Lynda L. Lock's Blog, page 8

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Halifax, Oromocto NB, Quebec City)

August 8th we left Halifax Nova Scotia to begin the two-week drive back to BC. My pal Kyla Damen-Willems has joined Sparky and me for the trip. It's nice to have a human to talk to for a change, and someone to share the driving.

Out with Kyla's friends in Halifax

August 9th: Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America. Yesterday we drove to Oromocto NB, and today to Quebec City QB.

I have been lazy with taking photos ... partly because the weather has been wet and cloudy.

August 10th: Quebec City, Quebec Canada. One of my favourite cities.

Cheers Lynda and The Sparkinator

 

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Halifax NS)

Aug 3 to 6th: Hey there! I haven't written a blog post for a few days and you probably thought that I had fallen off the edge of the earth. Honestly, when I arrived in Halifax, I was worn out, and needed some serious down time. My car has hardly moved since Sparky and I arrived in Halifax on August 1st.

City of Halifax (not my photo)I've poked around the city a bit, visiting a few of the better known attractions, but mainly I've napped. Slept. Napped. And slept some more. 

Now, I'm ready to get back to the adventure. 

My Penticton friend, Kyla Damen-Willems arrives tomorrow. She's joining Sparky and I for the 5600 kilometre (about 3500 miles) drive to BC. It will be great to have another human along because Sparky isn't a good conversationalist. When I talk to him, he just looks at me as if I'm slightly bonkers. 

Halifax Nova Scotia
Cadets at Halifax CitadelFrom the internet: Halifax, an Atlantic Ocean port in eastern Canada, is the provincial capital of Nova Scotia. A major business centre since the 1840s it’s also known for its maritime history.

 The city’s dominated by the hilltop Citadel, a star-shaped fort completed in the 1850s. Waterfront warehouses known as the Historic Properties recall Halifax’s days as a trading hub for privateers, notably during the War of 1812.

Inside the Halifax CitadelOur hotel is near the citadel (the star-shaped fort in the middle of the top photo), and across the street from a beautiful public garden. 
Strangely the public garden does not allow dogs, dog walkers, cyclists, joggers, scooters, or photography of wedding groups. The sign left me wondering who was allowed to venture through the gorgeous wrought iron gates.

The Point Pleasant park has an interesting policy about dogs. They are allowed off-leash until 10:00 a.m., then not allowed at all later in the day. I think that's a great compromise.

On the return trip to Penticton, BC, Kyla and I will share the driving and we expect to arrive back home around the 21st of August.

Cheers, Lynda and The Sparkinator

Point Pleasant Park, Halifax
Point Pleasant Park Halifax

Halifax Nova Scotia

Halifax Nova Scotia

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Titanic victims buried in Halifax NS)

Aug 2nd: "Did you know that many of the victims of the Titanic disaster are buried in Halifax?" the young woman asked.

I shook my head, "I didn't know that. How interesting." And so, Sparky and I drove the short distance from our hotel in downtown Halifax to the Fairview Lawn Cemetery, where the graves for 121 people are arranged in the shape of a ship's hull.  

From a New York Times online article: 

This somber stewardship came about largely by chance: Halifax happened to be the closest major port with good rail connections when the ship sank, 700 nautical miles away in the North Atlantic.

Three ships sent from Halifax to find the Titanic’s dead recovered more than 300 bodies. 

About 100 were buried at sea, but families who could afford the cost had 59 others transported elsewhere by rail. 

The rest were buried locally, some of them attended to by a funeral home that is still in business.

Out of the 2,208 people who boarded the Titanic in Southampton, only 705 survived when the ship sank.

It was an sobering experience to see so many graves with the same date of death: April 15th 1912. 

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Pictou NS)

HMS Hector Heritage QuayAug 1st: Sparky and I were on our way toward Halifax, but of course I can't stay on the boring freeways for too long and detoured off to Pictou. 

Years ago when I was intensely interested in genealogy research I traced the Irish side of my dad's family back to when they arrived in Pictou Nova Scotia back in 1721. 

However, I am wondering if I got the right location, because according to a large historical display in Pictou it was colonized by 200 hundred Scottish Highlanders, arriving on board the HMS Hector on September 15th, 1773. 

