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Delta sale US flights for $97

Delta isn’t exactly known as a low-cost carrier, but this fall the airline is running a sale with round-trip domestic flights that are actually affordable. Fares for the US adventures sale start at $97, with the official website encouraging flyers to “explore America’s natural treasures or dig into another city’s food scene with fall and winter travel deals.” But you’d better book fast, because the sale ends on Wednesday, September 25.

Here are some of the best rates available:

Seattle to San Jose for $97
Atlanta to Nashville for $97
Los Angeles to San Diego for $99
Las Vegas to Long Beach for $99
Las Vegas to San Jose for $107
Raleigh/Durham to Tampa for $107
Austin to Cincinnati for $117
Detroit to Jacksonville for $127

It’s important to note that the travel period varies by destination, so don’t forget to read the fine print. Also make sure you read the baggage rules, because baggage charges will quickly add up. It’s $30 for your first checked bag, and $40 for your second.

Since the sale only lasts for one day, you can’t afford to be indecisive. Travel periods extend from October 2019 through February 2020, so it’s the perfect opportunity to get a head start on planning your winter getaway.


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Thomas Cook collapses

Thomas Cook, the world’s oldest travel company, collapsed due to financial troubles on Sunday night putting 21,000 jobs at risk and affecting over 600,000 travelers. The British tour operator, with a fleet of 94 aircraft, had been in business for 178 years, providing passengers with flights and vacation bookings. Since yesterday, however, Thomas Cook is known for another kind of record: Its collapse is the reason behind one of the biggest peacetime repatriation efforts the world has ever seen.

A massive undertaking is currently underway to bring hundreds of thousands of stranded travelers home, with around 150,000 people already being flown back to the UK on other airlines.

Deidre Hutton, the chairperson of the UK’s Civil Aviation Authority, reassured people that “everyone will get their holiday and they will be brought back at the time they would have come back anyway,” the BBC reported.

There are an additional 74 flights scheduled to return 16,500 people back to the UK today, with over 135,000 slated to be flown back over the next two weeks.

Of the company’s collapse, Peter Fankhauser, CEO of Thomas Cook, said in a statement, “This marks a deeply sad day for the company which pioneered package holidays and made travel possible for millions of people around the world. Despite huge efforts over a number of months, and further intense negotiations in recent days, we have not been able to secure a deal to save our business. I know that this outcome will be devastating to many people and cause a lot of anxiety, stress, and disruption.”

Uncertainty still surrounds the travel plans of many booked on Thomas Cook flights, but the UK Civil Aviation Authority is undertaking a massive effort to return stranded passengers home. According to The Guardian, around 150,000 UK tourists are currently stranded.

Travelers who had their vacations canceled following the sudden collapse and who are now seeking replacement flights are reportedly seeing flight prices skyrocket due to a large demand. The BBC reported that some flight prices have tripled.

This article was updated on September 24, 2019.

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Best hike along Japan’s Nakasendo

Long before bullet trains connected Tokyo and Kyoto, travelers used Nakasendo Road to travel between the two cities, stopping at postal towns along the way to sleep, eat, and rest the horses. Today, it is possible to hike portions of the Nakasendo Trail in the Kiso Valley, which lies between the two cities, and to visit beautifully preserved towns from the Edo period (1603-1868) when Japan was ruled by a shogunate centered in Edo, the old name of Tokyo.

The most straightforward section of the entire 330-mile Nakasendo Trail to hike is the stretch that connects the towns of Magome and Tsumago. Here the trail is well-maintained, transportation connections are convenient, and you can even forward your luggage. This hike not only offers a glimpse into Japan’s past, but also takes you through bamboo forests, past thundering waterfalls, and alongside rushing rivers.

For travelers who enjoy the outdoors, history, and culture, the Nakasendo Trail is must. Visiting the Kiso Valley is also a great way to break up the journey from Tokyo and Kyoto and get a respite from the bustling cities of Japan. Here’s how to do it.

The hike from Magome to Tsumago

Photo: Blanscape/Shutterstock

The five-mile hike from Magome to Tsumago can be done in two to three hours, but plan to take longer since there are many points of interest along the way. The trail is well-signposted — it’s almost impossible to get lost — and has 13 bathrooms along the way. You can hike in either direction, but going north to south from Magome to Tsumago is easier since Tsumago is at a lower elevation.

