Gary Allen's Blog, page 5

May 13, 2022

Food Sites for June 2022

  

Ramps and fiddleheads...

 

...seasonal treats to harvest when morels—or trout—successfully elude our efforts to bring them to the table. If only they’d all cooperate. We imagine a dinner of morels & fiddleheads, with trout in ramp butter. Alas, Spring’s larder is as fickle as its weather. So we freeze ramp butter and dry morels for another time, another dinner, perhaps in the dead of Winter—when Spring is only a memory or a dream.

 

You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing. 

 

We’ve continued posting our Substack newsletter. “Another Little Taste...” includes a sample from Ephemera; “You’ve Been Served...” features an essay from Tabula Rasa, Baby: (Not Written in Stone); it’s not really a food book—but, as our gullet is adjacent to our brain pan, there’s plenty of culinary content in it. The Writing Life ...Whatever That Might Be is another Substack post; it’s an excerpt from How to Write a Great Book (which is not, at all, about food). As usual, a free subscription automatically delivers these things to your virtual mailbox—and no one will be the wiser (including you).

 

A couple of foraged comments, from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:


A white truffle, which elsewhere might sell for hundreds of dollars, seemed easier to come by than something fresh and green. What could be got from the woods was free and amounted to a diurnal dining diary that everyone kept in their heads. May was wild asparagus, arugula, and artichokes. June was wild lettuce and stinging nettles. July was cherries and wild strawberries. August was forest berries. September was porcini. Bill Buford


 


My fare is really sumptuous this evening; buffaloe’s humps, tongues and marrowbones, fine trout parched meal pepper and salt, and a good appetite; the last is not considered the least of the luxuries. Journals of Lewis and Clark, Thursday, June 13, 1805


Gary
June 2022

 

PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Krishnendu Ray), thanks, and keep them coming!

 

PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.

 

 

— the new sites —

 

Ancient Beer is Craft’s New Frontier

(Sara Toth Stub’s Sapiens article on collaborations between archaeologists and brewmasters)

 

Ancient Indigenous Oyster Fishing Practices Could Save Coastal Ecosystems, Study Finds

(Jennifer Walter’s Inverse article on oysters and water quality)

 

Armenia’s Culinary History Hides in a Museum’s Manuscripts

(Rafael Tonon reports, for Gastro Obscura, on ten manuscripts in the Mesrop Mashtots Institute of Ancient Manuscripts)

 

Battle to Invent the Automatic Rice Cooker, The

(Anne Ewbank chronicles the triumph of Japanese technology for Gastro Obscura)

 

Chemical Traces in Ancient West African Pots Show a Diet Rich in Plants

(Julie Dunne, in Phys Org, on recent archaeological findings from Nigeria)

 

Chinese Food Is a Celebration of Time and Place

(Clarissa Wei weighs in, at Epicurious, on authenticity vs. adaptability in Chinese cuisine)

 

Comprehensive History of Beer Brewing, A

(Franz Meussdoerffer’s chapter of 2009’s Handbook of Brewing: Processes, Technology, Markets)

 

Dutch Institute of Food & Design, The

(international group that publishes—among other things—Magazine F, each issue of which is devoted to a single ingredient)

 

Experiencing the Ancient Flavors of Recipes from the Bible

(Ronit Vered’s article in Haaretz—requires subscription)

 

How to Eat Like an Anglo-Saxon King

(Diana Hubbell debunks a few culinary myths for Gastro Obscura)

 

Inside Look at Judith Jones’ First Notes for Julia Child, An

(an excerpt from Helen Lefkowitz Horowitz’ Warming Up Julia Child: The Remarkable Figures Who Shaped a Legend that tells the story of the early days of editing Mastering the Art of French Cooking)

 

It’s a Small Aisle After All

(99 Percent Invisible takes on the grocery industry’s use of “ethnic aisles”)

 

(“Ah-BEETS,” you say? Jan Whitaker’s Restaurant-ing Through History site takes on pizza’s curious local monikers in Connecticut)

 

Precolonial First Nations Oyster Fisheries Sustained Millennia of Intense Harvests, Study Shows

(Donna Lu’s article, in The Guardian, on the scale and methodology of indigenous oyster culture)

 

What is a Pudding?

(British food: A History has an answer; no surprise, the word had different meanings on the opposite shores of the Atlantic)

 

 

— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —

 

Advice for Future Food Writers

 

AI Sommelier Generates Wine Reviews without Ever Opening a Bottle

 

Art of Take-out, The


Aunty Sylvie’s Sponge: Foodmaking, Cookbooks and Nostalgia

 

Can This Cultivated Meat Startup Make Lion Meat a Thing?

 

Collapse of the Industrial Livestock Industry is Coming, The

 

Feminine Ending/Masculine Ending

 

High Art of Food Literature, The. Seriously?

 

How To Be Food Famous!

 

How to Organize, Clean, and Maintain Cookbooks

 

Just Reject Me

 

We Invented the Cow 10,000 Years Ago

 

Why are Many Modern Recipes a Challenge?

 

Why You Should Learn “Winespeak”

 

 

— podcasts, etcetera —

 

Comfort Foods for a Weary World

 

Culinary Media Network

 

How Black Culture Helped Define American Cuisine

 

Nopalitos: Taming the Prickly Pear Cactus

 

Pass the Chipotle Podcast

 

 

— that’s all for now —

 

Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:

 

As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.

 

Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.

 

Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:

 

The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)

 

The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Human Cuisine
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier

(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

How to Write a Great Book

(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Cenotaphs
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Tabula Rasa, Baby: (Not Written in Stone)
(Paper)
(Kindle)


 


 

 

Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...

 

...for the moment, anyway.

 

______________

 

The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #260 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.

 

Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.


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Published on May 13, 2022 08:33

April 15, 2022

Food Sites for May 2022

  


Drying morels wantonly ejecting their spores all over our table.

 

May is, indeed a lusty, x-rated kind of month. Shameless birds sing their version of the NY Review of Books personal ads, hours before dawn, and flowers spew their pollen everywhere, with nary a blush. Even mushrooms want to get into the “spreading-the-seed” act.

 

You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing. 

 

We’ve also started a new way to distribute our other writing: a Substack newsletter. The first post is entitled “Not Everything is about Food History.” A free subscription delivers titillating samples of our non-food-history scribbles to your virtual mailbox (there are two more posts, already)—in the proverbial plain brown wrapper—so no one need know about your furtive reading habits. Like Tom Lehrer’s old dope peddler, we “know full well that today’s young innocent faces will be tomorrow’s clientele.” 


Did you enjoy being described as a “young innocent face”? 

 

You’re welcome.