That might have to be a wintertime project, recheck the dates and the port of entry for our Lyons ancestors. HMS Hector under restoration

I can't begin to imagine the hardships of crossing the Atlantic Ocean in a ship like the Hector. The hull of the original ship is under restoration and a full-size replica is housed inside the Hector Heritage Quay in Pictou.

Wikipedia: 

HMS Hector's most famous voyage took place in 1773 with a departure date around the second week of July, carrying 189 Highlanders who were immigrating to Nova Scotia. 

Pictou Nova ScotiaThe vessel's owner, Mr. John Pagan, along with Dr. John Witherspoon, purchased three shares of land near Pictou, Nova Scotia. Pagan and Witherspoon hired John Ross as a recruiting agent for settlers willing to emigrate to Pictou with an offer of free passage, 1 year of free provisions, and a farm. 

The settlers (23 families, 25 single men) were recruited at Greenock, Renfrewshire and at Loch Broom, Ross-shire with the majority being from Loch Broom. 

Celebrating the Scottish colonialsThe settlers that boarded Hector were poor, "obscure, illiterate crofters and artisans from Northern Scotland, who spoke Gaelic." The school teacher, William McKenzie was one of the few passengers on the Hector to speak both Gaelic and English.

Hector was an old ship and in poor condition when it left Europe. The arduous voyage to Pictou took 11 weeks, with a gale off Newfoundland causing a 14-day delay. Dysentery and smallpox claimed 18 lives amongst the passengers. The vessel arrived in Pictou Harbour on September 15, landing at Brown's Point, immediately west of the present-day town of Pictou.

Definitely not a journey for the faint of heart!

~

Sparky and I will be exploring the fascinating city of Halifax Nova Scotia for the next few days.

Cheers Lynda and The Sparkinator

Pictou Nova Scotia - love the colourful chairs

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Port Hood & Tatamagouche NS)

Port Hood Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia July 31st: Sparky and I have spent the last two days slowly poking our way west-ish, from North Sydney, to Port Hood and Mabou on the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton and today Tatamagouche in Nova Scotia.
Located on Cape Breton Island, Port Hood is well known for their five sandy beaches, which makes their marketing plan simple:
       Eat. Beach. Sleep. Repeat. 

Port Hood - 1 of 5 beautiful beaches
Bistro in Port Hood. Waiting for our takeout order






~

Rankin Sisters pubIn the nearby hamlet of Mabou, The Red Shoe Pub has become a kind of “home away from home” for many locals and visitors over the years. The Rankin Sisters’ cozy spot offers a menu of Nova Scotia home cooking. "The Shoe" serves food and drinks and great live music, seven days a week. It is open seasonally from the last Friday in May to mid-October."

Born in Mabou, the Rankins come from a family of 12 siblings, all of whom would entertain the neighbours musically every third weekend as part of a cèilidh. (A social gathering for singing, dancing and telling stories.)  
Rankin Sister's - The Red ShoeThe first Rankin Family band formed in the 1970s when siblings Geraldine, Genevieve, David, John Morris, and Raylene Rankin began performing at local weddings and dances in Cape Breton. As the older siblings went away to college and university, the younger siblings Jimmy, Cookie and Heather took their places.
Heather, Cookie & Raylene Rankin along with their eldest sister Genevieve Fakoory, purchased the Red Shoe Pub in 2004 and opened its doors in 2005. 

Mabou Nova Scotia 











~
Tatamagouche Nova Scotia, is situated on the Northumberland Strait north of Truro and west of Pictou at the mouths of the French and Waugh Rivers.
Tatamagouche derives its name from the native Mi'kmaq term Takǔmegoochk Tatamagouche Nova Scotia, translated as "Meeting of the waters".

Tourist train in Tatamagouche NS





















Tatamagouche Nova Scotia

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (sad to leave Newfoundland, The Rock)

Our last night on The RockJuly 29th: I know, I've skipped a few days! 

I haven't done a whole lot besides sleep, and drive since July 27th. For some reason my energy level has bottomed out and I am taking it easy until I feel perkier. Sparky, on the other hand, is bored silly with my lack of enthusiasm for his exploratory walks.