The trail starts at an overlook outside Magome with views of the Japanese Alps and valley below. Enjoy the views while stretching your legs — the next 1.5 miles are mostly uphill, and your legs will burn at times. As you leave the city and enter the forest, you’ll see the first of many bells stationed along the trail. Signs on the bells instruct hikers to “ring hard against bears.” Don’t worry, locals say bear sightings are rare, but just in case you may want to give them a hard whack.

After 1.3 miles, the trail arrives at the Kumano-jinja Shrine. Hike up the stone stairway to see the beautifully time-worn Shinto shrine. Shortly after the shrine, you’ll reach Magome Pass, the highest point on the trail, and it’s mostly downhill the rest of the way. After the pass is a small cemetery with offerings placed around moss-covered tombstones.

Halfway through the hike, you’ll arrive at the Tateba Tea House, where local staff in traditional clothes provide free hot tea and stoke a fire in an irori fireplace. Take time to rest, enjoy the fire, peruse the artifacts on display, and regroup for the rest of the hike.

After the Tateba Tea House, the trail follows a stream through dense forest and eventually arrives at the twin Otaki and Metaki (male and female) waterfalls. In the book, Miyamoto Musashi, Miyamoto, a famous samurai warrior, and a young lady, who is betrothed to his friend, are traveling along the Nakasendo Trail. Consumed by lust, they stood under different waterfalls to calm down. Standing in the midst of the waterfalls is a great way to cool off even if you aren’t caught in the throes of passion. From the falls, the trail leaves the woods and passes rice paddies and country homes. Mountains and forested hills come into view as the trail parallels the rushing Araragi River on the way to Tsumago.

What to do in Magome and Tsumago

Photo: ilosz Maslanka/Shutterstock

The steep main street of Magome starts at the bus station and parallels a water channel that operates a series of photogenic watermills. Noodle shops, cafes, confectionary shops, and souvenir stores, along with temples and cemeteries, line the main street. While in Magome, be sure to try gohei mochi, a grilled cake of sticky rice covered in a sweet walnut sauce. Several shops along the main street sell this filling snack.

The pedestrian-only main street of Tsumago feels more authentic than Magome since most of the buildings are older. Tsumago was the first town to undergo renovations in the 1970s and served as a model for the restoration of other villages in the valley. Tsumago is surrounded by mountains that serve as a backdrop to the wooden inns and shops. Also, there are several temples in town, including the Kotoku Temple that dates back to the 1500s. On the north end of the town, a short climb leads to the Tsumago Castle ruins. The view from the ruins of the mountains and village below makes the short walk worth the effort.

Day trip to Narai

Photo: /Shutterstock

Staying an additional night in Tsumago allows time for a day trip to Narai, another stunning postal town — or a town that served as a way station where a traveler could take a rest. The scenic train trip from Tsumago to Narai follows the Kiso River and has views of waterfalls, mountains, and picturesque villages. The Narai streetscape is similar to Tsumago and Magome with classic Edo buildings. The enthusiastic workers at the tourist information center in the rail station provide maps and offer advice on what to see while in town.

A walk down Kagi-no-te Road, Narai’s central street, passes several shrines, cafes, noodle shops, ryokans (traditional inns), and Buddhist temples. Highlights include the beautiful Chousen-ji Temple, the Nakamura Residence, and the museum at the Kamidonya Shiryokan, which has excellent views from the second floor. Perhaps the best activity in Narai walking the streets and then stopping for a beverage while soaking up the small-town vibes before having lunch at one of the noodle shops.

Getting there and away

Photo: dowraik/Shutterstock

Travel to the area takes about three hours from Tokyo and 2.5 hours from Kyoto. From Tokyo or Kyoto, take the Shinkansen bullet train to Nagoya. From Nagoya, take the Chuo Line to Nakatsugawa if headed to Magome or to Narai if going to Tsumago. From the train stations in Nakatsugawa and Narai, buses take travelers the short distance to Magome and Tsumago. The Japan Rail Pass covers the entire train journey plus the buses.

Among the most convenient factors of this hike is that you can have your luggage delivered from one town to the next. Drop off your luggage at the tourist information office in Magome or Tsumago before 11:30 AM for delivery to your hotel in the next town. The service runs from April through November with a fee of 500 Japanese yen (under $5) per bag.

Where to stay

Photo: Petr Brezina/Shutterstock

The best way to make a reservation is by using Japan Guest Houses. The guest houses in the Kiso Valley mostly consist of the traditional Japanese inns, and many include breakfast and a multi-course dinner in the price. After a hike, eating a hearty Japanese dinner at the guest house is a great way to finish the day.

