I was intrigued and captivated by the sleaze and desperation, and thanked my lucky stars I had never been here drunk; I don’t think it would have ended well. The town itself made me uneasy, so I got out of there pretty quickly, savoring my solo access to the Jeep’s pitiful heater all the way across the Mojave Desert. The desert is magical at night, and, with the instincts of a bikini model in a slasher movie, I turned off of the interstate and headed out into the wilderness for about five miles. Then I stopped the Jeep on the lonely dirt road and listened to the silence. I got out and walked
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