Champagne is a foolproof gift. But try a bottle that’s not one of the usual suspects. Deutz is great. André Clouet or Louis Roederer are still smart standbys. I like any blanc de blancs, which will be on the dry side, like Ruinart (which isn’t hard to find) or Delamotte. And a secret of New York is that Sherry-Lehmann Wine & Spirits, the blue-chip wine merchant on Park Avenue, deals in so much champagne that their prices are usually the best in the city.

