Surfers liked marijuana and hallucinogens like magic mushrooms. We used to go to the cow pastures to pick the golden mushrooms that grew in the cow shit. We would eat the foul-tasting fungus with lime and then go to the beach, paddle out into the surf, and wait for the trip to start. I remember one day when the waves were small but perfect. As the mushrooms came on, I felt like I could see the atoms in the water. Then I felt like an amphibious creature who could stay underwater for as long as I wanted. After I got out of the sea, I walked to a rocky area and my feet felt like part of the rock.
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