Nedoko in Magome is conveniently located near the tourist information office and has some of the most affordable rooms in town. The ryokan has a comfortable communal area, great for lounging after a day of hiking.

In Tsumago, Hanaya, a 300-year-old ryokan operated by the same family for seven generations, is on the edge of town at the start of the trail. It is in a peaceful location near the river with a hot tub to soothe trail-sore muscles. If you want to stay in the center of Tsumago, the Fujioto ryokan is just off the main street and has a peaceful garden and Japanese-style baths.

Where to eat

Photo: Vincent JIANG/Shutterstock

In Magome, there are several restaurants, but only a couple remain open for dinner. Magome-Ya, a large restaurant on the southeast side of town, caters to tour groups during the day but is blissfully quiet in the evenings. Sit by the large windows with views of the valley below. Magome also has a small supermarket and a newly opened bar near the bus stop.

In Tsumago, several noodle shops line the main street. Pick one that is busy with locals and head inside. If you want to try sake, go to the Sabo Art Gallery Ko and sample a flight with the friendly, English-speaking owners.


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Bolsonaro says Amazon is Brazil's

The recent wildfires in the Amazon rainforest have sparked global calls for Brazil’s president, Jair Bolsonaro, to do more to protect the biggest forest in the world. Bolsonaro, however, wants other countries to stay out of what he believes to be Brazilian affairs, rejecting the idea that the Amazon is the “lungs of the world” and belongs to everyone.

“It is a fallacy,” he said at the United Nations in New York, “to say that the Amazon is the heritage of humankind, and a misconception confirmed by scientists to say that our Amazon forests are the lungs of the world. Using and resorting to these fallacies, certain countries, instead of helping…behaved in a disrespectful manner and with a colonialist spirit. They even called into question that which we hold as a most sacred value, our sovereignty.”

Bolsonaro is referring to the widespread criticism he endured in the wake of the fires, and his perceived inability to act as a steward for one of the world’s most important ecosystems. The forest fires are largely believed to be caused by farmers and loggers clearing land for crops and grazing — a practice that Bolsonaro has supported.

Since the fires began earlier this year, however, Bolsonaro has stood firm in his unwillingness to accept responsibility, and even refused foreign aid to help fight the devastating blazes.


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Paris flying water taxis

Creative ways to beat city traffic are always appreciated, and Paris is taking it to the next level with new flying water taxis. SeaBubbles are bubble-shaped, 100 percent electric hydrofoil boats that seemingly glide above water. Although currently only in the testing stage, if successful they may appear as a commercial service in Paris as early as spring 2020.

SeaBubbles would create zero waves, noise, and pollution, the product’s website claims. The goal of such a vehicle would not only help alleviate the traffic in Paris and other cities around the world, but also reduce exhaust emissions.

The boats can travel up to 7.5 miles per hour, fit four passengers at a time, and even be conveniently booked via smartphone app. The hydrofoils also allow the vehicles to hover about 20 inches above the water to prevent sea sickness.

The SeaBubbles could easily recharge their batteries by being plugged into a dock, itself supplied by wind, solar, and hydro energy, while passengers load and unload.

SeaBubbles is still awaiting final approval to obtain an operating license to zoom across the Seine.


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E. coli found in airplane water

There are a lot of myths surrounding what you should or shouldn’t eat and drink on airplanes, but now there’s an official study to back some of it up. The 2019 Airline Water Study, released by Diet Detective and Hunter College’s NYC Food Policy Center, shows that the quality of airplane drinking water isn’t always stellar.

The study ranks 11 major and 12 regional airlines by the quality of the drinking water they provide passengers, and found that many airlines are in violation of the Aircraft Drinking Water Rule (ADWR), which sets the standard for safe drinking water.

According to the study, Alaska and Allegiant airlines provide the safest water, with Hawaiian Airlines coming in second. You probably want to avoid the water on JetBlue and Spirit, however, which were found to have the worst water quality.

The ADWR requires airlines to test water samples for coliform bacteria and E. coli, disinfect and flush water tanks four times per year, and conduct regular water tests. Judging by the study’s results, it seems as though many airlines are shirking their responsibilities, and E. coli and other contaminants are ending up in the water supply.

The study’s authors advise passengers to only drink water from a sealed bottle, don’t drink any coffee or tea, and instead of washing your hands in the bathroom, bring your own hand sanitizer.

