Our last visit was to Hebron, an ancient and beautiful town where Israeli settlers have actually moved into the centre, taking over the upper floors of the buildings above the bazaar, which over the past few years has slowly been throttled by intimidation and lack of access. There were 101 checkpoints in the city, and many places are now unreachable due to roadblocks. Outside the mosque only two Palestinian shops remained. In one the old man burst into tears when talking to us. ‘I shall never leave,’ he said, while the Settler Centre opposite blared out nationalist Zionist songs, drowning out
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