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Into the Silence: The Great War, Mallory and the Conquest of Everest
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October 2023: Winter > Into the Silence by Wade Davis - 5 stars (Subdue)

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message 1: by Joy D (last edited Oct 26, 2023 08:16AM) (new) - rated it 5 stars

Joy D | 10061 comments Into the Silence: The Great War, Mallory and the Conquest of Everest by Wade Davis - 5* - My Review

If this book were fiction, I’d call it a sprawling epic. Since it is non-fiction, I’ll call it a comprehensive account of the three earliest expeditions to Mount Everest, 1921, 1922, and 1924, all involving George Mallory, and culminating in his and Sandy Irvine’s death. Not only does it cover these expeditions, but it also provides a minibiography of almost everyone involved on the British side. The people from the Tibetan region are covered too, but to a lesser extent, as there is much less documentation available. The author’s theme is that the Great War and beliefs about Empire were critical factors that influenced early mountaineering, particularly with respect to the approach, terminology, and methods of “assault.” Thus, the concept of “conquering” the mountain caught the public’s imagination and represented a victory for Great Britain.

There is a great deal of history covered in this book, and those who enjoy the interrelationships among historic events will appreciate it. It is intentionally long (700 pages) and detailed and is not for anyone who wants to “cut to the chase.” The author does a great job at helping the reader understand the motivations of the people involved and why they were selected to participate. There are many charismatic individuals, and by the end, I felt I knew them. Davis captures their accomplishments but does not ignore their faults. We also learn about their families and their experiences in World War I.

Davis excels at weaving together a colorful and compelling narrative with personal letters, reports, quotes, and telegrams to tell an intensely interesting story. I especially enjoyed the account of the 1924 expedition. The author analyzes several mistakes that contributed to the tragedy. I have read other books about this expedition, and this one is the best by far in analyzing what happened and assembling the pieces of information into the most likely sequence of events that led to the two climbers’ deaths.

It also contains information about the cultural differences between the Asian and European approaches. The Tibetans had no desire to climb Everest, even though they lived next to it and had capable climbers. The author provides insight into Tibetan spirituality and points out the difficulties experienced by the British in understanding the porters they worked with (and relied heavily upon) during the expedition. Basically, the Tibetans wondered why the British would want to climb Everest, and the British wondered why the Tibetans wouldn’t want to climb it. Several notable persons from the region make an appearance, including the Dalai Lama and Mahatma Gandhi.

I found it an immersive reading experience. I particularly liked the way the author linked the various segments of history into an evaluation of cause and effect. It will appeal to those who enjoy learning about the history of mountaineering, as well as readers who appreciate a window to a prior era, complete with insight and analysis.


message 2: by Joanne (new)

Joanne (joabroda1) | 12562 comments This sounds a bit like the one I read this month The World Beneath Their Feet: Mountaineering, Madness, and the Deadly Race to Summit the Himalayas, in the history of the people and the how and what happened.

When I am in the mindframe for more exposer on this subject I will definitely keep this one in mind. Great review.


message 3: by Joanne (new)

Joanne (joabroda1) | 12562 comments Oh, and I would move this one to winter-there is snow and ice involved!


message 4: by Joy D (last edited Oct 26, 2023 01:32PM) (new) - rated it 5 stars

Joy D | 10061 comments Ok, it isn't tagged winter but I guess it fits for those of us in the northern hemisphere. I think you would like this but you'd need to be in the mood for something fairly long and detailed. The writing is fantastic!

ETA - Moved this thread from "Other" to "Winter."


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