 

Some perspective, and advice, from On the Table’s culinary quote collection

 


I hate people who are not serious about meals. It is so shallow of them. Oscar Wilde


Seize the moment. Remember all those women on the ‘Titanic’ who waved off the dessert cart. Erma Bombeck


Many people claim coffee inspires them, but, as everybody knows, coffee only makes boring people even more boring. Honoré de Balzac


Food writing shouldn’t be precious, pretentious, or condescending. Just because you know what confit means doesn’t make you a better person. Adam Roberts


Gary
May, 2022

 

PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Bob DelGrosso), thanks, and keep them coming!

 

PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.

 

 

— the new sites —


All the Tea (Not) in China: The Story of How India Became a Tea-Drinking Nation
(Alex Downs’ article in Serious Eats)

 

Biblical Kings Drank Vanilla-Flavored Wine

(Nathan Steinmeyer, in Bible History Daily, on archaeological evidence of nearly three-thousend-year-old spice trade)

 

Hidden History of the Nutmeg Island That Was Traded for Manhattan, The

(Mark Hay’s Gastro Obscura article on spice trade and world politics—and how New Amsterdam became New York)

 

How Booze Is Used in the Making of Cheese

(Pamela Vachon’s article on washing and marinating cheeses with wine, beer, or spirits to develop new flavors)

 

It’s More Than Tacos: Inside LA’s First Mexican Food Museum

(Eva Recinos visits LA Plaza Cocina for The Guardian)

 

Malt Beverage

(technical article from Food and Agricultural History)

 

Olive Oil Times

(international news and articles about, and recipes for, olive oil)

 

Rome’s New Museum Dedicated to Cooking

(the BBC’s Ronan O’Connell tours the Museo della Cucina)

 

Unsung Women of the Betty Crocker Test Kitchens, The

(Anne Ewbank’s Gastro Obscura article, based on Susan Marks’ book, Finding Betty Crocker: The Secret Life of America’s First Lady of Food)

 

 

— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —

 

10 Tips For Writers From Douglas Adams

 

12 Most Unforgettable Descriptions of Food in Literature, The

 

Are We Entering the Post-Natural Wine Era?

 

Boeuf Neanderthal!

 

Cooking with Dorothy Sayers

 

Curse of an Irish Cook, The

 

De-Bunking the Industry Bias Behind Plant-Based Meat

 

Eat Like a Medieval Saint With Her Recipe for “Cookies of Joy”

 

Haven’t We Told Julia Child’s Story Enough?

 

How to Write Award-Winning Cookbooks

 

Is Wine Tasting Nonsense?

 

Joy of Cooking Blasphemous Fusion Food, The

 

Mixologist Has Nine Lives, The

 

This Story Stinks

 

What Humanity Should Eat to Stay Healthy and Save the Planet

 

 

— podcasts, etcetera —

 

Stirring the Pot

 

Unreserved Wine Talk Podcast with Natalie MacLean, The

 

Women and Alcohol: History, Myths, and Trailblazers

 

 

— that’s all for now —

 

Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:

As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.

 

Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.

 

Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:

 

The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)

 

The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Human Cuisine
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier

(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

How to Write a Great Book

(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Cenotaphs
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...

 

...for the moment, anyway.

 

______________

 

The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #259 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.

 

Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.


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Published on April 15, 2022 09:26

March 19, 2022

Food Sites for April 2022

  


Chef Julius, inventor of Caesar Salad.

 

As first recorded by Apicius, the earliest written record of the eponymous romaine salad made generous use of egg, hard cheese from the provinces, lemon, good olive oil, and garum—beaten like a galley slave—then lavished upon lactucae. The leaves untimely ripped, of course (as was the photo, from the internet). 

 

It is almost April First, and no better time than now to disseminate some food fakelore.

 

You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.

 

More foolishness from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:

 


An intelligent man is sometimes forced to be drunk to spend time with his fools. Ernest Hemingway


Drinking makes such fools of people, and people are such fools to begin with that it's compounding a felony. Robert Benchley


Some people have a foolish way of not minding, or of pretending not to mind, what they eat. For my part, I mind my belly very studiously and very carefully; for I look upon it that he who does not mind his belly will hardly mind anything else. Samuel Johnson


Gary
April, 2022

 

PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Dianne Jacob), thanks, and keep them coming!

 

PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.

 

 

— the new sites —

 

17 Delicious Types of Plums

(descriptions with photos, plus a short introduction to plum history)


Betty Crocker’s Cosmopolitan Kitchens

(Annie Ewbank’s Gastro Obscura interview with Susan Marks—author of Finding Betty Crocker: The Secret Life of America's First Lady of Food)

 

ckbk

(subscription-based searchable access to vast number of recipes, cookbooks, food reference books, author bios, and feature articles)

 

Food History and Gastronomic Traditions of Beans in Italy

(Giandomenico Corrado’s article in the Journal of Ethnic Foods)

 

Hymn of Ninkasi, The

(Kevin O’Briant’s 2017 article in Beyond Beer Magazine)

 

J. Kenji López-Alt Says You’re Cooking Just Fine

(Helen Rosner’s New Yorker interview)

 

Man Who Discovered Umami, The

(Veronique Greenwood’s article about Kikunae Ikeda, and the perception of taste, in BBC Future)

 

Medieval Influencer Who Convinced the World to Drink Tea, The—Not Eat It

(Miranda Brown’s Gastro Obscura article about Lu Yu—”the world’s greatest tea influencer”)

 

Necco Wafers: The Return of an American Candy Classic

(Aimee Tucker’s New England Today article about a candy that was in the pockets of many Civil War soldiers)

 

Peeling Onions, Layer by Layer

(Yasmin Amin’s paper on the use of two alliums in Islamic cookery; included in Insatiable Appetite: Food as Cultural Signifier in the Middle East and Beyond)

 

Recipe From a Talented Chef Enslaved by a Founding Father, A

(Natasha Frost’s Gastro Observer article about James Hemings, the cook in Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello kitchen)

 

Rise and Fall of Gruit, The

(Susan Verberg’s 2018 paper on the historical differences between beers made with hops and other herbs)

 

What Is the Arabesque Kitchen?

(N.A. Mansour’s Eater review of The Arabesque Table, discusses multiple varieties of Arabic cuisine)

 

What Makes Oaxacan Food Oaxacan?

(Bricia Lopez’s Eater piece on something that’s too complex to be covered by one word)

 

 

— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —

 

8 Tips to Become a Successful Content Writer

 

Anton Ego and the Critical Sense

 

 

“Cultivated Meat is no Silver Bullet” by Carlo Petrini

 

Curious Case of Colonial India’s Breakfast Curries, The

 

Egg Cream

 

Food Writer Dishes on Black Culinary Traditions, A (and Top Spots to Experience Them)

 

History of the Last Time I Ate at a Chinese Buffet, A

 

How Apples Go Bad

 

How I Got My Job: Creating Weeknight Recipe Faves for Top Publications and Writing a Cookbook

 

I’m Common as Muck and Spent £150 in a Michelin Star Restaurant to See If It Was Worth It

 

Is Diet Writing Over?

