So, the story goes, sometime after mastering farming, humans also began to enjoy the benefits of beer, with similar processes around the world leading to grape, millet, rice, and maize-based alcoholic drinks. People finally had something tasty to pair with their bread and cheese. This is the standard account of the origin of alcohol production—that it’s an accident, an unintended consequence of the invention of agriculture. Around the 1950s, though, this story began to be questioned by proponents of various “beer before bread” theories.1 They pointed out that large-scale, likely alcohol-fueled
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