Roger Raffee's Blog - Posts Tagged "wave-riding-in-puerto"
Catching a morning wave in Puerto
Morning in Puerto. Pinpoints of sun coming through the clouds parked low over the inland hills. Dropping down the steps to the sea. Turquoise big blue waves rolling in. Offshore white wind plumes spraying the skies. I say hello to Julio before I paddle out. Two happy souls, where we're headed.
A big wave with a steep curving ridge take off ramp on the top of it. A boy hoots. I go. The instant the wave has me, I'm up. At the top, a big gust hits me. Blasts me to a stop, holds me there. Instead of down, I'm elevating upward. The last possible instant before getting tossed from the pinnacle of heaving liquid muscle, I begin to drop straight down from out of the sky. Relax, don't move. A smooth landing, accelerating forward speed momentum out in front of this beautiful throwing mass of ocean. Shadows throw far out over my humbling head.
I bring it out, and under, and climb. Drop and climb again. Moving forward down the line. Released and roll to a stop, far away in the deep dark channel. I turn and paddle it back out, for another.
Morning in Puerto, just getting started. Adrenaline rushing. I'm riding waves in Puerto and my soul is ding ding dinging. Morning in Puerto, do you know what you're missing?
A girl is learning in the easy part. Just jump up, I tell her. It don't matter if you make it. Just jump up enough times and you'll get the hang of it. Don't be afraid. Keep jumping. If you keep jumping, you'll get it eventually.
Morning in Puerto, she seems to be happy.
Surf it often enough and you learn how to move your mind quickly. No time for fear or hesitation. Go, and go, and move and go. Twist your body. Body English and style helps your slide, and how you slide is your ride. An ocean glide fits perfectly inside a raging action morning in Puerto.
Don't forget your coffee, and hydrate, because you need to be relaxed when you get to a morning in Puerto. Hop on top of your water shooter and ride, because it's a rolling morning in Puerto. When you're done you'll be in a daze, all day. You made your way through a morning in Puerto, now what? And what could be better?
A big wave with a steep curving ridge take off ramp on the top of it. A boy hoots. I go. The instant the wave has me, I'm up. At the top, a big gust hits me. Blasts me to a stop, holds me there. Instead of down, I'm elevating upward. The last possible instant before getting tossed from the pinnacle of heaving liquid muscle, I begin to drop straight down from out of the sky. Relax, don't move. A smooth landing, accelerating forward speed momentum out in front of this beautiful throwing mass of ocean. Shadows throw far out over my humbling head.
I bring it out, and under, and climb. Drop and climb again. Moving forward down the line. Released and roll to a stop, far away in the deep dark channel. I turn and paddle it back out, for another.
Morning in Puerto, just getting started. Adrenaline rushing. I'm riding waves in Puerto and my soul is ding ding dinging. Morning in Puerto, do you know what you're missing?
A girl is learning in the easy part. Just jump up, I tell her. It don't matter if you make it. Just jump up enough times and you'll get the hang of it. Don't be afraid. Keep jumping. If you keep jumping, you'll get it eventually.
Morning in Puerto, she seems to be happy.
Surf it often enough and you learn how to move your mind quickly. No time for fear or hesitation. Go, and go, and move and go. Twist your body. Body English and style helps your slide, and how you slide is your ride. An ocean glide fits perfectly inside a raging action morning in Puerto.
Don't forget your coffee, and hydrate, because you need to be relaxed when you get to a morning in Puerto. Hop on top of your water shooter and ride, because it's a rolling morning in Puerto. When you're done you'll be in a daze, all day. You made your way through a morning in Puerto, now what? And what could be better?
