The chill January air poured in through broken windows, the seats had been stripped of green plush that had once covered them, and it was obvious that the cars had not been cleaned for many weeks. This was “Chinese Formosa” and not the Japanese Formosa we had known. We had never seen anything like this dirt and disorder on a public train in our lives. For us, however, nothing could detract from the joy of riding southward again through the beautiful countryside of our island.

