Tim Notier's Blog, page 11
December 16, 2018
Over a Year on the Road - Our Gear Revisited
By Tim Notier After having been on the road for over a year, it is time to look back at our favorite items, and some that didn't make the cut.
The following is a list of the things we brought with us and why. We have not received any discounts or free merchandise for promotional purposes. We purchased these items with our own money, and due to that fact, better-quality and more expensive items may exist out there. These are simply our honest, unfiltered opinions on what we decided to bring on our trip.
Universal Bike Enhancements No matter what bike you have, these are great improvements whatever lays ahead. The links to the items are highlighted in Green.
We have AirHawk cushions (B+) for both seats as I'm in a never-ending quest to make my ass more comfortable. At first I had to slightly customize the AirHawk cover to allow me to stuff a scarf in the front to better support my nether area that needed support... In Guatemala (because a dog ate my AirHawk), I purchased a newer model that has a space cut out for that area. Barkbuster hand-guards (A+). They haven't snapped off yet after countless of drops, and a couple of power slides. A great investment to keep your levers safe. PDM power distribution module (A+). I upgraded our electrical system with outlets all around the bike to plug in our heated gear (that we have since sent back home), charge our phones and GPS, etc. Great device, simple to install.
Auxbeam 4" auxiliary lights (A+) - A cheap ($20) set from Amazon, have not failed me yet over 7 months through rain and hail. I personally do not see a need to spend hundreds of dollars on Aux lights. With the Mounting Kit, and an On/Off Toggle, the whole set up was under $40 bucks. Double Take Collapsable mirrors (A+) When the bike goes down, the mirrors just fold in on themselves as they mount to RAM mounts. This has been a great investment. Slime Motorcycle air compressor (A+) and Plug Kit for flat tires (tubeless). This combo has gotten us out of trouble in Colombia and Ecuador. Rotopax 1 Gallon Fuel Container (A+). This has come in handy countless of times. From just having the extra security of another 40 miles, to easily filling up our MSR fuel bottles that we use for our stove. Piece of mind, and ours conveniently attaches to the inside of our left pannier rack. Navigation is key while riding, and keeping our phone (so much better than a dedicated GPS) locked in place is essential. After a bit of trial and error with other products, we bought the Perfect Squeeze (A+), and it has kept our phone sturdily in place over potholes, river crossings, and every Latin American speed bump throughout our journey. To avoid snatch-and-grab would-be thieves while we walk around markets, or leave the bike unattended, we have two Big Panther carabiner locks (A+)with a metal bungie. We use them to secure our helmets, boots, and jackets to the bike. I also put a Grip Lock (A+) on the break lever so no one can push the motorcycle from where I left it. Both of these cheap deterrents help prevent people from snagging our stuff. 
Cooking and Camping Our Nemo Losi 2P (A+) tent with the addition of a separate Garage has provided us countless nights of protection from the elements and comfort in a combination with two Nemo Cosmo insulated 25L air pads.
Cooking on the road is also important. The MSR Whisperlight (A+) stove has been unstoppable and seems to be the go-to product for long distance travel. Paired with the MSR liquid fuel bottle, it can burn any fuel, and is pretty much hassle-free with the right maintenance. We do also carry an extra fuel pump, just in case the original acts up. Water sources abroad are not always the cleanest, so to filter the muck, toxic minerals, and E-coli out, we use a Survivor Filter (A). Make sure you bring extra filters with you, after a year of use, the filters need to be changed. But from cooking to making the essence of life, coffee, it has served us very well and kept us healthy. For extended camping, we just fill up our 6 liter MSR Dromedary bag (A+) to have plenty of water on hand.
Enlightened Equipment Accomplice quilt. (A+++) Definitely keeps us warm on cold nights. It packs down small and is extremely light due to the down feathers. This was not a cheap purchase, but was an important one since keeping Marisa warm is a top priority. She often states she loves this quilt more than me.On cold nights we put a Reflective Blanket under our sleeping pads. This reflects our body heat back up, containing it in the tent. I also put six drawstring attachments on it and it doubles as a bike cover. So cheap and so useful.
Life's Little Extras Our G4Free (A+) chairs have been some of our favorite bonus items we have. From sitting down at campsites, on beaches, or even hours-long roadblocks, we have never regretted bringing these with us. They've needed some minor repairs over the past year, but nothing some duct tape can't fix.
Alpinestar Toucon (A+) motorcycle boots. Great protection, and can still hike around in them for short periods of time. We climbed some Mayan ruins in them, I don't suggest that, way too hot. Great all-around boots!
Mountain Hardwear down jacket. (A+) This is another part of our gear that Marisa may love more than me. It keeps us warm on the coldest of days, and doubles as a pillow at night.
A lot of people see our Hip Bags (A+) in photos and ask, "Where did we get those from?" We bought them cheap on Amazon, and there are plenty to choose from. They are great as a purse around Marisa's shoulder, and then strapped to her leg while on the road. I keep my smokes, stickers, and other loose items inside that are constantly needed to be within arm's reach.
Everyone needs a belt anyway, and a great place to stash some emergency cash is in a Money Belt (A+). It has an interior zipper to stash some extra cash. Rok Straps (A+). These aren't breaking news to anyone, but just awesome ways to secure loose ends to the bike such as extra water and food for long trips.
Eno Double Hammock (A+).. We used this all across the States and throughout Central America. We ended up sending it home once we reached Peru because of the cold weather, but man was it great while it lasted.
Electronic Gizmos Phones... so expensive, even more so when waterproof. But for our GPS-dedicated device, we needed one. The Kyocera Duraforce (A+) is the Adventurer's phone, and it has been unbreakable. For less than a hundred bucks, and the addition of Google offline maps, OSM+, iOverlander, and Mapps.me, this is in my opinion the best navigation set-up there is. Waterproof, dust-proof, shock-proof, life-proof. And if stolen, you are only out ~$90.
I charge everything through the tank-bag using a surface SAE Connector I hook directly to my battery, via the PDM. I then route it through my tank-bag via separate Entry Cable Adapter, and then finally convert it to two USB Ports. This set-up lets me charge my phones, Senas, and anything else via USB.
We recently had someone bring us Magnetic Charging Chords and I wish I had them sooner. They take away the wear and tear of constantly plugging in and disconnecting your gadgets. I would definitely check these out, they are cheap and very convenient. Communication on the road is key. And even more so, music. We have the ever so popular Sena Bluetooth Headsets (A+). We love them! Hours on the road have dramatically changed for the better when listening to anything from Guns and Roses to Jack Johnson. We can communicate with each other and also listen to our own music separately. In Marisa's case, it is one big epic movie soundtrack as she meanders around the world.
To charge all the nicknacks when we are wild camping multiple nights in a row, we bought an EasyAcc Portable Charger(A+). It has four USB outlets, and we can charge both of our phones, and both or our Senas at the same time. Great investment. For emergencies only, we have a Rugged Geek Portable Jump Starter (A+). We thankfully have never needed to use this on the trip, but it did successfully jump the bike back to life in the cold midwestern winters.For "action" videos, we splurged and bought a GoPro Hero6 (A+). I know, it's expensive, but man is it worth it. It takes amazing footage and is much more reliable than the cheaper $100 range action cameras, two of which we went through before purchasing the GoPro. Plus, it has amazing stabilization and slow-motion.To save all of the pics and vids, we wanted a solid-state external hard drive. We had purchased the standard disk drives, and they failed us. You definitely do not want that happening and loosing all of your glorious footage!!! We bought a MyDigital SSD (A+) drive, and it has served us flawlessly. For a smaller, more portable thumb-drive, we each have a Samsung 128 gig flash drive (A+). It is perfect for saving documents and other easier access items quickly, and is unbelievably small.
As a middleweight camera, not a DSLR but not a standard point and shoot, the Panasonic Lumix G7 4k mirrorless camera (A+) has been an amazing piece of hardware that has captured all of the great images that we have taken along the way. I love this camera.
Storage Right, left, and top soft luggage cases by Mosko Moto (A+) I love these bags! When the bike falls, they act like airbags and are able to survive the fall relatively unharmed. We have had to duct tape some fraying straps, but that's because we put these bags through absolute hell. And they truly are waterproof. We switched to these after our hard cases broke from a fall in the States.
The Pelican Hard Case (A-) was left at home, but did make for a nice set-up for shorter trips. This is a large, robust case that had served us well prior to the trip.
KTM Tank Bag. (B-) We obviously love KTM, and this matches the bike, but after 3 years of use the zipper broke. I fixed it with my amazing seamstress abilities and it is still in use!
KTM 1190 Specific Rumbux crash bars and skid plate (A+). I love this set up, and admire the abuse it can take.
Powercell pod air intakes (A+), a critical upgrade. They work amazingly, and the KTM Powershop in Bogotá, Colombia, said they had never seen an 1190 with such a clean airbox as ours! We highly recommend these.
Puig Tall Windshield (A-) The tall windshield makes me think I may decapitate myself if I fall forward while riding off-road. Hopefully it will be a nice clean cut under the chin of my helmet, severing my head without pain or discomfort. But, it is nice on the highways. I like the Puig much better compared to the Genuine KTM 1190 Adventure Tall Windscreen (C).
KTM heated grips (C) If its 65 degrees, and you want it to be 67 degrees, they work awesome... for any real cold weather, they don't really do all that much, even when cranked on high.
Personal Gear - Tim KTM/Shuberth modular helmet. (A) This is a recent purchase in Costa Rica because my old Fulmer modular helmet was old, and it may be a half a size too big. My new helmet fits well, though I had to make some padding adjustments since I was not used to such a tight fit. It's a great helmet but can get a little hot.
Spidi H2Out motorcycle jacket (C) It does its job taking the brunt of the dirt, dust, grime, and rain. But the original waterproof liner was not 100%, and the thermal layer attached awkwardly. It does have nice basic shoulder and elbow protection, but we did scrap the thermal and waterproof layers for a down jacket and rain jacket with a hood that could be worn separately from the touring jacket.
Sedici motorcycle pants (C) Same as above... the waterproof zip-in liner was a joke. It had a wide "V" where the material separated at the crotch, right in the spot where most of the water funnels while riding through a rain storm. We have since purchased heavy duty rain pants. Ascend rain jacket and pants. (F) At first I thought this was a great replacements for the not-so-funtional waterproof sections of the touring jacket and pants. Then Marisa started complaining about getting wet and exchanged hers for a cheap plastic version in Colombia. Then here in Ecuador, we got into such a horrible storm, that I was cold and wet for hours afterwards, and have since ditched my Ascend rain gear. I've now purchased a local plastic set-up that I hope will be better.
Every type of glove that was ever made I have bought, none of them are waterproof. I may have a problem with buying gloves.
Personal Gear - Marisa Schuberth modular helmet (A-) Marisa says it can get hot, the vents do not provide a difference in airflow. Besides that, she loves it. It blocks a great amount of the outside noise, and is comfortable.Spidi motorcycle jacket (C) Marisa's jacket also came with useless liners.
Joe Rocket motorcycle pants (C) Didn't come with any waterproof liner, but is great for its protective padding. And with the addition of rain pants underneath, serves well in all types of weather. There is the added frustration that it's nearly impossible to find pants the fit women properly, and these do not. Plus, the front buttons never stay snapped.
Ascend rain jacket (F) She says it was not waterproof. So she ended up buying cheap plastic cyclist jacket and pants in Colombia, and though they are hideous, they work great. She wears the rain pants under her motorcycle pants, but puts the jacket over her touring jacket and says that breaks the wind better.
Mountain Hardwear down jacket (A+) Packs down small, is light, and most importantly, is warm. Only problem is it's hard to wash.BMW Allround waterproof boots (A+) Marisa was not really a fan of her old boots (BILT), so she purchased a pair of very expensive, but very comfortable boots that she has been able to hike in and wear daily in cold and wet weather.
I of course have to plug my book as well: Maiden Voyage. Within it I express some of the miseries we experienced before we had the above items.
I hope that you may have found some of this information useful. Please let us know what your must-have gear is, and any additional input on the above items.
The following is a list of the things we brought with us and why. We have not received any discounts or free merchandise for promotional purposes. We purchased these items with our own money, and due to that fact, better-quality and more expensive items may exist out there. These are simply our honest, unfiltered opinions on what we decided to bring on our trip.
Universal Bike Enhancements No matter what bike you have, these are great improvements whatever lays ahead. The links to the items are highlighted in Green.We have AirHawk cushions (B+) for both seats as I'm in a never-ending quest to make my ass more comfortable. At first I had to slightly customize the AirHawk cover to allow me to stuff a scarf in the front to better support my nether area that needed support... In Guatemala (because a dog ate my AirHawk), I purchased a newer model that has a space cut out for that area. Barkbuster hand-guards (A+). They haven't snapped off yet after countless of drops, and a couple of power slides. A great investment to keep your levers safe. PDM power distribution module (A+). I upgraded our electrical system with outlets all around the bike to plug in our heated gear (that we have since sent back home), charge our phones and GPS, etc. Great device, simple to install.
Auxbeam 4" auxiliary lights (A+) - A cheap ($20) set from Amazon, have not failed me yet over 7 months through rain and hail. I personally do not see a need to spend hundreds of dollars on Aux lights. With the Mounting Kit, and an On/Off Toggle, the whole set up was under $40 bucks. Double Take Collapsable mirrors (A+) When the bike goes down, the mirrors just fold in on themselves as they mount to RAM mounts. This has been a great investment. Slime Motorcycle air compressor (A+) and Plug Kit for flat tires (tubeless). This combo has gotten us out of trouble in Colombia and Ecuador. Rotopax 1 Gallon Fuel Container (A+). This has come in handy countless of times. From just having the extra security of another 40 miles, to easily filling up our MSR fuel bottles that we use for our stove. Piece of mind, and ours conveniently attaches to the inside of our left pannier rack. Navigation is key while riding, and keeping our phone (so much better than a dedicated GPS) locked in place is essential. After a bit of trial and error with other products, we bought the Perfect Squeeze (A+), and it has kept our phone sturdily in place over potholes, river crossings, and every Latin American speed bump throughout our journey. To avoid snatch-and-grab would-be thieves while we walk around markets, or leave the bike unattended, we have two Big Panther carabiner locks (A+)with a metal bungie. We use them to secure our helmets, boots, and jackets to the bike. I also put a Grip Lock (A+) on the break lever so no one can push the motorcycle from where I left it. Both of these cheap deterrents help prevent people from snagging our stuff.
Cooking and Camping Our Nemo Losi 2P (A+) tent with the addition of a separate Garage has provided us countless nights of protection from the elements and comfort in a combination with two Nemo Cosmo insulated 25L air pads. Cooking on the road is also important. The MSR Whisperlight (A+) stove has been unstoppable and seems to be the go-to product for long distance travel. Paired with the MSR liquid fuel bottle, it can burn any fuel, and is pretty much hassle-free with the right maintenance. We do also carry an extra fuel pump, just in case the original acts up. Water sources abroad are not always the cleanest, so to filter the muck, toxic minerals, and E-coli out, we use a Survivor Filter (A). Make sure you bring extra filters with you, after a year of use, the filters need to be changed. But from cooking to making the essence of life, coffee, it has served us very well and kept us healthy. For extended camping, we just fill up our 6 liter MSR Dromedary bag (A+) to have plenty of water on hand.
Enlightened Equipment Accomplice quilt. (A+++) Definitely keeps us warm on cold nights. It packs down small and is extremely light due to the down feathers. This was not a cheap purchase, but was an important one since keeping Marisa warm is a top priority. She often states she loves this quilt more than me.On cold nights we put a Reflective Blanket under our sleeping pads. This reflects our body heat back up, containing it in the tent. I also put six drawstring attachments on it and it doubles as a bike cover. So cheap and so useful.
Life's Little Extras Our G4Free (A+) chairs have been some of our favorite bonus items we have. From sitting down at campsites, on beaches, or even hours-long roadblocks, we have never regretted bringing these with us. They've needed some minor repairs over the past year, but nothing some duct tape can't fix.Alpinestar Toucon (A+) motorcycle boots. Great protection, and can still hike around in them for short periods of time. We climbed some Mayan ruins in them, I don't suggest that, way too hot. Great all-around boots!
Mountain Hardwear down jacket. (A+) This is another part of our gear that Marisa may love more than me. It keeps us warm on the coldest of days, and doubles as a pillow at night.
A lot of people see our Hip Bags (A+) in photos and ask, "Where did we get those from?" We bought them cheap on Amazon, and there are plenty to choose from. They are great as a purse around Marisa's shoulder, and then strapped to her leg while on the road. I keep my smokes, stickers, and other loose items inside that are constantly needed to be within arm's reach.
Everyone needs a belt anyway, and a great place to stash some emergency cash is in a Money Belt (A+). It has an interior zipper to stash some extra cash. Rok Straps (A+). These aren't breaking news to anyone, but just awesome ways to secure loose ends to the bike such as extra water and food for long trips.
Eno Double Hammock (A+).. We used this all across the States and throughout Central America. We ended up sending it home once we reached Peru because of the cold weather, but man was it great while it lasted.
Electronic Gizmos Phones... so expensive, even more so when waterproof. But for our GPS-dedicated device, we needed one. The Kyocera Duraforce (A+) is the Adventurer's phone, and it has been unbreakable. For less than a hundred bucks, and the addition of Google offline maps, OSM+, iOverlander, and Mapps.me, this is in my opinion the best navigation set-up there is. Waterproof, dust-proof, shock-proof, life-proof. And if stolen, you are only out ~$90.I charge everything through the tank-bag using a surface SAE Connector I hook directly to my battery, via the PDM. I then route it through my tank-bag via separate Entry Cable Adapter, and then finally convert it to two USB Ports. This set-up lets me charge my phones, Senas, and anything else via USB.
We recently had someone bring us Magnetic Charging Chords and I wish I had them sooner. They take away the wear and tear of constantly plugging in and disconnecting your gadgets. I would definitely check these out, they are cheap and very convenient. Communication on the road is key. And even more so, music. We have the ever so popular Sena Bluetooth Headsets (A+). We love them! Hours on the road have dramatically changed for the better when listening to anything from Guns and Roses to Jack Johnson. We can communicate with each other and also listen to our own music separately. In Marisa's case, it is one big epic movie soundtrack as she meanders around the world.
To charge all the nicknacks when we are wild camping multiple nights in a row, we bought an EasyAcc Portable Charger(A+). It has four USB outlets, and we can charge both of our phones, and both or our Senas at the same time. Great investment. For emergencies only, we have a Rugged Geek Portable Jump Starter (A+). We thankfully have never needed to use this on the trip, but it did successfully jump the bike back to life in the cold midwestern winters.For "action" videos, we splurged and bought a GoPro Hero6 (A+). I know, it's expensive, but man is it worth it. It takes amazing footage and is much more reliable than the cheaper $100 range action cameras, two of which we went through before purchasing the GoPro. Plus, it has amazing stabilization and slow-motion.To save all of the pics and vids, we wanted a solid-state external hard drive. We had purchased the standard disk drives, and they failed us. You definitely do not want that happening and loosing all of your glorious footage!!! We bought a MyDigital SSD (A+) drive, and it has served us flawlessly. For a smaller, more portable thumb-drive, we each have a Samsung 128 gig flash drive (A+). It is perfect for saving documents and other easier access items quickly, and is unbelievably small.
As a middleweight camera, not a DSLR but not a standard point and shoot, the Panasonic Lumix G7 4k mirrorless camera (A+) has been an amazing piece of hardware that has captured all of the great images that we have taken along the way. I love this camera.
Storage Right, left, and top soft luggage cases by Mosko Moto (A+) I love these bags! When the bike falls, they act like airbags and are able to survive the fall relatively unharmed. We have had to duct tape some fraying straps, but that's because we put these bags through absolute hell. And they truly are waterproof. We switched to these after our hard cases broke from a fall in the States.The Pelican Hard Case (A-) was left at home, but did make for a nice set-up for shorter trips. This is a large, robust case that had served us well prior to the trip.
KTM Tank Bag. (B-) We obviously love KTM, and this matches the bike, but after 3 years of use the zipper broke. I fixed it with my amazing seamstress abilities and it is still in use!
KTM 1190 Specific Rumbux crash bars and skid plate (A+). I love this set up, and admire the abuse it can take.Powercell pod air intakes (A+), a critical upgrade. They work amazingly, and the KTM Powershop in Bogotá, Colombia, said they had never seen an 1190 with such a clean airbox as ours! We highly recommend these.
Puig Tall Windshield (A-) The tall windshield makes me think I may decapitate myself if I fall forward while riding off-road. Hopefully it will be a nice clean cut under the chin of my helmet, severing my head without pain or discomfort. But, it is nice on the highways. I like the Puig much better compared to the Genuine KTM 1190 Adventure Tall Windscreen (C).
KTM heated grips (C) If its 65 degrees, and you want it to be 67 degrees, they work awesome... for any real cold weather, they don't really do all that much, even when cranked on high.
Personal Gear - Tim KTM/Shuberth modular helmet. (A) This is a recent purchase in Costa Rica because my old Fulmer modular helmet was old, and it may be a half a size too big. My new helmet fits well, though I had to make some padding adjustments since I was not used to such a tight fit. It's a great helmet but can get a little hot.Spidi H2Out motorcycle jacket (C) It does its job taking the brunt of the dirt, dust, grime, and rain. But the original waterproof liner was not 100%, and the thermal layer attached awkwardly. It does have nice basic shoulder and elbow protection, but we did scrap the thermal and waterproof layers for a down jacket and rain jacket with a hood that could be worn separately from the touring jacket.