I have now driven over 18,000 kilometers since leaving Penticton on May 1st. The odometer clicked over just as we were coming into Pasenda Newfoundland, where we stopped in for a cup of tea and a sandwich with Bernadine and Stewart Cochrane. They are new friends with an Isla Mujeres Mexico connection.

Fishing at Bishop's Falls NL

Today, we caught the noon ferry from Port Aux Basques, and sailed away to more adventures back on the mainland of Canada. 

I really enjoyed the 4 weeks that The Sparkinator and I roamed around Newfoundland. It was everything I thought it would be, and more. Some of my best memories were meeting the locals, chatty, friendly, helpful and always smiling. I occasionally struggled to understand what they were saying and I'm sure some of the folks couldn't understand me either. Everyone, young and old, of any gender, have called me honey, my love, sweetie, darling, and my darling. It's startling at first and then it becomes charmingly normal.

One gentleman in Corner Brook chatted with me for a good five minutes, nicely telling me why I shouldn't drive the wrong way on a one-way street. He sent me on my way with a smile and 'you have a good day now.' spoken rapidly in his Newfie dialect. To be fair, it was only the entrance to the Greenway Hotel, and I thought I could get away with a quick zip into the parking lot, instead of driving around the block. He politely disagreed with my decision!

Codroy Provincial Park NLThis is a vast province, much larger than I ever imagined, and I didn't even attempt to explore the larger mainland section of Labrador. (The full name of the province is Newfoundland and Labrador). Sparky and I roamed several of the indented peninsula's exploring tiny hamlets, villages, and towns. We covered just over 5000 kilometers on Newfoundland and I don't think I covered even half of the area. 

It has stunning scenery everywhere you go, but as you have probably gathered by my photos I am in love with the ocean, boats, and colourful buildings. The mountain ranges, massive forests, tumbling brooks, and numerous lakes are beautiful too, they just don't catch my eye the way the coastline does.

A man walking his cat, Port Harmon

So, I'll leave this with a few of my favourite photos of Newfoundland. (I have several hundred photos but they won't all fit in this blog!)

I hope many of you have plans to explore this beautiful, and still wild, part of the world.

Cheers Lynda and The Sparkinator

Icebergs at Twillingate NL

Jelly Bean Row St. John's (covers many streets)
Puffins at Cape Bonavista NL










Colourful boats, Winterton NL

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (charming Champney's West & Trinity NL)

July 25th: Driving south on Highway #230 in the direction of the Trans Canada Highway, on our way to Gander NL, I spotted a sign for Trinity. I'd heard it is a colourful and charming village, so I turned left towards Trinity. 
Champney's West Except I turned too soon, and ended up meandering along a narrow road toward  Champney's West. This village wasn't on my radar, but I'm glad that I continued to the end of the road.
Champney's West is a beautiful community, located in the group known as Trinity Bight. I checked the population figures and got various results of 75 to 432.
Apparently no one really knows! Perhaps they are including the ghosts of past residents. 
I also had to look up the word "bight." It's a long, gradual bend or recess in the shoreline that forms a large, open bay. 
Road leading to Champney's West.
Eventually I found the correct road to Trinity, in Trinity Bay. The road branched off of the same road that Sparky and I had explored a few days ago when we were on our way to our cottage at Little Catalina. We were too early to check-in, so I diverted to Highway #239, and drove to the end at Old Bonaventura. On the way back I stopped for fish and chips at the Lucky Spike food truck, and then continued on to Little Catalina. I completely missed Trinity that day!
Old Bonaventura (New Bonaventura is nearby) 
At the Lucky Spike food truck
Great fish and chips freshly made
Trinity, Trinity Bay NL


When I eventually found Trinity, in Trinity Bay - I was thrilled! 
It is set in a gorgeous bay, the historic buildings are beautifully restored, and and new ones have been designed to blend with the existing ambiance. 
One company seems to be the major landlord for many of the buildings, Artisan Inn offers rooms, suites, and private vacation homes scattered throughout the community. They also own and operate the Twine Loft Restaurant, offering "a waterside culinary experience."
Heading out to look for whalesThe area is also well-known for  hiking, sea kayaking, whale, bird and iceberg watching, fine dining, theatre, museums, and shopping. 
If I am ever back this way, I would definitely stay in Trinity.
Cheers Lynda and The Sparkinator

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Puffins at Bonavista Newfoundland)

The farthest island is the nesting siteJuly 23rd: At around ten in the morning the fog lifted and we started out on a quest to photograph the cute and comical provincial bird of Newfoundland - the Atlantic Puffin. 

