Gail Doane's Blog, page 2

Flower Girl Dress for Jane

Jane is very excited to be a flower girl next month and the occasion called for a special dress.  I chose a luscious ivory silk shantung to smock a VERY simple sleeveless yoke dress.  The fabric was challenging to pleat ( a BIT of an understatement!) but I  was very  pleased with the finished results.  I did iron on a layer of very lightweight interfacing to the back of the pleated area prior to running it through the pleater.  The fabric is amazing.  It does not crush or wrinkle as many silks would.  Should be perfect for an active, never stand still, kind of a girl.

I chose Marlitt (rayon) floss to do all the smocking and embroidery because of it's beautiful sheen.  It's a bit of a nightmare to work with but I love the end result.  I was lucky to find Swarovski crystal beads in just the right colors to complement the smocking.  In the daylight the front of the dress really sparkles.




The back of the dress is finished off with a large silk organza bow - only a cute four year old could pull that off!  I also added a touch of sparkle to the back of the dress with beaded sash carriers.



The dress is lightweight and should not be too fussy for her to feel comfortable wearing.  I will post pictures of Jane wearing the dress next month.

Finally... Something new!

After a long absence of complete non stop busy I finally have something new to post.  This project will be for classes later in the year.  I am having a bit of an obsession with small scale prints paired with feather weight corduroy and this set keeps it going.  The paisley cotton lawn print is from a Robert Kaufman collection called 'London Calling' and  is a lovely 'Liberty' like knock off.  I have paired the print with the feather weight corduroy to look like a jumper and blouse but it is really all sewn together as a dress.  

The collar is piped with the lavender corduroy and trimmed with a bias cut ruffle.  Not the easiest collar to assemble and get to kiss together right at the center front and center back.  The skirt has three large box pleats across the front and two inverted pleats in the back for a controlled amount of fullness.  The dress is meant to be paired with a jacket and I wanted to keep an A line shape to the skirt.  

The jacket is completely interlined with 'baby' interfacing for better weight and wrinkle resistance to the feather weight corduroy.  It is fully lined with lime 1/32" micro check and has an adjustable fold up sleeve length. The embroidery on the pockets are simple beginner hand stitches - chain, French knot, and backstitch.  The little bird is just one of the paisley shapes from the print inverted and embellished.



The 'London Calling' paisley comes in three great color ways which I plan to pair with the lavender, red, and hot pink corduroy.

When I Grow Up I Want To Be........

When I grow up I want to be just like Miss Dot.  I had the immense pleasure of spending a few days with Miss Dot in Richmond Virginia this past month.  Miss Dot is a well know figure in the heirloom sewing world and at just shy of 90 years young is still sewing up a storm.  I could not have been more impressed with anyone.  She is blessed with a quick wit, a gentle spirit, and a major gift with a needle in her hand.

It was my privilege to spend time stitching (please excuse the casual attire!) side by side with this gracious lady.   She can convey more with one arched eyebrow than 1000 words could speak. Clearly I have lots to learn!

Miss Dot was up for the challenge of participating in a three day class to make this corduroy scalloped jacket and matching dress.  May we all be as engaged and willing to try something new when we reach her years.  She was a model student who probably REALLY should have been the teacher.


I also managed to get to Colorado to see some of my grand kids this past month.  They don't think I'm that much fun but can hardly wait for my two teenagers to show up.  This is Hailey modelling a version of  'April in Paris' from AS&E issue #80 with her Aunt Doireann (my youngest daughter) who has spent many years putting up with modelling dresses for me.



Not to forget the boys... My youngest son could not sit down without a niece or nephew landing in his lap and it usually turned into an entire chair full.



My sewing days are long over for these big boys but they are clearly the life of any party.

Red White and Blue

Happy Canada Day (July 1st) and Happy July 4th

It just sort of worked out that my current project is red, white, and blue.  Two little sailor rompers in a size 1.  


The girl and boy versions have a white linen top and a  1/32" cotton  micro check bottom. The bodice front has a pulled thread grid which was machine stitched with an entredeux stitch and then the red or blue floss was woven through the holes created by the machine.  The sailor collar and sleeve cuff feature a line of hand stitched double feather stitch.  The girl sleeve has some 'puff' at the cap in contrast to the fitted sleeve on the little boy romper.

 
The sewn in shaped belts are piped at top and bottom.  The girl romper has a tie sash in the back and the boy version is more tailored with a lapped button back belt.  These rompers are a bit more complicated to put together than they might appear.  I like everything to line up at the center back and this project presented a few challenges in that department.  



