‘This is the grocery section. Not the imported groceries, the Russian things. Tinned Sturgeon in wine, potted elk, dried elk, caviare of course, but this isn’t the best kind, partridges in brandy. Then down this way there’s the galanterya, amber beads, kid gloves, silk fans with pearl handles, velvet babies’ boots, all that sort of thing, or you can get peasants’ feast day dresses, you don’t have to buy the whole dress, you can just get a kokosnik or a shugai. Now we’re getting on to the gold and silver and jewellery and the religious objects.’