Michael Ruhlman's Blog, page 74

Garlic Germ

I'd long been taught that the germ of garlic released enzymes that changed the flavor of garlic. In Skills class at the CIA in 1996, my chef instructor said in the finest starred restaurants you'd find that the cooks removed the germ before mincing, but that for our purposes it was unnecessary. That same chef, [...]

The Forgiveness of Cured Meat: Bacon

I've been slammed this week, and now have to travel, if I can get out in this blizzard. But last week I put a whole pork belly on the cure. I'd given it a sweet cure, brown sugar, maple syrup and black pepper, because I wanted to smoke it rather than make pancetta. It was [...]

The Badass Perforated (aka Egg) SpoonRecipe: Poached Egg with Sauteed Spinach

A couple years ago, nosing around in McGee's On Food and Cooking, I came across his suggestion that one could make neater poached eggs by getting rid of the liquidy, flyaway whites before poaching.  And it works! (There's really no point in adding acid to the water.) Regrettably, I left my good perforated spoon at [...]

No-Knead Bread: A Convert's Story

I recently posted on twitter that I don't believe in no-knead bread, the phenomenon started by Jim Lahey—chef of the excellent pizza restaurant Co., and owner of Sullivan St. Bakery in Manhattan, and author of My Bread—qhwn Mark Bittman wrote about Lahey's no-knead technique in The New York Times. (Here's Lahey's no-knead bread recipe.) After [...]

Canadian Bacon: Brining Basics

Herewith a Canadian bacon recipe (which is American) and a peameal bacon recipe (which is Canadian), inspired by this month's #Charcutepalooza challenge: Brining. Brining in one of the most powerful forms of seasoning, flavoringand curing meat.  Disperse salt and aromatics in water, then submerge a whole muscle into that salted flavored water.  Water surrounds the [...]

Gluten-Free Multigrain Bread

I've been fascinated with gluten-free bread recipes because they attempt to do what shouldn't be possible: create a network of pliable solids that can expand and trap gas released by yeast, giving you a leavened bread without gluten. It's also invariably a good-for-you loaf, with a rich variety of grains. Shauna Ahern, aka gluten-free girl, [...]

Something To Say: Stupidity, Humans, Food

When I'm planning a meal or going to the grocery store, I always check the USDA food pyramid to make sure my list is on track and ensure that I have a healthy lifestyle.  Don't you? The USDA released Dietary Guidelines last week and while they're more sensible than in years past, I honestly wonder, [...]

For Charcutepaloozians:Food Safety and Common Sense

Welcome to the official #charcutepalooza Safety and Health Concerns post and page, and a place where you can ask questions comprising more than 140 characters that I or others can answer.  Have a look at our book Charcuterie for all general safety issues. Many of you are embarking on unfamiliar waters regarding the curing of [...]

Bread Baking Basics App For iPad

Baking bread is one of the oldest forms of cooking, fundamental to civilization and satisfying to the individual soul. Is it because baking bread is so powerful that so many fear it, feel that it's beyond them? Baking bread is easy and and its pleasures are deep, not just for the one baking but for [...]

Homemade Bagels Are a Breeze!

Here is a bagel recipe worthy of the best New York or Jersey deli from a baker in Boone, North Carolina. Bruce Ezzell commented this blog ages ago and elicited a discussion about bagels, which lead to his inspiring journey from being laid off to opening his own bakery. professional baker. I'll let Bruce, @thebreadlist [...]