Coffee: A Global History (Edible)

by Jonathan Morris

Animal Processing Indonesian coffee known as Kopi Luwak is famously processed by palm civet cats. They eat cherries that have fallen to the ground and then excrete beans, effectively performing the de-pulping process. These are collected, washed and finished in the usual way. The enzymes in the cat’s digestive system supposedly impart a unique flavour, enabling the coffee to be retailed for upwards of $100/lb, while a single cup of Kopi Luwak in New York can cost $30. Unsurprisingly other countries have now discovered animals capable of performing the same function, including a Vietnamese weasel, Thai elephants and the Brazilian Jacu bird. Sadly, the fad for Kopi Luwak has resulted in many of the animals being captured and caged to be force-fed coffee beans. Wild certifications do exist but a large proportion of what is sold is presented under false pretences, sometimes having been chemically treated. The bottom line with animal-processed coffee is that what comes out reflects what goes in, and producers can cut costs by using cheaper cherries. The usual qualities ascribed to Kopi Luwak are low acidity and lack of bitterness – these are more about moderating bad coffee than enhancing the good stuff.