Gary Allen's Blog, page 5
August 13, 2022
Food Sites for September 2022
It’s still summer—can there be a more summery salad?
We don’t know what it’s been like where you are—but this summer, here in the Hudson Valley, has been brutal. The only times we willingly went outside was when we needed to pluck a few leaves from the basil. On the other hand, sitting in front of the air conditioner, for hours on end, meant that we found a huge number of interesting sites to include here.
It also gave us time to post several pieces to our Substack newsletter:
One recent post, “Sweet Burden of Youth...”, gave Dr Sanscravat a podium for pontification. As if he ever needed one.
“A While Back...” is an account of the origins of our first herb book—and the false starts that preceded it.
”Philosopher’s Stone” considers the way memories change over time... and uses a story from Prophet Amidst Losses as an example.
“Seen Through a Glass... Darkly” revisits an ancient hangover. The attached story is lifted from The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions.
“Summatime, Summatime, Sum, Sum, Summatime” abuses a friend’s innocent question, turning it into an excuse to post something from How to Write a Great Book.
You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.
There’s more to summer than salad—even ala Caprese—hence these comments from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:
Without ice cream, there would be darkness and chaos. Don Kardong
I doubt whether the world holds for anyone a more soul-stirring surprise than the first adventure with ice cream. Heywood Broun
I don’t cry over spilt milk, but a fallen scoop of ice cream is enough to ruin my whole day. Terri Guillemets
My advice to you is not to inquire why or whither, but just enjoy your ice cream while it’s on your plate—that’s my philosophy. Thornton Wilder
Ice cream is exquisite. What a pity it isn’t illegal. Voltaire
Gary
September 2022
PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our virtual hat to Star Lawrence), thanks, and keep them coming!
PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.
— the new sites —
16 Types of Coconuts and How to Use Them
(comprehensive HAPPYDIYHOME article)
American Cookbooks & Culinary Antiquarianism
(first of a two-part Substack post, by David S. Shields, about the precursors of today’s kind of food history; second part is titled “Issue 65, COLONIAL COOKING, Part 2: Charleston Discovers Culinary Antiquity”—see below)
Ancient Europeans Were Lactose Intolerant. They Drank Milk Anyway, Study Finds.
(Rachel Pannett’s Washington Post article on scientists’ conclusion that “lactase persistence [the ability to consume dairy without digestive problems] was not common until around 1,000 B.C., nearly 4,000 years after it was first detected”)
(Maria Popova provides a history of the alligator pear for The Marginalian)
Corn Whiskey Is Coming for You
(Fred Higgins, at Punch, writes about the newly-respectable versions of what was once known as “white lightning”)
(the introductory paper—by Allen J. Grieco, Mary Hyman, and Peter Scholliers—in 2006’s Food & History, vol. 4)
From Dry January to Fake Cocktails, Inside the New Temperance Movement
(Jason Wilson’s Washington Post article)
Guide to Eating as Many Flowers as Possible, A
(an interview with Dina Falconi, author of Foraging & Feasting: A Field Guide and Wild Food Cookbook, in Improvised Life)
Hellmann’s Mayonnaise: A History
(Andrew F. Smith’s definitive essay on the subject)
History and Legends of Hamburgers
(from What’s Cooking America, complete with a list of sources used for the article)
History of Some of America’s Favorite Sandwiches, A
(Hilary Harty’s article about ten of them at Fifty Grande)
Hollywood Effect, The: How Fried Green Tomatoes Became a Southern “Classic”
(Robert Moss’s Serious Eats article begins at The Whistlestop Café)
How Arcane Is Turning Craft Beer into Great Whiskey in a Matter of Days
(Kirk Miller’s Inside Hook report about a novel distilling process—in Brooklyn)
How Trying to Find a Cure for Scurvy Led to the Gimlet
(excerpt from Camper English’s Doctors and Distillers: The Remarkable Medicinal History of Beer, Wine, Spirits, and Cocktails)
“I’ll Have What She’s Having”: The Jewish Deli
(a traveling exhibition, beginning at The Skirball Cultural Center, in Los Angeles; more here)
Infographic: How to Tell the Difference Between 66 Varieties of Cheese
(one approach to simplifying the almost infinite expressions of milk’s “leap toward immortality”)
Issue 65, COLONIAL COOKING, Part 2: Charleston Discovers Culinary Antiquity
(second of a two-part Substack post, by David S. Shields, about the precursors of today’s kind of food history; first part is titled “American Cookbooks & Culinary Antiquarianism“)
It’s Time to Take Notice of English Whisky
(Millie Milliken’s survey on Vinepair)
(Annie Ewbank, on Sodium Bicarbonate, for Gastro Obscura)
Mysterious Mushroom That Only Grows in Burn Scars, The
(Elaina Zachos’ Gastro Obscura article about a species of “pyrophilous, or ‘fire-loving,’” morels)
(Nikhita Venugopal’s Fifty-Two account of what it takes to sell ketchup in India)
So You Want to Be a Bootlegger
(Jeff Nilsson, recounts some instructions—from a 1922 issue of The Saturday Evening Post)
Unnatural Reactions to Natural Wine
(wine journalist Oliver Styles takes on a certain kind of wine journalism for wine-searcher)
— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —
Can the Jewish Deli Be Reformed?
Changing Landscape of Eating Roadkill, The
Chef Restoring Appalachia’s World-Class Food Culture, The
Choco Tacos and Remembrance of Junk Foods Past
Ephemeral Appeal of Indie Food Zines, The
Ephemeral Art of Mexico City’s Food Stalls
Everyone’s Thirsty for The Bear—Here’s What It’s Really Like to Date a Chef
Future of Food: Agriculture, The
Internet Cannot Get Enough of Wacky Sculptures Made of Food, The
Is Root Beer the Next Frontier in Beer Drinkers’ Cravings for Nostalgia?
Is the Minimalist Restaurant Menu Over?
MFA vs. IRS: How Should Creative Writing Programs Talk about the Business of Publishing?
Mother Noella & The Cycles of Life
New Orleans’ Cult Favorite Sandwich Shop Finally Has a Cookbook
Rise of Cottage-Food Production, The
What Exactly Is American Food?
What Is Food?: By Upgrading the Food System, We Upgrade Society
Who Am I? And the Author’s Bio
Why Are U.S. Presidents So Obsessed with Ketchup?
Why Care about Food and Wine as Art
Will Rice Farming in California Survive the Drought?
Writing Mistakes Writers Make: Choosing Between Plotting or Pantsing
Your Kitchen is a Time Machine: An interview with Marissa Nicosia of Cooking in the Archives
— podcasts, etcetera —
Celebrating your Sunday Best with chef Adrienne Cheatham
How to Capture Stunning iPhone Food Photos in the Kitchen
How to Shoot Commercial-Worthy Food Photos on iPhone
Restaurant Food Photography: Capturing People & Food
— that’s all for now —
Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:
As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.
Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.
Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:
The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)
The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier
Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Write a Great Book
The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Tabula Rasa, Baby: (Not Written in Stone)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...
...for the moment, anyway.
______________
The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #263 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.
Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.
July 13, 2022
Food Sites for August 2022
A couple of young tomatoes...
...that might even ripen sometime in August. We’re not really vegetable gardeners, so—up to this moment—these tomatoes are pure expectation. But, as Laurie Colwin opined, “a world without tomatoes is like a string quartet without violins.”
For now—we’re holding our breath.
We’ve posted A LOT to our Substack newsletter, lately. “What’s It All About, Anyway?” attempts to solve one of life’s great mysteries (with predictable results). ”In the Beginning...” is the lurid tale of how an innocent illustrator was turned to the dark side (i.e., taking up writing). “More Early-day Stuff...” provides a bit of the back story of how Human Cuisine came to be compiled. “Truth, Justice, and the Angling Way“ combines—unlikely as you might expect—lying, fishing, and seventeenth-century English poetry. It’s a story excerpted from Prophet Amidst Losses. “Watch Out for My Uncle... He’s a Cannibal!“ tries to explain our former preoccupation with anthropophagy (adapted from How to Serve Man: On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating) “77 Years Ago...” is a creation story (and only tangentially about the formation of radioactive isotopes). It comes with a poem. “You Must Remember This...” refers to an excerpt from Cenotaphs. It’s fantastic (but only in the sense that it’s just a fantasy).
A free Substack subscription will automatically deliver—under cover of darkness—such things to your virtual mailbox. In unrelated news, our poem “Trekking the Osteo Path,” was published in July 12th issue of Stunning Poetry (a digital newsletter by Silent Spark Press).
You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.
August is high summer, hence these comments from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:
Summer cooking implies a sense of immediacy, a capacity to capture the fleeting moment. Elizabeth David
No dish changes quite so much from season to season as soup. Summer’s soups come chilled, in pastel colors strewn with herbs. If hot they are sheer insubstantial broths afloat with seafood. Florence Fabricant
Cold soup is a very tricky thing and it is the rare hostess who can carry it off. More often than not, the dinner guest is left with the impression that had he only come a little earlier he could have gotten it while it was still hot. Fran Lebowitz
Gary
August 2022
PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our virtual hat to Fabio Parasecoli), thanks, and keep them coming!
PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.
— the new sites —
Bengal’s Ethnic Sweetmeats—An Unconventional Food: History, Tradition, Culture
(PDF of a paper on the complex range of Bengali dishes—candies/desserts—written by Tanmay Sarkar, Molla Salauddin, et. al)
Chicken and Waffles: The Pennsylvania Story
(William Woys Weaver served it up in the Fall 2020 issue of Pennsylvania Heritage)
“Delectable Foods”: This 13th-Century Cookbook Reveals a World of Delicious Recipes
(report of the discovery—and subsequent translation—of a rare cookbook by Andalusi scholar Ibn Razīn al-Tujībī, with recipes, in London’s Financial Times)
(Annie Ewbank’s reminiscences about the golden age of department store dining, in Gastro Obscura)
(PDF of Melitta Weiss Adamson’s 2004 book)
(the plot thickens in Tim Chin’s Serious Eats story)
How a “Bubble Expert” Decoded the Physics of Making Mezcal
(María Paula Rubiano A., at Gastro Obscura, on learning why—and how—traditional proofing methods work)
How to Make the Perfect Cup of Italian Coffee
(Adam H. Graham’s history of the Moka pot, in the American Express magazine, Departures)
Invention of Modern Baby Formula, The
(Claudia Gelb, at Eater, traces its development to nineteenth century scientists)
MSG Convert Visits the High Church of Umami, An
(Helen Rosner enhances the flavor of “The Annals of Gastronomy” in The New Yorker)
Origins of Fake Meat Are Rooted in Chinese Cooking, The
(Ruby Lott-Lavigna’s Vice article about traditional Buddhist vegetarian cookery and its modern incarnations)
Paneer and the Origin of Cheese in India
(Aditya Raghavan’ history in The Hindu)
Purple Corn, Coyol Sap & Legume Pods of Guanacaste & Nicoya
(Nicholas Gill’s New Worlder post about the “wild foods and ancestral agriculture in northwestern Costa Rica”)
Tale of Two Buds, A: The Centuries-Old Feud Between American Budweiser and Czech Budweiser
(Brit Dawson’s Mel Magazine article blows the foam off a long-standing dispute)
Unhealthy, Smelly, and Strange: Why Italians Avoided Tomatoes for Centuries
(William Alexander’s answer, at Literary Hub; an excerpt from Ten Tomatoes That Changed the World)
(“unheard food stories” from “the many different cuisines within the U.K.”—and around the world)
(Danilo Alfaro addresses—in The Spruce Eats—the differences between methods that produce lactic acid, ethyl alcohol, and acetic acid)
Why Does Spicy Food Make You Sweat?
(an Inverse article in which “a neuroscientist breaks it down”)
(what, exactly, does “organic,” or “certified organic,” or “certified naturally grown” really mean? John Porter has the answers in Mother Earth News)
— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —
3 Best Angles for Incredible Food Photography, The
Book Review: Notes from a Small Kitchen Island
Busting the Myth: YouTube Was My Nigerian Family Cookbook
Cooking History–How Food Inspired Events Can Enrich Museum Engagement
Cooking Through History with the Hofstra Special Collections
Epicurus on Wine Education and Its Perils
Father’s Recipe That Crossed Three Continents, A
Food and Faulkner: Stability and Nourishment Amidst Chaos in The Sound and the Fury
“Hangry Is a Real Thing”: Psychologists Find Link Between Hunger and Emotions
How Did the Diner Menu Get So Long?
Infinite Ellipses of Ritual and Flavor
Inside the Colorful, Campy, Unapologetically Horny World of Erotic Cookbooks
On the Rigidity of Recipe Writing
On Writing (and Not Writing) About Mutton Biryani
Romance Novels Are Increasingly Getting Hot and Heavy in the Kitchen
Simple Styling Tricks for More Appealing Food Photography
Sniffing Out a Cure for Smell Loss
Suiting the Local Taste Preferences: Stories of Transformation of Foods
Traditional English Food with Strange Names
Unbreakable Rules of the Chicago Dog—and When to Bend Them, The
What Our Fantasies About Futuristic Food Say About Us
Whipped Cream, No Other Delights
Why Do We Remember More by Reading in Print Vs. on a Screen?
Writers Shouldn’t Talk: Stop Encouraging Them
You Can Spot Climate Change in Old Restaurant Menus
— podcasts, etcetera —
4 Tricks to Isolate Your Subject in iPhone Food Photography
Can a Cocktail Trend Be Ironic?
