Around the epergne on Mr. Marsham’s table are likely to have been cruet stands—elegant little racks, usually of silver, holding condiments—and these, too, have a mystery. Traditional cruet stands came with two glass bottles with stoppers, for oil and vinegar, and three matching casters—that is, bottles with perforated tops for sprinkling (or casting) flavorings onto food. Two of the casters contained salt and pepper, but what went into the third caster is unknown. It is generally presumed to have been dried mustard, but that is really because no one can think of anything more likely. “No
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