perfect French bakery experience, chances are your mind conjured up something that looks like Le Moulin de la Vierge. The bakery, which has been around since the 1970s, was originally founded as a space for music journalist Basile Kamir to house his record collection. Its interior is adorned with gold-painted letters, vintage mirrors, and a hand-painted fresco on the ceiling. When Basile realized the building was slated for demolition, he made an improbable career shift and started the bakery to save the building. Forty years later, the boulangerie is still going strong.


Le Moulin de la Vierge is known for its use of organic flour and, above all, its wood-fired cooking method. It specializes in pain de campagne, sourdough baguettes, and the pain aux raisins pastry (a custard-filled pastry with raisins). Its flagship location is in the seventh arrondissement, but there are two other locations in the 14th and 15th arrondissements.


Where: 64 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007, Paris


6. Boulangerie Au 140

Photo: Boulangerie Au 140


When it comes to accolades, Boulangerie Au 140 gives Le Grenier à Pain a run for its money. Boulangerie Au 140 once served as the official bread supplier to the presidential palace though it hasn’t held that designation since 2001 — the same year its baguette was named best in Paris. Courtesy of master baker Pierre Demoncy, the boulangerie has also won awards for its croissants, so no matter what you decide to eat here, you really can’t go wrong.


Boulangerie Au 140 is known for its wide selection of bread, from the classic baguette to its special leavened almond bread. There are over 30 varieties to choose from, and for dessert, there are cakes, éclairs, millefeuilles, and buttery pastries.


Where: 140 Rue de Belleville, 75020, Paris


7. Gontran Cherrier

Photo: Gontran Cherrier/Facebook


Gontran Cherrier started in Paris but has expanded his bread empire all over the world, going as far as Australia. His very first boutique, however, is a small shop in the 17th arrondissement. It has classic baguettes, loaves, and almond croissants, but it’s also known for more inventive items like paprika buns, squid-ink rolls, and loaves made with red miso, molasses, and coriander seeds. This creative touch is what makes Cherrier’s bread world famous. The shop’s signature “monochrome bun range” is one of the most eye-catching things in the shop, with a lineup of breads colored red from paprika, black from squid ink, and green from nigella.


Where: 8 Rue Juliette Lamber, 75017 Paris


More like this: 7 mouth-watering pastry shops you must check out in Paris


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Published on September 06, 2019 14:00

The most beautiful cemetery in Japan

Concealed amid towering cedar trees on top of Mount Koya stands the Okunoin cemetery. A maze of ancient, mossy tombstones, its pathways lead to the mausoleum of one of Japanese Buddhism’s most important figures, Kobo Daishi. Also known as Kukai, Kobo Daishi is said to rest in Okunoin in eternal meditation, making the cemetery one the most sacred locations in Japan. The ethereal atmosphere of this final resting place draws pilgrims, as well as tourists who wants to find some spiritual peace.


Koyasan

Photo: Jan K/Shutterstock


Mount Koya — known as Koyasan in Japanese — is a tiny temple town located deep in the rugged Kii mountain range of Wakayama prefecture. Geographically and spiritually raised above everyday society, it was set up by Kobo Daishi — a monk, poet, and scholar who founded the influential Shingon sect of Buddhism in Japan — in the ninth century as a retreat from the concerns of worldly affairs. Shrouded in incense smoke, the narrow streets of Koyasan echo with the sound of gongs and prayers, transporting you to a place of solemn tranquility as soon as you arrive.


The cemetery

Photo: David Varga/Shutterstock


Okunoin is in the eastern part of Koya, surrounded by forest. Around one-and-a-half miles long and the site of over 200,000 graves, it’s the largest cemetery in Japan. Beginning at the Ichi-no-hashi bridge, stone pathways lined with trees and lanterns lead through the tombstones, bringing you towards Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum.


The cemetery is home to a mix of graves, including those of ancient feudal lords, prominent monks, and military commanders such as Date Masamune, who founded the city of Sendai in northern Japan. These are juxtaposed with contemporary graves, such as symbolic monuments from companies like Panasonic to honor employees who have passed away, as well as more unusual monuments — including a memorial from a pest control company to all the creatures their products have exterminated. The more modern graves tend to be located in the newer section of the cemetery, which has a shorter path to the mausoleum beginning at the Okunoin-mae bus stop.


Photo: David Varga/Shutterstock


While most people visit Okunoin during the day, it’s also possible to wander the cemetery at night. The quiet, haunting atmosphere at this time is especially memorable. Early mornings are another good time to visit, when mist lingers in the cool air, and the cemetery takes on a particularly mystical vibe.


Unique features

Photo: Photonyx Images/Shutterstock


In addition to the tombstones themselves, there are a number of other interesting features to be found on the route to the mausoleum. The most unsettling of these is the Sugatami-no-Ido, or Well of Reflections, found just after the Naka-no-hashi bridge in the middle of the cemetery. Legend has it that if you look into this tiny well but don’t see your reflection, you are fated to die within the next three years.


Closer to the mausoleum you’ll see the Miroku stone, which is kept in a small wooden cage with an opening just big enough to reach inside. It is claimed that the stone is able to judge the worth of those who attempt to lift it, feeling light to the virtuous and heavy to the sinful.


You’ll also come across numerous jizo statues scattered throughout the cemetery grounds. Jizo is a Buddhist deity who protects travelers, children, and the souls of the deceased. His statues are often found in places that are thought to be a boundary between the physical and spiritual realms — like Okunoin. The moss-covered stone monuments are often dressed in red bibs or caps and sometimes even adorned with red paint, which is thought to be a way of protecting the souls of departed children.


Hall of Lanterns

Photo: Mirko Kuzmanovic/Shutterstock


The path eventually reaches the Gobyo-no-hashi bridge, which marks the entrance to the most sacred inner part of Okunoin. This is where the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi is located. Once you cross this bridge, visitors are not permitted to eat, drink, or take photographs.


While entry to the mausoleum itself is not possible, you can visit Torodo Hall, the Hall of Lanterns. This is the cemetery’s main place of worship, where pilgrims come to pray to Kobo Daishi. Inside are over 10,000 lanterns, which are kept permanently lit — according to legend, some have been burning for over 1,000 years. Beneath the hall lies a labyrinthine room whose walls are lined floor to ceiling with tens of thousands of tiny Buddha statues that have been donated to Okunoin.


Temple lodging

Photo: twoKim images/Shutterstock


Many of the temples on Mount Koya — including Joki-in, Eko-in, and Saizen-in — open their doors to overnight guests. The accommodation provided is similar to a traditional Japanese ryokan (inn) rather than the austere conditions you might expect. You’ll usually get a private room with a comfy futon bed and tatami mat flooring, and there might even be a shared onsen (hot spring bath) on site. Breakfast and dinner are usually included with the price of the room, and it’s a great chance to try shojin ryori. This traditional vegetarian Buddhist cuisine is exquisitely presented and features local, seasonal ingredients, such as Koya’s famous freeze-dried tofu.


As part of your temple stay, or shukubo, you’ll also have the opportunity to take part in meditation classes and early morning prayer ceremonies. The latter are usually only open to people staying overnight at that particular temple and are definitely worth the 5:00 AM start. Each temple will have its own unique ceremony, but you can expect a mixture of chanting, meditation, and the offering of incense.


