Higher incomes have only increased the traditional predilection for sugary creations, and the adoption of pop drinks did the rest: since 1960, per capita consumption of sugar has doubled and it is now about 40 percent above the Japanese level. At the same time, Spanish wine-drinking has been relentlessly declining, from about 45 liters per capita in 1960 to just 11 liters by 2020, and beer has become by far the country’s most-consumed alcoholic drink. The way Spain now eats is substantially different from the way Japan feeds itself—and, most definitely (being the continent’s top carnivore),
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