Nearby Elliston is listed as the best place to get close enough for photographs, so that's where I was headed. 

Except, they don't allow dogs! Even though the seabird sanctuary is a separate island, adjacent to the community of Elliston, dog are not allowed anywhere near the site. 

Elliston, gift store specializing in puffin items

Disappointed, I returned to the car. I had intended to drop Sparky back at our cottage in nearby Little Catalina, but instead turned towards Bonavista. I could always come back the next day on my own. 

Elliston also Root Cellar Capital of WorldSo, a bit of history about Bonavista from Wikipedia. It is believed to have been settled 5000 years before by the ancestors of the Beothuk indigenous group. 

The first recorded European contact was John Cabot (Giovanni Caboto), a freelance Italian explorer, contracted by England's Henry VII to find new lands, and a sea route to the Orient. Cabot set sail from Bristol, England in his ship the Matthew in 1497. 

When Cabot first saw land he reputedly said "O Buon Vista" ("Oh, Happy Sight!") giving rise to the name of the town and nearby Cape Bonavista. 

Functioning lighthouse at Bonavista NL

Bonavista became one of the most important towns in Newfoundland due to its proximity to the rich fishing and sealing grounds. The Spanish, Portuguese, Dutch, French and English fished off Cape Bonavista during the 16th century, but the Spanish and Portuguese presence soon declined, leaving the French and English as the dominant powers. 

Bonavista NewfoundlandAs a result of European encroachment, slaughter, and diseases to which they had no natural resistance, the Beothuk's numbers diminished rapidly following contact. Some internet sources say the Beothuk have been completely wiped out, others note a few remaining people who identify as descendants of the Beothuk. Either way the culture has been decimated.

Now, the main industry is tourism. Last year Bonavista hosted nearly a hundred thousand tourists enjoying a glimpse of the puffins, the wild scenery, whales, icebergs, and the quaint villages of the Bonavista Peninsula.

Thousands of puffins - I needed a better lens

Cape Bonavista still has a fully operational lighthouse and the original seal oil fueled light apparatus that was used in the 1800s can be seen.

At the base of the lighthouse I had a great view of the Cape Bonavista puffin colony, and I was able to take a snap a few photos. Not great photos because of the distance, but a reminder of my first sighting of the industrious and charming puffins. If you are headed to Newfoundland, and interested in the puffins - buy a decent camera and a good telephoto lens! I wish I had upgraded.

Atlantic Puffins! So cute.

Cheers Lynda and Sir Fuzz-butt

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Screeching in at Sunnyside B&B Newfoundland)

Master of Ceremonies Danny“Do you want to become a Newfoundlander?” Danny a native-bornNewfoundlander asked the initiates, Judy and John, who are also guests at theSunnyside B&B owned and operated by Danny and his wife Sarah.

The "screech-in" is a ceremony performed on non-Newfoundlanders (known to Newfoundlanders as a "come from away" or "mainlander")

Wearing the traditional Sou'Wester

With a bit of prompting, reminiscent to a minister reciting weddingvows to a bride and groom, John and Judy, gave the proper response, “Yes b’y!”

 

Next Danny handed them the traditional sou’wester rain gear. Once theywere properly dressed, he then asked, “Is ye a Screecher?”

 

Thenexaggerating the typical Newfie lingo and speaking rapidly he prompted them toreply with, “Deed I is, me ol’ cock, and long may your big jib draw!” (Thattranslates to, “Indeed, I am, my old friend, and may there always be wind inyour sails!”)

Eating Newfie steak - bolognaEatinga piece of ‘Newfie steak,” a bit of cold bologna was the next part of theceremony. John popped his piece in his mouth and swallowed, but Judy’s responsewas a variety of hilarious faces. She got it down, but not easily.