F Word, The: Fatphobia in the Food Industry
Grandma Ida’s Nut Rolls Gravestone
Meet the Shaman Using Ancient Chocolate Rituals to Revive Mayan Traditions
(unfortunately, many ads)
Simple Tips for Magazine-Worthy Drink Photography
This Is Kwame Onwuachi’s America (and We’re Just Living in It)
What Cheese Looks Like Around the World
What Leopold Bloom’s Food Diary Tells Us about Bloomsday
— changed URL —
— that’s all for now —
Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:
Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.
As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.
Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:
The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)
The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier
Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Write a Great Book
The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Tabula Rasa, Baby: (Not Written in Stone)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...
...for the moment, anyway.
______________
The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #262 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.
Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.
June 10, 2022
Food Sites for July 2022
Not yet grapes, let alone wine...
Folks’ gardens are just beginning to yield seasonal delights‑but they contain the promise of so much more, in another month or so.
Speaking of promises—that lead to larger than expected returns—we just realized that this issue marks the twenty-second year of publishing them. Someone recently posted that “Gary Allen has been writing about food for more years than most readers have been alive.” It was just a tad hyperbolic, but one wonders what else we could have been doing during those decades.
Probably better not to linger too long on that thought.
Maybe we should go shopping for some 22-year-old wine—or bourbon—to mark the anniversary.
Anyway—in the past monthe we’ve continued posting to our Substack newsletter. “I'll Take Schadenfreude for Five Hundred, Alex” features a story from Prophet Amidst Losses. The scene opens in a restaurant, but slides (quite literally, I’m afraid) precipitously downhill from there. “Call Any Vegetable...” leads to samples from Terms of Vegery; it’s about food only in the most frivolous fashion imaginable. “Once Upon a Time…” is another Substack post; it’s an excerpt from Backstories (which is not, at all, about food). A free subscription will automatically deliver these things to your virtual mailbox—in a virtual plain-brown wrapper—and no one will be the wiser (including you).
You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a LOT of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.
A few summery comments from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:
Summer cooking implies a sense of immediacy, a capacity to capture the fleeting moment. Elizabeth David
A vegetable garden in the beginning looks so promising and then after all little by little it grows nothing but vegetables, nothing but vegetables. Gertrude Stein
Although the frankfurter originated in Frankfurt, Germany, we have long since made it our own, a twin pillar of democracy along with Mom’s apple pie. In fact, now that Mom’s apple pie comes frozen and baked by somebody who isn’t Mom, the hot dog stands alone. What it symbolizes remains pure, even if what it contains does not. William Zinsser
Gary
July 2022
PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Jonell Galloway), thanks, and keep them coming!
PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.
— the new sites —
70 Percent of the World’s Macadamia Nuts Came from One Tree in Australia
(Sabrina Imbler followed the genetic trail to Hawaii for Gastro Obscura)
Before Chickens Were Nuggets, They Were Revered
(Nick Erickson’s New York Times article on recent work by bioarchaeologists and evolutionary biologists)
Black Creole Chef Who Paved the Way for Food TV, The
(Kayla Stewart’s account, in The Bittman Project, about the influential, but barely remembered, Lena Richard)
Building Blocks: Tortillas, a Culture’s DNA
(María Ítaka’s homage at Culinary Backstreets)
Cheese Mountains, Milk Lakes, and Other Surprising Stockpiles
(Gastro Obscura’s Diana Hubbell examines the economics and absurdities of governmental warehousing of surplus foodstuffs)
Diplomats and the Rise of “Foodism” in the 1960s and 1970s
(Rachel Laudan’s musings about why so many of the most influential food writers came from a career that had nothing to do with food)
(Roger Angell’s New Yorker paeon—a long leg and a triangle—to the most classic of cocktails)
Food Pairings: An Investigation into Why Foods Pair Well Together
(a 2013 master’s thesis by Mark Gaffney)
From Tiger Paws to White Claws: The 40-Year History of Flavored Seltzer Water
(VinePair’s Tim McKirdy on flavored fizzy water that isn’t an egg cream)
(Clifford Wright’s account of traditional ricotta made from whey)
How America Embraced Aspics with Threatening Auras
(Diana Hubbel’s Gastro Obscura article on the past and future of “perfection salads,” the complicated gelatin dishes that frighten, amuse, and attract us strangely)
Israelite Pottery and Household Life
(Jennifer Drummond’s article, in Bible History Daily, on food storage methods in ancient Israel)
Long History of Fragrant Food in India, from Massaging Hens with Musk to Cooking in Leaves, The
(Priyadarshini Chatterjee’s article, in Scroll.in, on a thousand years of perfumed cookery)
(Todd Coleman’s Saveur article about the real-life Duncan Hines)
(an article, on Dwight Furrow’s Edible Arts, on theories about how grape wine was first discovered)
New Insights on Ancient Spice Trade
(archaeological evidence of bi-directional trade in the Middle East; reporting on research published in Antiquity: ”Caravanserai Middens On Desert Roads: A New Perspective on the Nabataean-Roman Trade Network Across the Negev”)
Periodic Graphics: Baking Soda Versus Baking Powder
(Andy Brunning on leavening agents—other than yeast or other microbes—in Chemical & Engineering News)
Plants and People: Choices and Diversity through Time
(PDF of 2014 monograph by Alexandre Chevalier, Elena Marinova,and Leonor Peña-Chocarro)
Prove Me Wrong: The Margarita Is the Madonna of Cocktails
(VINEPAIR’s Katie Brown pours a social history of the popular tequila drink)
Quest to Recreate a Lost and ‘Terrifying’ Medieval Mead, The
(Gemma Tarlach’s experiments with making mead with caramelized honey; recipe and explanation in Gastro Obscura)
(an adventure in experimental archaeology, in The Conversation)
Sweet and Sour History of NYC’s Pickle Alley, The
(Nicole Saraniero whets our appetite for a talk on the subject, at Untapped Cities)
(2013 article in the Journal of Archaeological Science, by Dagmar Dreslerova, et. al.)
(Katheryn C Twiss’s 2007 paper in The Archaeology of Food and Identity; PDF)
What Is American Cheese, Anyway?
(J. Kenji López-Alt Krafts an answer at Serious Eats)
— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —
5 Tips for Keyword Research for Food Bloggers
Abuelita’s Kitchen: Mexican Food Stories
As Police Use “Foodie” to Recruit, What Does the Word Mean?
Behind the Design: LEON: Ingredients & Recipes
Climate Change Is Now on the Menu at Seafood Restaurants
Cube Rule of Food Identification, The
El Rey Zapoteco: The Matron of Mezcal
Greatest Food Hoaxes of All Time, The
Here’s How Day Drinking Affects Your Body Differently, According to Experts
How a 50s Food Writer Championed Kerala’s Cuisine, One Column at a Time
José Andrés: The Power of Food
Numbers Driving New Cookbook Deals, The
Riveting Memoir of Life as a Chef with an Eating Disorder, A
Should You Start a Newsletter? David Lebovitz Weighs In
(subscription required)
When My Husband Left Me, I Headed for the Kitchen–Here’s How Comfort Food Can Save the Soul
Why Is Every Cookbook a Memoir Now?
