She told herself this was not a stupid thing to do as Micah tethered the board strap to her ankle and led her toward the water. He stayed right next to her, coaching her as she entered the ocean, jumped over the waves and paddled out beyond the break. The familiar sensation of being buoyed by the surf reminded her why she’d loved the ocean so much as a child. As she lay face-down on the board, Micah treaded water as they waited patiently for the right wave. “I’ll count to three and push you in front of the wave, then you pop up, just like we practiced, okay?” “Okay,” Karina said, taking in the
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I probably wouldn't have envisioned this scene if it weren't for my own personal experiences learning how to surf as a adult. It truly is an exhilarating, inexplicable experience. If I had been younger when I tried it for the first time, I can imagine losing a few years that way. But, alas, it is not a sport for the middle-aged.