Kongobu-ji temple

Photo: alinasharoiko/Shutterstock


If you’re making the effort to travel all the way to Mount Koya, it would be a shame to only visit Okunoin. Make time for Kongobu-ji temple, the head temple of Shingon Buddhism in Japan and the most important temple in the town. You can take a self-guided tour around its main buildings for a small fee, during which you can admire the ceremony halls and elegant artwork depicting flowers, wildlife, and Koya in different seasons.


Photo: Sabino Parente/Shutterstock


The temple is also home to the largest Zen garden in Japan at nearly 25,295 square feet. The Banryutei Rock Garden’s abstract design is intended to depict a pair of mighty dragons materializing from a sea of clouds to protect Kongobu-ji and is an ideal place for contemplation.


Getting there

Osaka is the nearest major city to Mount Koya. From Namba station, take the Nankai Limited Express or Nankai Koya local line to Gokurakubashi (the latter is the cheaper option, with a longer journey time). From here you take the cable car up to Koyasan station. You will then need to take a short bus ride to reach the town center as pedestrians are not allowed on the narrow road.


There are two or three buses an hour that run directly to Okunoin. One option is to get off at the Ichinohashi-guchi bus stop and walk the traditional one-and-a-half-mile route through the cemetery to the mausoleum. Alternatively, stay on the bus until Okunoin-mae and take a shorter path through a newer section.


If you’re not going directly from the cable car to the cemetery, you also have the option to walk from the town center. It’s an easy 10-15 minute walk from the main Senjuinbashi intersection, and you’ll pass plenty of interesting sights along the way, including tea houses, souvenir shops, and temples.


More like this: 6 temple hotels in Japan for travelers seeking solitude


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Published on September 06, 2019 13:00

Best breakfast restaurants in Miami

Breakfast in Miami is just as sacred a meal as the post-workout protein shake the bodybuilders in South Beach chug to get energy for the rest of the long, 90-degree day. Just beware: Miamians are notorious for being late, whether from the mind-numbing traffic or a hangover from bar hopping in Brickell. We’ll make it eventually. Starting off the day with a cafecito in hand is of the utmost importance to Miamians. Here are six local-approved breakfast joints, whether you want hearty or healthy, to kick off a day in the Magic City.


1. Jimmy’s Eastside Diner

Photo: Jimmy’s Eastside Diner/Keven Weathers/Facebook


Few tourists tend to venture into Miami’s Upper East Side, allowing locals to enjoy the neighborhood’s bevy of new boutiques and hip bars undisturbed. Only a handful of restaurants have stood the test of time, seeing the area shift from seedy hangout to historic, trendy paradise. Jimmy’s Eastside Diner is arguably the best of the bunch. Guests walking through the doors are welcomed by Shorty, a waitress who has commanded the eatery for over 30 years, then seated at a red vinyl booth. In-the-know locals can be spotted every Sunday noshing on golden hash browns, biscuits baked fresh by the hour, and Jimmy’s Jumbo Country Sausage, a six-inch-long link that will cure any morning after hangovers. Did I mention that it’s all under $10? Without even a website to boast about its history, many would never know the pivotal final scenes of Oscar-winning Moonlight were filmed in this diner.


Where: 7201 Biscayne Boulevard, Miami, FL


2. Tinta y Cafe

Photo: Tinta y Café/Facebook


With gleaming wood panel beams overhead, a glass wall strewn with vintage paperbacks, and ‘50s-era furniture loosely arranged around the open concept kitchen, you’ll feel like you’re in the heart of Havana rather than at Tinta y Cafe in Coral Gables’ Mediterranean-style city center. The gourmet cafeteria has been in business for 15 years. The Santamaria family runs the restaurant. The Santamarias are Cuban-Americans serving the island’s traditional breakfasts of carb-heavy, protein-packed sandwiches paired alongside croquettas and cortaditos. First-timers can try the namesake pressed breakfast sandwich featuring sizzling pork, prosciutto, and manchego cheese alongside a jet-fuel strength colada for 24-hour energy.


Where: 1315 Ponce De Leon Blvd, Coral Gables, FL 33134


3. Delicious Raw

Photo: Delicious Raw/Facebook


Located in Miami Beach’s fit-focused neighborhood of Sunset Harbour, Delicious Raw offers the toned and tanned locals a vegetarian, all-day breakfast menu. The casual restaurant, opened by Danish expat Flemming Madsen, takes advantage of Florida’s local produce whenever ingredients are in season, leading to a frequently shifting menu. Start the day with the most popular breakfast bite, the LeSmash, an upgrade to your typical avocado toast featuring black truffle oil, peak-ripe cherry tomatoes, microgreens, pumpkin seed dukkah, and shaved parmesan. If you’re craving something more indulgent but equally nutritious, go for the Righteous Waffle, made with energy-sustaining ancient grains and homemade vanilla almond milk then topped with a tart blueberry-lemon compote.


Where: 1828 Bay Rd, Miami Beach, FL 33139


4. Alaska Coffee Roasting Company

Photo: Alaska Coffee Roasting of Miami/Facebook


It’s no surprise that just steps from a university campus sits one of the best coffee joints in the city. Alaska Coffee Roasting Company, as its name suggests, is a small-batch team of roasters that first opened up shop in Alaska before migrating down to North Miami and setting up a full-service restaurant. The owner, Michael Gesser, lived in Kenya for nearly a decade and developed a passion for the coffee-making process. Today, he works with producers from around the world, bringing home varietals from Jamaica’s famed Blue Mountains to the lesser-known beans of Uganda’s Sipi region.


The eatery is a local haunt for students from the neighboring Florida International University and Johnson & Wales University campuses, and it serves more than just java with a mouth-watering array of pastries lining the front counter. For a satisfying start to your morning, try the customizable breakfast pizza, topped with egg, ground sausage, and roasted red peppers baked in a wood fire oven before your eyes. End the meal with a Milan San Remo Espresso, the shop’s sweet and well-balanced seasonal blend.


Where: 13130 Biscayne Blvd, North Miami, FL 33181


5. OTL

Photo: OTL MIA/Facebook


Add OTL to the growing list of celebrity-swamped and religiously Instagrammed eateries by infamous nightclub owner and restaurateur David Grutman. Thankfully, OTL gives off a more laid-back vibe than his other projects. Located in Miami’s see-and-be-seen Design District, the casual café offers an all-day breakfast menu of sweet and savory dishes like the egg and cheese sandwich, which is a two-egg omelette on buttery brioche with cheddar, arugula, and poached tomato. A favorite amongst the snap-happy diners is the picture perfect Super Seed Butter Toast topped with meticulously places blueberries, sliced bananas, a light lemon zest and Maldon sea salt. Before you leave, grab an iced coffee by Counter Culture and do some window shopping around the ritzy boutiques next door.


Where: 160 NE 40th St, Miami, FL 33137


6. Greenstreet Cafe

Photo: GreenStreet Cafe/Facebook


Greenstreet Cafe is a Coconut Grove mainstay, standing as the neighborhood’s unrivaled breakfast spot for the last 30 years. The hours of inebriated conversation during a boozy brunch easily make up for the hour-long wait on a Saturday morning, especially if you’re sipping on a Grove Goddess, a breakfast tipple made with St-Germain, watermelon juice, and Aperol. If you want to avoid the crowds, go on a weekday and score prime seating on the cobblestoned terrace. For a classic breakfast, the popular Nova Platter with fresh sliced red onions, salty capers, and cream cheese never disappoints. More adventurous diners not afraid to ruin their beach bods can indulge in the massive Nutella French Toast, a thick cut loaf stuffed with the creamy hazelnut spread, topped with juicy strawberries, and sprinkled with powdered sugar. Calorie counters beware.