Read the full study to see which airlines’ water you should probably pass on.


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Alder Creek sequoia grove for sale

A mostly untouched forest is for sale in California, and it’s filled with red and white fir trees, ponderosa pines, and hundreds of giant sequoias.

Alder Creek, a 530-acre plot of land along the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada, has been privately owned but now it’s up for sale. And, in a wonderful turn of events, it’s the Save the Redwoods League conservation group that is attempting to raise the $15.6 million needed to purchase the land, and ultimately turn it over to the US Forest Service.

The group is asking the public for donations, hoping to raise the money by December 31, 2019. Reportedly, donations amounting to $7 million have already been made, but there’s still a little ways to go to reach the appropriate amount.

The group explained, “Our plan is to eventually transfer [Alder Creek] to the Giant Sequoia National Monument so that this place will belong to all of us — for recreation, education, and inspiration.”

Alder Creek has been owned by the Rouch family since the end of World War II, and though they purchased the area for logging and cut down many of the pines and firs, the sequoias remained largely untouched.

They decided to sell the property to secure its future once the family is no longer able to take care of it. A conservation-minded buyer like Save the Redwoods League is, no doubt, among the best options to protect the majestic trees of Alder Creek.


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The post The largest privately owned sequoia grove in the world is for sale appeared first on Matador Network.

Airbnb Antarctica contest

Always striving to offer travelers unique opportunities like living in an Italian village for three months, sleeping in the Louvre, or spending one night in the Downton Abbey castle, Airbnb is outdoing itself this time. The short-term rental company has partnered with Ocean Conservancy to offer five aspiring conservationists the chance to travel to Antarctica to join a scientific research mission this coming December.

The program has been dubbed the Antarctic Sabbatical. In December, the five fortunate folks chosen will accompany Antarctic scientist Kirstie Jones-Williams as “citizen scientists” working to expand the conservancy’s mission of protecting the ocean and raising awareness of the threats posed to the ecosystem. If selected, you’ll spend a month in the Antarctic region, including an immersion training in Punta Arenas, Chile, where you will prep for the stay with courses on glaciology and field sampling and try your hand at lab work and equipment practice. You’ll then fly to Antarctica, landing on a naturally formed blue-ice runway in the continent’s interior, where the studies are to be conducted.

Once you’re “on the ice,” as veterans of the Antarctic refer to being in the region, the itinerary will look like this:

Collect snow samples from the interior of Antarctica and study them for microplastics to determine how far waste and pollution have traveled across the world.
Visit the South Pole and walk around the globe in just a few steps.
Visit some of the continent’s well-known sites including the Drake Icefall, Charles Peak Windscoop, and Elephant’s Head to learn about Antarctic geography.

After the time on the ice, you will return to Chile to continue work on what you’ve learned with Ocean Conservancy. The goal is to train you to become an ambassador for protecting the oceans and deliver insight on how the Airbnb community and others can help minimize their collective plastic footprint when traveling throughout the world’s six other continents.

Sign up for the contest on Airbnb’s website.


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Best theme cruises

It’s not every day you get to watch someone have the greatest moment of their life. At least not close up. But there was no doubt I was witnessing Kaitlyn’s.

The tall, red-haired Aussie had been dancing with reckless abandon to Jon Bon Jovi’s pool deck set aboard the Norwegian Pearl. And when it came time for a fan to join him on stage to sing one of his biggest hits, she was the obvious choice.

Kaitlyn reacted like she’d been proposed to and chosen as the next contestant on The Price is Right all at the same time. She hurried through the crowd, leapt onstage, and stepped up to the microphone in a state of teary, euphoric disbelief.

After a brief introduction, Kaitlin and Bon Jovi belted out a pretty solid duet of “It’s My Life,” any traces of nerves completely gone from her performance. She was smiling and energetic and clearly living a moment she’d replay for the rest of her life. Seeing that kind of unbridled joy almost made me well up, and I might have had I not been watching the whole thing from a jacuzzi 20 yards away.

These are the sort of moments one finds on a theme cruise, watching a super fan get to live their ultimate dream while sipping on a cold drink in a hot tub. Though I may not have been a Bon Jovi aficionado myself, the energy, feeling of community, and unique experiences aboard the Runaway to Paradise with Jon Bon Jovi cruise made it feel like a dream vacation anyway. And as the number and variety of theme cruises increase every year, going on one is now just a matter of finding an interest that suits you.

