There are piles of round flatbreads baked directly on a hot stone, sold by a man with kind eyes, a thick, curly beard, and an intricately wrapped turban. There are giant baos the size of my palm, stacked impossibly high in baskets as women yell out their various fillings. One stall is overladen with rich-looking sweets, like dates dripping with honey, and some confections I’ve only seen during festivals and the new year—rice cakes smothered in sweet syrup and long strips of sugar cake, glistening sticky-sweet as they are pan fried or smothered with red bean paste and baked into sweet baos. At
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