These rompers in sizes 1-3 will be a new class for me in 2014. I think they are a good mix of a 'do-able' project paired with lots of interesting design and construction details. 

Girls Just WanNa Have Fun

Sew, laugh, eat, sew, laugh, eat, sew, laugh, eat - repeat from beginning for a week!. I have just come home from a sewing retreat with the most fabulous group of friends in the most charming location.  Welcome to Petticoat Junction in Normandy Tennessee.


The Junction is a retreat house which sleeps 15 in 'dormitory' style rooms with a large open sewing space on the upper floor.







This gives you just a little look at the bedrooms.  There was a beautiful dining room where home cooked catered meals appeared as if by magic.  Is there anything better than dinner showing up after a full day of stitching?


A comfortable sitting room was available for watching movies and hanging out at night but I have to admit I don't think any of us stepped a foot in there - too much sew, laugh, eat.........


The entire house was a delight with vintage photos, good books on every shelf, and a screened back porch (complete with daybed) with a swing that was a perfect spot for early morning coffee and stitching.  There was even a little shaded table out in the side yard.







The big open room upstairs had lots of natural light and a terrific 'feel'.  Notice the color coordinated work stations - these girls are serious!




Most afternoons we took a break and walked around the little town.  There was a bit of 'strut' going on with some reliving their high school days.  Others (who shall remain anonymous) felt it necessary to take their sangria for a walk.  If you look closely you may notice someone is still in pajamas - clearly the dress code was a few steps below casual.





The week would not have been complete without a late night trip to a neighboring town for a Walmart run.  There was also a little bit of 'strut' going on there.  It's amazing how much stuff looks appealing when you are with eight sleep deprived women late at night in a Walmart.



As luck would have it Petticoat Junction is right next door to a  lovely local dining spot which served a 'knock your socks off' Sunday buffet (which I learned is really a boo-fay!)  You know you are in the south when the sweet tea is served in Mason Jars.   Clearly no one went hungry.  We were also treated to some live music.





I think it is safe to say a good time was had by all - even the one that slept through being toilet papered to her bed or the 'young one' that kept a good attitude with us 'worrisome' and 'troubled' older women and provided unending tech support.



I would like to send a big shout out THANK YOU to eight really terrific, funny, smart, compassionate, gorgeous women who were the best company I could have ever asked for.  I even got a little bit of my own stitching done - another version of my new dress and jacket.
     


You know the old saying "a picture is worth a thousand words" - this last photo sums up a perfect week.  

Corduroy Swing Jacket

I have had lots of requests to expand the size range of the swing style jacket that was published in my Sew Cute Couture book (Cute As A Button if you have the Australian publication - the content of both books is exactly the same)  The original jacket was sized 6 months through 3 years and was styled with a full cut sleeve and a back yoke with a 2" center back pleat for width to accommodate the fullness of the matching bishop dress.  Here's a couple of different fabric variations made up from the pattern in the book.



My new project is made up in black feather wale corduroy with lots (lots!) of periwinkle blue corduroy piping. Because the feather wale corduroy is not really heavy enough to be jacket weight I fused light weight interfacing to the back of the uncut yardage prior to cutting out the pattern pieces.  It gave the corduroy a beautiful  'hand' and great stability which I think saved me when trying to pipe around all the scalloped edges.

 The jacket has a more tailored two piece sleeve and allows for a turn back cuff in the contrast fabric.  This turn back sleeve also buys adjustment and growth room.  The back of the jacket has lots of visual interest with a scalloped, piped yoke overlay and a 3" box pleat down the center back. 


 I had enough of the coordinating dress fabric left over so I chose it as a lining for the jacket.  This jacket goes together completely on the machine with the exception of the little bit of hand work involved making the cast-on stitch flowers on the self fabric covered buttons. 

The coordinating under dress has a sewn in piped corduroy belt and shaped corduroy cuff on the sleeve to tie in with the scalloped and piped edges on the jacket.  The button down the back skirt of the dress is pleated rather than gathered onto the bodice.  It gives a nice tailored look while still keeping the 'twirl' factor in the fullness of the skirt.  