World War Wednesday: We Eat Because We Work
— more blogs —
Great Food, Big Love, and Miss Emily Meggett
— podcasts, etcetera —
Andrew Zimmern’s Wild Game Kitchen
Chine: Dans le Restaurant du Futur, des Robots Cuisinent et Servent les Clients
Dear Writer: Advice on Writing Through Isolation
Meat & Three: A Culinary Book Club
Why Only 1% of Japan’s Soy Sauce Is Made This Way
— that’s all for now —
Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:
As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.
Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.
Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:
The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)
The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier
Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Write a Great Book
The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Tabula Rasa, Baby: (Not Written in Stone)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...
...for the moment, anyway.
______________
The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #261 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.
Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.
May 13, 2022
Food Sites for June 2022
Ramps and fiddleheads...
...seasonal treats to harvest when morels—or trout—successfully elude our efforts to bring them to the table. If only they’d all cooperate. We imagine a dinner of morels & fiddleheads, with trout in ramp butter. Alas, Spring’s larder is as fickle as its weather. So we freeze ramp butter and dry morels for another time, another dinner, perhaps in the dead of Winter—when Spring is only a memory or a dream.
You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.
We’ve continued posting our Substack newsletter. “Another Little Taste...” includes a sample from Ephemera; “You’ve Been Served...” features an essay from Tabula Rasa, Baby: (Not Written in Stone); it’s not really a food book—but, as our gullet is adjacent to our brain pan, there’s plenty of culinary content in it. The Writing Life ...Whatever That Might Be is another Substack post; it’s an excerpt from How to Write a Great Book (which is not, at all, about food). As usual, a free subscription automatically delivers these things to your virtual mailbox—and no one will be the wiser (including you).
A couple of foraged comments, from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:
A white truffle, which elsewhere might sell for hundreds of dollars, seemed easier to come by than something fresh and green. What could be got from the woods was free and amounted to a diurnal dining diary that everyone kept in their heads. May was wild asparagus, arugula, and artichokes. June was wild lettuce and stinging nettles. July was cherries and wild strawberries. August was forest berries. September was porcini. Bill Buford
My fare is really sumptuous this evening; buffaloe’s humps, tongues and marrowbones, fine trout parched meal pepper and salt, and a good appetite; the last is not considered the least of the luxuries. Journals of Lewis and Clark, Thursday, June 13, 1805
Gary
June 2022
PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Krishnendu Ray), thanks, and keep them coming!
PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.
— the new sites —
Ancient Beer is Craft’s New Frontier
(Sara Toth Stub’s Sapiens article on collaborations between archaeologists and brewmasters)
Ancient Indigenous Oyster Fishing Practices Could Save Coastal Ecosystems, Study Finds
(Jennifer Walter’s Inverse article on oysters and water quality)
Armenia’s Culinary History Hides in a Museum’s Manuscripts
(Rafael Tonon reports, for Gastro Obscura, on ten manuscripts in the Mesrop Mashtots Institute of Ancient Manuscripts)
Battle to Invent the Automatic Rice Cooker, The
(Anne Ewbank chronicles the triumph of Japanese technology for Gastro Obscura)
Chemical Traces in Ancient West African Pots Show a Diet Rich in Plants
(Julie Dunne, in Phys Org, on recent archaeological findings from Nigeria)
Chinese Food Is a Celebration of Time and Place
(Clarissa Wei weighs in, at Epicurious, on authenticity vs. adaptability in Chinese cuisine)
Comprehensive History of Beer Brewing, A
(Franz Meussdoerffer’s chapter of 2009’s Handbook of Brewing: Processes, Technology, Markets)
Dutch Institute of Food & Design, The
(international group that publishes—among other things—Magazine F, each issue of which is devoted to a single ingredient)
Experiencing the Ancient Flavors of Recipes from the Bible
(Ronit Vered’s article in Haaretz—requires subscription)
How to Eat Like an Anglo-Saxon King
(Diana Hubbell debunks a few culinary myths for Gastro Obscura)
Inside Look at Judith Jones’ First Notes for Julia Child, An
(an excerpt from Helen Lefkowitz Horowitz’ Warming Up Julia Child: The Remarkable Figures Who Shaped a Legend that tells the story of the early days of editing Mastering the Art of French Cooking)
(99 Percent Invisible takes on the grocery industry’s use of “ethnic aisles”)
(“Ah-BEETS,” you say? Jan Whitaker’s Restaurant-ing Through History site takes on pizza’s curious local monikers in Connecticut)
Precolonial First Nations Oyster Fisheries Sustained Millennia of Intense Harvests, Study Shows
(Donna Lu’s article, in The Guardian, on the scale and methodology of indigenous oyster culture)
(British food: A History has an answer; no surprise, the word had different meanings on the opposite shores of the Atlantic)
— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —
Advice for Future Food Writers
AI Sommelier Generates Wine Reviews without Ever Opening a Bottle
Aunty Sylvie’s Sponge: Foodmaking, Cookbooks and Nostalgia
Can This Cultivated Meat Startup Make Lion Meat a Thing?
Collapse of the Industrial Livestock Industry is Coming, The
Feminine Ending/Masculine Ending
High Art of Food Literature, The. Seriously?
How to Organize, Clean, and Maintain Cookbooks
We Invented the Cow 10,000 Years Ago
Why are Many Modern Recipes a Challenge?
Why You Should Learn “Winespeak”
— podcasts, etcetera —
Comfort Foods for a Weary World
How Black Culture Helped Define American Cuisine
Nopalitos: Taming the Prickly Pear Cactus
— that’s all for now —
Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:
As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.
Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.
Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:
The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)
The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier
Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Write a Great Book
The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Tabula Rasa, Baby: (Not Written in Stone)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...
...for the moment, anyway.
______________
The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #260 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.
Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.
April 15, 2022
Food Sites for May 2022
Drying morels wantonly ejecting their spores all over our table.
May is, indeed a lusty, x-rated kind of month. Shameless birds sing their version of the NY Review of Books personal ads, hours before dawn, and flowers spew their pollen everywhere, with nary a blush. Even mushrooms want to get into the “spreading-the-seed” act.
You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.
We’ve also started a new way to distribute our other writing: a Substack newsletter. The first post is entitled “Not Everything is about Food History.” A free subscription delivers titillating samples of our non-food-history scribbles to your virtual mailbox (there are two more posts, already)—in the proverbial plain brown wrapper—so no one need know about your furtive reading habits. Like Tom Lehrer’s old dope peddler, we “know full well that today’s young innocent faces will be tomorrow’s clientele.”
Did you enjoy being described as a “young innocent face”?
You’re welcome.