Where: 3468 Main Hwy, Miami, FL 33133


More like this: The best places to eat in Miami right now


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Published on September 06, 2019 12:30

Best US national parks for dogs

National parks are a showcase of the United States’ diverse, beautiful geography and wildlife. You can see the parks on a quick day hike, commit to a multi-day trek, or camp out under the stars in the thousands of acres protected by national park status. With all of that open space, it seems like a shame to leave behind your dog. Luckily, the US national park system has spots ideal for visitors with four-footed companions.


National parks are meant to preserve their land and wildlife, which means they are not free-range dog parks. Pack your pup’s leash, follow all park rules, and experience the unique splendor of these seven dog-friendly national parks.


1. Acadia National Park

Photo: Mike Photoluvr/Shutterstock


Acadia National Park in Maine has the distinction of being almost entirely open to dogs. Dogs can traverse 100 of the 158 miles of hiking trails that wind through this coastal park. Like at all national parks, dogs need to be kept on a leash six feet in length or shorter. With that in mind, you can set out for trails that hug the rocky shoreline of the Atlantic, or you can strike deeper into the wooded interior of Acadia.


Acadia has no shortage of scenery. If you want to take your dog for one of the best views in the park, hike the easy Cadillac Summit Path. This paved path will be easy on your dog’s paws, and its vantage point from the summit of Cadillac Mountain has sweeping views of Bar Harbor and the park’s foliage.


2. Cuyahoga Valley National Park

Photo: Michael Shake/Shutterstock


The coasts of the US often steal the spotlight, but the Midwest’s flat topography is home to national parks worth visiting — particularly if you want to take a dog-friendly trip. Cuyahoga Valley National Park in Ohio, sprawling across a verdant river valley, has more than 110 miles of hiking trails open to dogs. The park is within minutes of Cleveland and Akron, which is a big plus if you and your dog want to mix park time with urban relaxation.


Challenge yourself and your dog with The Ledges Trail. The trail is only a couple of miles, but it necessitates climbing several sets of stairs and scrambling over rocks. The moss-covered stone of the ledges creates a backdrop worth the workout.


3. Grand Canyon National Park

Photo: Kara Arceneaux/Shutterstock


Arizona’s Grand Canyon is a bucket-list landmark for a reason. The vertiginous view from the rim and the striking colors of the stone draw millions of visitors. Grand Canyon National Park is not completely accessible to dogs. You can explore the trails of the south rim together, but the inner canyon trails are off limits.


The 13-mile Rim Trail is a popular walk for people with pets. The mostly paved trail snakes along the edge of the canyon and has several stop-off points for admiring the interior of the Grand Canyon. If you want to squeeze in some people-only hikes, the South Rim Kennel offers boarding services.


4. Great Sand Dunes National Park

Photo: Brian Wolski/Shutterstock


Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado gives you and your dog an opportunity for a freer experience. The park’s centerpiece is a 30-square-mile dune field, none of which has designated trails. Hikers and dogs can explore the dune field together, although the backcountry of this area is off limits to pets. Keep in mind the time of day and season when stepping onto the sand. You probably have hiking boots, but your dog’s paws are susceptible to the hot sands.


Climb to the summit of High Dune on First Ridge for one of the most sought-after views in the park. For days that will be too hot on your dog’s feet, retreat to the forested trails of Great Sand Dunes National Park.


5. North Cascades National Park

Photo: Kevin Lobene/Shutterstock


North Cascades National Park allows dogs on one trail. That may not seem like a lot, but the Pacific Crest Trail is one of the most celebrated hikes in the country. The trail stretches up the western coast of the United States, all the way from Mexico to Canada. Approximately 18 miles of the trail cut through this Washington national park.


Take your leashed dog on a long day hike to catch the mountainous views that surround this beloved trail. You can also bring your furry companion with you to the park’s Ross Lake and Lake Chelan Recreation Areas.


6. Petrified Forest National Park

Photo: MNStudio/Shutterstock


The Grand Canyon isn’t the only Arizona park worth a visit with your dog. Petrified Forest National Park is so pet-friendly that it has a program for dog owners. The delightfully punny Bark Ranger program helps owners learn the responsible way to enjoy the park with their dog and, of course, comes with treats.


Dogs are allowed on any of the park’s paved roads and trails, which means you can explore most of this colorful park. Named for its petrified wood of many hues, there are multiple spots that make the perfect photo-op for your dog. For a quick introduction to the park, try the one-mile Painted Desert Rim Trail, or go a little further to discover an ancient pueblo off of the two-mile Agate House trail.


7. Shenandoah National Park

Photo: JenKur/Shutterstock


Before setting out on foot, take your dog for a picturesque drive on Skyline Drive to see miles of Shenandoah National Park. The mountainous national park, located in Virginia, is characterized by waterfalls, wooded land, and enviable fall foliage. Of the 500 miles of hiking trails that run through Shenandoah, dogs are prohibited from exploring just a handful.


If you aren’t sure where you and your leashed dog should start, the Rose River Falls trail will give you a taste of what to expect in Shenandoah. The 2.6-mile trail takes you to a 67-foot waterfall and challenges you to climb about 720 feet.


More like this: The 10 most dog-friendly airports in the US


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Published on September 06, 2019 12:00

Las Vegas airport food and drinks

The Las Vegas McCarran International Airport is designed to get a lot of people in and out of Sin City as efficiently as possible. It does a fine job of that. It also does a fine, if not great, job at feeding those people and giving them plenty of watering holes to empty their winnings (or whatever’s left) at.


The first thing you’ll notice no matter which gate you’re flying out of are Sprinkles vending machines. The cupcakes that come out of said vending machines are always accessible and surprisingly tasty. If you’re looking for something more, there are plenty of fast-food restaurants to choose from. Bars and other restaurants are limited, but available, unless you’re by the C Gates in Terminal 1.


These are the best places to eat in each terminal at the Las Vegas McCarran International Airport.


Terminal 1 — A Gates

The B Lounge: This Budweiser-owned bar serves, you guessed it, Budweiser products. Beers on draft and a full bar have you covered on the drinks side while some small bar snacks are on the menu if you’re hungry. A fine place to watch sports and drink a beer, for an airport.


Where: Near Gate A5


Stella Artois Bar: A small bar with Stella on tap in the middle of the circle of Gates A10-A15. The bar isn’t much, but then again there’s not much at all by the A Gates other than these two bars, a Moe’s Southwest Grill, and a notoriously slow cheesesteak shop.


Where: Near Gates A10 through A15


Terminal 1 — B Gates

PGA Tour Grill: A chain of restaurants where you can order from a mashup menu covering basic favorites like burgers, pizza, pasta, and standard egg breakfasts. There’s a full bar as well.


Where: In the middle of B Gates’ two concourses


Red Star Lounge: A Heineken bar (hence the “Red Star” in the name) with a handful of beers and ciders on draft and in a bottle. There’s also a limited liquor selection for basic cocktails and neat pours — all of which are airport prices. No food. The barstools offer a view of the TVs, but don’t feel restricted to sticking around because you can take your drink to-go at McCarran Airport.


