The sky was heavy and a thick band of black, ominous cloud obscured the sunrise directly behind us. We were walking, as always, due west, and everything was cast in the dark shadow of the cloud. As we reached the crest of the hill the sun broke through behind us and the hillside was suddenly flooded in brilliant, golden light. The green of the crops seemed improbably bright and, instantly, the sky ahead of us was a deep, cloudless blue. The intensity of the light stopped me dead in my tracks and as I looked up I saw a red iron cross, staked in a pile of rocks at the top of the hill. Unbidden,
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