 

John Locke’s Personal Pancake Recipe: “This Is the Right Way” to Make the Classic Breakfast Treat

 

Meet the Indispensable Bagel Rollers of NYC

 

National Cuisine Is a Useful Illusion

 

Reader Comments for The New York Times’ “Homestyle Spaghetti Carbonara” Recipe

 

Remembering Two Fat Ladies, the Perfect Fat-Positive Cooking Show

 

“The Automat” Is a Guide to the Wonders of Mid-Twentieth-Century Urbanism

 

To Evade Pre-Prohibition Drinking Laws, New Yorkers Created the World’s Worst Sandwich

 

Top 10 Cooks in Fiction

 

 

— podcasts, etcetera —

 

Dave Chang Show, The


Grounds for Revolution: the Stimulating 


Story of How Coffee Shaped the World


Hot Dog Is a Sandwich, A


Joy of Cooking, The (Insects)


Lunch Therapy


New Secret Chicken Recipe, The? 

Animal Cells.


Out to Lunch with Jay Rayner


People Can’t Believe That THIS Is How Cashews Grow


See the True Cost of Your Cheap Chicken


Well-Seasoned Librarian, The: A Conversation About Food, Food Writing and More

When Sitting Bull Came to Dinner

(you’ll need to use this passcode: .p$1t74C [Note that the passcode starts with a period])


 

— changed URL —

 

What We Write About When We Write About Food

 

 

— that’s all for now —

 

Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:


As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.

 

Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.

 

Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:

 

The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)

 

The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Human Cuisine
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier

(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

How to Write a Great Book

(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Cenotaphs
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...

 

...for the moment, anyway.

 

______________

 

The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #258 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.

 

Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.


 •  0 comments  •  flag
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Published on March 19, 2022 06:06

February 11, 2022

Food Sites for March 2022


February was brutal, this year. 

It called for a particularly dark and stormy Dark and Stormy—

à propos for a dark and stormy month. 

(It should have been lime... but I used what I had on hand)


March is fast upon us, and we couldn’t be happier. February brought us an ice storm that left us without heat or light for days on end. Between that, and living our second year with the vagaries of Covid-19 (with inexplicably-odd lacunae on grocery store shelves), it’s plain that the March Hare’s iconic madness is more justified this year than it was in Lewis Carroll’s time.


You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.


Tired of ice, outside, here are two reflections on ice—inside—from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:

 


The Americans are a funny lot; they drink whiskey to keep them warm; then they put some ice in it to make it cool; they put some sugar in it to make it sweet, and then they put a slice of lemon in it to make it sour. Then they say “here’s to you” and drink it themselves. B.N. Chakravarty




For each glass, liberally large, the basic ingredients begin with ice cubes in a shaker and three or four drops of Angostura bitters on the ice cubes. Add several twisted lemon peels to the shaker, then a bottle-top of dry vermouth, a bottle-top of Scotch, and multiply the resultant liquid content by five with gin, preferably Bombay Sapphire. Add more gin if you think it is too bland... I have been told, but have no personal proof that it is true, that three of these taken in the course of an evening make it possible to fly from New York to Paris without an airplane. Isaac Stern


Gary
March, 2022


PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Cynthia Bertelsen), thanks, and keep them coming!


PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.



— the new sites —


Adoration of the Pine Nut, The

(The Botanist in the Kitchen waxes scientifically-rhapsodic about pignoli)


Archaeobotanical Evidence Reveals the Origins of Bread 14,400 Years Ago in Northeastern Jordan

(Lara Gonzalez Carretero’s 2018 presentation to the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America)


Barley Malt and Ale in the Neolithic

(Merryn Dineley’s 1999 paper on brewing methods revealed by archaeological evidence)


Beer

(a 21 page overview by Puran Singh Bisht)


Beer: Health and Nutrition

(PDF of C.W. Bamforth’s 2004 book)


Campari’s Secret History

(Brad Thompson Parsons writes, in Punch, about Italy’s famous bitter aperitif)


English Muffin Is Not English at All, The

(Anna Goldfarb’s tells the story of Samuel Bath Thomas’s invention—in New York City—for The Kitchen)


Food-History.org

(a collection of articles, with book recommendations on related topics)


Guide to Different Types of Wheat Flour, A

(Danilo Alfaro sifts the wheat from the chaff for The Spruce Eats; many links, at the bottom of the page, to more flour information)


Home Cook’s Guide to Onions, A

(supplied by Gelson’s Markets, a California supermarket chain)


How a 400-Year-Old Cheese Got Its Groove Back

(Richard Collett’s GastroObserver article about nettle-wrapped Cornish Yarg)


How Black Pepper Won Europe From a Tastier Pepper

(Sarah Laskow’s Gastro Observer article about Piper longum, Long Pepper)


How the Refrigerator Became an Agent of Climate Catastrophe

(David Owens’ New Yorker article is hot stuff)


It’s Official: Americans Are Floating in a Pool of Ranch Dressing

(April Fulton, on the origins of ranch dressing; a report from NPR’s The Salt)


Mad Honey

(hallucinogenic honey can be made from the nectar of certain Turkish and Nepalese rhododendron flowers, and it’s expensive; article in Gastro Observer)


Native American Restaurants

(Jan Whitaker’s blog, Restaurant-ing Through History, looks at the roots of a recent trend)


Online Historical Cookbooks

(links to vast collections of digitized books)


Party Like a Sumerian: Reinterpreting the ‘Sceptres’ from the Maikop Kurgan

(article, by Viktor Trifonov, Denis Petrov and Larisa Savelieva—in Antiquity—about ancient drinking “straws” used for communal beer-drinking)


Pizza Isn’t Italian

(H.D. Miller, at An Eccentric Culinary History, cuts through the layers of myth that cling like cold mozzarella to pizza-box cardboard)


Psychedelic-Laced Beer May Have Helped This Ancient South American Empire Rule

(Ashley Strickland’s CNN report about archaeological evidence of beer brewed with a drug similar to tryptamine DMT)


Recipe: Pastitsio, Greece’s Beloved Baked Pasta

(Carolina Dorito dishes on baked pasta dishes from all around the Mediterranean—not just Greece—for Culinary Backstreets)


Sweetwater, Mountain Springs, and Great Lakes: A Hydro-geography of Beer Brands

(water is key to brewing, obviously, and this paper by Jay D. Gatrell, David J. Nemeth and Charles D. Yeager explores the topic)


This Ancient Brew Has Retro Appeal in South Korea

(Chang W. Lee and Mike Ives discuss “makgeolli, a cloudy Korean rice wine” for The New York Times)



— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —


10 Lessons We’ve Learned About Eating Well


Diary of a Book Launch: An Insider Peek from Idea to Publication


Diaspora Co.


Did Eating Meat Really Make Us Human?


