To go back home is not to go on holiday. If you are to go on holiday to Ghana, then you must quietly pack your bags, catch your flight, and on landing at Kotoka international airport, tell no one you are there. You must stay in a hotel, or with a trusted member of the family who doesn’t receive many visitors. You must ask the driver you hire – it’s a driver, taxi or tro-tro, a van converted into a bus service, if you’re trying to get around – not to take certain roads, for fear of being spotted, or that your longing will breach its borders. You must go as if you are a visitor, rather than
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