Watching Masa run his scary sharp knife through that pale, pornographic-looking tuna, separating and peeling back one layer after another before slicing and applying it to your piece—the piece you know is going to be in your mouth in just a few more seconds—is like sex. In fact it's better than most sex. There is no risk of disappointment. Watching Masa pack about eighty dollars (wholesale!) of that incredible once-in-a-lifetime tuna into a single nori roll makes you want to faint.