Sedici motorcycle pants (C) Same as above... the waterproof zip-in liner was a joke. It had a wide "V" where the material separated at the crotch, right in the spot where most of the water funnels while riding through a rain storm. We have since purchased heavy duty rain pants. Ascend rain jacket and pants. (F) At first I thought this was a great replacements for the not-so-funtional waterproof sections of the touring jacket and pants. Then Marisa started complaining about getting wet and exchanged hers for a cheap plastic version in Colombia. Then here in Ecuador, we got into such a horrible storm, that I was cold and wet for hours afterwards, and have since ditched my Ascend rain gear. I've now purchased a local plastic set-up that I hope will be better.
Every type of glove that was ever made I have bought, none of them are waterproof. I may have a problem with buying gloves.
Personal Gear - Marisa Schuberth modular helmet (A-) Marisa says it can get hot, the vents do not provide a difference in airflow. Besides that, she loves it. It blocks a great amount of the outside noise, and is comfortable.Spidi motorcycle jacket (C) Marisa's jacket also came with useless liners.Joe Rocket motorcycle pants (C) Didn't come with any waterproof liner, but is great for its protective padding. And with the addition of rain pants underneath, serves well in all types of weather. There is the added frustration that it's nearly impossible to find pants the fit women properly, and these do not. Plus, the front buttons never stay snapped.
Ascend rain jacket (F) She says it was not waterproof. So she ended up buying cheap plastic cyclist jacket and pants in Colombia, and though they are hideous, they work great. She wears the rain pants under her motorcycle pants, but puts the jacket over her touring jacket and says that breaks the wind better.
Mountain Hardwear down jacket (A+) Packs down small, is light, and most importantly, is warm. Only problem is it's hard to wash.BMW Allround waterproof boots (A+) Marisa was not really a fan of her old boots (BILT), so she purchased a pair of very expensive, but very comfortable boots that she has been able to hike in and wear daily in cold and wet weather.
I of course have to plug my book as well: Maiden Voyage. Within it I express some of the miseries we experienced before we had the above items.I hope that you may have found some of this information useful. Please let us know what your must-have gear is, and any additional input on the above items.
December 14, 2018
Dec. 14, 2018 - Rainbow Mountains and Floating Islands
By Marisa 
After exploring the world of the Inca around Cusco and Machu Picchu, we knew that our time in Peru was coming to a close. But before we headed into Bolivia (arrived today!), there were a couple of things left in Peru that we wanted to see and get done. 
Cezar, Tim, Nicolai, and their bikes at the Bolivian Consulate, Cusco, Peru. First and foremost, and definitely not fun at all, we needed to get our Bolivian visa from the consulate in Cusco. This extremely expensive visa ($160 + $10 processing fee per person!) is only required for Americans, as it seems we do the same to Bolivians, so it's a reciprocal charge.
Technically, the whole visa process can be done at the border, but we wanted to just get it out of the way ahead of time. So after more than an hour at the Bolivian Consulate of filling out an online form, printing proof of a booked hotel, writing up an itinerary, getting passport pictures, and paying $340 in US dollars cash (there's more that I won't get into), we finally got our gorgeous and hard-earned visas. And best of all, we met a couple of awesome motorcyclist Romanians there too, Cezar and Nicolai.
To be fair, what we had to go through is nothing compared to what Bolivians and people of many other nationalities have to do to get into the US, if they can get in at all. So I really should not complain.
With our visas in our passports, we were ready to leave Cusco, and headed south toward the city of Arequipa where a new back tire was awaiting us. But just a day's ride from Cusco was the Instagram-worthy tourist spot called Rainbow Mountain, or locally known as La Montaña de los Siete Colores or Vinicunca. It does look beautiful in all the pictures, so we thought we'd give it a go. 
Taking horses up to Rainbow Mountain, Peru. We stayed the night in a small village near the mountain called Pitumarca where sheep and alpacas were herded through the streets and the women dressed traditionally in wide skirts, tasseled hats, and long braids. From there we left in the morning and enjoyed the gorgeous ride to the mountain trail base. After paying our ten Soles entrance fee (~$3), we headed up the mountain on horseback for 50 Soles (~$15) a person since I wasn't too excited to do the steep hike at high altitude (it starts at 14,000 ft/4,300 meters, ends at 17,060 ft/5,200 meters). 
The side we came up on: nobody there. 
The other side: a great migration of tourists. Though we were practically the only people on the trail, once we got to the ridge of Rainbow Mountain, there were tons of tourists who had come up the other side, all taking buses from Cusco. Despite the amount of people, the views were stunning with blue skies, beige stones, green fields, and red earth striped with yellow and turquoise minerals. We could even clearly see the snowy peak of the sacred Ausangate mountain. 
Tim and Ausangate Mountain in the background, Peru. 
Original image. 
Photoshopped image. Above I've put both the photoshopped picture of Rainbow Mountain and the untouched one for you to compare. Yes, unfiltered doesn't look as awesome, but in all honesty, pictures don't do it justice because it's such an incredible feeling to stand there and admire such superb natural beauty in person. Maybe we were just lightheaded from the climb, but the view impressed me, and I'm so glad we went. 
The trail back from Rainbow Mountain, Peru. Further on our way to Arequipa, we passed by a beautiful spot quite by accident called Tres Cañones, or Three Canyons. It was on a dirt road with a few parts that were somewhat washed out, but the ride was definitely worth it, not just for the Three Canyons view, but the amazing ruins nearby (Mauk'allacta) and strange rock formations following it. I'm sure in the dry season this road would be just fine, but it was so much fun to ride, I would recommend it at any time of year for those who enjoy going off-road. 
Tres Cañones, Peru. 
This was not the worst of the "puddles". Yeah our feet got a little wet. Our last stop before Arequipa was Chivay, the tourist gateway to Colca Canyon. Unfortunately, even though there is a road going along this extremely deep canyon, you have to pay 70 Soles a person to access it. Tim and I weren't going to hike in anyway because of my foot and we had a date to catch with our new tire in Arequipa (our old one had a slow annoying leak). So we sadly skipped the canyon and went on to Arequipa.
The road from high-altitude Chivay to warm and sunny Arequipa was twisty and paved, but not as spectacular as I'd hoped. Desert and trash was the view throughout, and we had to dodge tons of trucks making their way to this concrete-producing city outside of Chivay:
Looks like something made by jawas on Tatooine. Star Wars fans, you know what I mean. At last we arrived in Arequipa. It's Peru's second-largest city after Lima, but thankfully it did not compare to the grimy urban mayhem that is Lima. Instead, Arequipa has a nice colonial center with lovely stone buildings made from the white volcanic rock of the nearby Misti Volcano. It was also where we met the fine people of Peru Moto Tours who helped us get our brand new tire (MotoZ Tractionaire, best rear tire in our opinion) and new brakes. 
The quaint streets of Arequipa. 
Basilica Cathedral of Arequipa, Peru. 
Tim and Eglé (pronounced Egg-lay) We also had the fortune of meeting up with a traveling motorcyclist who we'd been following for a long time: Eglé, and had a great time in Arequipa having beers and even splurging on some Starbucks coffee with her.
From Arequipa, we headed toward Bolivia on the main road to Puno, which was definitely nothing to rave about. It was nicely paved (until a gravel shortcut we took to skip Juliaca), but boring. Best part about it was that there were vicuñas everywhere, the llama's endangered wild cousin.
Road to nowhere? Nope. Road to Puno, Peru. Finally, we came to our last stop in Peru and a place with one of the weirdest geographic names ever: Lake Titicaca. We even heard a local joke that since the lake is split between countries, Peru has the titi side and Bolivia has the caca side (though they say the opposite in Bolivia of course). But seventh-grade humor aside, it was originally pronounced Titi-haha, and it's been a dream of mine to see this high-altitude blue gem of a lake with its unique floating islands.
Made of the totora reed and its roots, these islands were first constructed as a way for the Aymará-speaking people to escape the invading Incas, and have been a tradition in the region ever since. They even make their houses and boats out of this buoyant material.
One of the many floating islands and boats around Uros, Lake Titicaca, Peru. I'll admit, the tour we went on to see these islands was the most touristy thing we've done yet. Authentic would not be a word I could use to describe this, but as these are islands and I don't have a boat, it was the only way I could see to get out there.
And the extra hour and a half ride it took to visit the non-floating island of Taquile was not worth it in my mind (and that was on the fast boat). Taquile is just a regular island, but I did enjoy getting a glimpse of the local culture of Quechua-speaking people that live there. And I understand that the money spent does go to the preservation of these endangered communities. But if I had to do it again, I would try to stay overnight on a floating island to get a more authentic experience.
Me dancing with a local man of Taquile Island who is allegedly 105 years old. That was yesterday, and today we are still on the shores of Lake Titicaca, but this time we are in Copacabana on the Bolivian side. Because we'd gotten our visas prior, crossing the border wasn't too bad, and now we're catching up on some computer work before heading into the interior of Bolivia, our 12th country!
We'll keep you posted. And if you want the latest photos, videos, and updates, don't forget to follow us on Facebook and Instagram.
Until next time...
Me on Taquile Island. The blues here are unbelievable.
After exploring the world of the Inca around Cusco and Machu Picchu, we knew that our time in Peru was coming to a close. But before we headed into Bolivia (arrived today!), there were a couple of things left in Peru that we wanted to see and get done. 
Cezar, Tim, Nicolai, and their bikes at the Bolivian Consulate, Cusco, Peru. First and foremost, and definitely not fun at all, we needed to get our Bolivian visa from the consulate in Cusco. This extremely expensive visa ($160 + $10 processing fee per person!) is only required for Americans, as it seems we do the same to Bolivians, so it's a reciprocal charge.Technically, the whole visa process can be done at the border, but we wanted to just get it out of the way ahead of time. So after more than an hour at the Bolivian Consulate of filling out an online form, printing proof of a booked hotel, writing up an itinerary, getting passport pictures, and paying $340 in US dollars cash (there's more that I won't get into), we finally got our gorgeous and hard-earned visas. And best of all, we met a couple of awesome motorcyclist Romanians there too, Cezar and Nicolai.
To be fair, what we had to go through is nothing compared to what Bolivians and people of many other nationalities have to do to get into the US, if they can get in at all. So I really should not complain.
With our visas in our passports, we were ready to leave Cusco, and headed south toward the city of Arequipa where a new back tire was awaiting us. But just a day's ride from Cusco was the Instagram-worthy tourist spot called Rainbow Mountain, or locally known as La Montaña de los Siete Colores or Vinicunca. It does look beautiful in all the pictures, so we thought we'd give it a go. 
Taking horses up to Rainbow Mountain, Peru. We stayed the night in a small village near the mountain called Pitumarca where sheep and alpacas were herded through the streets and the women dressed traditionally in wide skirts, tasseled hats, and long braids. From there we left in the morning and enjoyed the gorgeous ride to the mountain trail base. After paying our ten Soles entrance fee (~$3), we headed up the mountain on horseback for 50 Soles (~$15) a person since I wasn't too excited to do the steep hike at high altitude (it starts at 14,000 ft/4,300 meters, ends at 17,060 ft/5,200 meters). 
The side we came up on: nobody there. 
The other side: a great migration of tourists. Though we were practically the only people on the trail, once we got to the ridge of Rainbow Mountain, there were tons of tourists who had come up the other side, all taking buses from Cusco. Despite the amount of people, the views were stunning with blue skies, beige stones, green fields, and red earth striped with yellow and turquoise minerals. We could even clearly see the snowy peak of the sacred Ausangate mountain. 
Tim and Ausangate Mountain in the background, Peru. 
Original image. 
Photoshopped image. Above I've put both the photoshopped picture of Rainbow Mountain and the untouched one for you to compare. Yes, unfiltered doesn't look as awesome, but in all honesty, pictures don't do it justice because it's such an incredible feeling to stand there and admire such superb natural beauty in person. Maybe we were just lightheaded from the climb, but the view impressed me, and I'm so glad we went. 
The trail back from Rainbow Mountain, Peru. Further on our way to Arequipa, we passed by a beautiful spot quite by accident called Tres Cañones, or Three Canyons. It was on a dirt road with a few parts that were somewhat washed out, but the ride was definitely worth it, not just for the Three Canyons view, but the amazing ruins nearby (Mauk'allacta) and strange rock formations following it. I'm sure in the dry season this road would be just fine, but it was so much fun to ride, I would recommend it at any time of year for those who enjoy going off-road. 
Tres Cañones, Peru. 
This was not the worst of the "puddles". Yeah our feet got a little wet. Our last stop before Arequipa was Chivay, the tourist gateway to Colca Canyon. Unfortunately, even though there is a road going along this extremely deep canyon, you have to pay 70 Soles a person to access it. Tim and I weren't going to hike in anyway because of my foot and we had a date to catch with our new tire in Arequipa (our old one had a slow annoying leak). So we sadly skipped the canyon and went on to Arequipa.The road from high-altitude Chivay to warm and sunny Arequipa was twisty and paved, but not as spectacular as I'd hoped. Desert and trash was the view throughout, and we had to dodge tons of trucks making their way to this concrete-producing city outside of Chivay:
Looks like something made by jawas on Tatooine. Star Wars fans, you know what I mean. At last we arrived in Arequipa. It's Peru's second-largest city after Lima, but thankfully it did not compare to the grimy urban mayhem that is Lima. Instead, Arequipa has a nice colonial center with lovely stone buildings made from the white volcanic rock of the nearby Misti Volcano. It was also where we met the fine people of Peru Moto Tours who helped us get our brand new tire (MotoZ Tractionaire, best rear tire in our opinion) and new brakes. 
The quaint streets of Arequipa. 
Basilica Cathedral of Arequipa, Peru. 
Tim and Eglé (pronounced Egg-lay) We also had the fortune of meeting up with a traveling motorcyclist who we'd been following for a long time: Eglé, and had a great time in Arequipa having beers and even splurging on some Starbucks coffee with her.From Arequipa, we headed toward Bolivia on the main road to Puno, which was definitely nothing to rave about. It was nicely paved (until a gravel shortcut we took to skip Juliaca), but boring. Best part about it was that there were vicuñas everywhere, the llama's endangered wild cousin.
Road to nowhere? Nope. Road to Puno, Peru. Finally, we came to our last stop in Peru and a place with one of the weirdest geographic names ever: Lake Titicaca. We even heard a local joke that since the lake is split between countries, Peru has the titi side and Bolivia has the caca side (though they say the opposite in Bolivia of course). But seventh-grade humor aside, it was originally pronounced Titi-haha, and it's been a dream of mine to see this high-altitude blue gem of a lake with its unique floating islands.Made of the totora reed and its roots, these islands were first constructed as a way for the Aymará-speaking people to escape the invading Incas, and have been a tradition in the region ever since. They even make their houses and boats out of this buoyant material.
One of the many floating islands and boats around Uros, Lake Titicaca, Peru. I'll admit, the tour we went on to see these islands was the most touristy thing we've done yet. Authentic would not be a word I could use to describe this, but as these are islands and I don't have a boat, it was the only way I could see to get out there.And the extra hour and a half ride it took to visit the non-floating island of Taquile was not worth it in my mind (and that was on the fast boat). Taquile is just a regular island, but I did enjoy getting a glimpse of the local culture of Quechua-speaking people that live there. And I understand that the money spent does go to the preservation of these endangered communities. But if I had to do it again, I would try to stay overnight on a floating island to get a more authentic experience.
Me dancing with a local man of Taquile Island who is allegedly 105 years old. That was yesterday, and today we are still on the shores of Lake Titicaca, but this time we are in Copacabana on the Bolivian side. Because we'd gotten our visas prior, crossing the border wasn't too bad, and now we're catching up on some computer work before heading into the interior of Bolivia, our 12th country!We'll keep you posted. And if you want the latest photos, videos, and updates, don't forget to follow us on Facebook and Instagram.
Until next time...
Me on Taquile Island. The blues here are unbelievable.
December 10, 2018
Making a List, and Checking it Twice
By Tim Notier Here is a brief Christmas idea list for those motorcycle enthusiasts in your life. These are some of our favorite items which have served us well on our round-the-world trip and we highly recommend. We are not sponsored by any of the products below, and bought each item ourselves with our hard-earned money. These are simply our fair, honest opinions after putting them through hell for a year and four months.
Stocking Stuffers Some great items that wont break the bank. We love them all, and some may call them "luxury" items... but we are glad to have them. The links to Amazon are highlighted in Green. Our G4Free chairs have been some of our favorite bonus items we have. From sitting down at campsites, on beaches, or even hours-long roadblocks, we have never regretted bringing these with us.
Navigation is key while riding, and keeping our phone (so much better than a dedicated GPS) locked in place is essential. After a bit of trial and error with other products, we bought the Perfect Squeeze, and it has kept our phone sturdily in place over potholes, river crossings, and every Latin American speed bump throughout our journey. 
Phones... so expensive, even more so when waterproof. But, for our GPS-dedicated device, we needed one. The Kyocera Duraforce has been unbreakable. For less than a hundred bucks, and the addition of Google offline maps, OSM+, iOverlander, and Mapps.me, this is in my opinion the best navigation set-up there is. Waterproof, dust-proof, shock-proof, life-proof. And if stolen, you are only out ~$90.
Communication on the road is key. And even more so, music. We have the ever so popular Sena Bluetooth Headsets. We love them! Hours on the road have dramatically changed for the better when listening to anything from Guns and Roses to Jack Johnson. We can communicate with each other and also listen to our own music separately. In Marisa's case, it is one big epic movie soundtrack as she meanders around the world.
To charge all the nicknacks when we are wild camping multiple nights in a row, we bought an EasyAcc Portable Charger. It has four USB outlets, and we can charge both of our phones, and both or our Senas at the same time. Great investment. For emergencies only, we have a Rugged Geek Portable Jump Starter. We thankfully have never needed to use this on the trip, but it did successfully jump the bike back to life in the cold midwestern winters.
Cooking on the road is also important. The MSR Whisperlight stove has been unstoppable and seems to be the go-to product for long distance travel. Paired with the MSR liquid fuel bottle, it can burn any fuel, and is pretty much hassle-free with the right maintenance. We do also carry an extra fuel pump, just in case the original acts up.
Water sources abroad are not always the cleanest, so to filter the muck, toxic minerals, and E-coli out, we use a Survivor Filter. Make sure you bring extra filters with you, after a year of use the filters need to be changed. But from cooking to making the essence of life, coffee, it has served us very well and kept us healthy. For extended camping, we just fill up our 6 liter MSR Dromedary bag to have plenty of water on hand. To avoid snatch-and-grab would-be thieves while we walk around markets, or leave the bike unattended, we have two Big Panther carabiner locks with a metal bungie. We use them to secure our helmets, boots, and jackets to the bike. I also put a Grip Lock on the break lever so no one can push the motorcycle from where I left it. Both of these cheap deterrents help prevent people from snagging our stuff. A lot of people see our Hip Bags in photos and ask, "Where did we get those from?" We bought them cheap on Amazon, and there are plenty to choose from. They are great as a purse around Marisa's shoulder, and then strapped to her leg while on the road. I keep my smokes, stickers, and other loose items inside that are constantly needed to be within arms reach.
The "They have been really good" List As a middleweight camera, not a DSLR but not a standard point and shoot, the Panasonic Lumix G7 4k mirrorless camera has been an amazing piece of hardware that has captured all of the great images that we have taken along the way. I love this camera. 
For "action" videos, we splurged and bought a GoPro Hero6 (I know, it's expensive, but man is it worth it). It takes amazing footage and is much more reliable than the cheaper $100 range action cameras, two of which we went through before purchasing the GoPro. Plus, it has amazing stabilization and slow-motion.To save all of the pics and vids, we wanted a solid-state external hard drive. We had purchased the standard disk drives, and they failed us. You definitely do not want that happening and loosing all of your glorious footage!!! We bought a MyDigital SSD drive, and it has served us flawlessly. For a smaller, more portable thumb-drive, we each have a Samsung 128 gig flash drive. It is perfect for saving documents and other easier access items quickly, and is unbelievably small. To upload all the images, and create our movies from all of our footage, we also wanted a SSD computer. Splurge #2... we bought a Macbook Air. With the bonus of iMovie, I am very happy with all of its capabilities, and knowing that it can bounce around and still function like the day we got it. Communication and tracking is both important to us as well as to our families, so we bought a Garmin inReach Explorer. With our data plan, we've been able to track our journey every turn of the wheel. We can also text (SMS) from anywhere in the world. And if something horrible were to happen, there is also an SOS button that will send the troops directly to our location. I think it's the best out there. I personally can vouch for each and every one of these items. Some things on this trip have fallen apart or have not served us well, but not these things. They are travel-tried and true, and I'm sure that it would make any adventure motorcyclist grin from ear to ear to unwrap one of these gifts.
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone. Please let us know your experiences with the gear you use in your travels, and if you have any additional input on the items above.
Stocking Stuffers Some great items that wont break the bank. We love them all, and some may call them "luxury" items... but we are glad to have them. The links to Amazon are highlighted in Green. Our G4Free chairs have been some of our favorite bonus items we have. From sitting down at campsites, on beaches, or even hours-long roadblocks, we have never regretted bringing these with us.
Navigation is key while riding, and keeping our phone (so much better than a dedicated GPS) locked in place is essential. After a bit of trial and error with other products, we bought the Perfect Squeeze, and it has kept our phone sturdily in place over potholes, river crossings, and every Latin American speed bump throughout our journey. 
Phones... so expensive, even more so when waterproof. But, for our GPS-dedicated device, we needed one. The Kyocera Duraforce has been unbreakable. For less than a hundred bucks, and the addition of Google offline maps, OSM+, iOverlander, and Mapps.me, this is in my opinion the best navigation set-up there is. Waterproof, dust-proof, shock-proof, life-proof. And if stolen, you are only out ~$90.Communication on the road is key. And even more so, music. We have the ever so popular Sena Bluetooth Headsets. We love them! Hours on the road have dramatically changed for the better when listening to anything from Guns and Roses to Jack Johnson. We can communicate with each other and also listen to our own music separately. In Marisa's case, it is one big epic movie soundtrack as she meanders around the world.
