A cluster of pillared halls and shrines lie at the end of a Ming spirit way, a sacred path. Around them is a grove of nearly 200 cypress trees, which were planted in the Tang dynasty, according to the custodian, who can recite the ancient names of the most venerable ones. Mercifully unmodernised, unprepossessing local shrines like this can be seen all over the deep countryside in China these days, open for worship once more.