A brand new way of making like-minded friends

Photo: Will Byington

Though cruising has been around for decades, cruises centered around a specific theme or interest only date back about 18 years. The first of any size was a collection of about 400 Sister Hazel fans who took over part of a ship in 2001. That then morphed into Rock the Boat — the first large-scale music festival at sea — which inspired other genre-specific music cruises, artist cruises, and other entertainment acts.

Today you can find a theme cruise for almost anything you’re into, from swingers cruises to crossword puzzle cruises to Golden Girls cruises. And all those cruises are filled with people who are into the exact same stuff you are.

“When you get here you immediately realize you share a passion with a few thousand other people,” says Antony Diaz, the CEO of Sixthman, the largest producer of theme cruises who chartered 18 of them in 2019. He began his career in a band with two guys who went on to form Sister Hazel. “So when you’re at the bar or you’re having dinner, the conversations and the bonds form so quickly, because you both love the reason why you’re here. You might come for the artist, but you come back for the friendships.”

This is the main reason, Diaz says, the company’s theme cruises regularly see 60 percent retention rates.

“I guess it’s like a Comic-Con kinda thing,” Goo Goo Dolls lead singer Johnny Rzeznik told me from his suite aboard the Pearl. He was onboard doing a couple of solo sets as part of the 10-band lineup during Runaway. “You’re stuck on a boat with all these people and y’all sort of have one or two things in common, and you just get to like sort of hang with your people. I think it’s a good way for people to make connections.”

Theme cruises have more to do, and you’ll get closer than you ever have to big names.

Photo: Will Byington

Not that cruise ships in 2019 are limited to the classic trifecta of eating, drinking, and trivia, but sometimes the shows or activities may not be things you’re necessarily into. On theme cruises, literally everything tailors to your interest.

On the Bon Jovi cruise, for example, 10 other bands were onboard, meaning you could find live music at almost any time of day. There was an ‘80s theme night. One day featured a live band karaoke where guests could sing Bon Jovi songs along with his touring band, The Kings of Suburbia.

Non-music-driven cruises have educational panels and workshops. Sixthman’s Walking Dead cruise has both Q&As and meet and greets with cast members. The New York Times Atlantic Crossing — for crossword puzzle enthusiasts — even had opportunities for you to work on puzzles with NYT puzzle editors.

But the main draw is still the chance to get close to your favorite celebrities.

Later in his pool deck set, Jon Bon Jovi ventured into the pit in front of the stage, where throngs of enamored fans gave him high fives as he wailed out “Born to Be My Baby.” He was doing it all on a small, nondescript cruise ship pool deck as the sun set behind him over Palma de Mallorca. It was exactly the kind of intimate, unusual setting where fans dream of seeing an icon like Bon Jovi.

“It’s a chance for fans to see bands in a totally unwieldy and tropical setting,” said country rock songstress Grace Potter, who was also on the Runaway bill. “I mean unwieldy because there have been days where rain has sloshed out the show, and so then you go inside and suddenly you’re watching one of your favorite musicians with nothing but an acoustic guitar.”

Photo: Will Byington

Such was the case on night two of the Runaway cruise, when Bon Jovi’s “Storytellers” set — where he was to perform some acoustic songs in between taking questions from the audience — was moved from the pool deck to the Pearl’s Starlight Theatre. During the performance, the superstar seemed relaxed and approachable, putting some different melodies and arrangements to hits most fans probably hadn’t heard before.

Though you’re not exactly hobnobbing with celebrities the whole time, you’ll still get to know performers better than you would otherwise. One afternoon I found myself on a lounge chair chatting with Tommy Meares, a trombone player in Kings of Suburbia. He told me how he got to know Bon Jovi by sneaking him into Asbury Park clubs in the early ‘80s.

“I sell home theater systems now,” he told me. “I still have a day job.”

Artists aren’t bothered much on the cruise either. Rzeznik said he’d been able to go to the gym every day and that most fans didn’t want much more than a hello. Potter said passengers recognized the live band karaoke performers more often than they recognized her.

“People ask me, what’s the KISS Kruise like? Do they all run to bother Gene Simmons?” Diaz says of Sixthman’s most-famous themed cruise. “They don’t even ask him for an autograph. But they will go up to him and say, ‘Gene, in 1982 when you played Wembley and you used a six-string bass instead of a five-string bass, why did you do that on that song?’ And Gene actually wants to have that conversation.”