Down the Rabbit Hole: Wandering through an Amazing Maze of Links


Food and Men in Cinema: an Exploration of Gender in Blockbuster Movies


How To Write An Elevator Pitch For Your Book


Language of Lucky Foods, The


Petits Propos Culinaires, an Oft-Overlooked and Unobtainable Tool Now Available in Digital


Q&A: Deb Perelman on 16 Years at Smitten Kitchen


Secret Lives of Kitchen Appliances, The


Top 1000 Cookbooks


Undersung Trailblazer of Indian Cooking, An


What To Eat?



— another blog —


Burnt My Fingers



— podcasts, etcetera —


Follow the Food 


Meat & Three: A Culinary Book Club


Run the Dish!


This Tiktok Creator Makes the Recipes She Finds on Gravestones


What’s Burning



— changed URL —


Food That Built America, The



— that’s all for now —


Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:


As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.


Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.


Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:


The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)


The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Human Cuisine
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier

(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)


How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating

(Paper)
(Kindle)


How to Write a Great Book

(Paper)
(Kindle)


The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Cenotaphs
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...


...for the moment, anyway.


______________


The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #257 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.


Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.


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Published on February 11, 2022 11:46

January 15, 2022

Food Sites for February 2022

 



It’s practically February; we should just forget about sharing cocktails in the garden.


The month of February is so unrelentingly depressing that ancient calendar-makers tried to make up for it by making it as short as possible. They also stuck a holiday—right in the middle—to generate some sort of heat. It's intended to throw a virtual log on the fire, since the February sun is an aloof, distant, and fickle partner at best. 


There are a few (not altogether unforeseen) effects of all that calendar tampering: Valentine’s Day acts like Viagra for the greeting-card, gift-boxed-chocolate, and cut-flower industries.


You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.


In the spirit of the up-coming holiday, a few excerpts from On the Table’s culinary quote collection



In the nineteenth century, it was traditional to serve three courses of asparagus—thought to be a powerful aphrodisiac—to a French groom on the night before the wedding. The modern French gentleman has discarded the noble asparagus for the more romantic passion prompter—Champagne. Sharon Tyler Herbst




The truffle is not a positive aphrodisiac, but it can upon occasion make women tenderer and men more apt to love. Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin




A number of rare or newly experienced foods have been claimed to be aphrodisiacs. At one time this quality was even ascribed to the tomato. Reflect on that when you are next preparing the family salad. Jane Grigson




Absinthe makes the tart grow fonder. Variously attributed to Ernest Dowson, Christina Rossetti, and Oscar Wilde


Gary
February, 2022


PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Fabio Parasecoli), thanks, and keep them coming!


PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.



— the new sites —


All About Chianti: The Lifestyle, the Region, and the Wine

(Jennifer Simonson’s discusses the classic Tuscan wine for VINEPAIR)


Emerging Science Conflicts with Traditional Views of Taste and Smell

(Dwight Furrow’s Edible Arts article examines the case for whether or not whether “smell and taste have a cognitive dimension;” it’s part of his continuing effort to determine if wine and food can be considered forms of art)


Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Garum

(Rafael Tonon’s Eater article about ancient Rome’s famous fermented fish sauce)


For Some Whiskey Distilleries, Malting Is an Ancient Process Worth the Effort

(Susannah Skiver Barton’s VINEPAIR article on the revival of old-school methods—flooring—to produce malt)


From Bengal to Manipur, This Is the Story of the Ubiquitous Dried Fish

(Priyadarshini Chatterjee explains, at Zeezest.com, that dried fish is much more than Bombay Duck)


From Hangovers to Hierarchies: Beer Production and Use During the Chalcolithic period of the Southern Levant—New evidence from Tel Tsaf and Peqi‘in Cave

(report on evidence of beer brewing, in Israel, as early as 5,200 BCE; published in the Journal of Anthropological Archaeology)


Great American Chestnut Tree Revival, The 

(Shea Swenson’s Modern Farmer article on recent attempts to undo the effect of a blight that killed almost all the chestnut trees in the US)


History of Beer and Brewing, A

(PDF of Ian S. Hornsley’s rare 2003 book)


How the Potato Chip Took Over America

(Brandon Tensley revisits some origin stories for Smithsonian)


Kohlrabi’s Time to Shine

(Flora Tsapovsky writes, in Tablet, about the reasons why this cabbage relative is suddenly popular in Israel)


Types of Potatoes: Ultimate Guide to Different Kinds of Potatoes and Their Uses

(another informative page from Leafy Place)


What’s So Special About Monk-Made Food?

(Alex Mayyasi, on the appeal of “beer, cheesecake, and ferments made at convents and temples,” for Gastro Obscura)



— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —


An Ex-Drinker’s Search for a Sober Buzz


Argentine Wheat Hides a History of Native Genocide


Being Avant-Garde Does Not Require Being a Pompous Ass


Can “Distraction-Free” Devices Change the Way We Write?


Cook More, Talk Less


Cooking with Mary Shelley


Eye of the Beer Holder: Beer Label Design Trends to Watch


Gastro Obscura’s Favorite Cookbook Stories of 2021


Gift of Hunger, The


How the Pandemic Knocked Chefs Off Their Pedestal


Kiki or Bouba: What Is the Shape of Your Taste?


Mayukh Sen on Writing about Food—With Feeling


(Other) French Chef, The


Retirement Tips from World-Famous Authors to Live Happily Ever After


What Does It Mean to Read Great Food Writing in a Pandemic?

What We Talk About When We Talk About Food



— another blog —


Mid-century Menu



— podcasts, etcetera —


Green Eggs and Dan


How Did Sweetness Become Taboo in Drinks?


Kitchen Counter, The


Library of Congress Acquires Kitchen Sisters’ Audio Archive


Local Mouthful



— that’s all for now —


Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:


As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.


Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.


Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:


The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)


The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Human Cuisine
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier

(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)


How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating

(Paper)
(Kindle)


How to Write a Great Book

(Paper)
(Kindle)


The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Cenotaphs
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...


...for the moment, anyway.


______________


The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #256 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.


Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.


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Published on January 15, 2022 06:57

December 10, 2021

Food Sites for January 2022

 



Two images that define the departing year:
a shot and shots (how many of us got by),
and a mask, hanging near the front door
(for when we needed to get out)
.


The nineteen-twenties roared with jazzy excitement—but, so far, the twenty-twenties have been one humongous disappointment. Please accept our apologies for grossly understating the gravity of the situation. Who knows? Maybe twenty-twenty-two will bring some better news—or, at least, cease making the news a source of agita-induced dypepsia.


For the new year, let’s raise a nineteen-twenties-style glass—or three—to the possibility of better news. Maybe some old-fashioned optimism‑because what could be more old-fashioned, right?


You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.


Keeping the twenties in mind, we’ve shuffled through the liquor cabinet for a few excerpts from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:



Eat drink and be merry, for tomorrow they may make it illegal. Anonymous




A prohibitionist is the sort of man one wouldn’t care to drink with—even if he drank. H.L. Mencken




Everyone must believe in something, I believe I’ll have another drink. WC Fields


Gary
January, 2022


PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Krishnendu Ray), thanks, and keep them coming!


PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.



— the new sites —


Brief History of Cheesy Pasta, A

(Massimo Montanari’s account at Literary Hub)


Creating a Better Leaf

(Elizabeth Kolbert’s article, in The New Yorker, on altering the way plants use photosynthesis to produce more food for us)


Green Fruits

(berries, citrus fruits, drupes, pomes, and melons; an illustrated guide from Leafy Place)


Hallstatt Miners Consumed Blue Cheese and Beer During the Iron Age and Retained a Non-Westernized Gut Microbiome Until the Baroque Period

(Frank Maixner, et. al., report—in Current Biology—on archaeological evidence obtained from ancient feces)


Hidden, Magnificent History of Chop Suey, The

(Miranda Brown’ tells the sordid story at Gastro Obscura)


Perfect Storm, A: The Chocolate, Coffee, and Climate Crises

(Randall Myers discusses the horror of climate-change extinction of some of our favorite things—and what we can do to prevent it—for Quillette)


Reign of Terroir

(Joshua Levine’s Smithsonian article about Roquefort cheese)


Seeing and Tasting: The Evolution of Dessert in French Gastronomy

(Maryann Tebben’s 2015 essay in Gastronomica)


TASTE (law and the senses series)

(aesthetics, philosophy, and anthropology of food; PDF of the 2018 anthology from the University of Westminster Press)


Types of Coconuts

(varieties from around the world; an illustrated guide from Leafy Place)


Types of Onions

(“varieties of onions and how to use them;” an illustrated guide from Leafy Place)


Types of Red Berries That Grow on Trees or Shrubs

(an identification guide from Leafy Place)


What Humanity Should Eat to Stay Healthy and Save the Planet

(Gayathri Vaidyanathan’s Nature article about the cost of global sustainability and adequate nutrition)



— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —


10 Massively Inedible Roadside Attractions


Christmas Feasts


“Designing Human-Food Interactions in Space Is Not a Trivial Task.”


Fine Dining on the Front Line


How Marcella Hazan Became a Legend of Italian Cooking


How Things Are Changing for Women in the Kitchen


It’s Time to Retire the ‘Julia Child Of’ Trope



Millions of Followers? For Book Sales, ‘It’s Unreliable.’


Mrs. Goodfellow—Raves from Miss Leslie and Others


Who Owns a Recipe? A Plagiarism Claim Has Cookbook Authors Asking.


Wisdom about Wine and Food Pairing


World’s Vast Networks of Underground Fungi to Be Mapped for First Time



— another blog —


Medieval Mead and Beer



— podcasts, etcetera —


Hot Ale Flip, The


XOXO Dorie



— that’s all for now —


Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:


As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.


Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.


Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:


The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)


The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Human Cuisine
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(


Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier

(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)


How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating

(Paper)
(Kindle)


How to Write a Great Book

(Paper)
(Kindle)


The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Cenotaphs
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...


...for the moment, anyway.


______________


The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #255 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.


Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.


 •  0 comments  •  flag
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Published on December 10, 2021 11:57

November 12, 2021

Food Sites for December 2021


 Preserved for winter.


November delivered our first killing frost. 


There was a time, not that long ago, in our collective memory, when gardens died each year—and, if we didn’t “put food by”—we would too. It wasn’t a joke when people alluded to “the dead of winter.” But countless generations filled root cellars [speaking of which, make sure to check out The Botanist in the Root Cellar, below] with carrots and turnips and beets and potatoes—plus jars (or barrels) of all sorts of pickled produce. Their attics held strings of dried fruits, mushrooms, and herbs. Sometimes, they’d bury apples, layered with straw, the longest-keeping varieties at the bottom, to be exhumed through the dark months of the year. 


By the end of winter everyone would be mighty tired of preserved food. But Spring would always come (at least for those who had prudently prepared before the Winter) and jaded appetites rediscovered fresh food. Today, a quick trip to the supermarket allows us to eat anything we want, anytime we want, and seasons have been rendered irrelevant. Of course, all of that out-of-season produce—shipped from far-away places—comes with a price, the biggest of which is flavor. Perhaps a winter of pickles was not too much to pay for the joy of encountering the first ripe in-season strawberry of Spring?


We haven’t published anything new this month—shocking, right?—but we have begun writing a sort of nostalgic novella. Tentatively titled Beer Taste (on a Champagne Budget), it’s a little like The Wonder Years, but with food—and recipes.


You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and . Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.


We’ve dug into the pantry for a few excerpts from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:

 


The jelly—the jam and the marmalade,
And the cherry-and quince-“preserves” she made!
And the sweet-sour pickles of peach and pear,
With cinnamon in ‘em, and all things rare!
And the more we ate was the more to spare,
Out to old Aunt Mary’s! Ah! James Whitcomb Riley




The rule is, jam to-morrow and jam yesterday—but never jam today. Lewis Carroll




Marmalade in the morning has the same effect on taste buds that a cold shower has on the body. Jeanine Larmoth




In the last analysis, a pickle is a cucumber with experience. Irena Chalmers


Gary
December, 2021


PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Sheila Ratcliffe), thanks, and keep them coming!


PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.



— the new sites —


Are Vegetables Winning?

(New York Magazine article, by Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite, on meatless options in the Big Apple)


Botanist in the Root Cellar, The

(the taxonomy of all the foods we casually refer to as “roots”)


Chicago Brewseum

(dedicated to preserving the culture & history of beer, they don’t have a physical location yet—but the museum has coordinated exhibits elsewhere and has even developed a few beers of its own)


Culinary Detectives Try to Recover the Formula for a Deliciously Fishy Roman Condiment

(Taras Grescoe’s article, in Smithsonian, about trying to recreate the long-lost garum sociorum)


Female Cooks Who Shaped French Cuisine, The

(Rachel E. Black’s essay about women in the celebrated kitchens of Lyon, in Zocalo; an excerpt from Cheffes de Cuisine: Women and Work in the Professional French Kitchen)


foodtank

(“the think tank for food;” articles about responsible food systems, sustainability, etc.)


From Pythagorean to Pescatarian; The Evolution of Vegetarianism

(Tori Avey’s account, fresh from The History Kitchen)


Fry Bread Is Beloved, but Also Divisive

(Kevin Noble Maillard’ New York Times article on a Native American foodstuff with a history that shares origins that are similar to that of “soul food”)


Great Organic-Food Fraud, The

(Ian Parker’s New Yorker exposé of why things are not always what they seem—or claim to be)


How Korean Cuisine Got Huge in America (and Why It Took So Long)

(John Surico gets an answer from Matt Rodbard—one of the authors of Koreatown: A Cookbook—for Serious Eats)


Is Coffee Good for You?

