Temsutula Imsong—she is thirty-two—born in a village called Ungma in Nagaland. She studied in Shillong, went on to work in Delhi, and in 2012 came to Ghazipur, near Banaras, to join an NGO started by her friend—an ex-Navy man—who is now her husband. That’s how she first set eyes on the ghats of Banaras.