Where: Near Gate B9


Terminal 1 — C Gates

Brookwood Farms BBQ: Carolina barbecue in a Nevada airport. While it’s not to be compared with anything you’d find at a true Carolina barbecue spot, it’s filling and relatively well priced for an airport.


Where: Near Gate C14


Corcoran’s Irish Pub: Pub with some Irish touches that serves Guinness (and other beers and ciders) on tap. Also has a full, if basic, liquor bar for simple cocktails and beer-and-a-shot combos. Only small pre-packaged foods, so stick to the drinks.


Where: Near Gate C2


Crafted Bar: It’s not craft in the sense of craft beer (there are two taps and bottles from big labels) or in the sense of craft liquor (there’s a dedicated Fireball pouring machine). It is a fine bar to walk up to for a quick drink while you get your flight, then take your drink back to a seat because the small, against-the-wall bar isn’t much for ambiance.


Where: Near Gate C7


Jose Cuervo Tequileria: You know the tequila brand. In addition to tequila, there are other spirits to round out the full range of basic cocktails, as well as a decent beer selection and wines by the glass or bottle. The food is Southwest-style Mexican fare like big burritos and enchiladas, along with basic tacos, nachos, and quesadillas.


Where: Near Gate C5


Lucky Streak Lounge: Buffalo wings and other standard bar fare alongside a full bar. There are some craft options (and semi-local craft options) unlike most places at McCarran.


Where: Near Gate C22


Sammy’s Beach Bar & Grill: The bar food is basic and, in a way, beachy with options like burgers. The decor is even more beachy with surfboards on the ceiling and plenty of bright colors. A solid selection of rums complements a full cocktail, beer, and wine list.


Where: Near Gate C23


Terminal 1 — D Gates

Burke in the Box: Basic American airport restaurant with a full bar. One of the few places around the D Gates that isn’t a mega-chain recognized around the country.


Where: Near Gate D52


Estrella Jalisco Bar: A small but full bar owned by the Estrella beer brand. Perfect for a grab-and-go drink, and that’s all.


Where: Near Gate D7


Sammy’s Woodfired Pizza & Grill: A local pizza chain with burgers and other small plates. Wine and beer options available.


Where: Across from Gate D6


Terminal 3

The Village Pub: Fried pub food and sandwiches. Pair it up with a local beer.


Where: Near Gate E14


Las Vegas ChopHouse & Brewery: Run-of-the-mill steakhouse with salmon and sirloin. Full bar to help pass the time when you have too much of it before your flight.


Where: Near Gate E8


More like this: 21 awesome things you can do for free in Las Vegas


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Published on September 06, 2019 11:30

September 5, 2019

How to plan extended family travel

As we find ourselves careening toward the holidays, someone in your family will inevitably suggest doing Thanksgiving or Christmas off-site. That is, taking the whole family to a beach or a mountain, forging holiday memories that will last a lifetime.


Now, whether those memories are fond or traumatic will depend on a lot of things, but the one you can control most is how well you plan the trip. Multi-generational travel is a whole different beast than planning for just yourself or your family. You’ve got all sorts of different interests, age groups, and often cultures to consider, as well as the logistics of planning something for a large group of people. All kinds of things need to be considered when putting a trip this large together, and here are 10 tips to make it as successful as possible.


Find a destination that’s easy (and cheap) to fly to.

The mantra of planning these kinds of trips is “the simpler the better,” and that starts with your locale. And tempting as it might be to have the whole mishpacha fly to the little slice of paradise you found in the far-east Caribbean during your last solo cruise, getting there can be a logistical nightmare. Never mind flights to hard-to-reach destinations cost a fortune, complicated itineraries also open up the door for missed connections and long delays. And for those traveling with small children, hustling through multiple airports is a mission.


Opt instead for a destination with a large number of nonstop flights from the cities where your family lives. This can include a ton of Mexican destinations, as well as much of Florida and even Hawaii.


Look at somewhere within driving distance.

Though you may only have one or two people traveling in your party, chances are some part of your family will be shelling out for four or five plane tickets. So you may want to look at a destination that’s reachable by car rather than an island or far-flung foreign country. Even if that drive is 12-14 hours, it’ll still be preferable to paying for five flights anywhere, and the less stressed people are about money, the happier they will be.


Consider your family’s planning styles.

It is important to remember that the way your family plans trips may not be the way, say, your in-laws plan trips. Perhaps your family is happy to have one person take control, plan an itinerary, and send everyone a bill. But you may have newer family members who consider vacation planning a more collective experience. If that’s the case, you need to make sure they feel like they had some input in the process, or you won’t get much buy-in and likely less participation. Though you might consider it a logistical hurdle, making sure everyone’s planning styles are respected is an important early step.


Be realistic about everyone’s budget and comfort level.

You, the intrepid world traveler, may have no problems spending a week in a hostel dorm room. Your septuagenarian aunt and uncle who have elite status with SPG, however, may need something a little nicer. That said, your cousin with two kids under four who just bought a new house might not have the budget for a luxury resort. Finding an acceptable resort is a balancing act that can sometimes prove impossible and a big reason why some families just opt for the 10-bedroom villa.


Before booking anything, ask everyone what their legitimate budget for lodging might be. Then use that as your standard when searching resorts. You may find something that’s a little out of some people’s budget, and it’s still fine to run it by them. But you will also need to offer more-budget options that would still be acceptable to your family members who are regulars at the St. Regis.


Think long and hard before getting that giant house.

Ten-bedroom villas on the Mexican Riviera might look tempting, what with their infinity pools and thousand-square-foot patios. But if your family can’t afford a staff to cook your meals and clean up after you, the diffusion of responsibility can lead to a vacation of chaos.


Imagine you have 15-20 people in the same house. Making food for that many people is no small undertaking, and it will typically fall on the shoulders of whoever is nice enough to cook the first time — who after about day two will start getting reeeeal resentful. Or it won’t happen at all, as everyone just kind of sits around and waits for someone to start cooking. Same goes for cleaning, both in the kitchen and everywhere else in the house.


Sleep and activity schedules can get complicated in a big house too. You may have younger people in the house who don’t necessarily feel like going to bed after 7:00 PM tubby time for the little ones. And you may have an older relative who lives by the credo, “Nothing good ever happens after 8:00 PM.” Those people will all be on vastly different sleep schedules, and if the young people come home at 3:00 AM and wake everyone up, it’s a recipe for drama.


Point is, that house might look nice, but in practice, it’s a logistical nightmare. Opt for individual rooms, condos, or separate Airbnbs so that everyone can enjoy family time during the day and then go back to their much-needed private quarters in the evening.


Lean toward condos versus hotels.

Resorts are likely a better alternative than a big house or hotels, both because they offer separate condos where people can operate on their own schedules and because they offer activities, meals, and other entertainment you won’t have to plan. Condos also often come with kitchens, if you do feel like having dinner at home a couple of times. And multi-bedroom setups allow for the best cost efficiency. I might not want to share a hotel room with my brother and his wife, for example. But splitting a two-bedroom condo — which is usually about the same price — just feels like being roommates.


Get all the info on childcare.

The childless among us really have no idea all the little costs that go into having kids. Childcare on vacation is a big one, and every hotel and resort has different options. Some include childcare in the price of your stay, and offer kids clubs where you can drop your kids while you go off remembering what life was like before them. Some charge for said kids clubs, which needs to be factored into the cost of the resort. Some offer none at all, which means family members with small children will be limited in what they can do.