To charge all the nicknacks when we are wild camping multiple nights in a row, we bought an EasyAcc Portable Charger. It has four USB outlets, and we can charge both of our phones, and both or our Senas at the same time. Great investment. For emergencies only, we have a Rugged Geek Portable Jump Starter. We thankfully have never needed to use this on the trip, but it did successfully jump the bike back to life in the cold midwestern winters.
Cooking on the road is also important. The MSR Whisperlight stove has been unstoppable and seems to be the go-to product for long distance travel. Paired with the MSR liquid fuel bottle, it can burn any fuel, and is pretty much hassle-free with the right maintenance. We do also carry an extra fuel pump, just in case the original acts up. Water sources abroad are not always the cleanest, so to filter the muck, toxic minerals, and E-coli out, we use a Survivor Filter. Make sure you bring extra filters with you, after a year of use the filters need to be changed. But from cooking to making the essence of life, coffee, it has served us very well and kept us healthy. For extended camping, we just fill up our 6 liter MSR Dromedary bag to have plenty of water on hand. To avoid snatch-and-grab would-be thieves while we walk around markets, or leave the bike unattended, we have two Big Panther carabiner locks with a metal bungie. We use them to secure our helmets, boots, and jackets to the bike. I also put a Grip Lock on the break lever so no one can push the motorcycle from where I left it. Both of these cheap deterrents help prevent people from snagging our stuff. A lot of people see our Hip Bags in photos and ask, "Where did we get those from?" We bought them cheap on Amazon, and there are plenty to choose from. They are great as a purse around Marisa's shoulder, and then strapped to her leg while on the road. I keep my smokes, stickers, and other loose items inside that are constantly needed to be within arms reach.
The "They have been really good" List As a middleweight camera, not a DSLR but not a standard point and shoot, the Panasonic Lumix G7 4k mirrorless camera has been an amazing piece of hardware that has captured all of the great images that we have taken along the way. I love this camera. For "action" videos, we splurged and bought a GoPro Hero6 (I know, it's expensive, but man is it worth it). It takes amazing footage and is much more reliable than the cheaper $100 range action cameras, two of which we went through before purchasing the GoPro. Plus, it has amazing stabilization and slow-motion.To save all of the pics and vids, we wanted a solid-state external hard drive. We had purchased the standard disk drives, and they failed us. You definitely do not want that happening and loosing all of your glorious footage!!! We bought a MyDigital SSD drive, and it has served us flawlessly. For a smaller, more portable thumb-drive, we each have a Samsung 128 gig flash drive. It is perfect for saving documents and other easier access items quickly, and is unbelievably small. To upload all the images, and create our movies from all of our footage, we also wanted a SSD computer. Splurge #2... we bought a Macbook Air. With the bonus of iMovie, I am very happy with all of its capabilities, and knowing that it can bounce around and still function like the day we got it. Communication and tracking is both important to us as well as to our families, so we bought a Garmin inReach Explorer. With our data plan, we've been able to track our journey every turn of the wheel. We can also text (SMS) from anywhere in the world. And if something horrible were to happen, there is also an SOS button that will send the troops directly to our location. I think it's the best out there. I personally can vouch for each and every one of these items. Some things on this trip have fallen apart or have not served us well, but not these things. They are travel-tried and true, and I'm sure that it would make any adventure motorcyclist grin from ear to ear to unwrap one of these gifts.Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone. Please let us know your experiences with the gear you use in your travels, and if you have any additional input on the items above.
December 3, 2018
Machu Picchu for Overlanders
By Marisa 
One of the seven wonders of the world and rightfully so, the lost Incan city of Machu Picchu is on many people's bucket list. But as picturesque, breathtaking, and mysterious as it is, in recent years it has become a tourist hot-spot, and an expensive one. And I'm not just talking about the ticket price. The Peruvian government knows that they can get more than twice the ticket cost out of every visitor because Machu Picchu is inaccessible by road, which forces everyone to take overpriced train rides there (from Ollantaytambo it's $45 per person one way, from Cusco it's $75 one way!).
For many people this is fine, as they have been saving up all year to spend a weekend in Peru seeing the sights, and the train is certainly the quickest and most comfortable way of getting to Machu Picchu. But for long-term travelers trying to keep to a budget, getting there can be such a headache and a dent in the wallet, that many are now missing it simply for the cost involved. And that is a real shame.
I'm not sure why the Inca liked trapezoid shapes so much, but it definitely looks cool. There are no group of travelers who find this more frustrating than overlanders: people who travel from country to country via their own vehicle. We are used to driving up to places, finding a parking spot, and calling it home for the day. We wake up to gorgeous sunrises over empty tourist sites as everyone else is sleeping back at their hotels, and we can get to places that no bus or train could ever go.
Unfortunately, this is not possible for Machu Picchu. In order to visit the site, we have to give up our vehicle, which is our home on wheels and is not something we do lightly. But the good news is that if you have a few days on your hands and are up for a hike, then there is a way to cut out the cost of the train rides.
This is what Tim and I did, along with our fellow motorcycle friend Aditya. We didn't invent this route and there are plenty of others who take it every day, but it's a complicated process, so I wanted to lay out in detail how we managed. Hopefully this can help and inspire anyone else who wants to visit one of the most difficult to get to, but rewarding wonders of the world. Step 1: Drive to Santa Teresa
Santa Teresa is the closest town to Machu Picchu that you can get to by road (Aguas Calientes, a.k.a. Machu Picchu Pueblo, is at the base of the site's mountain but has no road going to it). To get to Santa Teresa from Cusco, we decided to stop by all the Incan sites along the way before the grand finale of Machu Picchu (if you're interested, a detailed blog about our own paved version of the “Inca Trail" is here).
The last real tourist outpost before Santa Teresa is Ollantaytambo, which is a lovely traditional Incan village with a set of ruins nearby, and also has a nice market. And since we knew things were going to get more expensive the closer we got to Machu Picchu, we bought three days' worth of food and supplies there before leaving.
From Ollantaytambo the road was paved and fast, going up into fairly high altitudes with snow-capped mountains on either side. That high up, the weather turned cold and rainy on us, but soon we dropped thousands of feet in elevation until we were in the heat of the humid Amazonian region. There was a lot of putting on, and taking off, rain gear and layers that day.
Just one of the many snow-tipped mountains of Abra de Málaga region, Peru. We hit the town of Santa Maria and turned our tires to Santa Teresa, where the asphalt became dirt. It's not that the dirt road was bad, it's that once it started winding narrowly along the sheer cliff edges with colectivo buses and local cars driving like madmen on the wrong side of the road (as usual), it felt a bit dangerous. We even saw a smashed car being towed up the cliff that had crashed way down in the valley. I'm not sure anyone who had been in that car could have made it out alive.
But if you do survive this road, then you'll easily get from Ollantaytambo to Santa Teresa in the same day.
The cliffside road between Santa Maria and Santa Teresa, Peru. Santa Teresa has been recently built up for tourists doing this same trainride-skipping route, and we rightly assumed that things there would be a little pricey. So we stayed at a recommended hotel where we knew there was secure motorcycle parking (Hospedaje Miel) and were easily able to talk the owner down to 20 Soles a person per night (~$6) and no charge for parking. Not too bad at all. Step 2: Get to Hydroelectrica Unfortunately, this is where we said goodbye to our bikes, and took a colectivo car to a train station called Hidroelectrica for 5 Soles a person (~$1.50). That is the going rate, and to make things even easier, the hotel owner called up a colectivo to come and pick us up, but you can find them waiting around the town square as well.
Colectivos are usually white taxis and vans that take people to places as a public service. But this means they may not leave until they fill up, and it can become a game of patience to see who will break first: either they'll leave without being full, or you'll pay for the empty seats. As motorcycle overlanders, we were not used to this game, and I found it frustrating, but we did our best to be patient.
Our driver to Hidroelectrica was fine (I don't even want to talk about the driver back, he was a nightmare), but to save yourself the hassle, you can drive to Hidroelectrica yourself if you want. And if you have a car or RV-type setup that locks and is secure, you'll probably want to. But Hidroelectrica is a bustling parking lot with people coming in and out all day, and we did not feel comfortable leaving our bikes there. Step 3: Walk the Tracks to Aguas Calientes As mentioned before, Machu Picchu and its nearby town of Aguas Calientes is only accessible by train. So since we decided we were not going to purchase expensive train tickets, that meant we had to walk the tracks instead.
We reserved a day for this hike and I'm glad we did because it took us 4 hours to get from Hidroelectrica to Aguas Calientes (this included lots of rest stops, picture ops, and a lunch break). The tracks sloped slightly upwards the whole time, so getting there was a bit worse and coming back only took us 3 hours. 
The beautiful scenery around the Urubamba River, Peru. Because of the gradual incline, it's not a difficult hike, but the loose railroad rocks get wearisome on the soles and ankles. Plus, it's definitely hot jungle out there. I got bit by mosquitoes and sand flies along the way, so dress appropriately and pack some bug spray.
Amazingly, there are tons of other people hiking along the tracks as well (they either take buses to Santa Maria and then transfer to Hidroelectrica, or they get bused in to Hidroelectrica directly from their hostel). And there are even stores built beside the tracks, campgrounds, and restaurants selling burgers, cold beers, and ice cream! Some of what they're selling isn't all that expensive, so even though we packed everything we'd need, it's good to know we were never too far from affordable provisions.
One of the many stores along the tracks. About every hour or so, the expensive train going to and from Santa Teresa would pass, which was a great opportunity to get some Peruvian Soles coins smashed on the tracks as souvenirs.
The last bit of the hike turned away from the tracks and headed up to Aguas Calientes, and was the steepest part of the trek. Once in town, we walked along the thoroughfare until we found a cheap hostel for the night. No reservation was needed, but we came in the low season (Dec-Feb).
The train coming from Santa Teresa to Aguas Calientes. Step 4: Buy Your Tickets In the high season (June-Sep), it might be preferable to purchase your Machu Picchu tickets way ahead of time in Cusco or even online. There are also a couple of paid trails that you can buy with your ticket (Huayna Picchu Mountain and Machu Picchu Mountain), and these should be gotten early because they sell out quick. But because we were in the off season, we had no problems getting tickets the day before, and even those hikes which are normally sold out months in advance were available.
The Machu Picchu ticket office in Aguas Calientes is open until 10 PM, and the cost was 152 Soles a person (~$45) without the extra hikes. Be warned, they were only taking cash in Soles when we went, and we had to each present our passport when purchasing the tickets.
Finally, we headed over to the bus ticket office.
The bus ride up to Machu Picchu. To take the bus up to Machu Picchu or not to take the bus, that is the question!
So there are buses that leave Aguas Calientes and bring you up to Machu Picchu or back down every 10 minutes all day long, starting at 5:30 AM. It takes about 25 minutes and costs $12 each way (you must buy these tickets the day before and only from Aguas Calientes at this office, closes at 9:00 PM). But there is also a trail that runs straight up the side of the mountain, and many people swear by the unforgettable experience of actually hiking up to Machu Picchu.
Because I had recently hurt my foot in a fall, I knew I was taking the bus, at least for the ride up. But Tim and Aditya weren't sure which would get to Machu Picchu first, the hikers or the bus? Being at Machu Picchu for sunrise and before it got full of tour groups was extremely important to us. And even though the hike supposedly took an hour or more, hikers were allowed to start the climb a half hour earlier than the buses. And while they said the first bus would leave at 5:30, would we get on the first bus? And even if we did, would it really leave on time? After all, this is Peru.
So what to do? Step 5: Get up the Mountain
View from the window of the bus going up to Machu Picchu. In the end, we decided to stick together and all take the bus up, but to save on costs, we'd walk back down. So after buying our tickets the night prior, we woke up at 4:00 AM, got into the bus line by 4:30 which had already started forming (it's first come, first serve), and were able to get onto the third bus out. And most amazingly, it actually left at 5:28 (most punctual thing in Peru!), and we were at Machu Picchu by the time the gates opened at 6:00.
We ended up being very happy with this decision to take the bus up as we saw plenty of hikers along the road staring at us with forlorn expressions. Maybe they were simply catching their breath from the grueling hike, or maybe they just hated watching busloads of tourists beating them up there. But I'm pretty sure not a single hiker could have gotten up the mountain before the buses.
That being said, if hiking up to Machu Picchu is your dream, then don't let me talk you out of it. Not only is it cheaper, but I'm sure it is much more rewarding and impactful to arrive via your own two feet. Some people say it was what made their time at Machu Picchu particularly special. Step 6: Enjoy!
Me fulfilling my dream of standing in front of the might and beauty of Machu Picchu, Peru. At the main gate, we checked in some baggage for 5 Soles (~$1.50), and showed our passports and tickets to get in (don't forget your passport!). This is also the only place with bathrooms in the park, and it costs 2 Soles (~$0.60). The women's line was of course super long, and I felt bad for them because they were all missing getting pictures of Machu Picchu at sunrise because they had to pee.
Big duffle bags or backpacker packs are not allowed into the park, and many people were forced to check them in. But day backpacks seemed to be fine. And food, walking poles, and selfie sticks are technically not allowed either, but if it's hidden in your bag, you should have no problem.
Once inside the gates, we were confronted with the postcard view of Machu Picchu that everyone loves. Thankfully, the Inca built terraces that are perfect selfie-taking platforms where everyone can all spread out and take pictures of the same view (well planned, Inca!). We climbed up to the House of the Guardian and the Funerary Rock to get some elevation for our shots, and it was as perfect as I could have ever hoped.
It's real early in the morning, but I'm super happy to be at Machu Picchu. After a few minutes, tendrils of mist and clouds started tickling the mountaintop of Huayna Picchu, and tumbling down the sides while the further mountains crowned the whole scene. It was mysterious, it was majestic, and most of all, I had the feeling that I had walked into another world, or stepped back in time. It was indescribable. 
Walking around Machu Picchu is actually a one-way circuit, and going backwards is forbidden. So plan your route ahead of time and where you need to be when, because it's hard to get back if you've missed something.
There are two paid hikes that you have to buy with your ticket if you want to do them: Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu Mountain, and then there are two free ones: Inca Bridge and Sun Gate. Huayna Picchu is the steep peak you see behind the ruins in every picture, and it's the most difficult hike in the park, usually taking many hours to complete. Machu Picchu Mountain is behind where everyone takes pictures, and it's not as strenuous, but offers fantastic views of the ruins below. I've heard the extra cost of these treks is 24 Soles each (~$7.50).
For both of these you can choose when buying your tickets between going at 7:00 or 10:00. People have said good and bad things about both timings, but many people claim that it's too foggy at 7:00 AM to see anything on top of those peaks, so 10:00 may be better. Needless to say, because of my foot, we did not do either of these hikes.
The Inca Bridge of wooden planks across a narrow stone path to Machu Picchu. But we did go down the Inca Bridge Trail to what was a wooden drawbridge of sorts that the Inca could raise to make it difficult for anyone to invade (the actual bridge is closed off because it's dangerous, but you can see it from the path). The hike was lovely, and it was one of my favorite parts of Machu Picchu because there was almost no one there, the fog was rolling around us in clumps and gaps, and it was peaceful and silent, except for bird calls. The Inca Bridge walk was easy and magical, and it only took a half hour for us to complete.
Afterwards, we made our way down through the ruins of Machu Picchu along with the rest of the tourists, which was starting to become more like a moving herd of people.
The one-way track around the ruins of Machu Picchu. If you can imagine that the route through Machu Picchu is shaped like an oval, then you are starting on the left side and you come back on the right. And they say to take your time through the left side because it is the ceremonial and temple side, whereas the right has only residential buildings. So that is precisely what we did. 
Intihuatana: The Sundial Stone. The backside of it was chipped in 2000 from a crane accident while filming a beer commercial. Saddest story ever. By the time we got to the residential side, we knew there wasn't much left to do, so we sat in a grassy house and ate a packed lunch while soaking in the fact that we were relaxing in the old house of some long gone Machu Picchu resident. Amazing.
One of the last things on the route was the Temple of the Condor with a large condor sculpture on the ground (I needed to use my imagination a bit), and then we were out of the park. We made sure we didn't forget to have our passports stamped with the Machu Picchu stamp right as we exited.
In the low season, it was easy for us to find an empty building to have a picnic in with no one else around. As we were leaving at 10:00, we noticed hoards of people coming in who had all probably taken the train from Cusco. Good thing we didn't do that! It seemed like midday was going to be a busy, jam-packed time at Machu Picchu.
In total, we spent about four hours in the park and felt very satisfied with our time there. Those who do Huayna Picchu hikes and other trails might spend all day there.
Step 7: Reverse it all back to Santa Teresa We had completed our tour of Machu Picchu, but our day was far from over. This is because we were a little stressed for time, and had decided to hike down the mountain and then immediately back along the tracks to Hidroelectrica. So we got our bags out of the luggage check, and headed to the trail that zig-zagged down the mountain.
The hike down was fine, though some of those stone steps are huge and I just could not imagine having to climb up it. Bravo to anyone who does!
The trail down Machu Picchu. Personally, I was happy we hadn't taken it up. At the bottom of the mountain, if you turn left down the road there is the Machu Picchu Museum which you can go to for 22 Soles (~$6.50). It's small, but is supposed to be a hidden gem that no one knows about. Next to it is a botanical garden which is allegedly free when presenting your Machu Picchu ticket. Unfortunately, we were so rushed, we missed out on both these things.
If I had to do it all again, and did not have the time crunch, I would reserve a day for hiking the railroad tracks in, a day for Machu Picchu, and then another full day for walking the tracks back to Hidroelectrica. For Tim and Aditya, doing the park and the train tracks in one day was fine, but for me and my recovering foot, I was in a bit of pain by the end of it all. Plus, my legs felt like iron the next day. So it's all up to your personal preference, and being back with our bikes in Santa Teresa that night was definitely doable. But I would have preferred a more relaxed time-frame where I could've enjoyed the scenery a bit better.
Don't be like this unobservant tourist. So is it worth it? For me, it definitely was. But everyone has their own experience, and if it was the high season and the weather was either hot and miserable or rainy and miserable, then I may have come to a different conclusion. But by hiking in along the tracks and not spending money on the train, even if the experience ended up being less-than-perfect, at least I'd know that I didn't break the bank doing it.
Safe journeys to all, and I hope if that you ever enter the magical world of Machu Picchu, you find it as gloriously mysterious and enticing as I did.
One of the seven wonders of the world and rightfully so, the lost Incan city of Machu Picchu is on many people's bucket list. But as picturesque, breathtaking, and mysterious as it is, in recent years it has become a tourist hot-spot, and an expensive one. And I'm not just talking about the ticket price. The Peruvian government knows that they can get more than twice the ticket cost out of every visitor because Machu Picchu is inaccessible by road, which forces everyone to take overpriced train rides there (from Ollantaytambo it's $45 per person one way, from Cusco it's $75 one way!).For many people this is fine, as they have been saving up all year to spend a weekend in Peru seeing the sights, and the train is certainly the quickest and most comfortable way of getting to Machu Picchu. But for long-term travelers trying to keep to a budget, getting there can be such a headache and a dent in the wallet, that many are now missing it simply for the cost involved. And that is a real shame.
I'm not sure why the Inca liked trapezoid shapes so much, but it definitely looks cool. There are no group of travelers who find this more frustrating than overlanders: people who travel from country to country via their own vehicle. We are used to driving up to places, finding a parking spot, and calling it home for the day. We wake up to gorgeous sunrises over empty tourist sites as everyone else is sleeping back at their hotels, and we can get to places that no bus or train could ever go.Unfortunately, this is not possible for Machu Picchu. In order to visit the site, we have to give up our vehicle, which is our home on wheels and is not something we do lightly. But the good news is that if you have a few days on your hands and are up for a hike, then there is a way to cut out the cost of the train rides.
This is what Tim and I did, along with our fellow motorcycle friend Aditya. We didn't invent this route and there are plenty of others who take it every day, but it's a complicated process, so I wanted to lay out in detail how we managed. Hopefully this can help and inspire anyone else who wants to visit one of the most difficult to get to, but rewarding wonders of the world. Step 1: Drive to Santa Teresa
Santa Teresa is the closest town to Machu Picchu that you can get to by road (Aguas Calientes, a.k.a. Machu Picchu Pueblo, is at the base of the site's mountain but has no road going to it). To get to Santa Teresa from Cusco, we decided to stop by all the Incan sites along the way before the grand finale of Machu Picchu (if you're interested, a detailed blog about our own paved version of the “Inca Trail" is here).The last real tourist outpost before Santa Teresa is Ollantaytambo, which is a lovely traditional Incan village with a set of ruins nearby, and also has a nice market. And since we knew things were going to get more expensive the closer we got to Machu Picchu, we bought three days' worth of food and supplies there before leaving.
From Ollantaytambo the road was paved and fast, going up into fairly high altitudes with snow-capped mountains on either side. That high up, the weather turned cold and rainy on us, but soon we dropped thousands of feet in elevation until we were in the heat of the humid Amazonian region. There was a lot of putting on, and taking off, rain gear and layers that day.
Just one of the many snow-tipped mountains of Abra de Málaga region, Peru. We hit the town of Santa Maria and turned our tires to Santa Teresa, where the asphalt became dirt. It's not that the dirt road was bad, it's that once it started winding narrowly along the sheer cliff edges with colectivo buses and local cars driving like madmen on the wrong side of the road (as usual), it felt a bit dangerous. We even saw a smashed car being towed up the cliff that had crashed way down in the valley. I'm not sure anyone who had been in that car could have made it out alive.But if you do survive this road, then you'll easily get from Ollantaytambo to Santa Teresa in the same day.
