And here grocery has one last trick: it allows us to hate our shrimp and eat it too. The image of the bad polluting aquaculture farmer or vulnerable exploited migrant gets imprinted in our first-world brain, while the fungibility of commodity goods—that maze of brokers and agents—gives the entire system the plausible deniability it craves. We might demand action about horrid conditions, but the idea of asking us to forgo shrimp, even momentarily, and fill our nonstick woks with some other protein is precisely the type of inconvenience the entire system is built to protect against. And the
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