(Dawn MacKeen on the latest medical opinion, in The New York Times)


Let the Wine Flow

(Nathan Steinmeyer’s report, in Bible History Daily, on the excavation of a Byzantine winery at Tel Yavne, in Israel)


Olives for Ancient Eating

(Jonathan Laden’s report on archaeological work in Israel; in Bible History Daily)


Outline View (with links)

(The Botanist in the Kitchen’s taxonomic table of food plants grouped by their botanical relationships)


People All Over the World Love Adobo—But What Is It?

(whether it’s from Spain, Mexico, the Philippines, or Puerto Rico, Bettina Makalintal has the answer at Bon Appetit)


Search for the Competitive Edge: A History of Dietary Fads and Supplements

(Louis Grivetti’s 1997 paper in The Journal of Nutrition)


True Story of Pizza Margherita: a Food Fit for a Queen, The

(Francine Segan traces the ancient roots of pizza for La Cucina Italiana)


Untold Story of Sushi in America, The

(Daniel Fromson’s New York Times article about the connection between sushi and the Rev. Sun Myung Moon)


What Is A Potato Anyway?

(Amiel Stanek‘s article, in Bon Appétit, offers a quick answer)


World War Wednesday: Save a Loaf a Week

(Sarah Wassberg Johnson’s blog, The Food Historian, looks at food rationing campaigns during World War I)



— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —


Building Blocks: Chapulines, a Bug’s Culinary Life in Oaxaca


Definitive History of Dorie Greenspan’s Chocolate Chip Cookies, The


Does Wine Have a Subject Matter?


Feast for the Soul


Flavor, Memory, and Emotion


Free Man of Color Whose Invention Revolutionized the Sugar Industry, The


How a Librarian and a Food Historian Rediscovered the Recipes of Moorish Spain


How Capicola Became Gabagool: The Italian New Jersey Accent, Explained


How Much Syrup Can a Doughnut Leak?


How to Cook from a Historical Recipe


How to Make Twitter a Better Place—With Emotional Food Memories


How to Start a Writing Podcast


In Shanghai, Teahouses Offer Both Community and Solitude


Laurie Colwin’s Recipe for Being Yourself in the Kitchen


London Chef Elizabeth Haigh’s Cookbook Withdrawn After Plagiarism Allegations


On Aroma and Emotion


Return of the American Rail Dining Car, The


Rise and Rise of Mother Gin, The


Small Cautionary Tale about Cookbooks and Authenticity, A


Traveling the World for Recipes, but Always Looking for Home


Tweezer Cuisine


Two Mustard Seeds, Lime-Sized Balls of Tamarind, and Hand Smells


U.S. Restaurant Criticism Was Evolving Well Before Covid-19. The Pandemic Revealed Why Critics Need to Keep Embracing Change.


Why Cookbook Stores Are the Antidote We Need Right Now


Writing about Food IS Writing



— more blogs —


British Food: A History


Food Section, The



— podcasts, etcetera —


Art of Eating, The (Calhum Trailer Final)


Barbara Haber: The Lioness at the Library


Buried Treasure: Weeds, Seeds, and Zombies


Conversation with Melissa Clark, A


Cookbooks with Virginia


“Every Time You Make A Recipe, You Take A Risk,” An Interview With David Sutton


How We Find Our Writer’s Voice, with Dianne Jacob


Inside Julia’s Kitchen


JULIA | Official Trailer (2021)


New Book Brings Foodies on a Global Culinary Adventure


Rise and Folly of the Refugee Cookbook, The


Taste of Louisiana, A: Mainstreaming Blackness Through Food in The Princess and the Frog


Tip of the Tongue 100: 100th Episode Special with Ken Albala


Why the Recession Helped the Donut


Why You Should Eat Oysters at Home (And How to Shuck Them!)


Women Left Out of Cocktail History, The


Zest, The



— changed URL —


Oyster Varieties




— that’s all for now —


Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:


As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.


Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.


Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:


The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)


The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Human Cuisine
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier

(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)


How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating

(Paper)
(Kindle)


How to Write a Great Book

(Paper)
(Kindle)


The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Cenotaphs
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...


...for the moment, anyway.


______________


The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #254 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.


Copyright ©2021 by Gary Allen.


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Published on November 12, 2021 08:10

October 12, 2021

Food Sites for November 2021

Benjamin Franklin’s choice for the national bird


If you have ever had any interest in preserving your current body shape, remember your Dante. “Abandon all hope, ye who enter” the gluttonous circle of hell that we like to call “La Grande Abbuffata.” After all, if we weren’t meant to be overweight, why would Christmas, Hannukah, Kwanzaa, Thanksgiving, and New Year’s Eve be heaped onto our plates—each one more densely caloric than the last—just as the year gives up the ghost?


Changing the subject, abruptly: We discovered that one of our articles “Knocking Trout Off Its Perch,” is no longer available on Drexel University’s Table Matters website—so we posted it on our blog, Just Served. We changed the title to “Spring and the Nature of Eating” (which was the original title, anyway).


You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.


And now to pluck a few seasonally-appropriate excerpts from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:



In so far as God has partly revealed to us an angelic world, he has partly told us what an angel means. But God has never told us what a turkey means. And if you go and stare at a live turkey for an hour or two, you will find by the end of it that the enigma has rather increased than diminished. G. K. Chesterton




If the soup had been as warm as the wine; if the wine had been as old as the turkey; and if the turkey had had a breast like the maid, it would have been a swell dinner. Duncan Hines




The pilgrims were kicked out of England, quarreled with the Dutch, alienated the Indians, and had an evil reputation among the turkeys. Dave Beard




Don’t assume you’re always going to be understood. I wrote in a column that one should put a cup of liquid in the cavity of a turkey when roasting it. Someone wrote me that “the turkey tasted great, but the plastic cup melted.” Heloise


Gary
November, 2021


PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Cynthia Bertelsen and Cara De Silva), thanks, and keep them coming!


PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.



— the new sites —


4 Cholesterol Myths It’s Officially Time to Stop Believing, According to Dietitians

(Karla Walsh sets the record straight, for allrecipes)


Automated Restaurants, Past and Present

(Annie Ewbank’s Gastro Observer article about food on the move)


Battle of the Bubbles, A: War Comes to the Prosecco Hills

(what’s in a name? Jason Horowitz writes, in The New York Times, about the ensuing battle between the producers of Italian prosecco and Croatian prosek)


Book of Bread, The

(PDF of Owen Simmons’ 1903 professional how-to-manual/photobook)


Can the Iconic Georgia Peach Keep Growing in a Warming South?