The cliffside road between Santa Maria and Santa Teresa, Peru. Santa Teresa has been recently built up for tourists doing this same trainride-skipping route, and we rightly assumed that things there would be a little pricey. So we stayed at a recommended hotel where we knew there was secure motorcycle parking (Hospedaje Miel) and were easily able to talk the owner down to 20 Soles a person per night (~$6) and no charge for parking. Not too bad at all. Step 2: Get to Hydroelectrica Unfortunately, this is where we said goodbye to our bikes, and took a colectivo car to a train station called Hidroelectrica for 5 Soles a person (~$1.50). That is the going rate, and to make things even easier, the hotel owner called up a colectivo to come and pick us up, but you can find them waiting around the town square as well.Colectivos are usually white taxis and vans that take people to places as a public service. But this means they may not leave until they fill up, and it can become a game of patience to see who will break first: either they'll leave without being full, or you'll pay for the empty seats. As motorcycle overlanders, we were not used to this game, and I found it frustrating, but we did our best to be patient.
Our driver to Hidroelectrica was fine (I don't even want to talk about the driver back, he was a nightmare), but to save yourself the hassle, you can drive to Hidroelectrica yourself if you want. And if you have a car or RV-type setup that locks and is secure, you'll probably want to. But Hidroelectrica is a bustling parking lot with people coming in and out all day, and we did not feel comfortable leaving our bikes there. Step 3: Walk the Tracks to Aguas Calientes As mentioned before, Machu Picchu and its nearby town of Aguas Calientes is only accessible by train. So since we decided we were not going to purchase expensive train tickets, that meant we had to walk the tracks instead.
We reserved a day for this hike and I'm glad we did because it took us 4 hours to get from Hidroelectrica to Aguas Calientes (this included lots of rest stops, picture ops, and a lunch break). The tracks sloped slightly upwards the whole time, so getting there was a bit worse and coming back only took us 3 hours. 
The beautiful scenery around the Urubamba River, Peru. Because of the gradual incline, it's not a difficult hike, but the loose railroad rocks get wearisome on the soles and ankles. Plus, it's definitely hot jungle out there. I got bit by mosquitoes and sand flies along the way, so dress appropriately and pack some bug spray.Amazingly, there are tons of other people hiking along the tracks as well (they either take buses to Santa Maria and then transfer to Hidroelectrica, or they get bused in to Hidroelectrica directly from their hostel). And there are even stores built beside the tracks, campgrounds, and restaurants selling burgers, cold beers, and ice cream! Some of what they're selling isn't all that expensive, so even though we packed everything we'd need, it's good to know we were never too far from affordable provisions.
One of the many stores along the tracks. About every hour or so, the expensive train going to and from Santa Teresa would pass, which was a great opportunity to get some Peruvian Soles coins smashed on the tracks as souvenirs.The last bit of the hike turned away from the tracks and headed up to Aguas Calientes, and was the steepest part of the trek. Once in town, we walked along the thoroughfare until we found a cheap hostel for the night. No reservation was needed, but we came in the low season (Dec-Feb).
The train coming from Santa Teresa to Aguas Calientes. Step 4: Buy Your Tickets In the high season (June-Sep), it might be preferable to purchase your Machu Picchu tickets way ahead of time in Cusco or even online. There are also a couple of paid trails that you can buy with your ticket (Huayna Picchu Mountain and Machu Picchu Mountain), and these should be gotten early because they sell out quick. But because we were in the off season, we had no problems getting tickets the day before, and even those hikes which are normally sold out months in advance were available.The Machu Picchu ticket office in Aguas Calientes is open until 10 PM, and the cost was 152 Soles a person (~$45) without the extra hikes. Be warned, they were only taking cash in Soles when we went, and we had to each present our passport when purchasing the tickets.
Finally, we headed over to the bus ticket office.
The bus ride up to Machu Picchu. To take the bus up to Machu Picchu or not to take the bus, that is the question!So there are buses that leave Aguas Calientes and bring you up to Machu Picchu or back down every 10 minutes all day long, starting at 5:30 AM. It takes about 25 minutes and costs $12 each way (you must buy these tickets the day before and only from Aguas Calientes at this office, closes at 9:00 PM). But there is also a trail that runs straight up the side of the mountain, and many people swear by the unforgettable experience of actually hiking up to Machu Picchu.
Because I had recently hurt my foot in a fall, I knew I was taking the bus, at least for the ride up. But Tim and Aditya weren't sure which would get to Machu Picchu first, the hikers or the bus? Being at Machu Picchu for sunrise and before it got full of tour groups was extremely important to us. And even though the hike supposedly took an hour or more, hikers were allowed to start the climb a half hour earlier than the buses. And while they said the first bus would leave at 5:30, would we get on the first bus? And even if we did, would it really leave on time? After all, this is Peru.
So what to do? Step 5: Get up the Mountain
View from the window of the bus going up to Machu Picchu. In the end, we decided to stick together and all take the bus up, but to save on costs, we'd walk back down. So after buying our tickets the night prior, we woke up at 4:00 AM, got into the bus line by 4:30 which had already started forming (it's first come, first serve), and were able to get onto the third bus out. And most amazingly, it actually left at 5:28 (most punctual thing in Peru!), and we were at Machu Picchu by the time the gates opened at 6:00.We ended up being very happy with this decision to take the bus up as we saw plenty of hikers along the road staring at us with forlorn expressions. Maybe they were simply catching their breath from the grueling hike, or maybe they just hated watching busloads of tourists beating them up there. But I'm pretty sure not a single hiker could have gotten up the mountain before the buses.
That being said, if hiking up to Machu Picchu is your dream, then don't let me talk you out of it. Not only is it cheaper, but I'm sure it is much more rewarding and impactful to arrive via your own two feet. Some people say it was what made their time at Machu Picchu particularly special. Step 6: Enjoy!
Me fulfilling my dream of standing in front of the might and beauty of Machu Picchu, Peru. At the main gate, we checked in some baggage for 5 Soles (~$1.50), and showed our passports and tickets to get in (don't forget your passport!). This is also the only place with bathrooms in the park, and it costs 2 Soles (~$0.60). The women's line was of course super long, and I felt bad for them because they were all missing getting pictures of Machu Picchu at sunrise because they had to pee.Big duffle bags or backpacker packs are not allowed into the park, and many people were forced to check them in. But day backpacks seemed to be fine. And food, walking poles, and selfie sticks are technically not allowed either, but if it's hidden in your bag, you should have no problem.
Once inside the gates, we were confronted with the postcard view of Machu Picchu that everyone loves. Thankfully, the Inca built terraces that are perfect selfie-taking platforms where everyone can all spread out and take pictures of the same view (well planned, Inca!). We climbed up to the House of the Guardian and the Funerary Rock to get some elevation for our shots, and it was as perfect as I could have ever hoped.
It's real early in the morning, but I'm super happy to be at Machu Picchu. After a few minutes, tendrils of mist and clouds started tickling the mountaintop of Huayna Picchu, and tumbling down the sides while the further mountains crowned the whole scene. It was mysterious, it was majestic, and most of all, I had the feeling that I had walked into another world, or stepped back in time. It was indescribable. 
Walking around Machu Picchu is actually a one-way circuit, and going backwards is forbidden. So plan your route ahead of time and where you need to be when, because it's hard to get back if you've missed something.There are two paid hikes that you have to buy with your ticket if you want to do them: Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu Mountain, and then there are two free ones: Inca Bridge and Sun Gate. Huayna Picchu is the steep peak you see behind the ruins in every picture, and it's the most difficult hike in the park, usually taking many hours to complete. Machu Picchu Mountain is behind where everyone takes pictures, and it's not as strenuous, but offers fantastic views of the ruins below. I've heard the extra cost of these treks is 24 Soles each (~$7.50).
For both of these you can choose when buying your tickets between going at 7:00 or 10:00. People have said good and bad things about both timings, but many people claim that it's too foggy at 7:00 AM to see anything on top of those peaks, so 10:00 may be better. Needless to say, because of my foot, we did not do either of these hikes.
The Inca Bridge of wooden planks across a narrow stone path to Machu Picchu. But we did go down the Inca Bridge Trail to what was a wooden drawbridge of sorts that the Inca could raise to make it difficult for anyone to invade (the actual bridge is closed off because it's dangerous, but you can see it from the path). The hike was lovely, and it was one of my favorite parts of Machu Picchu because there was almost no one there, the fog was rolling around us in clumps and gaps, and it was peaceful and silent, except for bird calls. The Inca Bridge walk was easy and magical, and it only took a half hour for us to complete.Afterwards, we made our way down through the ruins of Machu Picchu along with the rest of the tourists, which was starting to become more like a moving herd of people.
The one-way track around the ruins of Machu Picchu. If you can imagine that the route through Machu Picchu is shaped like an oval, then you are starting on the left side and you come back on the right. And they say to take your time through the left side because it is the ceremonial and temple side, whereas the right has only residential buildings. So that is precisely what we did. 
Intihuatana: The Sundial Stone. The backside of it was chipped in 2000 from a crane accident while filming a beer commercial. Saddest story ever. By the time we got to the residential side, we knew there wasn't much left to do, so we sat in a grassy house and ate a packed lunch while soaking in the fact that we were relaxing in the old house of some long gone Machu Picchu resident. Amazing.One of the last things on the route was the Temple of the Condor with a large condor sculpture on the ground (I needed to use my imagination a bit), and then we were out of the park. We made sure we didn't forget to have our passports stamped with the Machu Picchu stamp right as we exited.
In the low season, it was easy for us to find an empty building to have a picnic in with no one else around. As we were leaving at 10:00, we noticed hoards of people coming in who had all probably taken the train from Cusco. Good thing we didn't do that! It seemed like midday was going to be a busy, jam-packed time at Machu Picchu.In total, we spent about four hours in the park and felt very satisfied with our time there. Those who do Huayna Picchu hikes and other trails might spend all day there.
Step 7: Reverse it all back to Santa Teresa We had completed our tour of Machu Picchu, but our day was far from over. This is because we were a little stressed for time, and had decided to hike down the mountain and then immediately back along the tracks to Hidroelectrica. So we got our bags out of the luggage check, and headed to the trail that zig-zagged down the mountain.The hike down was fine, though some of those stone steps are huge and I just could not imagine having to climb up it. Bravo to anyone who does!
The trail down Machu Picchu. Personally, I was happy we hadn't taken it up. At the bottom of the mountain, if you turn left down the road there is the Machu Picchu Museum which you can go to for 22 Soles (~$6.50). It's small, but is supposed to be a hidden gem that no one knows about. Next to it is a botanical garden which is allegedly free when presenting your Machu Picchu ticket. Unfortunately, we were so rushed, we missed out on both these things.If I had to do it all again, and did not have the time crunch, I would reserve a day for hiking the railroad tracks in, a day for Machu Picchu, and then another full day for walking the tracks back to Hidroelectrica. For Tim and Aditya, doing the park and the train tracks in one day was fine, but for me and my recovering foot, I was in a bit of pain by the end of it all. Plus, my legs felt like iron the next day. So it's all up to your personal preference, and being back with our bikes in Santa Teresa that night was definitely doable. But I would have preferred a more relaxed time-frame where I could've enjoyed the scenery a bit better.
Don't be like this unobservant tourist. So is it worth it? For me, it definitely was. But everyone has their own experience, and if it was the high season and the weather was either hot and miserable or rainy and miserable, then I may have come to a different conclusion. But by hiking in along the tracks and not spending money on the train, even if the experience ended up being less-than-perfect, at least I'd know that I didn't break the bank doing it.Safe journeys to all, and I hope if that you ever enter the magical world of Machu Picchu, you find it as gloriously mysterious and enticing as I did.
December 2, 2018
Dec. 2, 2018 - Inca-redible
By Marisa 
In the 15th century, it was the largest empire in the world, and it still captures the hearts and minds of people today. Though the Inca Empire didn't last long, it made its mark on South America by reshaping the landscape and creating structures that are still marveled at by people from around the globe.
Getting up-close and personal to Peru's Incan past has been a dream of mine since I was a child. And now that Tim and I finally found ourselves in Cusco, the old Incan capital, I could just feel the excitement mounting inside me. I wanted to see and experience it all.
And so we made a plan. Our Paved "Inca Trail" Machu Picchu is of course Peru's big ticket tourist attraction, and probably the most famous Incan settlement on earth. But Tim and I decided that we were going to see Peru's other Incan sites first and save Machu Picchu for last. This turned out to be great, as it felt like everything we were seeing was leading up to the finale of this spectacular lost city of the Inca. The route became our own sort of Inca Trail, but one we could do on our motorcycle.
So if you are interested in coming to Peru and have the time and means to do this, and if you also have the burning desire to see South American ruins as I do, then I would highly recommend taking this route.
Above is a map of the gradual progression of ruins that we visited, starting in Cusco and ending in Machu Picchu. I would recommend at least six days for this, and that would give you enough time to absorb every site without being rushed or ruined-out.
We'd heard that in order to do all the sites on this route in the most cost-effective way, we first needed to buy a full boleto turistico (tourist ticket) from the COSITUC office in the historic center of Cusco (-13.518063, -71.978563). It cost us 130 Soles (~$39) per person, was valid for 10 days, and allowed us to get into all the major Incan sites around Cusco and some museums, but it did not cover Machu Picchu. That is a separate ticket, and if you are going in the high season (June-Sep) you may want to consider buying your Machu Picchu ticket in Cusco as well, as they sometimes sell out weeks in advance. Otherwise, you can buy it when you get to Machu Picchu Pueblo (Aguas Calientes), like we did.
Tim going down some Incan steps that would not be up to modern safety standards. The boleto turistico is kind of expensive (at least when you are on a budget), and there are ways to see many great ruins without it. So if you want see some Incan sites while spending a little less cash, then read on, because I'll label which need the boleto, and also give you some tips on what you can see for next to nothing, or for free. Cusco We started off in the old Incan capital city, which is like a living ruin in and of itself. It's a touristy place, for sure, but well worth every moment spent meandering its quaint streets lined in Incan stonework and Spanish churches. You could spend a fortune here, but if you look hard enough, you can also find some great deals. And in all honesty, no matter what your budget is, Cusco seems to be a magical place for pretty much everyone. 
Cusco at night from the San Blas Mirador. As far as Incan construction goes, the crown jewel of the city is Qoricancha, the Incan ceremonial center that was later turned into a church by the Spanish conquerors. Though a lot of Incan work was lost, today there is still much of the original pre-hispanic walls left, and for only 15 Soles a person (~$4.20), it's definitely worth a peek inside. 
The Incan walls of Qoricancha, now under a Colonial Spanish church. Cusco, Peru. The boleto turistico does not give you access to Qoricancha, but it does allow you to go into the Qoricancha Museum which is located under the park by the main road in front. The ticket also includes three other museums in Cusco: the Museum of Popular Art, Regional History, and Contemporary Art, as well as access to the Pachacutiq Monument, two traditional villages near to Cusco (Tipón and Pikillacta), and a daily dance performance at the Native Music and Dance Center. We did not see these things, but our friends said they loved the dance performance. Sexy Woman and her Friends Saqsaywaman - included on the boleto Often called by foreigners “Sexy Woman," Saqsaywamán (SAAK-sai-wa-MAN) is actually an Incan fortress built on the hill overlooking Cusco. They say Cusco was designed to be in the shape of a puma, the sacred animal of the earth to the Inca, and Saqsaywamán was its head. 
Me and the massive Incan stones of Saqsaywamán, Peru. Saqsaywamán is an expansive complex of impressive stonework with some of the largest boulders used for Incan walls in existence. You can even see the looming structures of Saqsaywamán from Cusco, and from the ruins you can get an incredible view of the city. 
A view of Cusco from the nearby mountain ruins of Saqsaywamán. If you like walking uphill at high altitude (11,200 ft, 3,400 m), then you can hike up there for free from Cusco. But if you don't, then you can hire a cab like we did or take a bus. If you have your own vehicle, then take that, because the area surrounding Saqsaywamán is filled with other ruins which are pretty far apart for walking, but doable in one day by vehicle. We were definitely kicking ourselves for not bringing the bike when we went. Qenqo - included on the boleto A bit up the road from Saqsaywamán is Qenqo (KEN-ko), a temple carved out of a giant rock monolith, making it quite unique looking. And it has a bit of a sinister past as it was the site of human sacrifices. 
Apparently, the corpse of a baby sacrificed during Incan times was found here. Qenqo, Peru. Temple of the Moon - free Near Qenqo, there is a place called Templo de la Luna, which is an outcropping of rock with a trail that goes up it, and the area was supposedly dedicated to the mother Killa, or moon. If you're looking for free ruins, this is a great one, and you can even make a day trip by hiking around and exploring the other smaller free sites nearby. 
Some of the carvings around Temple of the Moon, near Qenqo, Peru. Puca Pucara - included on the boleto From there, it's either an hour walk up the road or a short bus ride to Puca Pucara (catch the blue and white Huerto bus for one Sol, which is $0.30). Puca Pucara (PU-ka pu-KA-ra) is a picturesque mountaintop fortress meaning red fort because of the red granite stones used. It is said that this outpost was built to protect Cusco from invading tribes coming from the Amazon region. 
The red fort of Puca Pucara, Peru. Tambomachay - included on the boleto 
The Incan baths of Tambomachay, Peru. And finally, just a five minute walk from Puca Pucara is Tambomachay (TAM-bo-ma-CHAI), the last of the major Incan ruins near Saqsaywamán. It's also known as the “Bath of the Inca" because it has gorgeous fountains of trickling water, and may have served as a spa for the Incan elite.
You can do all these sites in a day as long as you have a vehicle, hire a cab, or take busses. Either that or you're a hiking athlete who's already climbed Everest twice. The Sacred Valley From Cusco to Machu Picchu, there is a nice paved road (mostly) that connects every major Incan ruin in a relatively straight line, starting with Pisac. Tim and I went out of order because we really wanted to meet up with our friends at Moray, which was super fun. But without that variable, I would go in order with Pisac first.
Me pointing at more ruins in the distance at Pisac, Sacred Valley, Peru. Pisac - included on the boleto There is a cute cobble-stoned village of Pisac (PEE-saak) at the base of the mountains that is famous for its traditional morning market, and then there are the nearby cliffside ruins of Pisac high up on the peaks. These are some of the most impressive ruins you'll ever see, and because they're perched at the top of rugged mountains, they offer spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. 
The mountaintop ruins of Pisac, Sacred Valley, Peru. The Inca sure loved stacking rocks in high-up places. The site is surprisingly large as I found that after every turn in the cliffs, it just kept going. There are baths, fountains, geometric terraces, altars, and a temple to the sun god, Inti. It has a bit of everything you could ever want out of Incan ruins, and if you are adventurous, there are even trails to go off to distant cliffside ruins that you can see from the main ones, and you would definitely be the only people there. Moray - included on the boleto These terraced concentric circles look like they were made by aliens, and I'm sure there are people out there who believe that. Moray (MO-rai) is a lot more impressive in person than in photos, because as you stand on the edge of these terraces, you can really appreciate the immensity and perfection of them. 
The bizarre and beautiful Incan terraces of Moray, Peru. Some say they were used for agricultural experimentation, but the truth is, nobody knows for sure why they were built. Maybe the Inca just wanted outsiders to see them and stand in awe at their magnificence.
The hike around the terraces shouldn't take more than 45 minutes, and if you don't like hiking, this is one of the few places that doesn't require lots of walking since you can park almost up to the edge and still get the full effect. The road here is dirt and goes through the cute village of Maras, a perfect place to stop for lunch. Maras Salinas - not included on the boleto, costs 10 Soles No more than a half hour away from Moray and past the town of Maras are the salt pools of Salinas, which is Spanish for saltworks. Originally, Tim and I had no intention of seeing a bunch of salt, but as our friends were camped there, we decided to go (camping overnight is free with entry). And I am so happy we did.
The Incan-made salt pools of Maras Salinas, Peru. The terraced evaporation pools were used by the Incas to collect salt from the salty stream that they ingeniously channeled onto each platform. It's strangely beautiful when the sun hits the shallow water, and the amount of work that went into converting this mountainside into their salt collection station is incredible.
The boleto turistico does not cover this site, but it costs only ten Soles to get in (~$3). And best of all, the bathrooms are stocked with toilet paper and paper towels, whoa! Ollantaytambo - included on the boleto
The traditional Incan village of Ollantaytambo at sunset, Sacred Valley, Peru. Ollantaytambo (o-YAN-tai-TAM-bo) is not to be missed whether you have the boleto turistico or not, as it is one of my favorite places in all of Peru, and maybe even all of South America. It is both an Incan town and Incan ruins, and the village itself (no charge to visit) is the best representation of Incan city planning that exists today. In a perfectly grid-like design of narrow pedestrian-only streets, and buildings built onto Incan stonework, Ollantaytambo has channels of bubbling water along every road that not only give the town its plumbing, but also an atmospheric sound that follows you everywhere. 
There is something incredibly peaceful and perfect about Ollantaytambo, Peru. Ollantaytambo is touristy, but I can forgive it for that because I don't blame anyone for wanting to go there, and then wanting to stay forever. And what's more, the village is flanked on either end by granite peaks jutting into the air with Incan ruins along their sides. 
The steeply perched granaries of Pinkuylluna. 
Tim and I catching a kiss in Pinkuylluna, at Oyantaytambo, Peru. (It was totally staged) One of these sites, the old Incan granaries called Pinkuylluna (PIN-kui-YU-na), is free to go to and offers fantastic views. The hike up is a bit strenuous, but once you're there, you will be thankful you made it to what are perhaps the most spectacular grain warehouses in the world. 
