Passports were not yet required in most European countries, and the leading currencies could be exchanged everywhere; no customs inspector’s eyes turned hard if he heard the chink of gold sovereigns, francs or marks as a traveler’s luggage was shifted. This glorious freedom of movement has inspired some writers to draw an overidyllic picture of pre-1914 Europe as a continent practically without internal frontiers. In reality much depended on who you were and what you were traveling for; there were few restrictions for wealthy and titled pleasure seekers, but some 400,000 of Francis Joseph’s
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