watch with fascination as one woman piles dried rice noodles onto the sizzling hot wok and ladles water directly on top; steam rises in thick clouds as the noodles cook instantly. My mouth waters as the other woman cracks eggs directly onto the hot surface, whipping them quickly into a delicate yellow froth. A thick red sauce is poured over everything and the cooked eggs and noodles are stirred together with bean sprouts and fine strips of cabbage. Everything turns a delightful shade of orange. It smells at once both sweet and savory, and I watch as the fat prawns they add quickly turn white
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