Some perspective, and advice, from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:
I hate people who are not serious about meals. It is so shallow of them. Oscar Wilde
Seize the moment. Remember all those women on the ‘Titanic’ who waved off the dessert cart. Erma Bombeck
Many people claim coffee inspires them, but, as everybody knows, coffee only makes boring people even more boring. Honoré de Balzac
Food writing shouldn’t be precious, pretentious, or condescending. Just because you know what confit means doesn’t make you a better person. Adam Roberts
Gary
May, 2022
PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Bob DelGrosso), thanks, and keep them coming!
PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.
— the new sites —
All the Tea (Not) in China: The Story of How India Became a Tea-Drinking Nation
(Alex Downs’ article in Serious Eats)
Biblical Kings Drank Vanilla-Flavored Wine
(Nathan Steinmeyer, in Bible History Daily, on archaeological evidence of nearly three-thousend-year-old spice trade)
Hidden History of the Nutmeg Island That Was Traded for Manhattan, The
(Mark Hay’s Gastro Obscura article on spice trade and world politics—and how New Amsterdam became New York)
How Booze Is Used in the Making of Cheese
(Pamela Vachon’s article on washing and marinating cheeses with wine, beer, or spirits to develop new flavors)
It’s More Than Tacos: Inside LA’s First Mexican Food Museum
(Eva Recinos visits LA Plaza Cocina for The Guardian)
(technical article from Food and Agricultural History)
(international news and articles about, and recipes for, olive oil)
Rome’s New Museum Dedicated to Cooking
(the BBC’s Ronan O’Connell tours the Museo della Cucina)
Unsung Women of the Betty Crocker Test Kitchens, The
(Anne Ewbank’s Gastro Obscura article, based on Susan Marks’ book, Finding Betty Crocker: The Secret Life of America’s First Lady of Food)
— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —
10 Tips For Writers From Douglas Adams
12 Most Unforgettable Descriptions of Food in Literature, The
Are We Entering the Post-Natural Wine Era?
De-Bunking the Industry Bias Behind Plant-Based Meat
Eat Like a Medieval Saint With Her Recipe for “Cookies of Joy”
Haven’t We Told Julia Child’s Story Enough?
How to Write Award-Winning Cookbooks
Joy of Cooking Blasphemous Fusion Food, The
Mixologist Has Nine Lives, The
What Humanity Should Eat to Stay Healthy and Save the Planet
— podcasts, etcetera —
Unreserved Wine Talk Podcast with Natalie MacLean, The
Women and Alcohol: History, Myths, and Trailblazers
— that’s all for now —
Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:
As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.
Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.
Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:
The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)
The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier
Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Write a Great Book
The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...
...for the moment, anyway.
______________
The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #259 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.
Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.
March 19, 2022
Food Sites for April 2022
Chef Julius, inventor of Caesar Salad.
As first recorded by Apicius, the earliest written record of the eponymous romaine salad made generous use of egg, hard cheese from the provinces, lemon, good olive oil, and garum—beaten like a galley slave—then lavished upon lactucae. The leaves untimely ripped, of course (as was the photo, from the internet).
It is almost April First, and no better time than now to disseminate some food fakelore.
You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.
More foolishness from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:
An intelligent man is sometimes forced to be drunk to spend time with his fools. Ernest Hemingway
Drinking makes such fools of people, and people are such fools to begin with that it's compounding a felony. Robert Benchley
Some people have a foolish way of not minding, or of pretending not to mind, what they eat. For my part, I mind my belly very studiously and very carefully; for I look upon it that he who does not mind his belly will hardly mind anything else. Samuel Johnson
Gary
April, 2022
PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Dianne Jacob), thanks, and keep them coming!
PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.
— the new sites —
(descriptions with photos, plus a short introduction to plum history)
Betty Crocker’s Cosmopolitan Kitchens
(Annie Ewbank’s Gastro Obscura interview with Susan Marks—author of Finding Betty Crocker: The Secret Life of America's First Lady of Food)
(subscription-based searchable access to vast number of recipes, cookbooks, food reference books, author bios, and feature articles)
Food History and Gastronomic Traditions of Beans in Italy
(Giandomenico Corrado’s article in the Journal of Ethnic Foods)
(Kevin O’Briant’s 2017 article in Beyond Beer Magazine)
J. Kenji López-Alt Says You’re Cooking Just Fine
(Helen Rosner’s New Yorker interview)
Man Who Discovered Umami, The
(Veronique Greenwood’s article about Kikunae Ikeda, and the perception of taste, in BBC Future)
Medieval Influencer Who Convinced the World to Drink Tea, The—Not Eat It
(Miranda Brown’s Gastro Obscura article about Lu Yu—”the world’s greatest tea influencer”)
Necco Wafers: The Return of an American Candy Classic
(Aimee Tucker’s New England Today article about a candy that was in the pockets of many Civil War soldiers)
Peeling Onions, Layer by Layer
(Yasmin Amin’s paper on the use of two alliums in Islamic cookery; included in Insatiable Appetite: Food as Cultural Signifier in the Middle East and Beyond)
Recipe From a Talented Chef Enslaved by a Founding Father, A
(Natasha Frost’s Gastro Observer article about James Hemings, the cook in Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello kitchen)
(Susan Verberg’s 2018 paper on the historical differences between beers made with hops and other herbs)
What Is the Arabesque Kitchen?
(N.A. Mansour’s Eater review of The Arabesque Table, discusses multiple varieties of Arabic cuisine)
What Makes Oaxacan Food Oaxacan?
(Bricia Lopez’s Eater piece on something that’s too complex to be covered by one word)
— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —
8 Tips to Become a Successful Content Writer
Anton Ego and the Critical Sense
“Cultivated Meat is no Silver Bullet” by Carlo Petrini
Curious Case of Colonial India’s Breakfast Curries, The
Food Writer Dishes on Black Culinary Traditions, A (and Top Spots to Experience Them)
History of the Last Time I Ate at a Chinese Buffet, A
How I Got My Job: Creating Weeknight Recipe Faves for Top Publications and Writing a Cookbook
I’m Common as Muck and Spent £150 in a Michelin Star Restaurant to See If It Was Worth It
John Locke’s Personal Pancake Recipe: “This Is the Right Way” to Make the Classic Breakfast Treat
Meet the Indispensable Bagel Rollers of NYC
National Cuisine Is a Useful Illusion
Reader Comments for The New York Times’ “Homestyle Spaghetti Carbonara” Recipe
Remembering Two Fat Ladies, the Perfect Fat-Positive Cooking Show
“The Automat” Is a Guide to the Wonders of Mid-Twentieth-Century Urbanism
To Evade Pre-Prohibition Drinking Laws, New Yorkers Created the World’s Worst Sandwich
— podcasts, etcetera —
Grounds for Revolution: the Stimulating
Story of How Coffee Shaped the World
New Secret Chicken Recipe, The?