Theme cruises are now a “legitimate” gig for rock stars.

Theme cruises look to be growing not just because guests like them but because artists do too.

“At first, it was sort of like, ‘What, you’re playing on a cruise ship? What are you, like, retiring?” said Rzeznik, who first played a cruise ship with Matchbox 20 in 2013. “But it’s become like a really cool, legitimate way that people like to spend their vacation, you know?”

Part of the motivation is also financial, too. When I asked Rzeznik why he wanted to do another cruise, his immediate response was, “I got paid. I got paid really well.”

Sixthman’s Diaz concurs.

“I think artists are realizing they’re not making the same as they used to make on physical music,” Diaz says. “They have to tour a lot now to drive their revenue streams and to make connections with fans. So I think they’re going to want to continue to do touring in a new way.”

Photo: Will Byington

The concept isn’t just drawing older fans of classic bands like Bon Jovi and KISS. Diaz says among his most profitable cruises have been with Pitbull and Kesha, since that demographic is far more likely to cram five people into a cruise cabin.

Kaitlyn, for what it’s worth, fell into that younger demographic. Though I never found out her age, she looked like she’d been born well after Young Gun II hit theaters. Regardless, she exhibited the same kind of excitement you might see from an eight-year-old the first time she met Mickey Mouse when she got offstage.

“Highlight of your year, wasn’t it?” I said coyly from the hot tub.

“Year?” she said. “That’s going to be the highlight of my LIFE!”


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Leaf peeping on Victoria Island

When it comes to autumn outdoor destinations, New England usually sits at the top of everyone’s list. While the changing foliage of the Pacific Northwest might not match the leaf-peeping color spectrum of North America’s East Coast, Victoria, British Columbia, warrants a gander. Here, countless cycling routes and trails shrouded in canopies of softly falling leaves couple with the world-class restaurants, wineries, and breweries to make this summer-famous region of BC a must-visit in the fall. Autumn around Victoria is rich for all five of your senses — just don’t forget your rain jacket. Leaf peeping season here is just getting started and will run through mid-November. Here’s how to do it right, which of course includes a colorful cocktail and plate of food after a long day in the woods.

Getting settled in Victoria

Photo: Debbie Ann Powell/Shutterstock

Whether you’re flying in or taking the ferry over from Vancouver, once you arrive into greater Victoria your apple orchard fix can instantly be satiated at Sea Cider. Situated about five minutes from the airport, this cider house farm is home to more than 1,300 trees and about 60 varieties of apples producing at least 15 brews on tap. The seasonal Witch’s Broom is not to be missed — like a spicy apple pie in a chilled glass, paired with housemade tapenade or a steaming savory pie, all enjoyed while taking in water views of the Haro Strait beyond the orchard. There’s no better way to arrive anywhere, whether you’re here for the views or the libations.

As far as where to stay, basing yourself in the center of Victoria provides easy access to the foodie scene, as well as the trails and roads leading to the best leaf peeping. The spacious suites at the Parkside Hotel & Spa feature large patios outside of the suites with views of the wharf and festively lit parliament building. Plus, there are state-of-the-art, full-sized kitchens. The Parkside lies within easy walking distance of every downtown hot spot and offers a daily s’mores happy hour on its Rooftop Garden, indoor pool and hot tub, free movie showings in the in-house theater, and a beautiful indoor pond housing enormous coy fish.

Cycling is the most efficient way to take in the colors.

Photo: Destination Greater Victoria

Like much of British Columbia, Uber and Lyft have not yet arrived in Victoria, but the best way to reach Sea Cider and other outskirt destinations is by bicycle on the region’s extensive rail trail system. Cyclists reign supreme in this part of the world, and these wide paths — including Lochside Trail stretching from downtown to the Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal and the Galloping Goose spanning from downtown to the waterfall paradise of Sooke Potholes — are protected from vehicular traffic and lined with blackberry bushes, towering trees, and granite and basalt rock slabs.

Situated in Victoria’s industrial chic Market Square, North 48 Bicycles rents comfortable touring bikes, as well as sleek skinny tire machines. The shop offers tours to colorful, little-known destinations you’d probably never find on your own, which can lead to unique views of the island’s changing colors. However, the rail trails are easy to navigate — clearly marked from start to finish.

