The red mencía grape is undergoing a perception shift: Once known for its light, slightly herbaceous fruit—not unlike cabernet franc—it’s now delivering an impressive range of styles, depending on the winemaker, at an incredibly good value. The wines from Valdeorras taste like Beaujolais, those from Ribeira Sacra evoke the Northern Rhône, those from Rías Baixas taste more green. One winemaker covering this region in a fascinating way is Raúl
