We walked for peaceful hours, sliding in and out of quirky districts: the waterfront world of the Embarcadero, past the Ferry Building’s fresh citrus stands and seaside cafés, into a community constructed along a three-mile engineered seawall from which wide clusters of floating wooden rafts housing plump sunbathing sea lions extended into the Bay, the creatures’ rhythmic barks like feral songs; North Beach with its Italian coffee bars and red and beige tablecloth homemade pasta shops, and the notorious storefront of City Lights bookstore like a sacred beatnik temple, its black and white
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