Think about what different people want to do and research activities.

Nothing buzzkills a family vacation faster than starting each day with a rousing game of, “I dunno, what do you wanna do?”


So finding a resort with activities that fit as many people’s interests as possible is crucial. You may be a big diver. Your cousins may prefer doing food tours. Your father-in-law may just want a big pool. Regardless of what your family enjoys, think about everyone’s interest — or at least what you know of them — and find a place that has as many as possible.


That said, planning large group activities, like fishing charters or golf excursions, can be a challenge since budgets and interests vary. Even if you’re leading the trip planning, leave group-activity planning to the people who want to do it as they’ll have the most drive and motivation to make it happen. Don’t force anyone into doing activities they aren’t interested in doing.


Plan meals both separately and together.

Again, cooking food for 15-20 people is an unenviable task. As is trying to figure out a bill for 15-20 with multiple families and multiple budgets. Yes, the idea is to have some togetherness over the holidays, so you should still plan a few big group meals despite whatever headaches it might bring. But you also must absolutely plan most of them separately, keeping with the mantra “the simpler, the better.”


Spell out the logistics for everyone.

This means about two-to-three weeks out, send an email to everyone detailing all the pertinent info they’ll need once arriving at the destination. A good guideline for explaining those details is to imagine you are writing it for the youngest literate member of your family. Tailoring the whole thing to an eight-year-old will, hopefully, ensure nobody gets confused.


This email should include everything from the address and phone number of the resort (older people may not be so big on Google) to airport transfer options and how meals will work. Are you getting communal groceries? Cool, spell out the time and place you’ll be going and how much people should budget. Detail how to find childcare and where activities are. Offer contact info for group activities people might want to plan. The less ambiguity the less confusion, and the simpler language you use, the more people will understand.


Remember to have fun! But not too much fun.

The point of this whole thing is to give everyone a few days away where they can cut loose around people who literally have no choice but to deal with it. So make the most of it! It’s not everyday you get to knock back shots with grandparents or share beers with cousins from across the country, so once you’re there make every attempt you can to have a good time. That said, overconsumption has been known, in SOME cases, to lead to unplanned family drama. So just make sure to drink responsibly, even if you have nowhere else to go.


More like this: The kids are back in school. Time to take a trip without them.


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Published on September 05, 2019 16:00

Teahouse treks in Nepal

With an extensive network of trails, experienced guides and porters, and jaw-dropping views of the highest mountains in the world, it’s no surprise that the Himalayas in Nepal are the beating heart of the world’s hiking and backpacking adventures. But with hiking holidays becoming ever more popular, you won’t be the only one hitting the trails there. There are alternative treks, though, where you can still find that deep connection with nature away from the crowds and get to know the warm locals who live on the Himalayan slopes.


Nepal has seen a huge spike in visitors since the earthquake in 2015, with over one million tourists flying into Kathmandu in 2018 alone. With the demands of the ever-flowing foot traffic, what were once simple teahouses and remote mountain trails have been transformed into busy, commercial enterprises. Treks with well-known names such as the Annapurna Circuit and Everest Base Camp see thousands of trekkers each season, which can make for crammed teahouses, traffic jams on the trails, and overpriced dal bhat (Nepal’s favorite meal of rice, dahl, and vegetables). Check out these other treks, and you’ll find the serenity and local connection you seek.


What is teahouse trekking?

Photo: Phuong D. Nguyen/Shutterstock


Teahouse trekking is the most common way people explore the Himalayas in Nepal. Across the national parks of Langtang and Sagarmatha and the Annapurna Conservation Area, an extensive network of teahouses or lodges offers basic meals and beds to hungry and tired trekkers. The beauty of teahouse trekking is that it minimizes much of the need to carry camping and cooking equipment or plan extensive logistics like campsites. On most treks in these parks, you barely have to walk for an hour or two before coming across another teahouse, and usually at the popular overnight stops, you’ll find a whole cluster of them offering relatively similar menus and rooms.


1. Khopra Ridge/Khayer Lake trek (Annapurna Conservation Area)

Photo: Daniel Prudek/Shutterstock


Highest point: Khopra Ridge: 11,940 feet (14,800 feet if you go to Khayer Lake)

Time required: five-eight days


This is perhaps one of the least-known teahouse treks in Nepal. If you mention to someone that you’re considering hiking Khopra Ridge, you’ll most likely get a response of, “What? Where?” It’s technically a part of the network of community treks created by Mahabir Pun, the social entrepreneur best known for bringing internet to rural Nepal. Some of the teahouses here are community-run, and the money they generate goes back into supporting schools and health clinics in nearby villages. True to Mahabir’s tech aspirations, the lodge at Khopra Ridge even has decent WiFi, which seems like a real treat at 11,900 feet.


The trek generally starts in Nayapul, the same trailhead as for the popular Poon Hill and Annapurna Base Camp treks. It initially follows the Poon Hill trail, so for the first two days you’ll follow a conga line of other trekking groups and mule caravans on your way to Ghorepani.


From there, the way to Khopra Ridge diverts off the main route, and it’s following this minor trail that you’ll come to realize the joys of being on a lesser-known trek. As the path winds further away from village life and deeper into the Annapurna Conservation Area, you’ll pass fewer people along the way. The final push up to Khopra Ridge is relatively steep, but you’ll have Mount Dhaulagiri, the seventh highest peak in the world, appearing closer in front of you like a northern star guiding the way.


From the community teahouse perched on the plateau at Khopra Ridge, there is perhaps the best view of Mount Dhaulagiri in the entire region, as well as Annapurna South seeming almost close enough to touch. From Khopra it is possible, depending on the season, to take a long day hike to Khayer Lake, a spectacular high-altitude, fluorescent-blue lake sitting at 14,800 feet.


From Khopra, you have two options to return to Pokhara. The shorter route means taking the trail down to Tatopani where it’s possible to get transport. If you have a couple of extra days, you can take the longer route to the teahouses at Dobato. From there, a short scramble leads to Muldai Viewpoint, which provides a panorama arguably as good as Poon Hill that, in comparison, you’re likely to share with very few other trekkers.


You’ll be able to see Dhaulagiri, Annapurna I, and Machhapuchhre, better known as Fishtail, laid out in front of you in a wide, sweeping vista. Then you can head down to Ghandruk and back to Pokhara or even join onto one of the other treks, such as Mardi Himal or Annapurna Base Camp, if you still have the energy.


2. Mardi Himal trek (Annapurna Conservation Area)

Photo: Devin Tolleson/Shutterstock


Highest point: Mardi Himal Base Camp: 14,800 feet

Time required: four-six days


The Mardi Himal trek is fast emerging as one of the new favorites in Nepal. However, it still sees far less foot traffic than it’s neighbor, Annapurna Base Camp. It’s a trek that climbs through forest and rhododendron fields along a ridge to the base of Mardi Himal, a relatively small peak on the edge of the Annapurna range. It’s the best pick for those short on time because for a relatively quick trek it packs a whole lot of punch in terms of mountain views.