Photo: Doug Clement Photography/Destination Greater Victoria

Be sure to check out the gardens at The Horticultural Centre of the Pacific, about a 40-minute pedal from downtown. Bursting with a riot of color all year, they take on a flame-like brilliance in autumn and are also home to the delicious Charlotte and the Quail, which, along with downtown sister restaurant Nourish, offers homegrown breakfast and lunch fare using herbs, veggies, and fruit grown on site. Another easy autumn pedal is to Hatley Castle and the Royal Roads University campus (filming location of the X-Men movies). Both can be seen across Esquimalt Lagoon, a bird sanctuary and mystical beach strewn with driftwood piled like massive matchsticks and bizarre but beautiful pop-up sculptures by local artist Paul Lewis.

But the hiking is pretty nice too.

Photo: P Sahota/Shutterstock

Speaking of wildlife, Hike Victoria guide Mark Vukobrat has spotted killer and humpback whales splashing in Finlayson Arm, the sublime fjord winding below the lofty ridgeline of Gowlland Tod Provincial Park. This is a rugged park featuring a number of trails that are spectacular with color in the fall, though not the type you’d expect. While the forests of Vancouver Island do house the occasional maple tree with blazing red leaves, the fall landscape here glows mostly with hues of brilliant yellows and lime greens, with the exception of the Arbutus and Manzanita trees. Both turn red in late summer, not in their leaves but in their trunks, which look almost as if they were deliberately painted. These and countless other botanic species abound in Gowlland Tod, which is worth exploring with Hike Victoria as Vukobrat not only knows the best approaches and wildlife spotting areas but is also a professional photographer whose custom images you will want to enlarge and frame.

Photo: JeniFoto/Shutterstock

Butchart Gardens in the town of Brentwood Bay is among the most popular places to see fall colors, which you can walk through in the course of an afternoon. Goldstream Park is another of Greater Victoria’s not-to-miss autumn outdoor spots. You’ll reach a waterfall after a short, Goonies-esque ramble through a dark tunnel. You can also walk across the abandoned railroad trestle, which will test your sense of vertigo. This time of year, the park offers unrivaled viewing of the annual salmon run. Hell-bent on reaching their upstream spawning destination, thousands of tattered salmon can be seen leaping out of the water amid the enormous Douglas fir trees of this old-growth rainforest throughout October and early November.

Photo: 2009fotofriends/Shutterstock

Mt. Douglas towers above the coastline a few minutes north of the city with short but lung-busting trails to the top, their moss-covered pines and lush clusters of ferns giving way to rock slabs that sometimes require four limbs to climb and descend. There’s also a paved road that’s great for cycling in the morning before cars are permitted. The summit offers sweeping views of downtown and the San Juan Islands. Also, one of Victoria’s most colorful outdoor escapes is situated smack in the middle of the city. Beacon Hill is a 200-acre park comprised of native wildflowers, grasslands, and majestic willows reflected in duck- and turtle-filled ponds, plus the world’s tallest totem pole measuring 127 feet.

Victoria does colors on the plate as well as it does them outdoors.

Photo: 10 Acres Restaurants & Farm/Facebook

Of course, salmon is a star menu item at most local haunts, and Victoria is unquestionably a foodie city regardless of when you visit. However, all matter of fresh ingredients abound during the fall harvest. Dinner standouts include Saveur, a cozy French venue housed in a converted boot factory with wine and small plate pairings that will enliven every vacuole of your palate, and Little Jumbo, a place not afraid to integrate creative elements like freshly smoked carrots into their cocktail menu. Also, 10 Acres sources as many ingredients as possible from its very own farm and, in spite of its fine-dining status, serves mountainous portions of comfort dishes like pork chops and fish and chips.

Autumn is also arguably the most popular season for brunch, at which Victoria restaurants excel. Top farm-to-table brunch joints include the aforementioned Nourish Kitchen; the classy Courtney Room, where you can always count on a lip-smacking fresh fruit compote accompanying the cookie crumb-topped French toast; The Village, with its buzzy new Chinatown location and unique chef menu changing every weekend depending on what’s fresh. For your bread fix, head to the Fol Epi/Agrius bakery, where the flour-y aromas alone make your head spin.

Local breweries and vineyards also unload fresh cornucopias for fall. Averill Creek’s unique Harvest Moon event pairs each of its varietals with inspired bites from neighboring farms, and scrumptious seasonal suds include the Blackberry sour at Whistle Buoy and the Sweet Potato Harvest Ale at Four Mile Brewing.


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