(Sarah Gibbens discusses the effects of climate change on the fuzzy fruit in National Geographic)


Cook in Spanish: Bi-lingual Gastronomic Vocabulary

(from “alfalfa” to “yellowtail”—“alfalfa” to “jurel;” a PDF)


Death of the Wine Critic Has Left a Hangover, The

(Jason Wilson’s lament/complaint, at Pix)


Ethiopia’s Wild Coffee Forests

(GastroObserver’s interview with Jeff Koehler, author of Where the Coffee Grows Wild)


Food Culture and Literary Imagination in Early Modern Italy. The Renaissance of Taste

(Allen J Grieco announces Laura Giannetti’s first volume in the series Food Culture, Food History before 1900 for the Amsterdam University Press; the book is here)


Guide to Thai Curries, A

(Pailin Chongchitnant’s article at Serious Eats; with definitions, recipes, and links to more recipes)


History of Börek, A

(Alexander Lee’s account of ubiquitous stuffed pastries dating back to the Ottomans and beyond; article at History Today)


How to Read a Wine Label, in 12 Easy Lessons

(Eric Asimov’s answer in The New York Times)


Massive Kitchens, Unique Tastes: India’s Ancient Temple Cuisine Sits in a Class of Its Own

(Rakesh Kumar’s report for CNN Travel)


Saint Hyacinth of Pierogi

(Karol Palion’s blog, Forking Around with History, takes on the questionable connection between saint and Polish stuffed dumplings)


Transpacific Trade Route & Its Influence on Mexican Cuisine, The

(Candelaria Donají Méndez Tello and Blanca Estela Leyva Gutiérrez on “the exchange of plants, seeds, spices and people,”—a different story than the well-known Columbian Exchange—for imagine-mexico.com)


Types of Plums: Black, Red, and More Varieties (with Pictures)–Including Plumcots, Apriums, and Pluots

(lots of details, from Leafy Place)


West African Influence on Mexican Rice Cultivation and Gastronomy

(excerpt from Marco Polo Hendández Cuevas’ book, The Afro-Mexican Ancestors and the Nation They Constructed)


When Life Gives You Lemons, It’s a Status Symbol: On the Evolving Literary and Cultural History of Citrus

(Jean Huang jumps from Little Women to the literary, historic, and archaeological evidence—for Literary Hub)


Wine Tasting, Vineyards, in France

(photographer Bertrand Celce visited a vast number of French vineyards and interviewed their winemakers)



— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —


7 of the Oldest Recipes in History


Apparently, Some People Can’t Be Bothered With Food


Claudia Roden: “What Do I Want from Life Now? Having People Around My Table”


Cookery Books: Britain s Gift to America


Digitized “What’s the Recipe for a Queer Cookbook” Exhibit


Drexel Food Lab’s Deutsch Shares Future of Foodtech


Food Wars, The


Generate Free Barcodes Online


Gundruk, The


Inside the Company Printing America’s Community Cookbooks


ISSUE 36, PICNIC, Part 1: The Heart of the Picnic


Just 10 Companies Control Most of the World’s Food & Beverages


Spoof of a Saveur Story Might Go Like This..., A


Tea or Coffee?


Ten Things Nobody Tells You About the Publishing Industry


We Share More than Food at the Table, Says Culinary Historian Jessica Harris


Who Called the Carbonara Police?


Wine, Food, and Nostalgia



— another blog —


Chandri’s Kitchen



— podcasts, etcetera —


Calendar of Virtual Food History Talks, Cook-Alongs, Demos


EatsDrinksTV


Kitchen Whisperers with Dorothy Kalins


M.F.K. Fisher: Poet of the Appetites | The New School


Tequila, the OG Mexican Spirit


Truth About Food, The


West Africa in Mexican Rice Cultivation and Gastronomy



— changed URL —


Sporkful, The



— that’s all for now —


Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:


As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.


Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.


Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:


The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)


The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Human Cuisine
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(


Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier

(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)


How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating

(Paper)
(Kindle)


How to Write a Great Book

(Paper)
(Kindle)


The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Cenotaphs
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...


...for the moment, anyway.


______________


The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #253 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.


Copyright ©2021 by Gary Allen.


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Published on October 12, 2021 09:24

September 19, 2021

Spring and the Nature of Eating

 


Trout season is approaching its most glorious phase, that time known as “the sweet of the year.” It’s that blissful time when the season is at its showiest, the air is soft, the streams have cleared, and the trout are rising freely in a most pleasing manner. Which is not to say that they are easily caught—they are still trout, after all. These elegant fish inhabit some of the most poetic and pristine waters, and employ their wiles inscrutably to bewitch and befuddle even the most sophisticated anglers.

So why, over that paean of piscatorial prose, is this scrawl illustrated with a lowly Yellow Perch?

Trout and Yellow Perch tell us something about the way we choose to feed ourselves. Some fishermen (at least those who do not adhere strictly to the canon of catch-and-release) will occasionally consume trout and bass, but eschew “lesser” species such as Bluegills or Yellow Perch. These easily-caught fish actually taste better than the more prestigious species (that’s why they are known collectively as “pan fish”). Trout, especially hatchery-raised fish (which are much more common than truly wild trout ) tend to have soft flesh, with a slightly musty flavor that is probably the result of the food pellets they ate. Bass (especially large-mouth bass) are often caught in muddy or weedy waters, and their flavor can reflect that terroir. Pan fish, on the other hand, are nearly always wild, and their flesh is firm and sweet. So why would someone prefer a food with potentially poorer culinary properties, that is harder to come by?

Those choosy fishermen demonstrate an important aspect of eating: the food itself is only a small part of the eating experience. What we choose to eat is determined by factors that are often at odds with our best interest. We place greater value on the symbolic aspects of foods than on their intrinsic properties.

Why would people (in the past) have preferred white bread to the “lowlier” peasant breads that were cheaper, tastier, and more nutritious? White flour was more labor-intensive, so only the wealthy could afford it—therefore eaters of white bread were visibly part of a higher-status group than eaters of dark breads. Once industrially-produced white flour, became cheap, available to everyone—consequently, losing status. Before long, whole grain breads—made, supposedly, by artisanal methods—gained a newly enhanced status. That status, in turn led people to believe that such breads were “more healthful.” Today’s supermarkets carry a plethora of supposedly more natural breads: not just whole wheat; but honey-laden 12-grain; crusty loaves festooned with seeds of pumpkin, sunflower, and flax; studded with wheat-berries and rolled oats. It’s only a matter of time before we’re offered breads that are indistinguishable from Chia Pets. Being sufficiently well-off to choose “health” over mere sustenance implied higher status, justifying the higher prices of darker breads. Former peasant breads, like pumpernickel and Russian black bread regained their lost status.

Since trout and bass require more effort to catch than plebian pan fish, they likewise confer higher status on those who choose to eat them. Yellow Perch, on the other hand, are so willing to be caught that even a small child, equipped with only the simplest gear (a hand-line, hook, and an old cork will serve nicely) and most rudimentary skills, can easily catch enough to feed their whole family. All that’s required are a few worms, and the ability to wait until the bobbing cork says it’s time to give the line a yank.

Despite the pretentions of fishers of elite species, what they demonstrate is not connoisseurship, but rather the brute power of supply-and-demand. Time is money, so having the leisure time to invest in the sport— not to mention the financial wherewithal to acquire custom-made bamboo fly rods or high-powered bass boats—means that every mouthful of gamefish is more precious than saffron-gilded peacock’s tongues.

