Lynda L. Lock's Blog, page 11

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Baddeck & St. Anne's Cape Breton)

June 27th: This was not a fun day. The eastern shore of Nova Scotia was still wrapped in an unrelenting fog plus I was feeling the effects of two sleepless nights, back to back. 

I stopped every hour for a break. Pee breaks for Sparky. And boredom breaks for me. Driving for seven hours in fog and rain is tiring and boring. There is nothing to see except the road ahead. My eyes flicked continuously left, right, forward, and then to the rearview mirror, looking for other vehicles, people, and animals.

We arrived around 3:00 in the afternoon at St. Anne's Motel about 30 kilometers from Baddeck on Cape Breton Island. The weather was still dismal. My room was dismal. And my mood .... equally dismal.

Raining at Historic Village Sherbrooke NS
Downtown Antigonish Nova Scotia















Downtown Antigonish Nova Scotia
Downtown Antigonish Nova Scotia

Downtown Antigonish Nova Scotia
Downtown Antigonish Nova Scotia

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Peggy's Cove & Port Dufferin NS)

June 26th: The fog is still pea-soup thick, hiding the warm sunshine. It's been a few days since I have worn anything less than jeans, two T-shirts, and a rain jacket. My Okanagan friends are basking in hot summer temperatures, and enjoying this year's crop of delicious cherries. I miss that, but I am also enjoying this adventure, exploring new places and rediscovering old favourites.

We headed off early, as usual. Even though my night was restless and wakeful I just can't sleep past dawn. The goal for the day is the Marmalade Motel in Port Dufferin, on the east shore of Nova Scotia, a distance of 366 km. 

As we neared Halifax, I veered off to visit the hugely popular, and weirdly iconic Peggy's Cove. This was my 3rd visit in 44 years. There are only about 40 people that live in Peggy's Cove, but around 700,000 visitors annually arrive to snap a photo and rush on to the next 'must see' site. 

My photo. There are much better ones on the internet
From the other side of the bay

Founded in 1811, on St. Margaret's Bay, Peggy's Cove is famed for its picturesque and typically East-Coast profile, with houses perched along a narrow inlet and on wave-washed boulders facing the Atlantic. Although this unique environment has been designated a preservation area, it is still an active fishing community. (Nova Scotia webpage.)

Internet pic of Peggy's Cove

By three in the afternoon, I was standing outside the Marmalade Motel in Port Dufferin, wondering what to do. The door code had supposedly been sent via email that morning but my phone wasn't cooperating. I couldn't access my emails or send a text. 

So many small and medium-sized properties have gone to a contactless check-in that requires the guest to use their phone. I get it. Many are short-staffed, and everyone is trying to reduce their operating costs. I can usually figure things out, but I was tired and my brain was in neutral. I finally tapped on another door and asked the occupants if they knew of another way to reach the owners. It turns out the owners lived nearby, and I was able to knock on their door for assistance. 

Much later in the evening, I discovered that I had put a limit on my data usage, and the phone had shut down. Okay, got that fixed. 

The Marmalade Motel was cute, comfy, and super quiet, but once again my brain was in busy mode for most of the night. I truly hate insomnia!

Cheers Lynda and Sir Fuzz-butt

View from my room 
View from my room - Marmalade Motel















Church near Marmalade Motel

Bed and wall decor at motel

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Ingomar & Cape Sable Island NS)

June 25th: Overnight, the fog rolled in again, making visibility and photographs difficult. We only roamed as far as Cape Sable Island, a bit to the south and west of our oceanfront cottage at Ingomar. The rest of the day was spent lounging and reading, resting up for a long drive on the 26th.

Cape Sable Island, Nova Scotia  Cape Sable Island, this made me smile















Cape Sable Island NS

Sparky, happy dog running on the beach

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Ingomar & Shelburne Nova Scotia)

June 24th: On our first full day staying at Whispering Waves Cottages, Ingomar Nova Scotia, Sparky discovered the sandy beach. He stuck his nose deep into the sand and inhaled the briny scent of the residents hiding below. And then his tail started wagging. I swear he was remembering hunting the little white ghost crabs that inhabited the beach in front of our house on Isla Mujeres, Mexico. 

Happy dog investigating the smells
After breakfast I decided to investigate the area a bit. We drove a short distance to Roseway Beach, where the Fuzz-butt was in heaven, sniffing and exploring the long white sandy beach. 

Our home for the next three days

Roseway Beach Nova ScotiaThis area was hard hit by the recent, devastating forest fires. The destruction is clearly visible on both sides of the road. Evacuation orders have now been lifted and residents whose houses escaped the blaze are back in their homes. 
I believe around 60 homes, and 150 other sturctures were destroyed in the conflagration.