The Incan ruins of Ollantaytambo which overlook the village of Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley, Peru. And then across town there are the main ruins of Ollantaytambo (boleto turistico required), complete with a fortress, temples, terraces, and baths. Climbing up into the fortress and seeing the Temple of the Sun with its calendar to judge the solstices was amazing enough. But my personal favorite part were the baths and buildings below the fort where channels of flowing river water made for heavenly fountains in every house. I could just see the Incan Emperor Pachacutiq admiring this masterpiece of his with complete pride. 
Ollantaytambo is an Incan paradise of running water, gardens, mountains, and impressive stone structures. Machu Picchu Finally, the literal pinnacle of all Incan ruins: Machu Picchu. It's not cheap to go there (the ticket alone is 152 Soles, ~$45), but it's one of those things you really must do when visiting Peru. I was actually quite worried about going because I'd heard that it had gotten so touristy, that it wasn't worth it. But Tim and I, and our motorcyclist friend Aditya who came with us (a.k.a. Mak), really lucked out.
Maybe it was because we went in the low season (Dec-Feb), or maybe it was because the weather was perfectly misty and mysterious. But my visit to Machu Picchu was everything I'd ever wanted and more.
The misty glory of Machu Picchu, Peru. Because you can't actually get to Machu Picchu by road, it's one of the most complicated sites to visit, in my opinion. So I'm going to write a whole blog on how we did it with the motorcycle, and how we cut the costs of buying an expensive train ride (the cheapest of which is $45 per person from Ollantaytambo, one way, yikes!).
So stay tuned, and I hope I have inspired somebody out there to experience these incredible Incan sites for themselves. A Final Note One of the greatest things about visiting these Incan ruins was that we came to realize that even though the Inca Empire may be gone, the Inca people and their culture are still here. By riding along our paved version of the “Inca Trail", we came face to face with the Incan descendants who built these monuments, we heard them speak their soft and majestic language of Quechua, and we were dazzled by the colors of their textiles and the smells of their cooking. Even the rhythms of these people is not just in the traditional pan-pipe music you hear playing in the tourist shops, but in the modern music that popular Peruvian artists are still making.
So unlike Machu Picchu, the Incan way of life is not gone, it's not ruined, and it's not lost. It's here, it's alive, and in the land of the Inca, it's all around us.
In the 15th century, it was the largest empire in the world, and it still captures the hearts and minds of people today. Though the Inca Empire didn't last long, it made its mark on South America by reshaping the landscape and creating structures that are still marveled at by people from around the globe.Getting up-close and personal to Peru's Incan past has been a dream of mine since I was a child. And now that Tim and I finally found ourselves in Cusco, the old Incan capital, I could just feel the excitement mounting inside me. I wanted to see and experience it all.
And so we made a plan. Our Paved "Inca Trail" Machu Picchu is of course Peru's big ticket tourist attraction, and probably the most famous Incan settlement on earth. But Tim and I decided that we were going to see Peru's other Incan sites first and save Machu Picchu for last. This turned out to be great, as it felt like everything we were seeing was leading up to the finale of this spectacular lost city of the Inca. The route became our own sort of Inca Trail, but one we could do on our motorcycle.
So if you are interested in coming to Peru and have the time and means to do this, and if you also have the burning desire to see South American ruins as I do, then I would highly recommend taking this route.
Above is a map of the gradual progression of ruins that we visited, starting in Cusco and ending in Machu Picchu. I would recommend at least six days for this, and that would give you enough time to absorb every site without being rushed or ruined-out.We'd heard that in order to do all the sites on this route in the most cost-effective way, we first needed to buy a full boleto turistico (tourist ticket) from the COSITUC office in the historic center of Cusco (-13.518063, -71.978563). It cost us 130 Soles (~$39) per person, was valid for 10 days, and allowed us to get into all the major Incan sites around Cusco and some museums, but it did not cover Machu Picchu. That is a separate ticket, and if you are going in the high season (June-Sep) you may want to consider buying your Machu Picchu ticket in Cusco as well, as they sometimes sell out weeks in advance. Otherwise, you can buy it when you get to Machu Picchu Pueblo (Aguas Calientes), like we did.
Tim going down some Incan steps that would not be up to modern safety standards. The boleto turistico is kind of expensive (at least when you are on a budget), and there are ways to see many great ruins without it. So if you want see some Incan sites while spending a little less cash, then read on, because I'll label which need the boleto, and also give you some tips on what you can see for next to nothing, or for free. Cusco We started off in the old Incan capital city, which is like a living ruin in and of itself. It's a touristy place, for sure, but well worth every moment spent meandering its quaint streets lined in Incan stonework and Spanish churches. You could spend a fortune here, but if you look hard enough, you can also find some great deals. And in all honesty, no matter what your budget is, Cusco seems to be a magical place for pretty much everyone. 
Cusco at night from the San Blas Mirador. As far as Incan construction goes, the crown jewel of the city is Qoricancha, the Incan ceremonial center that was later turned into a church by the Spanish conquerors. Though a lot of Incan work was lost, today there is still much of the original pre-hispanic walls left, and for only 15 Soles a person (~$4.20), it's definitely worth a peek inside. 
The Incan walls of Qoricancha, now under a Colonial Spanish church. Cusco, Peru. The boleto turistico does not give you access to Qoricancha, but it does allow you to go into the Qoricancha Museum which is located under the park by the main road in front. The ticket also includes three other museums in Cusco: the Museum of Popular Art, Regional History, and Contemporary Art, as well as access to the Pachacutiq Monument, two traditional villages near to Cusco (Tipón and Pikillacta), and a daily dance performance at the Native Music and Dance Center. We did not see these things, but our friends said they loved the dance performance. Sexy Woman and her Friends Saqsaywaman - included on the boleto Often called by foreigners “Sexy Woman," Saqsaywamán (SAAK-sai-wa-MAN) is actually an Incan fortress built on the hill overlooking Cusco. They say Cusco was designed to be in the shape of a puma, the sacred animal of the earth to the Inca, and Saqsaywamán was its head. 
Me and the massive Incan stones of Saqsaywamán, Peru. Saqsaywamán is an expansive complex of impressive stonework with some of the largest boulders used for Incan walls in existence. You can even see the looming structures of Saqsaywamán from Cusco, and from the ruins you can get an incredible view of the city. 
A view of Cusco from the nearby mountain ruins of Saqsaywamán. If you like walking uphill at high altitude (11,200 ft, 3,400 m), then you can hike up there for free from Cusco. But if you don't, then you can hire a cab like we did or take a bus. If you have your own vehicle, then take that, because the area surrounding Saqsaywamán is filled with other ruins which are pretty far apart for walking, but doable in one day by vehicle. We were definitely kicking ourselves for not bringing the bike when we went. Qenqo - included on the boleto A bit up the road from Saqsaywamán is Qenqo (KEN-ko), a temple carved out of a giant rock monolith, making it quite unique looking. And it has a bit of a sinister past as it was the site of human sacrifices. 
Apparently, the corpse of a baby sacrificed during Incan times was found here. Qenqo, Peru. Temple of the Moon - free Near Qenqo, there is a place called Templo de la Luna, which is an outcropping of rock with a trail that goes up it, and the area was supposedly dedicated to the mother Killa, or moon. If you're looking for free ruins, this is a great one, and you can even make a day trip by hiking around and exploring the other smaller free sites nearby. 
Some of the carvings around Temple of the Moon, near Qenqo, Peru. Puca Pucara - included on the boleto From there, it's either an hour walk up the road or a short bus ride to Puca Pucara (catch the blue and white Huerto bus for one Sol, which is $0.30). Puca Pucara (PU-ka pu-KA-ra) is a picturesque mountaintop fortress meaning red fort because of the red granite stones used. It is said that this outpost was built to protect Cusco from invading tribes coming from the Amazon region. 
The red fort of Puca Pucara, Peru. Tambomachay - included on the boleto 
The Incan baths of Tambomachay, Peru. And finally, just a five minute walk from Puca Pucara is Tambomachay (TAM-bo-ma-CHAI), the last of the major Incan ruins near Saqsaywamán. It's also known as the “Bath of the Inca" because it has gorgeous fountains of trickling water, and may have served as a spa for the Incan elite.You can do all these sites in a day as long as you have a vehicle, hire a cab, or take busses. Either that or you're a hiking athlete who's already climbed Everest twice. The Sacred Valley From Cusco to Machu Picchu, there is a nice paved road (mostly) that connects every major Incan ruin in a relatively straight line, starting with Pisac. Tim and I went out of order because we really wanted to meet up with our friends at Moray, which was super fun. But without that variable, I would go in order with Pisac first.
Me pointing at more ruins in the distance at Pisac, Sacred Valley, Peru. Pisac - included on the boleto There is a cute cobble-stoned village of Pisac (PEE-saak) at the base of the mountains that is famous for its traditional morning market, and then there are the nearby cliffside ruins of Pisac high up on the peaks. These are some of the most impressive ruins you'll ever see, and because they're perched at the top of rugged mountains, they offer spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. 
The mountaintop ruins of Pisac, Sacred Valley, Peru. The Inca sure loved stacking rocks in high-up places. The site is surprisingly large as I found that after every turn in the cliffs, it just kept going. There are baths, fountains, geometric terraces, altars, and a temple to the sun god, Inti. It has a bit of everything you could ever want out of Incan ruins, and if you are adventurous, there are even trails to go off to distant cliffside ruins that you can see from the main ones, and you would definitely be the only people there. Moray - included on the boleto These terraced concentric circles look like they were made by aliens, and I'm sure there are people out there who believe that. Moray (MO-rai) is a lot more impressive in person than in photos, because as you stand on the edge of these terraces, you can really appreciate the immensity and perfection of them. 
The bizarre and beautiful Incan terraces of Moray, Peru. Some say they were used for agricultural experimentation, but the truth is, nobody knows for sure why they were built. Maybe the Inca just wanted outsiders to see them and stand in awe at their magnificence.The hike around the terraces shouldn't take more than 45 minutes, and if you don't like hiking, this is one of the few places that doesn't require lots of walking since you can park almost up to the edge and still get the full effect. The road here is dirt and goes through the cute village of Maras, a perfect place to stop for lunch. Maras Salinas - not included on the boleto, costs 10 Soles No more than a half hour away from Moray and past the town of Maras are the salt pools of Salinas, which is Spanish for saltworks. Originally, Tim and I had no intention of seeing a bunch of salt, but as our friends were camped there, we decided to go (camping overnight is free with entry). And I am so happy we did.
The Incan-made salt pools of Maras Salinas, Peru. The terraced evaporation pools were used by the Incas to collect salt from the salty stream that they ingeniously channeled onto each platform. It's strangely beautiful when the sun hits the shallow water, and the amount of work that went into converting this mountainside into their salt collection station is incredible.The boleto turistico does not cover this site, but it costs only ten Soles to get in (~$3). And best of all, the bathrooms are stocked with toilet paper and paper towels, whoa! Ollantaytambo - included on the boleto
The traditional Incan village of Ollantaytambo at sunset, Sacred Valley, Peru. Ollantaytambo (o-YAN-tai-TAM-bo) is not to be missed whether you have the boleto turistico or not, as it is one of my favorite places in all of Peru, and maybe even all of South America. It is both an Incan town and Incan ruins, and the village itself (no charge to visit) is the best representation of Incan city planning that exists today. In a perfectly grid-like design of narrow pedestrian-only streets, and buildings built onto Incan stonework, Ollantaytambo has channels of bubbling water along every road that not only give the town its plumbing, but also an atmospheric sound that follows you everywhere. 
There is something incredibly peaceful and perfect about Ollantaytambo, Peru. Ollantaytambo is touristy, but I can forgive it for that because I don't blame anyone for wanting to go there, and then wanting to stay forever. And what's more, the village is flanked on either end by granite peaks jutting into the air with Incan ruins along their sides. 
The steeply perched granaries of Pinkuylluna. 
Tim and I catching a kiss in Pinkuylluna, at Oyantaytambo, Peru. (It was totally staged) One of these sites, the old Incan granaries called Pinkuylluna (PIN-kui-YU-na), is free to go to and offers fantastic views. The hike up is a bit strenuous, but once you're there, you will be thankful you made it to what are perhaps the most spectacular grain warehouses in the world. 
The Incan ruins of Ollantaytambo which overlook the village of Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley, Peru. And then across town there are the main ruins of Ollantaytambo (boleto turistico required), complete with a fortress, temples, terraces, and baths. Climbing up into the fortress and seeing the Temple of the Sun with its calendar to judge the solstices was amazing enough. But my personal favorite part were the baths and buildings below the fort where channels of flowing river water made for heavenly fountains in every house. I could just see the Incan Emperor Pachacutiq admiring this masterpiece of his with complete pride. 
Ollantaytambo is an Incan paradise of running water, gardens, mountains, and impressive stone structures. Machu Picchu Finally, the literal pinnacle of all Incan ruins: Machu Picchu. It's not cheap to go there (the ticket alone is 152 Soles, ~$45), but it's one of those things you really must do when visiting Peru. I was actually quite worried about going because I'd heard that it had gotten so touristy, that it wasn't worth it. But Tim and I, and our motorcyclist friend Aditya who came with us (a.k.a. Mak), really lucked out.Maybe it was because we went in the low season (Dec-Feb), or maybe it was because the weather was perfectly misty and mysterious. But my visit to Machu Picchu was everything I'd ever wanted and more.
The misty glory of Machu Picchu, Peru. Because you can't actually get to Machu Picchu by road, it's one of the most complicated sites to visit, in my opinion. So I'm going to write a whole blog on how we did it with the motorcycle, and how we cut the costs of buying an expensive train ride (the cheapest of which is $45 per person from Ollantaytambo, one way, yikes!).So stay tuned, and I hope I have inspired somebody out there to experience these incredible Incan sites for themselves. A Final Note One of the greatest things about visiting these Incan ruins was that we came to realize that even though the Inca Empire may be gone, the Inca people and their culture are still here. By riding along our paved version of the “Inca Trail", we came face to face with the Incan descendants who built these monuments, we heard them speak their soft and majestic language of Quechua, and we were dazzled by the colors of their textiles and the smells of their cooking. Even the rhythms of these people is not just in the traditional pan-pipe music you hear playing in the tourist shops, but in the modern music that popular Peruvian artists are still making.
So unlike Machu Picchu, the Incan way of life is not gone, it's not ruined, and it's not lost. It's here, it's alive, and in the land of the Inca, it's all around us.
November 22, 2018
Nov. 22, 2018 - The Road to Cusco
By Marisa Happy Thanksgiving to all of you out there who celebrate it! Even though it's another year where we're unable to eat turkey with family, at least we are in the beautiful and historic city of Cusco, the old capital of the Incas. 
Me standing next to some of the incredible stonework of the Incas, Cusco, Peru. Cusco itself is an incredible destination, but the journey here from Lima wasn't half-bad either. Like usual, we didn't take the normal route or main highway, and instead opted to journey through an area of cascading waterfalls, snowy peaks, and wind-carved canyons. It's a national park with a name I can never remember nor pronounce: Reserva Paisajistica Nor Yauyos-Cochas, and if you are ever in the area, I highly recommend this gorgeous ride. 
Tim, the bike, and the mountains of Reserva Paisajistica Nor Yauyos-Cochas, Peru. 
The road between San Mateo and Vilca rose in altitude and wound between mountains that were covered in snow at their peaks. Herds of llamas and alpacas watched us pass with their long-legged babies keeping close to their sides. It was unpaved, but definitely a doable road with only a few steep rocky switchbacks that brought out the wobbles and even tipped us once, breaking our windshield (we got a new one in Huancayo).
When we arrived in Vilca, we were greeted with cascades of turquoise water flowing between the green hillsides, and it was so stunning, I thought, “Why is Vilca, Peru not a major tourist destination?" Maybe the remoteness of its location keeps it hidden, but Vilca wasn't even the star of the show as the waterfalls just got bigger and more impressive as we made our way toward Tomas District.
Cascadas de Carhuayno, Peru After less than a day of riding, I felt like I had left the snowy alpine world of grazing llamas and entered a tropical realm of crystal waters. The river just kept toppling over rocky ledges until it led us into the enveloping walls of a narrow canyon striped in many layers of different rocks. It's called Uchco Canyon, not a very well known place, but I think it should be on anyone's Peru ride list. And if you were to go north instead of south like we did, you would be heading opposite to the river and facing each and every gorgeous waterfall and tumble of the river. 
Tim riding through Uchco Canyon near Tomas District, Peru. 
Striking red mountains between Tomas District and Huancayo, Peru. We eventually reached the city of Huancayo where we got a new front tire, windshield, and witnessed a cultural parade of traditional costumes and dancing. 
A parade in Huancayo, Peru. The plan after Huancayo was simply to get to Cusco. Like usual, we didn't want to go the main road, so we took a parallel route and ended up waiting at road blocks until night, almost got run off a cliff by angry drivers in the rain, and then the next day dropped our bike in a river crossing. All ended up well, but I don't think that road was worth it, and would advise people to just take the highway and find your off-road adventures elsewhere in Peru, of which there are plenty. 
The main road is called 3S, the road we took is called 3S, and the road north of it is also 3S. Go figure. The main highway turned out to be paved, fast, and a real breeze. We even met up with a fellow motorcycle traveler from the States, Will Buckner, and had a blast zipping through the countryside with him before we had to part ways.
At long last, we arrived in Cusco, the historic capital of the Incan Empire. It has been a dream of mine to see this city since childhood, when I'd first heard stories of the famed Incan stonework and winding streets between gloriously-decorated Spanish churches. And now that I'm here, I will say that Cusco does not disappoint.
Iglesia de la Compañia de Jesús, Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru. 
Fountain of the Incan leader Pachacuti who is believed to have built Machu Picchu. Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru. But to go along with all of Cusco's grandeur and spectacular sights are a whole lot of tourists. I feel that Tim and I have been in such remote areas of Peru, places where we feel as if we are the first foreigners to ever step foot there, that this cosmopolitan concoction of people from around the world speaking in all sorts of languages, wearing backpacks and with blond hair, it's a real culture shock for us.
And because of all the tourism, Cusco is expensive compared to the rest of Peru, as a meal can cost twice or three times the price here. But sometimes it's worth it, as I'm not going to complain about the sushi bars and French bakeries that we have stumbled across.
The old Incan walls with a Spanish church built on top, Qoricancha, Cusco, Peru. 
Spanish courtyard of Qoricancha, Cusco, Peru. We still have a few things we want to see here before we head into the Sacred Valley and finally get to Machu Picchu, but I'm already feeling the excitement of being in the land where the Inca reigned, as their presence is still felt, not just in the stones, but in the faces of the people, the colors of their clothing, and the smells of incense wafting through the air and meats cooking over the stove. It's a heady vibe to be here, where civilizations and empires have come and gone, and we are certainly enjoying every second of it.
Until next time.
A local woman of Cusco sitting against an old Incan wall.
Me standing next to some of the incredible stonework of the Incas, Cusco, Peru. Cusco itself is an incredible destination, but the journey here from Lima wasn't half-bad either. Like usual, we didn't take the normal route or main highway, and instead opted to journey through an area of cascading waterfalls, snowy peaks, and wind-carved canyons. It's a national park with a name I can never remember nor pronounce: Reserva Paisajistica Nor Yauyos-Cochas, and if you are ever in the area, I highly recommend this gorgeous ride. 
Tim, the bike, and the mountains of Reserva Paisajistica Nor Yauyos-Cochas, Peru. 
The road between San Mateo and Vilca rose in altitude and wound between mountains that were covered in snow at their peaks. Herds of llamas and alpacas watched us pass with their long-legged babies keeping close to their sides. It was unpaved, but definitely a doable road with only a few steep rocky switchbacks that brought out the wobbles and even tipped us once, breaking our windshield (we got a new one in Huancayo).When we arrived in Vilca, we were greeted with cascades of turquoise water flowing between the green hillsides, and it was so stunning, I thought, “Why is Vilca, Peru not a major tourist destination?" Maybe the remoteness of its location keeps it hidden, but Vilca wasn't even the star of the show as the waterfalls just got bigger and more impressive as we made our way toward Tomas District.
Cascadas de Carhuayno, Peru After less than a day of riding, I felt like I had left the snowy alpine world of grazing llamas and entered a tropical realm of crystal waters. The river just kept toppling over rocky ledges until it led us into the enveloping walls of a narrow canyon striped in many layers of different rocks. It's called Uchco Canyon, not a very well known place, but I think it should be on anyone's Peru ride list. And if you were to go north instead of south like we did, you would be heading opposite to the river and facing each and every gorgeous waterfall and tumble of the river. 
Tim riding through Uchco Canyon near Tomas District, Peru. 
Striking red mountains between Tomas District and Huancayo, Peru. We eventually reached the city of Huancayo where we got a new front tire, windshield, and witnessed a cultural parade of traditional costumes and dancing. 
A parade in Huancayo, Peru. The plan after Huancayo was simply to get to Cusco. Like usual, we didn't want to go the main road, so we took a parallel route and ended up waiting at road blocks until night, almost got run off a cliff by angry drivers in the rain, and then the next day dropped our bike in a river crossing. All ended up well, but I don't think that road was worth it, and would advise people to just take the highway and find your off-road adventures elsewhere in Peru, of which there are plenty. 
The main road is called 3S, the road we took is called 3S, and the road north of it is also 3S. Go figure. The main highway turned out to be paved, fast, and a real breeze. We even met up with a fellow motorcycle traveler from the States, Will Buckner, and had a blast zipping through the countryside with him before we had to part ways.At long last, we arrived in Cusco, the historic capital of the Incan Empire. It has been a dream of mine to see this city since childhood, when I'd first heard stories of the famed Incan stonework and winding streets between gloriously-decorated Spanish churches. And now that I'm here, I will say that Cusco does not disappoint.
Iglesia de la Compañia de Jesús, Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru. 