People Can’t Believe That THIS Is How Cashews Grow
See the True Cost of Your Cheap Chicken
Well-Seasoned Librarian, The: A Conversation About Food, Food Writing and More
When Sitting Bull Came to Dinner
(you’ll need to use this passcode: .p$1t74C [Note that the passcode starts with a period])
— changed URL —
What We Write About When We Write About Food
— that’s all for now —
Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:
As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.
Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.
Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:
The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)
The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier
Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Write a Great Book
The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...
...for the moment, anyway.
______________
The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #258 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.
Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.
February 11, 2022
Food Sites for March 2022
February was brutal, this year.
It called for a particularly dark and stormy Dark and Stormy—
à propos for a dark and stormy month.
(It should have been lime... but I used what I had on hand)
March is fast upon us, and we couldn’t be happier. February brought us an ice storm that left us without heat or light for days on end. Between that, and living our second year with the vagaries of Covid-19 (with inexplicably-odd lacunae on grocery store shelves), it’s plain that the March Hare’s iconic madness is more justified this year than it was in Lewis Carroll’s time.
You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.
Tired of ice, outside, here are two reflections on ice—inside—from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:
The Americans are a funny lot; they drink whiskey to keep them warm; then they put some ice in it to make it cool; they put some sugar in it to make it sweet, and then they put a slice of lemon in it to make it sour. Then they say “here’s to you” and drink it themselves. B.N. Chakravarty
For each glass, liberally large, the basic ingredients begin with ice cubes in a shaker and three or four drops of Angostura bitters on the ice cubes. Add several twisted lemon peels to the shaker, then a bottle-top of dry vermouth, a bottle-top of Scotch, and multiply the resultant liquid content by five with gin, preferably Bombay Sapphire. Add more gin if you think it is too bland... I have been told, but have no personal proof that it is true, that three of these taken in the course of an evening make it possible to fly from New York to Paris without an airplane. Isaac Stern
Gary
March, 2022
PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Cynthia Bertelsen), thanks, and keep them coming!
PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.
— the new sites —
Adoration of the Pine Nut, The
(The Botanist in the Kitchen waxes scientifically-rhapsodic about pignoli)
Archaeobotanical Evidence Reveals the Origins of Bread 14,400 Years Ago in Northeastern Jordan
(Lara Gonzalez Carretero’s 2018 presentation to the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America)
Barley Malt and Ale in the Neolithic
(Merryn Dineley’s 1999 paper on brewing methods revealed by archaeological evidence)
(a 21 page overview by Puran Singh Bisht)
(PDF of C.W. Bamforth’s 2004 book)
(Brad Thompson Parsons writes, in Punch, about Italy’s famous bitter aperitif)
English Muffin Is Not English at All, The
(Anna Goldfarb’s tells the story of Samuel Bath Thomas’s invention—in New York City—for The Kitchen)
(a collection of articles, with book recommendations on related topics)
Guide to Different Types of Wheat Flour, A
(Danilo Alfaro sifts the wheat from the chaff for The Spruce Eats; many links, at the bottom of the page, to more flour information)
Home Cook’s Guide to Onions, A
(supplied by Gelson’s Markets, a California supermarket chain)
How a 400-Year-Old Cheese Got Its Groove Back
(Richard Collett’s GastroObserver article about nettle-wrapped Cornish Yarg)
How Black Pepper Won Europe From a Tastier Pepper
(Sarah Laskow’s Gastro Observer article about Piper longum, Long Pepper)
How the Refrigerator Became an Agent of Climate Catastrophe
(David Owens’ New Yorker article is hot stuff)
It’s Official: Americans Are Floating in a Pool of Ranch Dressing
(April Fulton, on the origins of ranch dressing; a report from NPR’s The Salt)
(hallucinogenic honey can be made from the nectar of certain Turkish and Nepalese rhododendron flowers, and it’s expensive; article in Gastro Observer)
(Jan Whitaker’s blog, Restaurant-ing Through History, looks at the roots of a recent trend)
(links to vast collections of digitized books)
Party Like a Sumerian: Reinterpreting the ‘Sceptres’ from the Maikop Kurgan
(article, by Viktor Trifonov, Denis Petrov and Larisa Savelieva—in Antiquity—about ancient drinking “straws” used for communal beer-drinking)
(H.D. Miller, at An Eccentric Culinary History, cuts through the layers of myth that cling like cold mozzarella to pizza-box cardboard)
Psychedelic-Laced Beer May Have Helped This Ancient South American Empire Rule
(Ashley Strickland’s CNN report about archaeological evidence of beer brewed with a drug similar to tryptamine DMT)
Recipe: Pastitsio, Greece’s Beloved Baked Pasta
(Carolina Dorito dishes on baked pasta dishes from all around the Mediterranean—not just Greece—for Culinary Backstreets)
Sweetwater, Mountain Springs, and Great Lakes: A Hydro-geography of Beer Brands
(water is key to brewing, obviously, and this paper by Jay D. Gatrell, David J. Nemeth and Charles D. Yeager explores the topic)
This Ancient Brew Has Retro Appeal in South Korea
(Chang W. Lee and Mike Ives discuss “makgeolli, a cloudy Korean rice wine” for The New York Times)
— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —
10 Lessons We’ve Learned About Eating Well
Diary of a Book Launch: An Insider Peek from Idea to Publication
Did Eating Meat Really Make Us Human?
Down the Rabbit Hole: Wandering through an Amazing Maze of Links
Food and Men in Cinema: an Exploration of Gender in Blockbuster Movies
How To Write An Elevator Pitch For Your Book
Petits Propos Culinaires, an Oft-Overlooked and Unobtainable Tool Now Available in Digital
Q&A: Deb Perelman on 16 Years at Smitten Kitchen
Secret Lives of Kitchen Appliances, The
Undersung Trailblazer of Indian Cooking, An
— another blog —
— podcasts, etcetera —
Meat & Three: A Culinary Book Club
This Tiktok Creator Makes the Recipes She Finds on Gravestones
— changed URL —
— that’s all for now —
Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:
As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.
Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.
Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:
The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)
The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier
Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Write a Great Book
The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...
...for the moment, anyway.
______________
The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #257 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.
Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.
January 15, 2022
Food Sites for February 2022
It’s practically February; we should just forget about sharing cocktails in the garden.
The month of February is so unrelentingly depressing that ancient calendar-makers tried to make up for it by making it as short as possible. They also stuck a holiday—right in the middle—to generate some sort of heat. It's intended to throw a virtual log on the fire, since the February sun is an aloof, distant, and fickle partner at best.
There are a few (not altogether unforeseen) effects of all that calendar tampering: Valentine’s Day acts like Viagra for the greeting-card, gift-boxed-chocolate, and cut-flower industries.
You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.
