Wine experts, meanwhile, know about surface-level characteristics like grapes and regions—but they think about wine in terms of function: wines that are luscious and fruity, good for pairing with spicy food; wines that are big and bold and can stand up to a hearty meal; wines that are fizzy and festive, fit for a celebration. “Luscious,” “Big,” and “Fizzy” are, in fact, three of the eight categories Wesson devised for his stores (the others are “Soft,” “Fresh,” “Juicy,” “Smooth,” and “Sweet”). Foregrounding these features is like giving customers a shortcut to thinking the way a sommelier
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