Fountain of the Incan leader Pachacuti who is believed to have built Machu Picchu. Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru. But to go along with all of Cusco's grandeur and spectacular sights are a whole lot of tourists. I feel that Tim and I have been in such remote areas of Peru, places where we feel as if we are the first foreigners to ever step foot there, that this cosmopolitan concoction of people from around the world speaking in all sorts of languages, wearing backpacks and with blond hair, it's a real culture shock for us.And because of all the tourism, Cusco is expensive compared to the rest of Peru, as a meal can cost twice or three times the price here. But sometimes it's worth it, as I'm not going to complain about the sushi bars and French bakeries that we have stumbled across.
The old Incan walls with a Spanish church built on top, Qoricancha, Cusco, Peru. 
Spanish courtyard of Qoricancha, Cusco, Peru. We still have a few things we want to see here before we head into the Sacred Valley and finally get to Machu Picchu, but I'm already feeling the excitement of being in the land where the Inca reigned, as their presence is still felt, not just in the stones, but in the faces of the people, the colors of their clothing, and the smells of incense wafting through the air and meats cooking over the stove. It's a heady vibe to be here, where civilizations and empires have come and gone, and we are certainly enjoying every second of it.Until next time.
A local woman of Cusco sitting against an old Incan wall.
November 8, 2018
Enchanting Ecuador
By Marisa Ecuador is one of the smaller countries of South America, but even so, a whole lot of biodiversity and culture is packed into its borders. You can pretty much come to Ecuador and fulfill your South American dream, no matter what it is: from meeting Andean peoples in ponchos and bowler hats, to swimming with pink dolphins of the Amazonian rivers, to exploring Colonial Spanish cities perfectly painted and preserved, and you can even see whales, dolphins, or the Blue-Footed Boobies of Ecuador's coast made famous by the Galapagos. In Ecuador, there's a little bit of something for everyone here. 
Named after its geographical position of being directly on the equator, Ecuador has a consistent climate all year round with no real seasons per se, but temperatures completely depend on altitude. Since the mountains of the Andes can get quite high, you can experience snow on the equator, and then a few hours later, be at the beach.
Ecuador is also an easy country to travel in. Not only are the distances between attractions short by South American standards, but it's a well-developed country with modern infrastructure and good roads. To make matters even easier, Ecuador uses the US dollar as its official currency.
For someone who is interested in going to South America, but perhaps has never traveled there before, Ecuador is the perfect introduction to a huge continent that can be at times daunting and difficult to navigate.
The following is a list of some of our favorite experiences in Ecuador, followed by a few challenges we faced while traveling there. Quito
A lovely street in the old town of Quito, Ecuador. Usually, Tim and I avoid capital cities in Latin America because they are crowded and polluted with not much to offer as far as the types of things we like to see. But Quito is an exception to this rule. Situated across many steep hilltops and blessed with sunny days following chilly nights, Quito is not just Ecuador's capital, it's also the largest Spanish Colonial city in the Americas, and a gorgeously preserved Colonial city as well. You can spend days wandering through its web-like roads, peering into ornately-decorated churches, and sitting at cafes on cobble-stoned streets. Mindo and Cloud Forests 
The bike in its wild element at our campground in Mindo, Ecuador. If you like the biodiversity and the lush greenery of the rainforest, but you don't want to feel like you're melting away in the heat and humidity as you hike through the jungle, then perhaps the cloud forest is perfect for you. Cloud forests are generally at a higher altitude with a temperate climate and are obviously known for their fog, but also for their abundance of flora and fauna. In Ecuador, Mindo is the usual jumping-off point to experience cloud forests first-hand, and the surrounding area is filled with waterfalls, butterfly sanctuaries, and hummingbird parks. 
One of the many waterfalls at Nambillo, Mindo, Ecuador. Whales and the Coast When it comes to sunny tropical beaches, Ecuador cannot compare to the beaches of Colombia or most Central American countries. This is because of the consistent cloud cover that seems to hang over Ecuador's coastline, and the temperature of its Pacific waters might be considered chilly to some, though beautiful beaches and occasional perfect days do exist. But what Ecuador does have is a whole lot of marine life, and during Humpback Whale breeding season, there's no better place to be. 
A Humpback Whale diving near Puerto Lopez, Ecuador. From Puerto Lopez, it's a cheap boat ride ($20 per person) to see the whales waving their fins, tail slapping, and breaching into the air. June to September is the best time to go, and you can also combine this experience with a ride to Isla de la Plata, a tour that's considered to be Ecuador's “Poor Man's Galapagos". Here you will most likely see some of the species that the Galapagos Islands are famous for, such as the Magnificent Frigatebird with its red throat on the males, or the Blue-Footed Boobie. 
The oh-so-popular Blue-Footed Boobies. I think people just like saying their name. Of course, the Galapagos Islands themselves are Ecuador's number one tourist attraction, but because of their distance and cost (and the fact that they're islands we can't get to on a motorcycle), Tim and I decided that they should be reserved for a trip in and of itself. Quilotoa Crater and Cotopaxi Volcano 
Me in front of Quilotoa Crater, Ecuador. Quilotoa Crater is a picturesque dormant volcanic crater that is now filled with a bright teal-colored lake. It's located high up in the Andes mountains at 12,800 ft. (3,900 meters), and is easily accessible as the parking lot nearly comes right up to the rim. There are hiking trails and camping spots all around, but what we enjoyed most was riding around the area and experiencing the local Andean cultures who mix their Spanish with indigenous languages and sell incredible wool and alpaca ponchos and crafts. 
Our bike, the KTM 1190 on the right, and our friends Craig and Michelle's bike on the left, BMW F800. Cotopaxi is Ecuador's Mt. Fuji: a snow-covered, perfectly conical volcano with a national park around it. Unfortunately, national parks in Ecuador don't allow motorcycles in (more on that later), but we were able to hitch along with some local guides to get into the park and snap some pics. Ecuador also hosts a bunch of other high-altitude national parks, many of which we didn't get a chance to visit, though they sound well worth the effort from talking to other travelers. 
Can you pick out the snow-capped volcano of Cotopaxi from the clouds? Amazonia 
An old dug-out canoe we found on the backroads between Misahuallí and El Coca, Ecuador. Going to the Amazon is the highlight for many visitors to South America, and Ecuador is a great place to get into the thick of the jungle, meet some indigenous peoples, and see some unique wildlife. Unfortunately, joining a tour is an expensive investment, from several hundred dollars per person to thousands of dollars, and we discovered that not much of that money goes directly to the local communities.
Also, the Amazon region in South America is best navigated by river, not by motorcycle. To get the full Amazon experience, many people hop on boats, whether dug-out canoes to jungle lodges, or passenger ferries to far off places like Iquitos, Peru or Manaus, Brazil. So Tim and I decided that we would most likely do an extensive Amazon journey at a later date when we find the right tour and don't have a motorcycle with us to worry about.
View over the Napo River in Misahuallí, Ecuador. Luckily, we were still able to get a good feel for the Amazon rainforest by traveling by bike from Misahaullí to EL Coca and then to Tena. We stayed in cabins along the Napo River in Misahuallí, learned about indigenous people at the MACCO museum, got up-close and personal to lots of animals at the Coca Zoo, and then swam in waterfalls at Tena where butterflies fluttered around us. It was pretty perfect. Challenges we faced in Ecuador Theft Ecuador is no stranger to tourism, and people have learned that tourists are wealthy targets. Tim got his phone stolen outside of Quito, along with our friend at the same time, someone tried to unzip the pockets of a third friend to get her phone, and another traveling couple we know got their camera stolen at a festival in Quito. We've seen small children put on a show for us while their parents came up behind to snatch our wallet (did not work thankfully), so pickpocketing is a full-time job for some people in Ecuador. We had not seen anything like this level of petty robbery previously on our trip, so all travelers to Ecuador, keep your belongings close! No Motorcycles Allowed in National Parks Obviously this only affects those of us traveling by motorcycle, but it was a point of frustration for us because all other vehicles are let into the national parks, areas which boast lots of scenic roads that we really wanted to see. Just not motorcycles. I've heard that the reason for this is the noise that motorcycles produce scare the wildlife, which is a fair point, but our bike and the type of bikes mostly found in Ecuador (around 250 cc's) are quiet, and they are not your typical American rumbling Harleys. Also, as in all of Latin America, people have no problem blaring music at all sorts of decibels from every car and storefront. Noise is a part of daily life out here, so I'm not sure why the Ecuadorian park service has a thing against motorcycles only. Expense Compared to its neighbors, Ecuador is an expensive country. It's not just expensive for tourists, but imports (such as motorcycles and parts) cost twice as much as in the States. Because Ecuador uses US dollars, it's easy to compare. So even though Ecuadorian salaries are lower than US salaries, vehicles and many goods cost twice as much as we would pay, which makes it hard for an Ecuadorian person to get out of poverty, and hard for us to fix our bike when things go wrong. Tourism Having just come out of stigmatized Colombia, we entered Ecuador and couldn't believe how many tourists there were. Obviously we are also tourists, so it's a hypocritical thing to not like them, but the amount of tourists swarming around a single waterfall in Baños, or all pressed up against each other in the thermal pools is a bit alarming, and definitely took away from the charm of the place. 
Try getting a shot of this waterfall without people in it. Nambillo, Mindo, Ecuador. In Conclusion 
An Incan temple converted into a Spanish church, San Agustín Hacienda, Ecuador. Despite having a bunch of motorcycle trouble in Ecuador, and therefore having to stay about a month longer than we'd expected, we enjoyed our time in Ecuador to the fullest. It's so easy to make loops around the country, each time coming back to the amenities, beauty, and convenience of Quito situated at its heart. So I would say that all around, Ecuador is a gorgeous and enjoyable country to travel in.
For its size, there are a remarkable amount of different sights and experiences to be had in Ecuador. When it comes to South American nature and culture, you can get a good taste of whatever it is you're searching for, even Incan ruins which can be found as far north as Quito. Ecuador also has an abundance of different climates, and you can pick and choose your temperature and ecosystem according to your altitude. So if you want to experience South America in a reliable and user-friendly way, Ecuador is the country to come to.
Named after its geographical position of being directly on the equator, Ecuador has a consistent climate all year round with no real seasons per se, but temperatures completely depend on altitude. Since the mountains of the Andes can get quite high, you can experience snow on the equator, and then a few hours later, be at the beach.Ecuador is also an easy country to travel in. Not only are the distances between attractions short by South American standards, but it's a well-developed country with modern infrastructure and good roads. To make matters even easier, Ecuador uses the US dollar as its official currency.
For someone who is interested in going to South America, but perhaps has never traveled there before, Ecuador is the perfect introduction to a huge continent that can be at times daunting and difficult to navigate.The following is a list of some of our favorite experiences in Ecuador, followed by a few challenges we faced while traveling there. Quito
A lovely street in the old town of Quito, Ecuador. Usually, Tim and I avoid capital cities in Latin America because they are crowded and polluted with not much to offer as far as the types of things we like to see. But Quito is an exception to this rule. Situated across many steep hilltops and blessed with sunny days following chilly nights, Quito is not just Ecuador's capital, it's also the largest Spanish Colonial city in the Americas, and a gorgeously preserved Colonial city as well. You can spend days wandering through its web-like roads, peering into ornately-decorated churches, and sitting at cafes on cobble-stoned streets. Mindo and Cloud Forests 
The bike in its wild element at our campground in Mindo, Ecuador. If you like the biodiversity and the lush greenery of the rainforest, but you don't want to feel like you're melting away in the heat and humidity as you hike through the jungle, then perhaps the cloud forest is perfect for you. Cloud forests are generally at a higher altitude with a temperate climate and are obviously known for their fog, but also for their abundance of flora and fauna. In Ecuador, Mindo is the usual jumping-off point to experience cloud forests first-hand, and the surrounding area is filled with waterfalls, butterfly sanctuaries, and hummingbird parks. 
One of the many waterfalls at Nambillo, Mindo, Ecuador. Whales and the Coast When it comes to sunny tropical beaches, Ecuador cannot compare to the beaches of Colombia or most Central American countries. This is because of the consistent cloud cover that seems to hang over Ecuador's coastline, and the temperature of its Pacific waters might be considered chilly to some, though beautiful beaches and occasional perfect days do exist. But what Ecuador does have is a whole lot of marine life, and during Humpback Whale breeding season, there's no better place to be. 
A Humpback Whale diving near Puerto Lopez, Ecuador. From Puerto Lopez, it's a cheap boat ride ($20 per person) to see the whales waving their fins, tail slapping, and breaching into the air. June to September is the best time to go, and you can also combine this experience with a ride to Isla de la Plata, a tour that's considered to be Ecuador's “Poor Man's Galapagos". Here you will most likely see some of the species that the Galapagos Islands are famous for, such as the Magnificent Frigatebird with its red throat on the males, or the Blue-Footed Boobie. 
The oh-so-popular Blue-Footed Boobies. I think people just like saying their name. Of course, the Galapagos Islands themselves are Ecuador's number one tourist attraction, but because of their distance and cost (and the fact that they're islands we can't get to on a motorcycle), Tim and I decided that they should be reserved for a trip in and of itself. Quilotoa Crater and Cotopaxi Volcano 
Me in front of Quilotoa Crater, Ecuador. Quilotoa Crater is a picturesque dormant volcanic crater that is now filled with a bright teal-colored lake. It's located high up in the Andes mountains at 12,800 ft. (3,900 meters), and is easily accessible as the parking lot nearly comes right up to the rim. There are hiking trails and camping spots all around, but what we enjoyed most was riding around the area and experiencing the local Andean cultures who mix their Spanish with indigenous languages and sell incredible wool and alpaca ponchos and crafts. 
Our bike, the KTM 1190 on the right, and our friends Craig and Michelle's bike on the left, BMW F800. Cotopaxi is Ecuador's Mt. Fuji: a snow-covered, perfectly conical volcano with a national park around it. Unfortunately, national parks in Ecuador don't allow motorcycles in (more on that later), but we were able to hitch along with some local guides to get into the park and snap some pics. Ecuador also hosts a bunch of other high-altitude national parks, many of which we didn't get a chance to visit, though they sound well worth the effort from talking to other travelers. 
Can you pick out the snow-capped volcano of Cotopaxi from the clouds? Amazonia 
An old dug-out canoe we found on the backroads between Misahuallí and El Coca, Ecuador. Going to the Amazon is the highlight for many visitors to South America, and Ecuador is a great place to get into the thick of the jungle, meet some indigenous peoples, and see some unique wildlife. Unfortunately, joining a tour is an expensive investment, from several hundred dollars per person to thousands of dollars, and we discovered that not much of that money goes directly to the local communities. Also, the Amazon region in South America is best navigated by river, not by motorcycle. To get the full Amazon experience, many people hop on boats, whether dug-out canoes to jungle lodges, or passenger ferries to far off places like Iquitos, Peru or Manaus, Brazil. So Tim and I decided that we would most likely do an extensive Amazon journey at a later date when we find the right tour and don't have a motorcycle with us to worry about.
View over the Napo River in Misahuallí, Ecuador. Luckily, we were still able to get a good feel for the Amazon rainforest by traveling by bike from Misahaullí to EL Coca and then to Tena. We stayed in cabins along the Napo River in Misahuallí, learned about indigenous people at the MACCO museum, got up-close and personal to lots of animals at the Coca Zoo, and then swam in waterfalls at Tena where butterflies fluttered around us. It was pretty perfect. Challenges we faced in Ecuador Theft Ecuador is no stranger to tourism, and people have learned that tourists are wealthy targets. Tim got his phone stolen outside of Quito, along with our friend at the same time, someone tried to unzip the pockets of a third friend to get her phone, and another traveling couple we know got their camera stolen at a festival in Quito. We've seen small children put on a show for us while their parents came up behind to snatch our wallet (did not work thankfully), so pickpocketing is a full-time job for some people in Ecuador. We had not seen anything like this level of petty robbery previously on our trip, so all travelers to Ecuador, keep your belongings close! No Motorcycles Allowed in National Parks Obviously this only affects those of us traveling by motorcycle, but it was a point of frustration for us because all other vehicles are let into the national parks, areas which boast lots of scenic roads that we really wanted to see. Just not motorcycles. I've heard that the reason for this is the noise that motorcycles produce scare the wildlife, which is a fair point, but our bike and the type of bikes mostly found in Ecuador (around 250 cc's) are quiet, and they are not your typical American rumbling Harleys. Also, as in all of Latin America, people have no problem blaring music at all sorts of decibels from every car and storefront. Noise is a part of daily life out here, so I'm not sure why the Ecuadorian park service has a thing against motorcycles only. Expense Compared to its neighbors, Ecuador is an expensive country. It's not just expensive for tourists, but imports (such as motorcycles and parts) cost twice as much as in the States. Because Ecuador uses US dollars, it's easy to compare. So even though Ecuadorian salaries are lower than US salaries, vehicles and many goods cost twice as much as we would pay, which makes it hard for an Ecuadorian person to get out of poverty, and hard for us to fix our bike when things go wrong. Tourism Having just come out of stigmatized Colombia, we entered Ecuador and couldn't believe how many tourists there were. Obviously we are also tourists, so it's a hypocritical thing to not like them, but the amount of tourists swarming around a single waterfall in Baños, or all pressed up against each other in the thermal pools is a bit alarming, and definitely took away from the charm of the place. 
Try getting a shot of this waterfall without people in it. Nambillo, Mindo, Ecuador. In Conclusion 
An Incan temple converted into a Spanish church, San Agustín Hacienda, Ecuador. Despite having a bunch of motorcycle trouble in Ecuador, and therefore having to stay about a month longer than we'd expected, we enjoyed our time in Ecuador to the fullest. It's so easy to make loops around the country, each time coming back to the amenities, beauty, and convenience of Quito situated at its heart. So I would say that all around, Ecuador is a gorgeous and enjoyable country to travel in.For its size, there are a remarkable amount of different sights and experiences to be had in Ecuador. When it comes to South American nature and culture, you can get a good taste of whatever it is you're searching for, even Incan ruins which can be found as far north as Quito. Ecuador also has an abundance of different climates, and you can pick and choose your temperature and ecosystem according to your altitude. So if you want to experience South America in a reliable and user-friendly way, Ecuador is the country to come to.
November 7, 2018
Nov. 7, 2018 - The White Heart of Peru
By Marisa 
When it comes to Peru, the Inca steal the show. Machu Picchu, Cusco, and the Inca Trail are all things that usually come to mind when thinking of Peru. I certainly never pictured glacier-capped mountains and strikingly-blue alpine lakes tucked amidst them. But I do now.
Only the local Peruvians who have been farming these high-altitude slopes for centuries, overlanders like ourselves, and the most adventurous of travelers ever delve into this region. It's called the Cordillera Blanca (meaning white mountain range), and has some of the highest mountain passes in the world.
I now believe that anyone who comes to Peru just to go to Cusco and Machu Picchu is only seeing the face of Peru, the one in all the postcards and brochures. But they will be missing out on the heart of Peru, the one where it's only you and the llamas standing between stone ruins of long lost civilizations, and where red-cheeked babies peek out from the colorful swaddles on local women's backs. It's where white-washed peaks blend into the clouds and turquoise lakes dot the landscape.
One of the many glacial lakes outside of Huayhuash National Park. 
A calf decorated in the traditional Peruvian fashion: with color, beauty, and practicality (knowing which cows are yours). It's a region that felt like we were transported back a thousand years, to a time in Peru before the Spanish and before modernization, a place where I truly felt like Hiram Bingham discovering Machu Picchu for the first time, as if no foreigner had ever stepped foot there before. It's a land hidden in mist and snow and terrible roads that keep it separated from the rest of the world, isolated and proud. When it comes to Peruvian majesty, the Cordillera Blanca is truly the tip of the crown. 
Our adventures into the Cordillera Blanca started in Huaraz, the largest city of the region, where as you may remember, I was recuperating as my foot healed from an earlier spill. But after a couple weeks in Huaraz, the pain had subsided and I was hobbling around pretty well on crutches. And so with the two crutches strapped onto the front of the bike, we decided we were ready to continue with our journey, and luckily, we weren't going to tackle this isolated region alone. We were going to do it all with two fellow KTM riders: the Adventure Haks. 
Brendon and Kira Hak with their KTM 1290, and me on our KTM 1190. We had been online stalking Brendon and Kira Hak for quite some time because they were a couple just like us riding south through the Americas on a KTM. We have a few slight differences: they're from Canada and we're from the US, and they have the newer model bike, the 1290 Super Adventure, whereas we have the 1190 Adventure. But we had a lot more in common than differences, and I just knew that we were going to hit it off great with them. They also have an incredible blog and stunning photos, oh and they can cook up gourmet feasts while camping, what's not to like?
So after months of near misses, we finally were able to meet up, and the four of us made our first stop at the stunningly-blue lake of Laguna Paron. Situated between snowy peaks, this lake was a perfect introduction to the regal beauty of the Cordillera Blanca.
Kira and Brendon admiring the views of Laguna Paron, Perú. Next, we knew we had to really get a taste for these mountains, and that meant going into Huascarán. As you can see in the following map, the green area is Huascarán National Park, named after its highest peak and the 16th century Incan Emperor, Huáscar. This park encompasses the majority of what is known as the Cordillera Blanca, and there are four passes, three of which we took. The first two are shown here: the northern pass which is not paved and more rugged, and the southern pass which is paved, pristine, and well-traveled. 
Though Google seems to think the entirely of this loop can be done in 8 hours and 10 minutes, in reality it took us five days, and each white circle is where we camped. But it was five glorious days of wild camping, telling stories around the campfire, and unforgettable views.
Both passes are stunning and literally breath-taking since the northern road reaches an altitude of nearly 15,000 ft. (4,500 meters) and the southern road reaches over 15,000 ft. We kept our coca leaf tea handy for the mornings to help combat the inevitable headaches and stomach cramps that came from altitude sickness, as it took a few days before we acclimated.
