Stuff Matters: Exploring the Marvelous Materials That Shape Our Man-Made World

by Mark Miodownik

Another type of reaction, which occurs at a higher temperature, also contributes to the color and flavor of the cocoa: the Maillard reaction. This is when a sugar reacts with a protein. If carbohydrates are the fuel of the cellular world, proteins are the workhorses: the structural molecules that build cells and all their internal workings. Seeds (in the form of nuts or beans) must contain all of the proteins needed to get the cellular machinery of a plant up and running, so there is plenty of protein in the cocoa beans. When subjected to temperatures of 160°C and above, these proteins and carbohydrates start to undergo Maillard reactions, reacting with the acids and esters (produced by the earlier fermentation process) and resulting in a huge range of smaller flavor molecules. It is no exaggeration to say that without the Maillard reaction the world would be a much less delicious place: it is the Maillard reaction that is responsible for the flavor of bread crust, roasted vegetables, and many other roasted, savory flavors. In this case, the Maillard reaction is responsible