The sea has always been a great normalizer for me. If I’m tense and I go into the ocean, I come out relaxed. If I’m lazy and tired and I go in, I come away energized. The ocean either gives me the extra energy that I need or takes away the excess energy that I don’t. Rivers and waterfalls do similar things for me. When I was a kid, I liked to stay in the ocean until I was freezing cold, then go on the beach and roll in the hot sand to warm up. First I rode inflatable surf mats, then Styrofoam boards, and eventually moved up to real surfboards.
