Hank Shaw's Blog, page 81

Foraging for Fennel Seeds

It's fennel seed time here in NorCal. We have wild fennel everywhere here, and now is the time -- before the first real rains -- to gather the seeds, which have dried nicely.

Scarcity From Abundance

I am fascinated by Nordic cooking, in no small part because it's a cuisine of scarcity - and scarcity fuels innovation. Here in NorCal, we live in the soft, warm center of the world's cornucopia. As I try to form my own personal style of cooking, I find myself looking for scarcity among abundance.

Kelp Pasta with the Rockfish that Swam Among It

Kelp pasta. Not pasta made from slivered kelp fronds, but real pasta with homemade kelp powder added. It makes a briny, emerald noodle that I served with the Pacific rockfish that swam among the kelp, along with summer vegetables. It's a culinary experiment worth repeating.

How to Make Ceviche Safely

In hot weather, a cold, crunchy-spicy-acidic ceviche really hits the spot. I make it all the time. But you just can't make ceviche with any old fish. Any parasites living in the fish will survive the citrus bath. Here's my ceviche recipe and how to make your own ceviche without fear of parasites.

Tuna Schooled

I've fished for tuna, off and on, my whole life. But the more you fish, the more you understand how different the fishing can be from place to place, even for the same species. This latest trip off the Mexican Coast was, well, a learning experience.

Pigeon or Dove Tortellini

This is a classic Italian recipe they use with pigeons, but it will work with squab, doves or even teal, too. Roasted birds, chopped fine and stuffed into an egg pasta, served with juniper butter with rosemary.

How to Preserve Peppers

This is how I preserve the season's pepper harvest. I've done this with red bells, green bells, pimientos, piquillos, Hatch chiles, jalapenos, you name it. It's a great way to have roasted peppers at your fingertips the whole year through.

Seared Salmon with Cucumber Sauce

If you've never paired salmon with cucumbers, you are missing out. It's a surprisingly natural combination, and since both are in season now, I thought I'd put them together in a pretty little date-night dish.

Grilled Doves a la Mancha

This is my signature dish for dove season. Grilled dove is one of my favorites, and this Spanish-inspired take on them never fails to please.

Bluefish Pate

Ah, the unloved bluefish. I grew up catching and eating these oily, oceanic piranhas, and I love them still. Smoked bluefish is one of my favorite smoked fish, largely because I can then make this pate from it.