Off came the lid of the tureen with a wild escape of steam, smelling of fish like a wharf at sunset. Each of them had a plateful except Annushka, who had a small saucer, not part of the set. She began to wail. ‘You oughtn’t to be here at all,’ Dolly told her. ‘We love you, but you’re superfluous.’ Annushka cried more loudly, and Lisa got up silently and led her out of the room.