The ferns are already sprouting in the fire zone


Our next stop, yesterday, was the historic waterfront of Shelburne. It's a fascinating glimpse of Canada's early days. The Mik'maq traversed the Roseway River and used the surrounding lands for summer encampments long before this area was visited by Spanish, Portuguese and French fishermen.

Historic dockfront ShelburneThen in the spring of 1783, 5,000 settlers arrived on the shores of Shelburne Harbour from New York and the nearby colonies of America. Promises of living under the British flag, and free land, tools, and provisions lured many from the newly formed American colonies to the British colonies in Canada.

In the fall of 1783, the second wave of settlers arrived in Shelburne. By 1784, the population of this new community is estimated to have been at least 10,000; the fourth largest in North America, much larger than either Halifax or Montreal.

In 1787, the government distribution of provisions was terminated. Within a few years, houses were put up for sale, and settlers left for England, New Brunswick, Upper Canada, and the United States. In the 1820s, the population of Shelburne had dwindled to about 300. There are about 2000 residents now. 

On the waterfront in Shelburne, this group was conducting a first lesson for new sailors. How to right, and get back in a capsized boat. The blonde woman in the boat was the student, the tall brunette standing in the boat, and the guy in the water were the instructors. The student managed to get the boat upright, and scramble back inside, all while keeping up a running monologue of hilarious comments.

Cheers, Lynda and Sir Fuzz-butt

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Mahone Bay and Lunenberg Nova Scotia)

June 23rd: Sparky and I were on the road by 8:00 a.m., headed for the south shore of Nova Scotia. Miss Google said the driving time was less than three hours, but I know from experience that the actual time it will take Sparky and me is nearly always double due to photo stops, pee breaks, and just poking around.

The first stop was beautiful Mahone Bay, between Halifax and Lunenburg. I have been to Mahone Bay twice before; once in 1979 with my first husband, and again in 1986 with Lawrie. 

In 1979, when I traveled across Canada with my first husband, we were near the end of our nine-year marriage and were tolerating each other in the silent way that some couples do when the marriage has lost its spark. We separated a few months later. I didn't keep any photographs and have very few clear memories of that two-month trip.

In 1986, when I traveled to the Maritime provinces with Lawrie, we had been together six years and were crazy in love. Much of our thirty-eight years together was spent laughing, hugging, dancing, and smooching. Sightseeing was a secondary activity. On that trip, we took a lot of photographs of each other, but not many of the places we visited. 

Lawrie was teasing me about something. Nova Scotia '86
Mahone Bay is where the pretty pewter sea shells that I purchased in Wolfville were created. I very carefully drove right past their cute waterfront shop. It's best to keep temptation away! This is the link to their store in Mahone Bay: https://amospewter.com/ Mahone Bay Nova Scotia - 5 church spires

Mahone Bay Nova Scotia
Mahone Bay Nova Scotia













Mahone Bay Nova Scotia
Around lunchtime, Sparky and I arrived in Lunenberg. A former rum-running and shipbuilding port Lunenberg has a collection of brightly painted buildings, many of which were built in the 1750s. 
The funniest memory I have of this area is from our trip in 1986. Lawrie and I stayed overnight at a historic inn and at some point during the day, we ran into a group of local firefighters. They were delighted to hear that both Lawrie and I were volunteer firefighters on Bowen Island. (Lawrie was the Fire Chief, and I was one of 22 firefighters.) They invited us back to the fire hall for drinks. As the night wore on the local accents became harder to understand, but the laughter was contagious. We frequently reminisced about that evening. How welcoming and kind everyone was, even though most of the time we had no idea about what was being said.
Lunenberg is also the home of the original Bluenose, a Grand Banks fishing and racing schooner launched on 26 March 1921. The Bluenose is pictured on the reverse side of a Canadian dime. On Bluenose's 100th anniversary in 2021, the Royal Canadian Mint redesigned the dime and added colour (blue ocean) to Canada's smallest circulating coin.
The Fuzz-butt and I had lunch on the dog-friendly patio at the Fish Shack, then walked around for 30 minutes resuming our journey to the Whispering Waves Cottages at Ingomar, near Shelburne.
Cheers Lynda and Sir Fuzz-Butt
Stately old homes Lunenberg Nova Scotia


In the harbour Lunenberg Nova Scotia
 



 







Lunenberg Nova Scotia


Lunenberg Nova Scotia












Lunenberg Nova Scotia

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Wolfville & Scot's Cove Nova Scotia)

June 22nd: We usually travel from one community to another, so when we are stationary for a few days I try to take it easy and do more walking than driving. However, my co-pilot had a different plan. He kept bugging me to go exploring. I think I have created a travel monster! He loves going for car rides, anywhere! I checked my map and found Scot's Bay and Cape Split, just a short distance from Wolfville. Okay, that's the plan then.

