This northeastern region on the border of Germany has a long history of going back and forth between the Germans and the French. One of the (many) consequences is that it’s the only region in France that labels wines with their grape varietal rather than their appellation, as is done in Germany. Ninety percent of this region’s wines are white. They used to be on the sweeter side, but today’s tendency is toward a pure, dryish, aromatic style, often with a honeyed, smoky scent.