At one time lobsters and caviar were so abundant that only servants and slaves had to eat them. The poor were pitied for having to endure the monotony of such mundane fare. Salty caviar was once given away free in taverns to encourage beer sales, while lobsters were so common that they were fed to prisoners, or used to fertilize vegetable gardens.  When my mother was growing up, on the Connecticut shore, mussels were abundant—but only poor Italian immigrants collected them. Her Yankee family considered mussels to be trash, and would never touch them. Even during The Great Depression, they chose to eat the tougher (and harder-to-collect) hard-shell clams, Those big quahogs were only suitable for chowder, or chopped for clam pies. I doubt that any of my Yankee ancestors had ever tasted the sweet and tender black mussels that covered every rock in Long Island Sound, were free for the taking.

Why would people shun perfectly-delicious food in favor of something more difficult to obtain, yet not nearly as tasty? Because their self-image is more important, and presumably longer-lasting, than their evanescent dining experiences. Or, to paraphrase Brillat-Savarin, bluntly, “Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you who you think you are.” 

In the sweet of the year, I may be savoring the memories of trout I’ve caught and lost… but I’ll actually be tasting the sweet flesh of a few yellow perch.

This article originally appeared in the Spring 2016 issue of Drexel University’s Table Matters—as “Knocking Trout off its Perch,” but is no longer available on its website.

My illustration (“Yellow Perch & Gold-ribbed Hare’s Ear”) was a gift for one of my fishing buddies—the artist Tom Stratton, in 1989—and that home-tied fly has long been one of our favorites for half a century.

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Published on September 19, 2021 07:46

September 13, 2021

Food Sites for October 2021


Gourds, warts and all.


It’s autumn, and we’re awash in the annual tsunami of pumpkin-spice-everything. There doesn’t seem to be a way to escape it—unless one never leaves the safety of home. Fortunately, introverts/hermits/writers effectively limit their exposure to that marketing plague. Reading through all of the links in this longer-than-usual issue of updates can also help (if only because it will keep you out of your local Dunkin Donuts).


In another form of relief, many of you will be happy to learn that we have self-published ABSOLUTELY NOTHING this month—although we haven’t stopped scribbling; wrote the first draft of a novella (working title, so far: Unbelievable) and one of a short story. The novella is not really about food (but includes plenty of food & drink elements). The short story—set in a special section of Hades—has only minor references to food. It’s working title is “Darkness, Darkness.”


You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.


From the Two-Different-Takes Dep’t, a couple of excerpts from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:



The capacity of human beings to bore one another seems to be vastly greater than that of any other animals. Some of their most esteemed inventions have no other apparent purpose, for example, the dinner party of more than two, the epic poem, and the science of metaphysics. HL Mencken




I have long believed that good food, good eating is all about risk. Whether we’re talking about unpasteurized Stilton, raw oysters, or working for organized crime “associates,” food, for me, has always been an adventure. Anthony Bourdain


Gary
October, 2021


PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Krishnendu Ray and Anne Mendelson), thanks, and keep them coming!


PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.



— the new sites —


Ancient Mediterranean People Ate Bananas and Turmeric From Asia 3,700 Years Ago

(Claire Bugos reports on more archaeological discoveries, for Smithsonian, based on this )


Brief History of Pickles, A

(Michele Debczak’s article at Mental Floss)


Chinese Food & History

(a misnomer; Miranda Brown’s site features articles on plenty of Asian cuisines, not just China’s)


DeepL

(one of the better online translation tools)


Eating in Jerusalem

(an exhibition/magazine from the Museum of the History of Jerusalem)


Epic Cooking: The Decorous Rite of the Mushroom Hunt

(foraging for fungi in Poland)


Expanding the Israeli Menu

(Flora Tsapovsky, in Tablet, discusses the multicultural eclecticism of modern Israeli cuisine)


Farro: An Ancient and Complicated Grain Worth Figuring Out

(Laura Weiss’s article at NPR’s Kitchen Window)


Food & Material Culture

(PDF of the 2013 Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery)


How Ice Cream Became the Ultimate American Comfort Food

(an excerpt from Matt Siegel’s book, The Secret History of Food)


How the Kitchen Took Over Our Homes

(Deborah Sugg Ryan’s British take on an answer in Financial Times)


Late-Summer Tart from a Misunderstood Master of French Cooking, A

(Mayukh Sen’s tribute to Madeleine Kamman, in The New Yorker)


Minoans Saw Wheat as Classy and Lentils as “Plebeian” Fare, Archaeologists Deduce

(Ruth Schuster, writing for Haaretz, digs into ancient dietary choices as revealed at two sites in Crete)


Pot Thickens, The

(Jonathan Olivier tells the story of filé in The Bitter Southerner—along with some non-Zappa gumbo variations)


Save the Planet, Eat a Bug

(Dana Goodyear’s article from a 2011 issue of The New Yorker)


What Is Curry, Anyways?

(Alex Delany’s answer at Bon Appétit’s Basically)


Who Invented Peanut Butter?

(...and who better to ask than the National Peanut Board?)



— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —


Bacon: A Story of Rags to Riches


Can We Fix America’s Food-Appropriation Problem?


Dearth of Pleasure, A: The Curse of Modern Food Writing


Digital Truths Traditional Publishers Don’t Want to Hear, The


English Food Store, The 


Frosting Versus Icing: What’s the Difference?


Hilary Mantel on How Writers Learn to Trust Themselves


How to Write a Great Recipe Headnote


No One Will Read Your Book (and Other Truths about Publishing)


Notes on Cravings


Old Fashioned Kitchen Sayings from Mexico: Dichos de Antaño de la Cocina Mexicana


Psychologists Explain Why Food Memories Can Feel So Powerful


Sandwich, A


Should We Genetically Edit the Food We Eat? We Asked Two Experts


Should You Publish Your Book with a Small Press? Two Literary Agents Advise


“Super Taster” Who Lost Sense of Smell Is Helping Italians Regain It


Why Do Fantasy Novels Have So Much Food?


Why Grocery Stores Get Jewish Holidays All Wrong


Wine and Cuisine: Craft or Art?



— other blogs —


Forking Around with History


Tower of David



— podcasts, etcetera —



Ancient Drink Serving the World for 13,000 Years, The


Deadly Secret of the Humble Grapefruit, The


Disgusting Food Museum


How to Photograph a Mushroom


Why Insects are the Missing Link in our Food System



— changed URL —


O Mosey Quince



— that’s all for now —


Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:


As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.


Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.


Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:


The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)


The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Human Cuisine
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(


Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier

(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)


How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating

(Paper)
(Kindle)


How to Write a Great Book

(Paper)
(Kindle)


The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Cenotaphs
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...


...for the moment, anyway.


______________


The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #252 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.


Copyright ©2021 by Gary Allen.

 

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Published on September 13, 2021 12:00