After Mission had failed city health inspections, Chang told Bowien that he had to foster a culture of accountability, cleanliness, and organization in the kitchen. “ ‘You’ve got to get tough on these guys,’ ” Bowien recalls Chang saying. “ ‘You’ve got to yell at people more.’ ” Redzepi disagrees. “The future is not any more of that screaming,” he says. “I used to be so angry in the kitchen. Insanely angry. A monster. I made a decision: ‘What the fuck am I doing?’ You have to make a choice. Do you want to go to work and be miserable? Or be happy?”