A pretty sweet spot to camp. 
Perhaps the most perfect valley in the universe. Once completing the passes, we took a break in the city of Huaraz to shower and get some more supplies. But soon we were off again, this time doing the most southern pass in the park, the last pass in Huascarán. It's not a very well-trodden route, but it turned out to be one of the most enjoyable and picturesque rides we've ever been on. Not only were there snow-capped mountains, but herds of sheep scrambled their way through pond-dotted bogs and marshlands that reflected all the blues of the sky. And then over the pass things became drier with windswept plains, thatched huts for shepherds, ancient petroglyphs on the cliff walls, and some of the strangest looking trees we've ever seen. 
Puya trees, a.k.a. Queen of the Andes. And they are huge. 
As if we didn't get enough stares on our bike already, we added crutches to the front to complete the look. 
We were greeted with clear skies and cows in the morning at this campsite. 
The grassy plateau around Huánuco Pampa, Perú. Once reaching the eastern side of the pass, we camped in a grassy field filled with every type of grazing animal you could name, including alpaca. It was an ideal spot to stay the night since it was situated right next to an Incan ruin called Huánuco Pampa. Though I'd never heard of it before, this immense city of 47 acres (19 hectares) and over 4,000 buildings was an important Incan metropolis of commerce situated on the Pre-Hispanic highway between Cusco and Quito. 
Two of many perfectly-aligned doorways leading out of the city of Huánuco Pampa, Perú. 
Me in my alpaca sweater in Huánuco Pampa, and I'm now down to only one crutch! I was deeply impressed with this city for the size of its structures, the fabulous stonework of mortar-less walls perfectly slanted upwards to withstand any earthquake, and the carvings of monkeys or lizards on the doorways. But even more than that, it was the feeling of the place, because we were truly alone in a deserted city that had once thrived, now left abandoned. It was an eerie and also exciting feeling, and I felt, once again, like I was the first explorer to ever set foot there.
Having come to the end of Huascarán National Park, and on the Amazon side of the mountains, we knew we'd have to cross the Andes one more time to get back on the western side. And what better place to do so than at the next National Park: Huayhuash (pronounced “Why wash?", a question which Tim frequently ponders).
The unreal mountains and valleys near Huayhuash National Park. Though there are no roads which go straight through the park, we were able to make our way alongside it, all within view of its stunning peaks. Plus, we were greeted with more crystal lakes and green valleys that looked like they should have been out of The Land Before Time.
Sounds like pure bliss, right? Well, not all of our adventures went as planned. Three out of four of us came down with some sort of unpleasant stomach sickness (lucky you Brendon for avoiding it with your spicy food), and Tim and I dropped the bike, ummm, I'm not even going to tell you how many times. Amazingly, and much to our chagrin, the Haks did not even drop their bike once.
Not our finest moment. And then there was that one day where we got ourselves into a spot that I thought we may never get out of. The first half of the day went fine, I would even call it glorious. We had mostly clear skies, stunning vistas, and a successful crossing of the highest pass we have been on to date: 16,375 ft. (4,991 meters)! By this point, we were very well-acclimated and didn't even noticed the lack of oxygen.
The strange part is that the second half of the day after the town of Rapaz was supposed to be a breeze because we were to take something labeled as a “major road". Major roads in Peru, we have learned, can be something of a bewildering misnomer, but this one takes the cake for misnomers, because it was practically impassable.
An unpleasant road, to say the least. As the afternoon fog set in, we started going up and up, starting at 12,000 ft. mind you. And because we were unable to see much, and we had just finished a huge pass, I kept thinking after an hour of ascending switchbacks, “How is it possible that we're still going up? Will this ever end?"
As you can imagine, the weather did not improve as we hit over 14,000 ft. and the fog turned into a rain that seemed to have formed at the beginning of time and had never stopped. Everything was just sludge, and we saw no one else on the road, which should have been a warning sign. Well, except there was that one man who had hiked up to get his pregnant cow. Oh, and the guy in the Hummer out for a muddy joy ride who nearly hit the Haks and then actually hit us (he was a jerk, is there a rule about that and Hummers?).
But even the Hummer guy warned us not to go any farther, giving us the tell-tale sign of death as he signaled with his finger to cut his throat. Unfortunately, we did not have enough gas to go back for hours down the sloshy mud pit of a road that we had come from. So onwards we went.
It's no fun to pull 500+ lb. bikes out of mud like this. The Hummer guy was right. Things got so nasty, Kira and I were pushing the bikes through the soupy mess as the boys did their best to make the tires grip onto anything and keep the bike upright. But it was slow going, hard breathing at that altitude, and night was coming on fast. So we figured we would continue pushing on (literally) until it was too dark to do so or we were too exhausted, and then we'd have to make camp and try again in the morning.
Luckily, we did not have to camp there, and eventually passed the worst of the muck. We were even greeted with a lovely herd of llamas that glared at us like they had never seen people on motorcycles before. Who knows, maybe they hadn't.
For the llamas, this wet, cold, and high-altitude terrain is no problem. The next sign of civilization came like a Christmas village of orange lights softly burning through the night fog, and we were ecstatic to find a hotel/restaurant as one of the first buildings. It had no running water, which made for a particularly disgusting toilet, but we weren't complaining. It was a roof over our heads and we were just glad to be out of that mud.
We all agreed that it was time to take a little break from our adventuring and do some laundry, buy some supplies, and get bike repairs/bike washing done. So we all headed to Lima, Peru's capital, and are here now getting rested and caught up with our blogs (sorry for the wait, rural Peru is not known for its internet).
The Adventure Haks have certainly lived up to their name, and it's sad that we may be parting ways now (though not forever, we will definitely be meeting up again along the road). But it's been some of the most memorable sights and experiences from the past two weeks, and I would highly recommend to anyone interested in coming to Peru to rent a vehicle (get full insurance, you'll need it) and come to the white heart of the Cordillera Blanca where you will see a side of this country that is majestic, breath-taking, and truly authentic. And you will have an adventure that you'll remember for the rest of your life. We certainly did.
What's next? The famous Incan ruins around Cusco, and of course, Machu Picchu... we'll keep you posted.
When it comes to Peru, the Inca steal the show. Machu Picchu, Cusco, and the Inca Trail are all things that usually come to mind when thinking of Peru. I certainly never pictured glacier-capped mountains and strikingly-blue alpine lakes tucked amidst them. But I do now.Only the local Peruvians who have been farming these high-altitude slopes for centuries, overlanders like ourselves, and the most adventurous of travelers ever delve into this region. It's called the Cordillera Blanca (meaning white mountain range), and has some of the highest mountain passes in the world.
I now believe that anyone who comes to Peru just to go to Cusco and Machu Picchu is only seeing the face of Peru, the one in all the postcards and brochures. But they will be missing out on the heart of Peru, the one where it's only you and the llamas standing between stone ruins of long lost civilizations, and where red-cheeked babies peek out from the colorful swaddles on local women's backs. It's where white-washed peaks blend into the clouds and turquoise lakes dot the landscape.
One of the many glacial lakes outside of Huayhuash National Park. 
A calf decorated in the traditional Peruvian fashion: with color, beauty, and practicality (knowing which cows are yours). It's a region that felt like we were transported back a thousand years, to a time in Peru before the Spanish and before modernization, a place where I truly felt like Hiram Bingham discovering Machu Picchu for the first time, as if no foreigner had ever stepped foot there before. It's a land hidden in mist and snow and terrible roads that keep it separated from the rest of the world, isolated and proud. When it comes to Peruvian majesty, the Cordillera Blanca is truly the tip of the crown. 
Our adventures into the Cordillera Blanca started in Huaraz, the largest city of the region, where as you may remember, I was recuperating as my foot healed from an earlier spill. But after a couple weeks in Huaraz, the pain had subsided and I was hobbling around pretty well on crutches. And so with the two crutches strapped onto the front of the bike, we decided we were ready to continue with our journey, and luckily, we weren't going to tackle this isolated region alone. We were going to do it all with two fellow KTM riders: the Adventure Haks. 
Brendon and Kira Hak with their KTM 1290, and me on our KTM 1190. We had been online stalking Brendon and Kira Hak for quite some time because they were a couple just like us riding south through the Americas on a KTM. We have a few slight differences: they're from Canada and we're from the US, and they have the newer model bike, the 1290 Super Adventure, whereas we have the 1190 Adventure. But we had a lot more in common than differences, and I just knew that we were going to hit it off great with them. They also have an incredible blog and stunning photos, oh and they can cook up gourmet feasts while camping, what's not to like?So after months of near misses, we finally were able to meet up, and the four of us made our first stop at the stunningly-blue lake of Laguna Paron. Situated between snowy peaks, this lake was a perfect introduction to the regal beauty of the Cordillera Blanca.
Kira and Brendon admiring the views of Laguna Paron, Perú. Next, we knew we had to really get a taste for these mountains, and that meant going into Huascarán. As you can see in the following map, the green area is Huascarán National Park, named after its highest peak and the 16th century Incan Emperor, Huáscar. This park encompasses the majority of what is known as the Cordillera Blanca, and there are four passes, three of which we took. The first two are shown here: the northern pass which is not paved and more rugged, and the southern pass which is paved, pristine, and well-traveled. 
Though Google seems to think the entirely of this loop can be done in 8 hours and 10 minutes, in reality it took us five days, and each white circle is where we camped. But it was five glorious days of wild camping, telling stories around the campfire, and unforgettable views.Both passes are stunning and literally breath-taking since the northern road reaches an altitude of nearly 15,000 ft. (4,500 meters) and the southern road reaches over 15,000 ft. We kept our coca leaf tea handy for the mornings to help combat the inevitable headaches and stomach cramps that came from altitude sickness, as it took a few days before we acclimated.
A pretty sweet spot to camp. 
Perhaps the most perfect valley in the universe. Once completing the passes, we took a break in the city of Huaraz to shower and get some more supplies. But soon we were off again, this time doing the most southern pass in the park, the last pass in Huascarán. It's not a very well-trodden route, but it turned out to be one of the most enjoyable and picturesque rides we've ever been on. Not only were there snow-capped mountains, but herds of sheep scrambled their way through pond-dotted bogs and marshlands that reflected all the blues of the sky. And then over the pass things became drier with windswept plains, thatched huts for shepherds, ancient petroglyphs on the cliff walls, and some of the strangest looking trees we've ever seen. 
Puya trees, a.k.a. Queen of the Andes. And they are huge. 
As if we didn't get enough stares on our bike already, we added crutches to the front to complete the look. 
We were greeted with clear skies and cows in the morning at this campsite. 
The grassy plateau around Huánuco Pampa, Perú. Once reaching the eastern side of the pass, we camped in a grassy field filled with every type of grazing animal you could name, including alpaca. It was an ideal spot to stay the night since it was situated right next to an Incan ruin called Huánuco Pampa. Though I'd never heard of it before, this immense city of 47 acres (19 hectares) and over 4,000 buildings was an important Incan metropolis of commerce situated on the Pre-Hispanic highway between Cusco and Quito. 
Two of many perfectly-aligned doorways leading out of the city of Huánuco Pampa, Perú. 
Me in my alpaca sweater in Huánuco Pampa, and I'm now down to only one crutch! I was deeply impressed with this city for the size of its structures, the fabulous stonework of mortar-less walls perfectly slanted upwards to withstand any earthquake, and the carvings of monkeys or lizards on the doorways. But even more than that, it was the feeling of the place, because we were truly alone in a deserted city that had once thrived, now left abandoned. It was an eerie and also exciting feeling, and I felt, once again, like I was the first explorer to ever set foot there.Having come to the end of Huascarán National Park, and on the Amazon side of the mountains, we knew we'd have to cross the Andes one more time to get back on the western side. And what better place to do so than at the next National Park: Huayhuash (pronounced “Why wash?", a question which Tim frequently ponders).
The unreal mountains and valleys near Huayhuash National Park. Though there are no roads which go straight through the park, we were able to make our way alongside it, all within view of its stunning peaks. Plus, we were greeted with more crystal lakes and green valleys that looked like they should have been out of The Land Before Time.Sounds like pure bliss, right? Well, not all of our adventures went as planned. Three out of four of us came down with some sort of unpleasant stomach sickness (lucky you Brendon for avoiding it with your spicy food), and Tim and I dropped the bike, ummm, I'm not even going to tell you how many times. Amazingly, and much to our chagrin, the Haks did not even drop their bike once.
Not our finest moment. And then there was that one day where we got ourselves into a spot that I thought we may never get out of. The first half of the day went fine, I would even call it glorious. We had mostly clear skies, stunning vistas, and a successful crossing of the highest pass we have been on to date: 16,375 ft. (4,991 meters)! By this point, we were very well-acclimated and didn't even noticed the lack of oxygen.The strange part is that the second half of the day after the town of Rapaz was supposed to be a breeze because we were to take something labeled as a “major road". Major roads in Peru, we have learned, can be something of a bewildering misnomer, but this one takes the cake for misnomers, because it was practically impassable.
An unpleasant road, to say the least. As the afternoon fog set in, we started going up and up, starting at 12,000 ft. mind you. And because we were unable to see much, and we had just finished a huge pass, I kept thinking after an hour of ascending switchbacks, “How is it possible that we're still going up? Will this ever end?"As you can imagine, the weather did not improve as we hit over 14,000 ft. and the fog turned into a rain that seemed to have formed at the beginning of time and had never stopped. Everything was just sludge, and we saw no one else on the road, which should have been a warning sign. Well, except there was that one man who had hiked up to get his pregnant cow. Oh, and the guy in the Hummer out for a muddy joy ride who nearly hit the Haks and then actually hit us (he was a jerk, is there a rule about that and Hummers?).
But even the Hummer guy warned us not to go any farther, giving us the tell-tale sign of death as he signaled with his finger to cut his throat. Unfortunately, we did not have enough gas to go back for hours down the sloshy mud pit of a road that we had come from. So onwards we went.
It's no fun to pull 500+ lb. bikes out of mud like this. The Hummer guy was right. Things got so nasty, Kira and I were pushing the bikes through the soupy mess as the boys did their best to make the tires grip onto anything and keep the bike upright. But it was slow going, hard breathing at that altitude, and night was coming on fast. So we figured we would continue pushing on (literally) until it was too dark to do so or we were too exhausted, and then we'd have to make camp and try again in the morning.Luckily, we did not have to camp there, and eventually passed the worst of the muck. We were even greeted with a lovely herd of llamas that glared at us like they had never seen people on motorcycles before. Who knows, maybe they hadn't.
For the llamas, this wet, cold, and high-altitude terrain is no problem. The next sign of civilization came like a Christmas village of orange lights softly burning through the night fog, and we were ecstatic to find a hotel/restaurant as one of the first buildings. It had no running water, which made for a particularly disgusting toilet, but we weren't complaining. It was a roof over our heads and we were just glad to be out of that mud.We all agreed that it was time to take a little break from our adventuring and do some laundry, buy some supplies, and get bike repairs/bike washing done. So we all headed to Lima, Peru's capital, and are here now getting rested and caught up with our blogs (sorry for the wait, rural Peru is not known for its internet).
The Adventure Haks have certainly lived up to their name, and it's sad that we may be parting ways now (though not forever, we will definitely be meeting up again along the road). But it's been some of the most memorable sights and experiences from the past two weeks, and I would highly recommend to anyone interested in coming to Peru to rent a vehicle (get full insurance, you'll need it) and come to the white heart of the Cordillera Blanca where you will see a side of this country that is majestic, breath-taking, and truly authentic. And you will have an adventure that you'll remember for the rest of your life. We certainly did.
What's next? The famous Incan ruins around Cusco, and of course, Machu Picchu... we'll keep you posted.
October 13, 2018
Oct. 13, 2018 - Stop, Drop, and Roll On
By Marisa 
I often look at the pictures we take and think, “Wow! We really are having the adventure of our dreams!" For us, there is no greater lifestyle than traveling around the world on a motorcycle, and sometimes we stand next to our bike with a jaw-dropping vista in the background on some crazy winding dirt road in the middle of nowhere, and I just couldn't be prouder of how far we've come.
Unfortunately, this is not one of those moments.
Yesterday Tim and I found ourselves hobbling around the Peruvian town of Huaraz, me on crutches, him looking pale and sickly with four cotton-ball bandages on his arms where the nurses stuck him with needles and IV's, and I couldn't help but think that whatever superpowers we may have once thought we had, they're certainly gone now.
Sometimes we look pretty bad-ass on this journey. 
But sometimes we don't. About two weeks ago, things were pretty much perfect for us. We were making our way south from the remote reaches of northern Peru, stopping by every grouping of ruins we could (there are tons in this region) and exploring the towns and gorgeous views of the countryside along the way. 
The hill-top Pre-Incan ruins of Marcahuamachuco, Peru. 
Tim in the ruins of Marcahuamachuco, Peru. We met some incredible friends along the way, both Peruvian and international, got interviewed for a local news channel, and even attended a full-out rap battle that you had to see to believe. 
The Plaza de Armas in Huamachuco, Peru. 
Whoever thought the people of Huamachuco, Peru would be such good rappers? We were on top of the world, both figuratively and literally as we discovered many high-altitude roads through little mud villages perched precariously on the mountainsides. The Andean people we came across were living in ways that appeared unchanged for centuries, and it was a joy seeing how each region had its own style of hats and textiles. 
A beautiful local girl with a lamb near Huamachuco, Peru. We even got our bike decked out to look the part in a local sheep skin from a little woman who desperately wanted us to take one of her puppies as well. I told her we were traveling on a motorcycle and could not bring a puppy with us, but she insisted that they were small enough to fit in our backpacks. Then I explained that we would need to cross borders, and bringing animals was not allowed without the proper paperwork. She said she had a box we could hide the puppies in, and the guards would never know. After a long debate about this, we were able to purchase just the sheepskin and thankfully were not forced to leave with a puppy. 
A wolf in sheep's clothing? Our adventures in Peru were truly taking us to fantastic places. The roads in this country are cliffside, scary, and breathtaking, and are famous for zig-zagging with countless switchbacks. Sometimes you can spend an hour simply going down a narrow valley and then up the other side. But we were loving every second of it. 
One of the many winding roads between Angasmarca and Pallasca, Peru. 
A perfect picnic spot near Pallasca, Peru. And then our luck literally took a turn for the worse. We were making a turn on a dirt road with a concrete patch that was used for water drainage when the back tire slipped out from under us. Normally our falls are slow and you can sense yourself tilting farther and farther over. But this one was quick and sudden, out of nowhere. We skid for a good 10-15 feet along the concrete, and all was good, except that the ground had somehow pushed my right toe so that my foot ended up backwards and under the pannier.
I had to jump off to flip myself in the direction of my foot since I couldn't get it out right away, and from the pain and the angle that my leg had been forced in, I knew something was definitely wrong.
Soaking my foot at the campsite. Our plan had been to camp that night since it was a long way to the next town. So despite my injury, that's what we did. Needless to say, I wasn't much help at putting up the tent, but Tim was quite the gentleman, doing everything for me, and even brought some cold river water for me to soak my foot in, which helped a lot with the swelling.
That night I was in a lot of pain, and I probably wouldn't have gotten any sleep if it wasn't for taking a few pain pills which we always carry with us. But I had no idea whether I broke my foot or not, and knew that we needed to get to a hospital with an x-ray machine as soon as possible to find out.
So the next day we headed to the nearest town of Caraz, passing through gorgeous Cañon del Pato on the way. Once in Caraz, I went straight to the hospital and got an x-ray. The doctor told me there was a broken bone, unfortunately, she did not seem confident in her assessment. To add to the confusion, she kept trying to call the doctor who makes casts and he wouldn't answer, and nobody knew if he was on vacation or when he would ever come back to work.
Me staring at a waterfall in Cañon del Pato, Peru. 
X-Rays of my right foot. 
Tim learned some interesting Spanish vocabulary while my x-rays were being taken. They made a temporary cast for me, and I had suspicions that they made it wrong, so Tim and I made an executive decision that night to go to a different hospital in the next town: Huaraz.
Not even two hours away, and backdropped by white-capped mountains, Huaraz's hospital seemed to be much better equipped than the one in Caraz. And after a new set of x-rays, the doctor in Huaraz confirmed that I did not have a broken bone, and it was just a pulled muscle. Even so, I would need to stay off my foot for at least 10 days. That was a lot better than a month or two in a cast, so I was very thankful for this second opinion, and after we found a comfortable hotel just down the street from the hospital, it seemed that everything was going to be alright.
View of the stunning peaks from our hotel in Huaraz, Peru. We've been here in Huaraz for more than a week now, and I'm happy to say that my foot is on the mend. In fact, we'd planned on leaving yesterday to go check out the gorgeous mountains around here, but then Tim got sick two nights ago.
This was the fourth fever he's had this year, and it was a bad one. Without a wink of sleep, he spent the night mumbling incoherently and complaining of pain wracking his head, stomach, and back. So yesterday we spent the morning at the hospital conveniently down the street from us, and after many tests, we learned that it's not malaria (thank goodness!) but that he could have Typhoid Fever.
Typhoid Fever is actually what happens when you get salmonella. And although it can be quite miserable and severe if untreated, and it can even lead to death, it's also easily treated with a round of antibiotics.
Tim sick in bed. So here we are still, and apparently Huaraz, Peru is our new home. We are luckily very comfortable and have all the amenities we could ever want, but we're definitely not feeling as bad-ass as usual, and our adventuring has been put on hold.
I'm not sure how much longer we'll stay here, surely until we are both fully recovered, but once we feel well-enough, we'll be headed into the mountains where we'll try to gain some of our superpowers back.
I often look at the pictures we take and think, “Wow! We really are having the adventure of our dreams!" For us, there is no greater lifestyle than traveling around the world on a motorcycle, and sometimes we stand next to our bike with a jaw-dropping vista in the background on some crazy winding dirt road in the middle of nowhere, and I just couldn't be prouder of how far we've come.Unfortunately, this is not one of those moments.
