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“The point is,” Beckett said, turning his eyes on me, “that guy doesn’t care about the rules. He doesn’t care about the temperature or all the other reasons why he shouldn’t surf. He just wants to be on the water and do what he loves. To be out there where no one can tell him what to do or what meeting he has next. Just the wind in his hair and the salt on his lips.” His voice was more passionate than in any line he’d ever delivered.