In the spirit of the up-coming holiday, a few excerpts from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:
In the nineteenth century, it was traditional to serve three courses of asparagus—thought to be a powerful aphrodisiac—to a French groom on the night before the wedding. The modern French gentleman has discarded the noble asparagus for the more romantic passion prompter—Champagne. Sharon Tyler Herbst
The truffle is not a positive aphrodisiac, but it can upon occasion make women tenderer and men more apt to love. Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin
A number of rare or newly experienced foods have been claimed to be aphrodisiacs. At one time this quality was even ascribed to the tomato. Reflect on that when you are next preparing the family salad. Jane Grigson
Absinthe makes the tart grow fonder. Variously attributed to Ernest Dowson, Christina Rossetti, and Oscar Wilde
Gary
February, 2022
PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Fabio Parasecoli), thanks, and keep them coming!
PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.
— the new sites —
All About Chianti: The Lifestyle, the Region, and the Wine
(Jennifer Simonson’s discusses the classic Tuscan wine for VINEPAIR)
Emerging Science Conflicts with Traditional Views of Taste and Smell
(Dwight Furrow’s Edible Arts article examines the case for whether or not whether “smell and taste have a cognitive dimension;” it’s part of his continuing effort to determine if wine and food can be considered forms of art)
Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Garum
(Rafael Tonon’s Eater article about ancient Rome’s famous fermented fish sauce)
For Some Whiskey Distilleries, Malting Is an Ancient Process Worth the Effort
(Susannah Skiver Barton’s VINEPAIR article on the revival of old-school methods—flooring—to produce malt)
From Bengal to Manipur, This Is the Story of the Ubiquitous Dried Fish
(Priyadarshini Chatterjee explains, at Zeezest.com, that dried fish is much more than Bombay Duck)
(report on evidence of beer brewing, in Israel, as early as 5,200 BCE; published in the Journal of Anthropological Archaeology)
Great American Chestnut Tree Revival, The
(Shea Swenson’s Modern Farmer article on recent attempts to undo the effect of a blight that killed almost all the chestnut trees in the US)
History of Beer and Brewing, A
(PDF of Ian S. Hornsley’s rare 2003 book)
How the Potato Chip Took Over America
(Brandon Tensley revisits some origin stories for Smithsonian)
(Flora Tsapovsky writes, in Tablet, about the reasons why this cabbage relative is suddenly popular in Israel)
Types of Potatoes: Ultimate Guide to Different Kinds of Potatoes and Their Uses
(another informative page from Leafy Place)
What’s So Special About Monk-Made Food?
(Alex Mayyasi, on the appeal of “beer, cheesecake, and ferments made at convents and temples,” for Gastro Obscura)
— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —
An Ex-Drinker’s Search for a Sober Buzz
Argentine Wheat Hides a History of Native Genocide
Being Avant-Garde Does Not Require Being a Pompous Ass
Can “Distraction-Free” Devices Change the Way We Write?
Eye of the Beer Holder: Beer Label Design Trends to Watch
Gastro Obscura’s Favorite Cookbook Stories of 2021
How the Pandemic Knocked Chefs Off Their Pedestal
Kiki or Bouba: What Is the Shape of Your Taste?
Mayukh Sen on Writing about Food—With Feeling
Retirement Tips from World-Famous Authors to Live Happily Ever After
What We Talk About When We Talk About Food
— another blog —
— podcasts, etcetera —
How Did Sweetness Become Taboo in Drinks?
Library of Congress Acquires Kitchen Sisters’ Audio Archive
— that’s all for now —
Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:
As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.
Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.
Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:
The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)
The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier
Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Write a Great Book
The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...
...for the moment, anyway.
______________
The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #256 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.
Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.
December 10, 2021
Food Sites for January 2022

Two images that define the departing year:
a shot and shots (how many of us got by),
and a mask, hanging near the front door
(for when we needed to get out)
.
The nineteen-twenties roared with jazzy excitement—but, so far, the twenty-twenties have been one humongous disappointment. Please accept our apologies for grossly understating the gravity of the situation. Who knows? Maybe twenty-twenty-two will bring some better news—or, at least, cease making the news a source of agita-induced dypepsia.
For the new year, let’s raise a nineteen-twenties-style glass—or three—to the possibility of better news. Maybe some old-fashioned optimism‑because what could be more old-fashioned, right?
You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.
Keeping the twenties in mind, we’ve shuffled through the liquor cabinet for a few excerpts from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:
Eat drink and be merry, for tomorrow they may make it illegal. Anonymous
A prohibitionist is the sort of man one wouldn’t care to drink with—even if he drank. H.L. Mencken
Everyone must believe in something, I believe I’ll have another drink. WC Fields
Gary
January, 2022
PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Krishnendu Ray), thanks, and keep them coming!
PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.
— the new sites —
Brief History of Cheesy Pasta, A
(Massimo Montanari’s account at Literary Hub)
(Elizabeth Kolbert’s article, in The New Yorker, on altering the way plants use photosynthesis to produce more food for us)
(berries, citrus fruits, drupes, pomes, and melons; an illustrated guide from Leafy Place)
(Frank Maixner, et. al., report—in Current Biology—on archaeological evidence obtained from ancient feces)
Hidden, Magnificent History of Chop Suey, The
(Miranda Brown’ tells the sordid story at Gastro Obscura)
Perfect Storm, A: The Chocolate, Coffee, and Climate Crises
(Randall Myers discusses the horror of climate-change extinction of some of our favorite things—and what we can do to prevent it—for Quillette)
(Joshua Levine’s Smithsonian article about Roquefort cheese)
Seeing and Tasting: The Evolution of Dessert in French Gastronomy
(Maryann Tebben’s 2015 essay in Gastronomica)
TASTE (law and the senses series)
(aesthetics, philosophy, and anthropology of food; PDF of the 2018 anthology from the University of Westminster Press)
(varieties from around the world; an illustrated guide from Leafy Place)
(“varieties of onions and how to use them;” an illustrated guide from Leafy Place)
Types of Red Berries That Grow on Trees or Shrubs
(an identification guide from Leafy Place)
What Humanity Should Eat to Stay Healthy and Save the Planet
(Gayathri Vaidyanathan’s Nature article about the cost of global sustainability and adequate nutrition)
— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —
10 Massively Inedible Roadside Attractions
“Designing Human-Food Interactions in Space Is Not a Trivial Task.”
How Marcella Hazan Became a Legend of Italian Cooking
How Things Are Changing for Women in the Kitchen
It’s Time to Retire the ‘Julia Child Of’ Trope
Millions of Followers? For Book Sales, ‘It’s Unreliable.’
Mrs. Goodfellow—Raves from Miss Leslie and Others
Who Owns a Recipe? A Plagiarism Claim Has Cookbook Authors Asking.
Wisdom about Wine and Food Pairing
World’s Vast Networks of Underground Fungi to Be Mapped for First Time
— another blog —
— podcasts, etcetera —
— that’s all for now —
Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:
As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.
Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.
Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:
The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)
The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(
Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier
Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Write a Great Book
The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...
...for the moment, anyway.
______________
The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #255 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.
Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.
November 12, 2021
Food Sites for December 2021
Preserved for winter.
November delivered our first killing frost.