Yesterday Tim and I found ourselves hobbling around the Peruvian town of Huaraz, me on crutches, him looking pale and sickly with four cotton-ball bandages on his arms where the nurses stuck him with needles and IV's, and I couldn't help but think that whatever superpowers we may have once thought we had, they're certainly gone now.
Sometimes we look pretty bad-ass on this journey. 
But sometimes we don't. About two weeks ago, things were pretty much perfect for us. We were making our way south from the remote reaches of northern Peru, stopping by every grouping of ruins we could (there are tons in this region) and exploring the towns and gorgeous views of the countryside along the way. 
The hill-top Pre-Incan ruins of Marcahuamachuco, Peru. 
Tim in the ruins of Marcahuamachuco, Peru. We met some incredible friends along the way, both Peruvian and international, got interviewed for a local news channel, and even attended a full-out rap battle that you had to see to believe. 
The Plaza de Armas in Huamachuco, Peru. 
Whoever thought the people of Huamachuco, Peru would be such good rappers? We were on top of the world, both figuratively and literally as we discovered many high-altitude roads through little mud villages perched precariously on the mountainsides. The Andean people we came across were living in ways that appeared unchanged for centuries, and it was a joy seeing how each region had its own style of hats and textiles. 
A beautiful local girl with a lamb near Huamachuco, Peru. We even got our bike decked out to look the part in a local sheep skin from a little woman who desperately wanted us to take one of her puppies as well. I told her we were traveling on a motorcycle and could not bring a puppy with us, but she insisted that they were small enough to fit in our backpacks. Then I explained that we would need to cross borders, and bringing animals was not allowed without the proper paperwork. She said she had a box we could hide the puppies in, and the guards would never know. After a long debate about this, we were able to purchase just the sheepskin and thankfully were not forced to leave with a puppy. 
A wolf in sheep's clothing? Our adventures in Peru were truly taking us to fantastic places. The roads in this country are cliffside, scary, and breathtaking, and are famous for zig-zagging with countless switchbacks. Sometimes you can spend an hour simply going down a narrow valley and then up the other side. But we were loving every second of it. 
One of the many winding roads between Angasmarca and Pallasca, Peru. 
A perfect picnic spot near Pallasca, Peru. And then our luck literally took a turn for the worse. We were making a turn on a dirt road with a concrete patch that was used for water drainage when the back tire slipped out from under us. Normally our falls are slow and you can sense yourself tilting farther and farther over. But this one was quick and sudden, out of nowhere. We skid for a good 10-15 feet along the concrete, and all was good, except that the ground had somehow pushed my right toe so that my foot ended up backwards and under the pannier.I had to jump off to flip myself in the direction of my foot since I couldn't get it out right away, and from the pain and the angle that my leg had been forced in, I knew something was definitely wrong.
Soaking my foot at the campsite. Our plan had been to camp that night since it was a long way to the next town. So despite my injury, that's what we did. Needless to say, I wasn't much help at putting up the tent, but Tim was quite the gentleman, doing everything for me, and even brought some cold river water for me to soak my foot in, which helped a lot with the swelling.That night I was in a lot of pain, and I probably wouldn't have gotten any sleep if it wasn't for taking a few pain pills which we always carry with us. But I had no idea whether I broke my foot or not, and knew that we needed to get to a hospital with an x-ray machine as soon as possible to find out.
So the next day we headed to the nearest town of Caraz, passing through gorgeous Cañon del Pato on the way. Once in Caraz, I went straight to the hospital and got an x-ray. The doctor told me there was a broken bone, unfortunately, she did not seem confident in her assessment. To add to the confusion, she kept trying to call the doctor who makes casts and he wouldn't answer, and nobody knew if he was on vacation or when he would ever come back to work.
Me staring at a waterfall in Cañon del Pato, Peru. 
X-Rays of my right foot. 
Tim learned some interesting Spanish vocabulary while my x-rays were being taken. They made a temporary cast for me, and I had suspicions that they made it wrong, so Tim and I made an executive decision that night to go to a different hospital in the next town: Huaraz.Not even two hours away, and backdropped by white-capped mountains, Huaraz's hospital seemed to be much better equipped than the one in Caraz. And after a new set of x-rays, the doctor in Huaraz confirmed that I did not have a broken bone, and it was just a pulled muscle. Even so, I would need to stay off my foot for at least 10 days. That was a lot better than a month or two in a cast, so I was very thankful for this second opinion, and after we found a comfortable hotel just down the street from the hospital, it seemed that everything was going to be alright.
View of the stunning peaks from our hotel in Huaraz, Peru. We've been here in Huaraz for more than a week now, and I'm happy to say that my foot is on the mend. In fact, we'd planned on leaving yesterday to go check out the gorgeous mountains around here, but then Tim got sick two nights ago.This was the fourth fever he's had this year, and it was a bad one. Without a wink of sleep, he spent the night mumbling incoherently and complaining of pain wracking his head, stomach, and back. So yesterday we spent the morning at the hospital conveniently down the street from us, and after many tests, we learned that it's not malaria (thank goodness!) but that he could have Typhoid Fever.
Typhoid Fever is actually what happens when you get salmonella. And although it can be quite miserable and severe if untreated, and it can even lead to death, it's also easily treated with a round of antibiotics.
Tim sick in bed. So here we are still, and apparently Huaraz, Peru is our new home. We are luckily very comfortable and have all the amenities we could ever want, but we're definitely not feeling as bad-ass as usual, and our adventuring has been put on hold.I'm not sure how much longer we'll stay here, surely until we are both fully recovered, but once we feel well-enough, we'll be headed into the mountains where we'll try to gain some of our superpowers back.
September 26, 2018
Sept. 26, 2018 - The Land of the Dead
By Marisa 
Mummies of the Chachapoya people, Museo de Leymebamba, Peru. Nothing has come easy for us in Peru. From underdeveloped road conditions, to people just shrugging their shoulders when telling us that the road is closed, and then still others simply making things up when we ask for directions because they'd rather say something than nothing, this place has definitely tested our patience.
But alongside Peru's challenges come great rewards, and we firmly believe that despite the obstacles, this country and its incredible people are worth it. And the perfect example of that has been the sites and cultures we've seen here in the north, or as I like to call it, the Land of the Dead, for reasons which I will explain later.
An old bridge near Nuevo Tingo on the Utcubamba River, Peru. Peru may be poorer, more polluted, and has less-developed infrastructure than its neighbors to the north such as Ecuador and Colombia, but there is a reason why people from around the world flock here. There is something deeply special about this country. It's as if Peru is an experience to be felt.
Once crossing the border, we noticed that the music started to have a folkish rhythm to it that sounds more indigenous than latin, and the people have a gorgeously stoic look to them, as many of the Andean locals are finely dressed in alpaca ponchos and wide-brimmed hats.
There is also something majestic, ancient, and mysterious about the mountains and terraced fields of this country, as if every stone were placed there long ago by someone with a particular intention. And sometimes while riding around, I can smell incense burning in the villages, and I will forever associate that smell with the mystic aura of this place.
Near Celendín, Cajamarca, Peru. The cultures here are old, and the Spanish may have left their mark, but it's just a scratch against the monuments and terraforming that the indigenous people have built. And our first experience with this strong indigenous presence was the fortified city of Kuélap.
Most tourists don't come to the north of Peru. But if they do, they don't come without visiting Kuélap since it's considered to be Peru's “second Machu Picchu". Both are mountaintop pre-hispanic ruins, but really, the two cities are unrelated.
A flower peaking out from the ruins of Kuélap, Peru. Built by the Chachapoyas (a.k.a. Cloud Warriors), not the Inca, Kuélap was mostly constructed from 600-1100 A.D., and is architecturally unique as nearly all of its 550 stone structures are circular. The city may have had at one point as many as 300,000 inhabitants, and was well fortified by a 10-20 meter high wall surrounding it (32 to 65 feet), which is absolutely enormous when seen in person. It shocks me that even these walls could not withstand the might of the Inca who conquered it in 1470, though the Inca would fall to the Spanish a mere 60 years later, abandoning the city. 
The outside walls of Kuélap, Peru. 
The beautiful stone designs of Kuélap, Peru. Although some of Kuélap's stonework is intricate, its walls and stone construction cannot compare to the perfect masonry that the Inca mastered. Still, Kuélap is uniquely impressive for several reasons: it has stunning views of the surrounding cloud-forested mountains (it's 1,000 ft. higher than Machu Picchu and much older), some of its structures are massive, such as its walls and Templo Mayor which is shaped like an inverted cone, and best of all, unlike Machu Picchu, almost no one visits Kuélap. If the newly-built cable car goes out, as it did when we went, you may even have the site all to yourself. 
The uniquely inverted conical shape of Templo Mayor, Kuélap, Peru. Kuélap was the first archeological site we visited in Peru, and it was also the first time that Tim and I realized how magical this country is. 
Kuélap, Peru. After Kuélap, we took a detour to an infrequently-visited region where we heard we might get the keys to the “Village of the Dead", or Pueblo de los Muertos. That just sounded too enticing for us to pass up, but as we made our way there, we came to a road block with a construction worker woman holding up a red sign that said PARE, the Spanish equivalent to STOP.
Stopping for construction is normal in Latin America, and as the woman held up a finger to show us to wait a moment, we patiently did so, as it usually only takes a few minutes before we're let through. But as the minutes dragged on, Tim turned to me and said, “Can you go ask that lady how long it will be? I just want to be sure she meant one minute as opposed to one hour."
So I did just that, but after conversing with the woman for quite some time, I came back to tell Tim the bad news. “She said the road is closed until 1:00 pm." It was 9:30.
Peruvian roads are beautiful, though not always the safest. It turns out that construction in Peru runs on normal working hours, so that means all day long (there is a short lunch break between 1:00 and 2:00), seven days a week. And they don't tell you the road is closed until you get there, of course.
So Tim and I got out our camping chairs and made ourselves comfortable just as a busload of sixth graders on a field trip pulled up, also having to wait more than three hours for the workers to go on lunch break. This impromptu delay actually turned into an incredible experience in disguise, because as the children disembarked from their bus, they found that Tim and I were the most interesting thing around, and decided to interview us for three hours. It was the closest I've ever felt to a celebrity. They took hundreds of selfies with us and the bike, and filmed our answers to their questions on their phones. I'm sure their teachers are going to give them a test on our lives once they get back to school.
I'm in there somewhere. Apparently, Tim and I are the only ones who get upset over road closures and things not going our way, as Peruvians seem to have an uncanny ability to just go with the flow. After the road opened up again, we said our goodbyes to the field trippers, and made our way to the Village of the Dead. 
Chachapoya wall carvings in the Pueblo de los Muertos, Lámud, Peru. The rumors were true: because the Pueblo de los Muertos is such a difficult site to get to, no one goes, and so you have to pick up the keys at the tourist office of the nearest village (Lámud) to get in. This also means you have the ruins completely to yourselves.
The Pueblo de los Muertos is made up of several cliffside walled structures built by the Chachapoya people between 1100 and 1350 A.D. It gets its name because it's where mummies and human bones have been found. This is also the reason why there are keys to get in, because looters have ransacked the site over the years, and so gates have been put up to keep people out. Despite the looters, there are still quite a few human remains to be seen there.
A human femur resting in the Pueblo de los Muertos, Lámud, Peru. This “Village of the Dead" was built on a cliff, and when I say built on a cliff, I mean at one point I stopped dead in my tracks and Tim turned back to me and said, “Come on. Aren't you going to see the rest?" I shook my head and sat down where I was, telling myself not to look over the edge for fear of getting vertigo, and then watched Tim climb along the cliff, surely to his imminent death.
Luckily, neither of us fell, and no new bones were added to the village's collection. We camped at the trail head with a gorgeous view of the Gocta Waterfall in the distance and slept under the stars (and rain) trying not to think about the dead people just down the trail from us.
This picture proves that Tim is certainly braver than I. The next day we headed through some difficult roads to find the famous Sarcophagi of Karajía. Like at the Pueblo de los Muertos, the Chachapoya people had a tradition of mummifying the dead, usually in a sitting position, and wrapping them in cloths or placing them in clay urns. This was actually a tradition throughout Peru, including the Inca, and these mummies were sometimes kept in the house so that offerings and food could be given to the ancestors during meals or on special occasions. Other times, the mummies were protected by being buried or stored in a safe place such as on a cliff side. In fact, South Americans were mummifying their dead long before the ancient Egyptians.
And if the person was important, such as those at Karajía, they were placed in an elaborately-painted sarcophagus, some as large as 2.5 meters tall (over 8 feet), and placed on a cliff with an eternal view of the beautiful countryside.
Los Sarcófagos de Karajía, Luya, Peru. 
What the Sarcófagos de Karajía may have once looked like. This is why I will always remember this area of Peru as the Land of the Dead. It seems that at every turn, there are more urns and more mummies. At the museum of Leymebamba, there were over a hundred mummies, some of which had faces sewn onto their cloth wrappings. There were even mummies of babies, dogs, and wild cats. Clearly, remembrance and respect of the dead was very important to these cultures. 
I prefer the sewn-on faces to the real ones. Museo de Leymebamba, Peru. Today we are in Cajamarca, and yesterday we visited a series of mountain-side carvings here that have been used as a mausoleum for mummies and urns for more than 2,000 years. It's known as the Ventanillas de Otuzco.
Tomorrow we will slowly make our way south, out of this archeologically-rich region, and into the high-altitude Andes where we will hopefully come across glaciers. Though we are in no way leaving the Land of the Dead yet, we will be setting our sights on more natural wonders as opposed to cultural ones in the coming weeks. As always, stay tuned, and we'll keep you posted.
The funerary tombs of Ventanillas de Otuzco, Cajamarca, Peru.
Mummies of the Chachapoya people, Museo de Leymebamba, Peru. Nothing has come easy for us in Peru. From underdeveloped road conditions, to people just shrugging their shoulders when telling us that the road is closed, and then still others simply making things up when we ask for directions because they'd rather say something than nothing, this place has definitely tested our patience. But alongside Peru's challenges come great rewards, and we firmly believe that despite the obstacles, this country and its incredible people are worth it. And the perfect example of that has been the sites and cultures we've seen here in the north, or as I like to call it, the Land of the Dead, for reasons which I will explain later.
An old bridge near Nuevo Tingo on the Utcubamba River, Peru. Peru may be poorer, more polluted, and has less-developed infrastructure than its neighbors to the north such as Ecuador and Colombia, but there is a reason why people from around the world flock here. There is something deeply special about this country. It's as if Peru is an experience to be felt.Once crossing the border, we noticed that the music started to have a folkish rhythm to it that sounds more indigenous than latin, and the people have a gorgeously stoic look to them, as many of the Andean locals are finely dressed in alpaca ponchos and wide-brimmed hats.
There is also something majestic, ancient, and mysterious about the mountains and terraced fields of this country, as if every stone were placed there long ago by someone with a particular intention. And sometimes while riding around, I can smell incense burning in the villages, and I will forever associate that smell with the mystic aura of this place.
Near Celendín, Cajamarca, Peru. The cultures here are old, and the Spanish may have left their mark, but it's just a scratch against the monuments and terraforming that the indigenous people have built. And our first experience with this strong indigenous presence was the fortified city of Kuélap.Most tourists don't come to the north of Peru. But if they do, they don't come without visiting Kuélap since it's considered to be Peru's “second Machu Picchu". Both are mountaintop pre-hispanic ruins, but really, the two cities are unrelated.
A flower peaking out from the ruins of Kuélap, Peru. Built by the Chachapoyas (a.k.a. Cloud Warriors), not the Inca, Kuélap was mostly constructed from 600-1100 A.D., and is architecturally unique as nearly all of its 550 stone structures are circular. The city may have had at one point as many as 300,000 inhabitants, and was well fortified by a 10-20 meter high wall surrounding it (32 to 65 feet), which is absolutely enormous when seen in person. It shocks me that even these walls could not withstand the might of the Inca who conquered it in 1470, though the Inca would fall to the Spanish a mere 60 years later, abandoning the city. 
The outside walls of Kuélap, Peru. 
The beautiful stone designs of Kuélap, Peru. Although some of Kuélap's stonework is intricate, its walls and stone construction cannot compare to the perfect masonry that the Inca mastered. Still, Kuélap is uniquely impressive for several reasons: it has stunning views of the surrounding cloud-forested mountains (it's 1,000 ft. higher than Machu Picchu and much older), some of its structures are massive, such as its walls and Templo Mayor which is shaped like an inverted cone, and best of all, unlike Machu Picchu, almost no one visits Kuélap. If the newly-built cable car goes out, as it did when we went, you may even have the site all to yourself. 
The uniquely inverted conical shape of Templo Mayor, Kuélap, Peru. Kuélap was the first archeological site we visited in Peru, and it was also the first time that Tim and I realized how magical this country is. 
Kuélap, Peru. After Kuélap, we took a detour to an infrequently-visited region where we heard we might get the keys to the “Village of the Dead", or Pueblo de los Muertos. That just sounded too enticing for us to pass up, but as we made our way there, we came to a road block with a construction worker woman holding up a red sign that said PARE, the Spanish equivalent to STOP.Stopping for construction is normal in Latin America, and as the woman held up a finger to show us to wait a moment, we patiently did so, as it usually only takes a few minutes before we're let through. But as the minutes dragged on, Tim turned to me and said, “Can you go ask that lady how long it will be? I just want to be sure she meant one minute as opposed to one hour."
So I did just that, but after conversing with the woman for quite some time, I came back to tell Tim the bad news. “She said the road is closed until 1:00 pm." It was 9:30.
Peruvian roads are beautiful, though not always the safest. It turns out that construction in Peru runs on normal working hours, so that means all day long (there is a short lunch break between 1:00 and 2:00), seven days a week. And they don't tell you the road is closed until you get there, of course.So Tim and I got out our camping chairs and made ourselves comfortable just as a busload of sixth graders on a field trip pulled up, also having to wait more than three hours for the workers to go on lunch break. This impromptu delay actually turned into an incredible experience in disguise, because as the children disembarked from their bus, they found that Tim and I were the most interesting thing around, and decided to interview us for three hours. It was the closest I've ever felt to a celebrity. They took hundreds of selfies with us and the bike, and filmed our answers to their questions on their phones. I'm sure their teachers are going to give them a test on our lives once they get back to school.
I'm in there somewhere. Apparently, Tim and I are the only ones who get upset over road closures and things not going our way, as Peruvians seem to have an uncanny ability to just go with the flow. After the road opened up again, we said our goodbyes to the field trippers, and made our way to the Village of the Dead. 
Chachapoya wall carvings in the Pueblo de los Muertos, Lámud, Peru. The rumors were true: because the Pueblo de los Muertos is such a difficult site to get to, no one goes, and so you have to pick up the keys at the tourist office of the nearest village (Lámud) to get in. This also means you have the ruins completely to yourselves.The Pueblo de los Muertos is made up of several cliffside walled structures built by the Chachapoya people between 1100 and 1350 A.D. It gets its name because it's where mummies and human bones have been found. This is also the reason why there are keys to get in, because looters have ransacked the site over the years, and so gates have been put up to keep people out. Despite the looters, there are still quite a few human remains to be seen there.
A human femur resting in the Pueblo de los Muertos, Lámud, Peru. This “Village of the Dead" was built on a cliff, and when I say built on a cliff, I mean at one point I stopped dead in my tracks and Tim turned back to me and said, “Come on. Aren't you going to see the rest?" I shook my head and sat down where I was, telling myself not to look over the edge for fear of getting vertigo, and then watched Tim climb along the cliff, surely to his imminent death.Luckily, neither of us fell, and no new bones were added to the village's collection. We camped at the trail head with a gorgeous view of the Gocta Waterfall in the distance and slept under the stars (and rain) trying not to think about the dead people just down the trail from us.
This picture proves that Tim is certainly braver than I. The next day we headed through some difficult roads to find the famous Sarcophagi of Karajía. Like at the Pueblo de los Muertos, the Chachapoya people had a tradition of mummifying the dead, usually in a sitting position, and wrapping them in cloths or placing them in clay urns. This was actually a tradition throughout Peru, including the Inca, and these mummies were sometimes kept in the house so that offerings and food could be given to the ancestors during meals or on special occasions. Other times, the mummies were protected by being buried or stored in a safe place such as on a cliff side. In fact, South Americans were mummifying their dead long before the ancient Egyptians.And if the person was important, such as those at Karajía, they were placed in an elaborately-painted sarcophagus, some as large as 2.5 meters tall (over 8 feet), and placed on a cliff with an eternal view of the beautiful countryside.
Los Sarcófagos de Karajía, Luya, Peru. 
What the Sarcófagos de Karajía may have once looked like. This is why I will always remember this area of Peru as the Land of the Dead. It seems that at every turn, there are more urns and more mummies. At the museum of Leymebamba, there were over a hundred mummies, some of which had faces sewn onto their cloth wrappings. There were even mummies of babies, dogs, and wild cats. Clearly, remembrance and respect of the dead was very important to these cultures. 
I prefer the sewn-on faces to the real ones. Museo de Leymebamba, Peru. Today we are in Cajamarca, and yesterday we visited a series of mountain-side carvings here that have been used as a mausoleum for mummies and urns for more than 2,000 years. It's known as the Ventanillas de Otuzco.Tomorrow we will slowly make our way south, out of this archeologically-rich region, and into the high-altitude Andes where we will hopefully come across glaciers. Though we are in no way leaving the Land of the Dead yet, we will be setting our sights on more natural wonders as opposed to cultural ones in the coming weeks. As always, stay tuned, and we'll keep you posted.
The funerary tombs of Ventanillas de Otuzco, Cajamarca, Peru.