Most people begin the trek from Kande, a short drive from Pokhara, and take overnight stops in Forest Camp, Low Camp, and High Camp along the way. From High Camp, if the trails are cleared of snow, most people trek to Mardi Himal Base Camp and back as a day trip. It’s by far the toughest day of the trek and requires you to ascend around 3,300 vertical feet to Base Camp before descending back the same way. However, the thinner air and leg-breaking climb are small prices to pay for the stunning up-close views of Mardi Himal and Machhapuchhre, as well as across the Annapurna Massif. You can also seemingly look down onto Annapurna Base Camp, which is hidden in the valley not far down below.


Some consider the trek to be “easy.” In fact, you should not underestimate the steep ascents and descents, particularly if you head all the way to Mardi Himal Base Camp at 14,800 feet. You’ll also find fewer luxuries on this trek, as the teahouses generally operate purely for the trekking seasons, and there are no permanent settlements along the way.


3. Tamang Heritage Trail (Langtang National Park)

Photo: Marcel Krol Fotografie/Shutterstock


Highest point: 10,100 feet

Time required: seven days


The Tamang Heritage Trail was designed for those who are after a more authentic cultural experience while hiking in the Himalayas. It started as a community-based social development project that offers something different than the standard teahouse treks and is aimed at providing alternative income for the local Tamang people. Rather than feeling like you are simply a customer in a commercial trekking lodge, you’ll be treated almost like a family member in the more traditional homestay-style teahouses, with your money directly benefiting the communities.


It’s situated in the Langtang region, one of the areas hardest hit by the 2015 earthquake. Your contribution can go a long way to helping those who are still recovering. The Tamang people are Tibetan descendants who began settling in Nepal around 3,000 years ago and constitute one of the largest ethnic minorities in the country. Tamang, which means “horse warriors,” have a unique Tibetan Buddhist culture and are extremely welcoming people who are always willing to share their traditions and stories around the yak-dung-fired heater at night.


The starting point for this circuit trek is in Syabrubesi town, which is a long drive north of Kathmandu and the main trailhead for most treks in the Langtang region. The trail takes you through old villages surrounded by terraced farmland, where you can see the day-to-day activities of the locals, as well as visit some of the small gompas, or Buddhist monasteries, along the way.


It’s a relatively gentle trek at a much lower altitude than some of the other trails in the region. However, you can still get a glimpse of some of the snow-capped peaks of the nearby Ganesh and Langtang Ranges from various viewpoints along the way. It’s a perfect first trek for those who are not yet acclimatized or physically prepared and is often followed by another, more challenging trek in the Langtang National Park.


4. Gosaikunda Helambu trek (Langtang National Park)

Photo: Manish23/Shutterstock


Highest point: Laurebina Pass: 15,100 feet

Time required: eight days


Gosaikunda Lake is one of the most important pilgrimage sites for both Hindus and Buddhists in Nepal. One of 108 glacial lakes in the area, this particular lake is believed to have been created by Lord Shiva when he tried to find drinking water to soothe his throat after consuming poison. Hindus believe that bathing in its water will help wash their sins and sorrows away.


The lake itself can be done as a short trek out and back from Dhunche, a village not far from Syabrubesi, the main trailhead in the Langtang National Park. However, the real beauty of this trek is that you can begin in Dhunche and continue all the way back to Kathmandu on foot, taking around eight days. It’s also possible to add this on to the end of the popular five-day Langtang Valley trek, which turns it into a truly impressive excursion and one very few people undertake.


It’s a relatively steep ascent through forest for the first few days from Dhunche to reach Gosaikunda, and it’s important to take it easy, or you may otherwise suffer from the rapid change in altitude. The holy lake seems to be sitting almost in a bowl created by the surrounding slopes, and the view of the snow-capped ranges in the distance is mesmerizing. From the lake the trek passes its highest point over Laurebina Pass at 15,100 feet before mostly being downhill over the subsequent days through forest, rhododendron trees, and Sherpa villages towards the Kathmandu Valley.


Although the Himalayas highest peaks are quite a distance away in the Annapurna and Sagarmatha regions, don’t underestimate the vistas in Langtang National Park. You will also definitely appreciate that Langtang is the least-visited park of the three popular teahouse trekking regions.


5. Gokyo trek (Sagarmatha/Everest National Park)

Photo: Daniel Prudek/Shutterstock


Highest point: Gokyo Ri: 17,575 feet

Time required: 12 days


In many people’s eyes, there is only one trek to do in Sagarmatha National Park, and that is of course Everest Base Camp (EBC). Considered a must-do, bucket-list experience, EBC is one of the most popular treks in Nepal and is soon expected to reach 50,000 trekkers every year. However, there is in fact another trek in the same national park that will take you just as high as EBC but with significantly fewer crowds to contend with.


Gokyo is only recently starting to make a name for itself and will likely become an equally popular trek in the future. For now ,it still flies smoothly under the radar. It’s technically a part of the challenging and lengthy Three Passes trek, but it has become a standalone hike in its own right through a spectacular valley north of Namche Bazaar.


Until Namche, the trail follows the same route as EBC, and you can gawk at just how many people head to the base of the roof of the world. From Namche, you will be relieved to leave the crowds behind and start your ascent up to Gokyo. The trek carries a high risk of Acute Mountain Sickness as you will be ascending 4,260 vertical feet in just 14.2 miles. The slower you go the better, and most people overnight in Dhole and Machermo on their way up in order to acclimatize appropriately.


On the final day approaching Gokyo, you will hike through an otherworldly landscape of blue glacial lakes among soaring snowy peaks. At 15,400 feet, it’s a rather chilly place. Within the cluster of teahouses, though, you’ll find a German bakery where you can warm yourself up with a hot drink and freshly baked cake.


The highlight of the trek is the half-day return hike up to Gokyo Ri, a peak and viewpoint above the Gokyo teahouse village. It’s a steep climb, but the reward is a view that is almost beyond imagination. Here, at arguably one of the best Himalayan vistas you can possibly get, you’ll be able to see Cho Oyu (the world’s sixth highest peak), Lhotse (the world’s fourth highest peak), Makalu (the world’s fifth highest), the beautiful Ama Dablam, and, of course, the mighty Everest. The best time to tackle Gokyo Ri is in the early morning. If you can handle the cold, a sunrise hike is even better.


From Gokyo you have many options. You can either take Cho La pass and join on to Everest Base Camp or take Renjo La pass and head back to Namche, or simply head back through the same valley you came up, taking the trail on the other side via Phortse to vary your return.


More like this: This motorcycle tour is the most epic way to see the Himalayas


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Published on September 05, 2019 15:30

Where to see street art in Atlanta

Atlanta’s street art scene is comprised of over 600 murals, sketches, and paintings stretched across the city. Because that’s way too much art for any traveler to see, especially if you’re short on time, we’ve selected some of the best outdoor art pieces you shouldn’t miss. So, the next time you visit this unique part of the American South, check out the iconic locations where street artists have added their colorful designs amidst the concrete, wood, and glass that makes up Atlanta.


Krog Street and Edgewood Avenue

One of the best-known street artists in Atlanta is Greg Mike. His numerous works can be found throughout the city, the most famous being Loudmouf, a blue square with multiple eyes and a large mouth. Like Loudmouf, most all of Greg Mike’s work is “loud” with bright colors and animals or figures (often with open mouths) that give each piece of art a fun energy and personality. Though he has done murals internationally as well, Greg Mike is most known for his work in Atlanta — and there is a lot to be seen there.