The drive took only about an hour, enough to satisfy my travel buddy. There is a park at the end of the road and a hike to Cape Split, but I nixed that. The temperature was rising and Sparky doesn't do well with long hikes. He was born with a heart defect, and his vets, past and present, all say to not push him into long hot walks. His pet stroller takes up half of my trunk space, but pushing it through a rustic pathway didn't appeal to me, so we headed back to our condo unit in Wolfville.

Later in the evening, just a few short steps from my condo unit, there were several musicians providing a free concert of Maritime songs. They planned until sunset. It was a pleasant way to end our three-day stay in Wolfville, Nova Scotia.

Chairs overlooking Scot's Bay Nova Scotia
Remains of the wharf at Scot's Bay 

Overlooking Scot's Bay Nova Scotia


Bought myself pewter shells made in Nova Scotia

Herbin's Jewelry Store













Old-timey theatre, Wolfville NS

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Wolfville Nova Scotia)

 June 21st - Summer Solstice! 

The sun is shining, and the weather is perfect! What a great start to summer.

Our unit is in the middle near the stairwayYesterday, when I checked into the Micro Boutique Living condo-hotel in Wolfville, I had a few concerns about the noise level in the building, mostly the noise from the suite above ours. By five in the afternoon, the racket had dropped to a reasonable level, plus I had managed a two-hour nap which helped calm the headache that plagued me yesterday. Despite my misgivings, I had a great sleep and felt almost human the next morning. 

I spent the day taking it easy, walking Sparky and exploring our cute neighbourhood. And yes, I could live in Wolfville! It is another charming university town, similar to the one in Berea Kentucky, which I visited in May. 

"Founded in 1838, Acadia University is one of the oldest and most respected liberal arts universities in Canada. Acadia is an integral part of the quintessential college town of Wolfville, Nova Scotia, and overlooks the Annapolis Valley and the Bay of Fundy."

Main Street Wolfville 












Main Street Wolfville Sunrise of Summer Soltice

The Church Brewing Company

Celebrating Summer Solstice

Sparky and I celebrated the beginning of summer by going to church yesterday for a late lunch; at The Church Brewing Company, across the street from our condo-hotel. 

And yes, I bought the glass. I rarely buy souvenir 'stuff' but I enjoyed the experience and wanted something to remind me of the day. The arrival of summer was something that Lawrie and I enjoyed celebrating, so besides remembering Wolfville, and The Church Brewing Company, I am also remembering my honey, whom I miss every single day.

The Sparkinator and I have one more day in Wolfville, then we head to Ingonish on the south shore of Nova Scotia.

Cheers, Lynda and The Fuzz-butt

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Annapolis Royal Nova Scotia)

June 20th: A clean-up and moving day. Before leaving Digby Nova Scotia, Sparky and I had a bit of a cleanup. The first stop was the laundromat, just a block from our motel. Then a quick stop at a self-serve car wash while my clothes were in the washing machine. Back to the laundromat to move the washing into the dryer, and then a dash to the Pet Valu to give the Fuzz-butt his bi-weekly bath. Fortunately for me, Sparky loves getting bathed. He climbs into the tub as soon as I take his leash off, and snuggles up to the sprayer when I turn it on. He's a weird little dog!

Fort Anne Annapolis Royal, Nova Scotia

Then we headed north taking the secondary roads towards the pretty community of Annapolis Royal. It's another charming Maritime community that as soon as I saw it, I said to Sparky, "I could live here!"

Here's a bit of history about Annapolis Royal copied from the internet: "French colonists first began to cultivate Annapolis Royal Historic District, then known as Port-Royal, in 1605, but in 1613 the colony was seized by the British. In 1632, Acadia was restored to France by treaty after which the site was fortified and became the principal settlement of Acadian colonists. In 1643, a four-bastioned earthwork was constructed at Fort Anne, and by 1650 the beginnings of a town site existed. St. George Street, a main road of the district, was well developed by 1686. Acadia was ceded to Britain in 1713, and Port Royal was renamed Annapolis Royal. It served as the centre of military and administrative operations for the new British colony of Nova Scotia until 1749 when Halifax became the provincial capital. By virtue of its waterfront location, Annapolis Royal was well-established in shipbuilding, brick manufacturing, and lumber milling, which expanded and diversified the local economy."

By the time I had driven to Kentville, I had a raging headache and decided to take the faster road to Wolfville. About 14 kilometers! As I said, I had a raging headache and didn't realize that we were that close to our destination.

I used our secret door code to get into our studio suite at the Micro Boutique Living, on Main Street. It's a quite new, tiny one-bed unit, that works just fine for the Fuzz-butt and me. We are close to a park with walking pathways, several restaurants, and a cool craft brewery across the street, The Church Brewing Company. 

