The farmer’s land was being incinerated. Lastra Rodriguez needed to find an alternative source. “So I had to drive around asking people in the community. You drive two hours and you ask for Juan. You go there and you ask, ‘Where is Juan?’ They say, ‘Juan is in church.’ ” The hunt goes on and somehow, after six hours of driving around looking for Juan, Lastra Rodriguez comes back to the Noma Mexico kitchen with a crate of piñuelas. “What took you so long?” someone asks him.