Photo: Ian Charbonnet


Photo: Ian Charbonnet


Photo: Ian Charbonnet


If you only want to make one quick stop to see some of Greg Mike’s Work, head towards the corner of Krog Street and Edgewood Avenue. From there, you’ll be able to see some of Mike’s work on the first block of Krog Street just south of Edgewood. There are a lot of options for which direction to go. If you head north you can stop by the Krog Street Market for lunch and check out the Beltline (more on that below). If you go west along Edgewood, there is more street art, including notable work from Michael Reeder. If you’d rather sit and relax, just head one block east on Edgewood and grab a donut with a cup of coffee at Revolution.


Krog Street Tunnel

Photo: Ian Charbonnet


Photo: Ian Charbonnet


Head south from Greg Mike’s work on Krog Street and you’ll find the Krog Street Tunnel. Unlike the rest of the recommended spots, you won’t find large murals here. Instead, you’ll see a constantly changing canvas of graffiti from artists from all over the city and beyond. Krog Street Tunnel showcases a variety of styles and color palettes to create images both familiar and alien. With so many pieces (and since the art here changes so often) you could visit the tunnel every time you’re in Atlanta and see something totally new. Make sure to check out the Krog Street Tunnel during the day — going into the tunnel at night is not recommended because the lighting isn’t great. After exiting the south side of the tunnel, there are also a number of murals along Wylie Street SE.


The Beltline

Photo: Ian Charbonnet


Photo: Ian Charbonnet


The Beltline is a cool way for people to get around the city. It’s a trail used by locals to walk, jog, or bike through and around Atlanta. Not only does the Beltline allow visitors and locals access to restaurants and shops around the city, but it’s also a great spot for street artists to show off their stuff. If you were out visiting the Krog Street Market, the Beltline is right across Krog Street. There is street art throughout the Beltline, but the Eastside is where you want to be to see the best offerings. Each overpass over the Beltline provides a canvas for some great designs.


Other spots to check out
Edgewood Avenue

Photo: Ian Charbonnet


Between Hilliard Street and Howell Street, there are a number of murals along the sides of businesses on Edgewood Avenue.


Downtown

Photo: Ian Charbonnet


Photo: Ian Charbonnet


There are a number of works southwest of the Peachtree Fountains Plaza. For a general location, start near the corner of Broad Street and Mitchell Street (or Broad and MLK Jr. Drive). There is another concentration of a few pieces near the corner of Walker and Haynes. Also, while in town, visit Mutiny Artwyrx and check out its massive campus of buildings for a row of murals.


More like this: Where to discover the best street art in Berlin


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Published on September 05, 2019 14:30

5 ways to find nature in Fort Myers

Loggerhead sea turtles, piping plovers, West Indian manatees, and bottlenose dolphins have been calling The Beaches of Fort Myers & Sanibel home for millennia. The barrier islands’ geographic location — set apart from mainland Florida and jutting out ever so slightly into the Gulf of Mexico — gives the beaches and waters here protection from the urban world. The shores are long and flat with fine white sand, making it the perfect stopover for migratory birds.


On the backside (or bayside) of the barrier islands are sheltered waters, mangroves, and more tiny islands. There are state parks with rustic undeveloped beaches, protected wildlife preserves, and miles of hiking, biking, and kayaking trails. Here are five ways to connect with the quiet natural bounty of this special place.


1. Meditate on the beach — while supporting sea turtles
5 ways to get back to nature on The Beaches of Fort Myers & Sanibel

Photo: The Beaches of Fort Myers & Sanibel


Substitute your tinny sound-machine waves with the sound of real waves as you practice your asanas on the beach with Ambu Yoga. They host monthly New Moon Meditations on Captiva Island, and as a bonus to your feel-goods, your fee for the class supports the Sea Turtle Program run by the Sanibel-Captiva Conservation Foundation (SCCF).


Over 1,000 sea turtles return to this area every year to lay their eggs. Only one in 1,000 hatchlings will survive, and it takes that one 30 years to reach reproductive age. Not great odds, which is one of the reasons why disturbing a nest is against the law. But you can get in on the community’s conservation efforts by keeping your eye out for fresh sea-turtle tracks and supporting organizations like the SCCF.


Stay: Sundial Beach Resort & Spa is an upscale complex on Sanibel Island with suites and condominiums, a swimming pool, canopy sunbeds, and tennis courts. It’s on one mile of white-sand beach, so if you can’t make it to an off-site yoga studio, there’s plenty of room for you to get in touch with your inner yogi and guide yourself.


2. Explore one truly wild national wildlife refuge
5 ways to get back to nature on The Beaches of Fort Myers & Sanibel

Photo: The Beaches of Fort Myers & Sanibel


Running the length of the bayside of Sanibel Island is the J.N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge, an expansive swath of mangrove ecosystems, tidal flats, open water, marshes, hiking trails, biking trails, and ample opportunities to canoe and kayak. There are 51 different reptiles and amphibians, 32 species of mammals, over 270 species of birds, and many others making their home here. If you want to get an idea of the full complexity of the Southwest Florida ecological community, “Ding” Darling is the place to do it.


Stay: West Wind Inn is one right turn from “Ding” Darling, close to the entrance where you can rent kayaks and canoes. The chill resort has studios with kitchenettes, suites, a swimming pool, and a full-service restaurant, and is also adjacent to 500 feet of private beach.


3. Paddle out as the full moon rises over Lovers Key State Park
5 ways to get back to nature on The Beaches of Fort Myers & Sanibel

Photo: The Beaches of Fort Myers & Sanibel


Lovers Key State Park, just south of Fort Myers Beach, is a collection of barrier islands that includes two miles of undeveloped white-sand beaches, two-and-a-half miles of kayak-able estuary, five miles of hiking and biking trails, and a butterfly garden. Lovers Key Adventures offers several really cool kayaking tours, like the Calusa Indian Mound Key Tour and the Full Moon Tour, where you can paddle out at sunset and experience the changing environment as the moon rises.


Nearby: Shangri-La Springs is a historic hotel and spa with a focus on health and wellness, located in the old town of Bonita Springs. Though the property doesn’t currently offer lodging, its farm-to-table restaurant, Harvest & Wisdom, serves organic fared supplied by the onsite garden; there’s also a natural spring and — of course — a spa. Go for a specialty facial, attend a sound meditation, or take a gardening class.


4. Have wildlife encounters (in an ethical way)
5 ways to get back to nature on The Beaches of Fort Myers & Sanibel

Photo: Rebecca Hubbell/ Sugar & Soul


To make sure you’re placing the well-being of the area’s abundant wildlife front and center, you can learn about Southwest Florida’s unique ecosystem on a guided tour with marine scientists, educators, and conservationists. Local organizations run camps and classes for both children and adults that will immerse you in the habitats of some of the area’s most iconic plant and animal species. Meanwhile, outfitters offer custom eco-tours that are both fun and environmentally aware. Find a tour that fits your interests, and read more about how to make your visit a sustainable one.


Stay: Sanibel Moorings is a resort property made up of condominiums with full kitchens, tennis courts, and a swimming pool, perfect for both short and long-term stays. They also have a botanic garden with 100+ flower species — and gopher tortoises.