Amore recent variation is the participants being required to kiss the rear endof a rubber Puffin. Either way everyone was laughing by this stage of theceremony.

John, Kissing the Cod

Thencame the kissing of a cod and more funny faces. 

There were also a number ofhilariously funny and rapidly spoken Newfie verses that John and Judy had tostumble through, but I haven’t been able to find the correct lines anywhere onthe internet.

Judy, Kissing the Cod

Andfinally, John and Judy were instructed to stand in a container of Newfoundlandsea-water, recite the verse below and toss back a shot of Screech, (rum).

Fromthe waters of the Avalon, to the shores of Labrador,

We’ve always stuck together, with a rant anda roar.

To those who’ve never been, soon they’llunderstand,

From coast to coast, we raise a toast, welove thee Newfoundland!

The toast, and shot of Screech!

Wheredid the name Screech come from? Legend has it that Demerara Rum, from the WestIndies, was very popular in Newfoundland. It was brought in, bottled, and soldin an unlabeled bottle (everyone knew what it was). During World War II, theAmericans set up bases in Newfoundland. One night, a serviceman was outdrinking with some locals. Eager to try the traditional drink of the province,he took a shot of the unnamed rum. When he was able to breathe again, the servicemanlet loose a loud noise that was later described as some sort of horrible"screech". The name stuck.

Judy, Danny, John 

MostNewfies are no longer cod fishermen, but they enjoy letting visitors in ontheir sense of humor, their history, and their hooch. I love this place!

~

The Sunnyside B&B is an over-the-top-full-service B&B, that has RV parking and a made-in-Newfoundland gift store. With advance notice Sarah will also prepare evening meals for guests. Danny does fishing tours and the famous Screechin' In ceremony. I highly recommend staying here if you are planning to travel to Newfoundland. 

https://sunnysideoflifebandbrvandtea.com/

https://trucesoundadventures.com/

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Burin then on to Arnold's Cove NL)

July 20th: Sparky and I started to explore the Burin Peninsula from Grand Bank to St. Lawrence in Newfoundland. After driving through 35 kilometers of thick fog, we hit a long stretch of road construction and gravel roads so I turned the car around. My Mazda doesn't need to be beaten up any more than absolutely necessary.

Road #221 Burin area of Newfoundland July 21st: I poked along through various communities from Marystown, to Lewin's Cove, Back Cove, Burin, Port au Bras, and Beau Bois taking photos and exploring. I didn't want to arrive too early at our next place in Arnold's Cove. (More photos below!)

Ha! It turns out the joke was on me. 

After 80 days of traveling, this was the first f**k up with a reservation.

I had booked one night at a cottage in Arnold's Cove Newfoundland, only to discover the owner had changed from nightly rentals to monthly rentals. Her cottage and every bedroom in the main house were jammed with long-term renters.

When I called her Ontario cell phone, she said she had canceled my reservation months ago. I then told her that Booking.com had processed the payment on July 18th for my reservation so as far as I knew, I had a valid reservation. It's the only disadvantage of staying in tiny rural communities. They rarely have more than one or two options for accommodations. My worst nightmare was about to come true - sleeping in my car!

Driving through Arnold's Cove in search of another option I happened upon Andrew, the owner/operator of Killick In the Cove https://thekillickinthecove.com/. His property was full, but he put me in touch with Sarah at The Sunnyside of Life in the nearby community of Sunnyside, a short drive from Arnold's Cove. https://sunnysideoflifebandbrvandtea.com/

Sunnyside B&B in Sunnyside NL

Thankfully, Sarah and Dennis had a room. And they were fine with Sparky staying. And Sarah was going to cook dinner for her B&B guests. OMG, she's an angel.

My next blog is about two of their guests getting 'screeched in.' It was hilarious!

Cheers Lynda and The Sparkinator

Memorial at Lewin's Cove for lost fishermen

Bunkies for rent a Burin Eco-tours

Cafe at the end of the road - we were too early

Burin: islands, coves, bays, fjords

Beau Bois, rowboat at anchor

Shells on the beach at Beau Bois NL