German bakery Annapolis Royal
Dog-friendly Annapolis Royal NS

At Annapolis Royal
Red Onion Annapolis Royal

George Street Annapolis Royal

I still have a headache, but it's not quite as bad as yesterday. Hopefully, I will be able to shake it off with more sleep, and eating better. Too many scallops and fries in the last three days!

Cheers, 

Lynda and Sir Fuzz-butt  (aka The Sparkinator)

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (hanging out in the Digby NS area)

June 19th: I check my computer every single day to see what the actual date is... I lost track a few weeks ago. And today is Monday? Right?

We have one more night at the Seawinds Motel and Cabins on the waterfront of Digby, Nova Scotia before turning back towards Wolfville. When I tweaked my reservations because of the enormous wildfire in the Shelburne area, I ended up backtracking for a bit before we continue on to the south shore later in the week.

And then my travel partner made this face when I was catching up on emails this morning.

Bored. Bored. Bored. Soooo bored.Shortly after his eleventeenth massive sigh, I gave in, "Do you want to go on an adventure?" I asked him.
Judging by his happy dance and perky ears, "Yes!" was the answer.  
I pulled out my old-school paper map (Rob Goth you'd appreciate that) and checked for nearby communities. The long spit of land, or Digby Neck, looked interesting. We gave Miss Google the day off and headed out in a south-westerly direction and found the road leading to the Digby Neck. It is a long narrow peninsula running parallel to the southwest shore of mainland Nova Scotia. It measures roughly 40 km long and 5 km wide. With Saint Mary's Bay on one side and the Bay of Fundy on the other, Digby Neck is nearly surrounded by water. 
At the Petite Passage, between East Ferry and Tiverton, a free ferry between the two communities allows travelers to continue on to the second ferry running between Freeport and Westport. The total distance from Digby to Brier Island is about 70 kilometers. I stopped our journey at East Ferry. My travel partner isn't thrilled with ferries after his ordeal traveling to and from Grand Manan a few days ago. He was stressed by the loud and incessant fog horn.
We arrived at the East Ferry crossing close to lunchtime. While I watched the car ferry loading, I ordered scallops on a roll from Robyn and Barb at the Petite Passage Cafe and Whale Tours. The scallops were fresh and yummy! The ladies were welcoming and friendly. 

Then Sparky and I turned back heading north towards Digby. Small communities with names like Gullivers Cove, Sandy Cove, and Mink Cove dot the shorelines. In every cove, there are historic homes, a dozen fishing boats tied up to sturdy wharves, usually a church or two, and sometimes a restaurant.
It's a pretty area. I'm happy my travel partner was bored, so bored, this morning.
Cheers Lynda and The Sparkinator 
Lake Midland












The downside of a fishing industry
Sandy Cove, Digby Neck, Nova Scotia












Little River, Digby Neck, Nova Scotia
Quite a few homes in this location at Little River

Free ferry, Petite Passage, Digby Neck NS

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Maitland to Digby Nova Scotia)

June 18th: As is typical of my road trips I stuck to the secondary roads, which meant that the normal 237-kilometer drive from Maitland (about 150 miles) took Sparky and me over six hours to explore. 

We visited several lighthouses, and a number of small hamlets, and then I asked Miss Google to find me a grocery store near Digby NS. She happily routed us along a windy adventure to the sweet little hamlet of Bear River. (Another delightful place that I could live if it weren't for the cold winters.) 

Miss Google's route took us to a basic and not-well-stocked corner store. I decided to buy eggs, cheese, and bread because I had no idea what Digby had to offer. As it turns out, when we were on our way to our seaside accommodation we passed both the Atlantic Superstore and Sotheby's. Miss Google was having a laugh at me!

Our waterfront efficiency cabin at Seawinds Motel and Cottages is cute and comfortable and only a five-minute walk to the wharfside restaurants with a view of the fishing fleet. When we arrived yesterday, Father's Day, the majority of the boats were docked but this morning the boats were out again by 6:00 a.m. Digby has a sign in the town square 'The Scallops Capital of the World'. Have a look at the CBC video link below. 

Digby Sea Scallops

Today's sole task is to find a delicious Digby Sea Scallops dinner. After all, we are in the Scallops Capital of the World.

Cheers

Lynda and The Sparkinator 

Oldest continuously operated general store, Maitland
The lighthouse park at Burncoat Head Nova Scotia














A person standing on left near the cliffs, Burnthead
Lighthouse at Walton Nova Scotia

Great bakery somewhere on the side roads
Bear River Nova Scotia - a tidal village

Bear River Nova Scotia - a tidal village
Bear River Nova Scotia - a tidal village

Seawinds Motel Digby Nova Scotia

Digby Nova Scotia

Father's Day, the fleet is docked at Digby NS