5. Find solitude on an uninhabited island
5 ways to get back to nature on The Beaches of Fort Myers & Sanibel

Photo: The Beaches of Fort Myers & Sanibel


Cayo Costa State Park, a barrier island located north of Captiva Island and west of Pine Island, is undeveloped and only accessible by boat. It has more than eight-and-a-half miles of natural-state beaches and three different ecosystems to explore. Think sandbars, white-sand beaches, sun-bleached seashells, palm trees, and egrets lazing about.


When arriving by boat, keep your eye out for dolphins feeding in the calm waters of Pelican Bay. The sandbars on the north side of the island are great places to wade and look for the area’s famous seashells.


Stay: The Inns of Sanibel is a network of four resorts on Sanibel Island: Song of the Sea, Seaside Inn, Sanibel Inn, and Sunset Beach. Each has its own character, from the intimate pink-and-red brick “inn-feel” of Song of the Sea to the yellow cabana, poolside vibe of Sunset Beach. They’re centrally located, and you can easily book a tour or boat ride to Cayo Costa regardless of which inn you end up calling home.

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Published on September 05, 2019 14:15

How to order dim sum

Newcomers to dim sum — the Chinese meal of shareable small bites, mostly buns and dumplings — might find the concept a tad intimidating: the bustling dining room full of chatting clusters of friends and family, leaning over pots of steaming tea, chopsticks in hand, as metal carts laden with metal bowls and bamboo steamers circulate between tables. Everyone probably looks like a professional, as though navigating the expansive dim sum menu is second nature. All it takes to become a master of dim sum is practice. Trust me, it’s worth putting in the time.


Like most Chinese food popular in the US, dim sum is Cantonese, originating in the province of Guangdong (sweet and sour pork, congee, and chow mein are all Cantonese in origin). Dim sum probably first appeared at the height of the Silk Road, a trade route connecting China to India, the Middle East, and North Africa.


Tea shops popped up along the route to accommodate weary travelers. Eventually, farmers from the surrounding areas would drop into the teahouses, too, hoping for companionship and stimulating conversation. Popular medical wisdom at the time dictated that tea helps stimulate digestion and cleanse the palette, so the tea houses began serving small snacks to enjoy while drinking tea — a tradition known as yum cha.


Immigrants brought dim sum to America where it flourished, particularly in the burgeoning Chinatown neighborhoods of places like New York City. Today, dim sum is one of the most popular forms of Chinese food in America, and it’s now commonly served for dinner, though in China its generally served for breakfast and brunch.


Dim sum started out as a way to gossip, gather news, and catch up with old friends and family members, and not much has changed about the atmosphere of a dim sum parlor: Gathering for dim sum is still a high-spirited social occasion, a time to bond with friends and family over good food.


Translated literally, dim sum means “touch the heart,” a poetic reference to the fact that dim sum is considered a light meal of snacks, not a full course dinner (though you’ll likely fill up quickly if you order enough from the menu). Dim sum is, by nature, a communal meal, meant to be shared. Conversation and laughter over dim sum — the apex of comfort food — alongside the ones you love is likely to touch your heart, too.


How to order dim sum

Photo: T photography/Shutterstock


A crowded dim sum parlor is a cacophony of sounds, scents, and tastes. Upon entering the dining room, you’ll likely hear snippets of animated conversation, interspersed with the clatter of wheels rolling along the floor.


Once you make your way to a table, there are one of two ways to be served: Either you’ll be handed a paper menu on which you will check off boxes indicating what you’d like to order, or you’ll choose dim sum directly from the circulating carts. In the case of the latter, you’ll be given a dining card which will be stamped every time you take a new dish from the cart. It’s also perfectly acceptable to chase down the cart carrying a tasty looking dish before it gets to your table — just bring your stamp card with you.


You might also want to keep an eye on the doors to the kitchen. The carts rolling through the kitchen doors hold the freshest offerings.


What to drink at a dim sum restaurant

Photo: Joey Chung/Shutterstock


Before tackling the expansive array of dim sum on the menu, order a pot or two of tea. Dim sum is intended to be enjoyed alongside tea; it should not be treated as an afterthought. In fact, dim sum is so closely linked to tea that the term is sometimes used interchangeably with yum cha. However, yum cha is technically the phrase for a meal eaten in the morning and early afternoon, consisting of tea and dim sum.


The most common variety of tea at a dim sum restaurant is jasmine. If in doubt, stick to the basics. But if you want to branch out, there are other options available: A potent black tea — another traditional staple at the dim sum table — cuts through the oily dim sum dishes while a refreshing chrysanthemum tea has a slightly sweeter flavor. You might also find the much more familiar green tea (commonplace at most Americanized Chinese restaurants) on the menu.


Once the teapot is empty, prop the lid open so the top is uncovered to indicate you’re ready for a refill. Traditional etiquette dictates that your companions always refill your cup of tea during the meal, but if you slip up, don’t feel as though you’ll be dragged out by your collar for violating the rules of the restaurant. These traditions take some getting used to.


What to eat at a dim sum restaurant

Photo: bonchan/Shutterstock


Once you’ve settled in, it’s time to start thinking about food. At Chinese restaurants that aren’t dim sum focused, rice is a central part of the meal. Not so at a dim sum parlor. While you can certainly order a side of rice, you’re not missing a crucial element of the ritual if you decide to skip it. Keep in mind that if you like spicy Chinese food, like hot pot, you won’t find it here. Unlike Sichuan food, in which peppers are central ingredients, Cantonese food is much milder and focused on fresh ingredients.


There are some basic dim sum items you might have encountered before: pot stickers, spring rolls, steamed pork buns, soup dumplings, and pork or shrimp shu mai (open-top dumplings). These are all good starting points for dim sum amateurs.


But that’s just the beginning when it comes to dumplings and buns. You’ll likely also spot har gow, steamed shrimp dumplings instantly recognizable by the translucent dough; taro dumplings; and sesame balls. Stuffed eggplant and spare ribs will add variety to a table laden with doughy treats.


Now let’s talk noodles. Noodle rolls are a staple of the dim sum menu — wide, slippery sheets of rice noodles that cradle shrimp, beef, or pork served in a pond of sweet soy sauce. Chinese food aficionados and adventurous eaters will be drawn to the steamed chicken feet, turnip cakes, and lo mai gai (steam rice mixed with mushroom, chicken, and scallions, wrapped in a lotus leaf).


Your taste buds are going to perk up at every new smell as the carts come wheeling by your table, but it’s essential that you remember to pace yourself. Dim sum doesn’t come in courses, so you could potentially keep ordering new bamboo baskets of dumplings all afternoon — much of which will go to waste if you let excitement take over and order too much food before realizing you’re too full to finish.


Dim sum desserts to order

Photo: TY Lim/Shutterstock


Dessert isn’t always a fixture at Chinese restaurants, but it’s a necessary element of the dim sum experience. Still, cloying sweetness isn’t on the menu. You’ll find flaky pastries filled with egg custard; silky tofu served with ginger or sugar syrup; bao filled with egg custard; and a simple, spongy steamed cake made from eggs, sugar, and flour.


This light dessert is the perfect cap to a meal designed to leave you glowing from the satisfaction of a deceptively simple meal. Dim sum is an eruption of rich, earthy flavors and diverse textures ranging from crunchy to moist to pillowy soft. The mild creaminess of these dessert offerings underlines the most exciting aspect of dim sum: It’s surprising complexity.


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The post How to eat dim sum without embarrassing yourself appeared first on Matador Network.


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Published on September 05, 2019 14:00

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