There was a time, not that long ago, in our collective memory, when gardens died each year—and, if we didn’t “put food by”—we would too. It wasn’t a joke when people alluded to “the dead of winter.” But countless generations filled root cellars [speaking of which, make sure to check out The Botanist in the Root Cellar, below] with carrots and turnips and beets and potatoes—plus jars (or barrels) of all sorts of pickled produce. Their attics held strings of dried fruits, mushrooms, and herbs. Sometimes, they’d bury apples, layered with straw, the longest-keeping varieties at the bottom, to be exhumed through the dark months of the year.
By the end of winter everyone would be mighty tired of preserved food. But Spring would always come (at least for those who had prudently prepared before the Winter) and jaded appetites rediscovered fresh food. Today, a quick trip to the supermarket allows us to eat anything we want, anytime we want, and seasons have been rendered irrelevant. Of course, all of that out-of-season produce—shipped from far-away places—comes with a price, the biggest of which is flavor. Perhaps a winter of pickles was not too much to pay for the joy of encountering the first ripe in-season strawberry of Spring?
We haven’t published anything new this month—shocking, right?—but we have begun writing a sort of nostalgic novella. Tentatively titled Beer Taste (on a Champagne Budget), it’s a little like The Wonder Years, but with food—and recipes.
You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and . Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.
We’ve dug into the pantry for a few excerpts from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:
The jelly—the jam and the marmalade,
And the cherry-and quince-“preserves” she made!
And the sweet-sour pickles of peach and pear,
With cinnamon in ‘em, and all things rare!
And the more we ate was the more to spare,
Out to old Aunt Mary’s! Ah! James Whitcomb Riley
The rule is, jam to-morrow and jam yesterday—but never jam today. Lewis Carroll
Marmalade in the morning has the same effect on taste buds that a cold shower has on the body. Jeanine Larmoth
In the last analysis, a pickle is a cucumber with experience. Irena Chalmers
Gary
December, 2021
PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Sheila Ratcliffe), thanks, and keep them coming!
PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.
— the new sites —
(New York Magazine article, by Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite, on meatless options in the Big Apple)
Botanist in the Root Cellar, The
(the taxonomy of all the foods we casually refer to as “roots”)
(dedicated to preserving the culture & history of beer, they don’t have a physical location yet—but the museum has coordinated exhibits elsewhere and has even developed a few beers of its own)
Culinary Detectives Try to Recover the Formula for a Deliciously Fishy Roman Condiment
(Taras Grescoe’s article, in Smithsonian, about trying to recreate the long-lost garum sociorum)
Female Cooks Who Shaped French Cuisine, The
(Rachel E. Black’s essay about women in the celebrated kitchens of Lyon, in Zocalo; an excerpt from Cheffes de Cuisine: Women and Work in the Professional French Kitchen)
(“the think tank for food;” articles about responsible food systems, sustainability, etc.)
From Pythagorean to Pescatarian; The Evolution of Vegetarianism
(Tori Avey’s account, fresh from The History Kitchen)
Fry Bread Is Beloved, but Also Divisive
(Kevin Noble Maillard’ New York Times article on a Native American foodstuff with a history that shares origins that are similar to that of “soul food”)
(Ian Parker’s New Yorker exposé of why things are not always what they seem—or claim to be)
How Korean Cuisine Got Huge in America (and Why It Took So Long)
(John Surico gets an answer from Matt Rodbard—one of the authors of Koreatown: A Cookbook—for Serious Eats)
(Dawn MacKeen on the latest medical opinion, in The New York Times)
(Nathan Steinmeyer’s report, in Bible History Daily, on the excavation of a Byzantine winery at Tel Yavne, in Israel)
(Jonathan Laden’s report on archaeological work in Israel; in Bible History Daily)
(The Botanist in the Kitchen’s taxonomic table of food plants grouped by their botanical relationships)
People All Over the World Love Adobo—But What Is It?
(whether it’s from Spain, Mexico, the Philippines, or Puerto Rico, Bettina Makalintal has the answer at Bon Appetit)
Search for the Competitive Edge: A History of Dietary Fads and Supplements
(Louis Grivetti’s 1997 paper in The Journal of Nutrition)
True Story of Pizza Margherita: a Food Fit for a Queen, The
(Francine Segan traces the ancient roots of pizza for La Cucina Italiana)
Untold Story of Sushi in America, The
(Daniel Fromson’s New York Times article about the connection between sushi and the Rev. Sun Myung Moon)
(Amiel Stanek‘s article, in Bon Appétit, offers a quick answer)
World War Wednesday: Save a Loaf a Week
(Sarah Wassberg Johnson’s blog, The Food Historian, looks at food rationing campaigns during World War I)
— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —
Building Blocks: Chapulines, a Bug’s Culinary Life in Oaxaca
Definitive History of Dorie Greenspan’s Chocolate Chip Cookies, The
Does Wine Have a Subject Matter?
Free Man of Color Whose Invention Revolutionized the Sugar Industry, The
How a Librarian and a Food Historian Rediscovered the Recipes of Moorish Spain
How Capicola Became Gabagool: The Italian New Jersey Accent, Explained
How Much Syrup Can a Doughnut Leak?
How to Cook from a Historical Recipe
How to Make Twitter a Better Place—With Emotional Food Memories
How to Start a Writing Podcast
In Shanghai, Teahouses Offer Both Community and Solitude
Laurie Colwin’s Recipe for Being Yourself in the Kitchen
London Chef Elizabeth Haigh’s Cookbook Withdrawn After Plagiarism Allegations
Return of the American Rail Dining Car, The
Rise and Rise of Mother Gin, The
Small Cautionary Tale about Cookbooks and Authenticity, A
Traveling the World for Recipes, but Always Looking for Home
Two Mustard Seeds, Lime-Sized Balls of Tamarind, and Hand Smells
Why Cookbook Stores Are the Antidote We Need Right Now
— more blogs —
— podcasts, etcetera —
Art of Eating, The (Calhum Trailer Final)
Barbara Haber: The Lioness at the Library
Buried Treasure: Weeds, Seeds, and Zombies
Conversation with Melissa Clark, A
“Every Time You Make A Recipe, You Take A Risk,” An Interview With David Sutton
How We Find Our Writer’s Voice, with Dianne Jacob
JULIA | Official Trailer (2021)
New Book Brings Foodies on a Global Culinary Adventure
Rise and Folly of the Refugee Cookbook, The
Taste of Louisiana, A: Mainstreaming Blackness Through Food in The Princess and the Frog
Tip of the Tongue 100: 100th Episode Special with Ken Albala
Why the Recession Helped the Donut
Why You Should Eat Oysters at Home (And How to Shuck Them!)
Women Left Out of Cocktail History, The
— changed URL —
— that’s all for now —
Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:
As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.
Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.
Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:
The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)
The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)
Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier
Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)
How to Write a Great Book
The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)
Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...
...for the moment, anyway.
______________
The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #254 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.
Copyright ©2021 by Gary Allen.


