We’re not Dominican, but it is, in a way, our food too. I don’t know enough about the agricultural history of the Americas, the colonial influence of Spain, or the contributions of the African diaspora to explain why we find food from the Dominican Republic as interchangeably good as food from Puerto Rico or Cuba or Colombia. But we do. Well, my family does. And in particular, my father, who doesn’t pass up an opportunity to be nearer to our people.

