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We felt again the touch of deep time, of the humans who came before. These mountains are haunted, they were emptied by a genocide. We walk on sacred ground. And listen: that is true wherever you are as you read this, if you are anywhere in the United States, or anywhere in the Americas. Don’t think otherwise. Remember. Ten thousand years.
Muir wrote, “Any fool can destroy trees. They cannot defend themselves or run away.… Through all the eventful centuries since Christ’s time, and long before that, God has cared for these trees, saved them from drought, disease, avalanches, and a thousand storms; but he cannot save them from sawmills and fools; this is left to the American people.”
Land Above the Trees, by Ann Zwinger and Beatrice Willard, does this very beautifully. Their detailed explanations of what they call sky islands—a great illustration of science as devotion—helped me to understand the Sierra’s fellfields better, after which I saw them better too. That’s how seeing works.
basic principles: 1. You don’t need to reproduce your house. In summer and fall in the Sierra, you don’t need much gear to be comfortable. So: don’t take what you don’t need. 2. Incidental dampness is not fundamental wetness, and incidental dampness doesn’t matter. This is a distinction the 1950s designers didn’t acknowledge: you don’t have to stay as absolutely dry as you typically do at home, in order to remain both warm and comfortable. Realizing that makes a lot of gear unnecessary. Condensation on the inside of your tarp? Not a problem. The only thing you really need to worry about is
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My favorite Gossamer Gear pack weighs ten ounces,
Your tarp and backpack are two of what Terry used to call the four big-ticket items. The other two are sleeping bag and ground pad.
When I combine Thorlo trekking socks with Salomon hiking shoes, I’m good to go.
Western Mountaineering is my favorite for down gear, Gossamer Gear for backpacks, Mountain Laurel for tarps. Ground pads from Therm-a-Rest. Socks from Thorlo, boots from Salomon. But for all these items, other companies are also making very good gear (Zpacks, Big Agnes, etc.), as are individual makers who set up online and do great work.
Through the first half of the ’90s I was writing my Mars trilogy, and everything I saw and felt in the Sierra got translated into that project, sometimes quite directly. Indeed the process of terraforming Mars, as described in my novel, was really a matter of turning the Red Planet into something more like the high Sierra. Then in the second half of the ’90s I went to Antarctica, seeing it as a kind of Martian analogue; but here again the Sierra served as my psychogeological benchmark, adding perceptions to my Antarctic experience and my Antarctic novel, and to much of my other fiction from
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As I completed this book a fire threatened the Giant Forest in Sequoia National Park: later it was determined that around 3,600 giant sequoias had died. Twenty percent of all the giant sequoias on Earth have died by fire in the last two years.
backpacking in the Sierra Nevada has been an immersion in a particular wilderness. It’s been a deep joy, impossible to express in full, but nevertheless real. I can bear witness to the experience of wilderness as a space of human joy. We were gamboling up there like kids in a meadow. Yes—seeing those young bighorn sheep fooling around that day in 2008 gave me the clearest image I’ve ever had of the feeling of being up there. I recognized what they were doing, and that made me laugh. Run in circles, pop suddenly into the air, collapse in a tangle—get up and do it again! It’s not virtuous; it’s
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