The foodie identity can be so completely constructed by its various deeply felt products (the broths of Santouka! the roasted chickens of Waxman’s!) that it transforms itself from a statement of allegiance—like the sports teams you follow or the bands you like—and enters into the realm of the political. Being a foodie means taking a vow to save the Earth, to save small organic farms, and to save poor, overweight, undernourished people from themselves. But then, empty self-righteousness has always paired nicely with a rich sense of entitlement. That earthy taste of stone soup, drizzled in an
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