“The adventure of Madame Clicquot,” wrote Jean-Rémy, “is infamous.” It was an infamous adventure for a woman, perhaps. And, as Jean-Rémy’s biographer puts it, these letters are “sufficiently eloquent to show the rivalry that existed between Jean-Rémy Moët and the Widow Clicquot…. A climate of imitation that flirted with espionage reigned between the two houses.”