I used two very helpful items making this project.  The first is this applique foot to make and apply my piping.  It's not sold as a piping foot but it is perfection for making and applying mini piping -especially around curves.  It has a center groove that holds the cord perfectly in place and is very short to allow easy movement around curves.  The second is a little gadget called a 'perfect pleater' which I used to attach the skirt to the bodice of the dress.  I am also in love with my new Pfaff Creative Performance.  After 20 years of sewing on a Pfaff 7550 a new machine is showing this old dog a few new tricks!    


I will size this jacket and dress in a 4-8 for classes in the fall.  I'm getting ready to try another one in this fabric combination.  I am making a concentrated effort to use up some of my stashed Liberty prints.

Remake of a Favorite

The original version of the dress was published several years ago by Country Bumpkin.  It was called April in Paris and was on the cover of issue #80.  They could not have picked a more perfect model.


The dress was  made from blue Swiss batiste and the jacket all ivory laces worked over a layer of ivory silk organza.  While Swiss batiste is a lovely fabric to work with, it's wrinkle factor can be a bit of a nightmare to deal with.  My dress remake is a beautiful small woven check white on white Swiss voile.


It's sheer but not wimpy and beautifully wrinkle resistant.  I think it is creeping up into being one of my top three favorite fabrics.


The cut away over jacket is all white Swiss and French laces worked over a layer of white silk organza.  The  sleeveless smocked dress stands quite well on it's own and dresses up very well with the added lace jacket.    The smocking and embroidery is all worked with rayon thread which I have to admit made me a bit crazy.  Love the finished result but don't love the process of working with the rayon threads

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This remake is a bit of a 'two birds with one stone' project.  I will use it as a class project during 2013 and it will be a birthday dress for a much loved granddaughter who will turn 8 in August.  The lavender and white combination is her mother's favorite and a little nod to her christening dress which was designed in the same color palette.  It does not seem possible she is already almost eight.  The photo of Hailey and her mom, my  second daughter Megan, is one of my favorites.

Liberty Love

   Sometimes fabrics just speak to you.  This Liberty print says it all to me - love it!       The under dress is all ivory PERFECTLY matched laces and batiste.  I have to give a big shout out to Capital Imports and Farmhouse Fabrics for providing these beautiful materials.  We all know there are many, many shades of ivory, some which look good together, and some which REALLY don't.  This can be a big frustration when planning a project with multiple laces and fabrics.  Thumbs up!!!

 

Another Capri Set

I'm been having a bit of fun making capri sets that incorporate heirloom techniques in the small size manageable format of  a swing top and pants - not yards and yards of full skirts and ruffles.  This one has a bit of hand embroidery, button centered cast-on flowers connected with a chain stitch, an interesting two color entredeux edge trim, and lots of  French bias bound edges.


The interfaced pockets have an embroidered, entredeux trimmed flap and are bound with 1/16"  lime microcheck.  I like to prefinish my bindings to the exact length needed, using a technique that angles the ending seam allowance away from the final finished edge.  It gives a much cleaner, less bulky finish than trying to tuck the binding end seam allowances in at the finished edges.  I prefinished the length of the bias bindings on the neckline, pockets, and lower edge of the swing top.


The edges of the pocket flaps, mock front yoke, and ruffle sleeves are finished with entredeux which has been trimmed and embellished with a cross stitch and running stitch in two contrasting colors.

   The top  fabric is petite point pique and is fully lined with Imperial batiste. The cuffed, reversible capris are fine line navy pique reversing to microcheck.  This will be a new class project for 2013 in sizes 3-6.  I'm trying to step away from the traditional pastel pink/blue/ green color palette that is so lovely to work with but often over used.  I'm making this set up in an alternate color way of aqua pique and orange microcheck. I don't think I've made anything orange in my entire life - well... maybe in the 70's but I can't be held responsible for that.   

Farmhouse Fabrics Project for 2013

This is a photo of the first version (kind of a trial run) of the project I'm planning for Farmhouse Fabrics next year.  The cotton batiste underdress/slip could stand alone with a sash as a beach type dress of it could take on a very formal look worn under a velveteen or corduroy dark colored a-line jumper.  I love the look of  it paired with the smocked  floral cotton lawn jumper.




The smocked jumper slips on over the head but has plenty of tricky construction points with all the piped, curved, French bias bound edges.  The underdress/slip, as mentioned in my earlier post, includes lots of  1/8" tucks, Swiss and French laces, and a cotton netting collar. 


I can't wait to start on the real deal - all ivory laces paired with my personal favorite fabric to sew on - Liberty Tana Lawn.  The print I have chosen to use is from their classic collection and is called  'Bourton'.