The Complete Labrador Handbook: The Essential Guide for New & Prospective Labrador Retriever Owners (Canine Handbooks)
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puppy. Labradors, like all breeds with working origins, are happiest when they are mentally and physically stimulated.
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If left alone too long or under-exercised, these large, loyal dogs can become bored and even destructive.
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At a minimum, puppies should go out immediately after waking up, about 20-30 minutes after eating each meal, and right before bed.
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Make sure there are no poisonous plants or chemicals in your garden. Common plants toxic to dogs include crocus, daffodil, azalea, wisteria, cyclamen, sweet pea, lily of the valley, tulips, hyacinth and lily. The Kennel Club has a list of poisonous house and garden plants here: http://bit.ly/1nCv1qJ
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Make sure your puppy gets enough time to sleep – which is most of the time in the beginning - so don’t let children (or adults!) constantly pester him. Sleep is very important to puppies, just as it is for babies. Also, allow your Labrador to eat at his or her own pace uninterrupted;letting youngsters play with the dog while eating is a no-no
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in turn leads to hereditary health issues. Research has shown some evidence of hair loss and skin problems with dilute Labradors, see http://research.omicsgroup.org/index.php/Labrador_Retriever_coat_colour_genetics.
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Top 10 Tips For Working Labrador Owners
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Similarly, when you come home, your Labrador will feel starved of attention and be pleased to see you. Greet him normally, but try not to go overboard by making too much of a fuss as soon as you walk through the door. Give him a pat and a stroke then take off your coat and do a few other things before turning your attention back to him. Lavishing your Labrador with too much attention the second you walk
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through the door may encourage needy behaviour or separation anxiety.
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a puppy that leaves the litter too early often suffers with issues, for example a lack of confidence and problems interacting with other dogs, throughout life.
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Breeders who allow their pups to leave home before eight weeks are probably more interested in a quick buck than a long-term puppy placement. In the USA, many states specify that a puppy may not be sold before eight (or sometimes seven) weeks of age. And if you want a well-bred Labrador, it certainly pays to plan ahead as most good breeders have waiting lists.
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Buying a poorly-bred puppy may save you a few hundred pounds or dollars in the short term, but could cost you thousands in extra veterinary bills in the long run - not to mention the terrible heartache of having a sickly dog.
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If the breeder says that the dam and sire are Kennel Club or AKC registered, insist on seeing the registration papers Ignore photographs of so-called ‘champion’ ancestors (unless you are buying from an approved breeder), in all likelihood these are fiction The puppies look small for their stated age. A committed Labrador breeder will not let her puppies leave before they are eight weeks old The person you are buying the puppy from did not breed the dog themselves The place you meet the puppy seller is a car park or place other than the puppies’ home The seller tells you that the puppy comes ...more
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All responsible breeders should provide you with a written contract and health guarantee. They will also show you records of the puppy's visits to the vet, vaccinations, worming medication, etc. and explain what other vaccinations your puppy will need. They will agree to take a puppy back within a certain time frame if it does not work out for you, or if there is a health problem.
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Have the parents been health screened? Buy a Labrador pup with health tested parents – hips and eyes at the very minimum, with certificates to prove it. Ask what guarantees the breeder or seller is offering in terms of genetic illnesses, and how long these guarantees last – 12 weeks, a year, a lifetime?
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Can you put me in touch with someone who already has one of your puppies? Are you registered with the Kennel Club (UK) or AKC (USA) or a member of a Labrador breed club?
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How long have you been breeding Labradors?
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How many litters has the mother had?
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What happens to the female(s) once she/they have finished breeding?
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Do you breed any other types of dog?
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What is so special about this litter?
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What do you feed your adults and puppies?
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What special care do you recommend?
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What is the average lifespan of your dogs?
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How socialised and housetrained is the puppy?
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What healthcare have the pups had so far?
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Has the puppy been microchipped?
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Take your puppy to a vet to have a thorough check-up within 48 hours of purchase. If your vet is not happy with the health of the dog, no matter how painful it may be, return the pup to the breeder. Keeping an unhealthy puppy will only cause more distress and expense in the long run.
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The puppy’s daily routine Feeding schedule Vet and vaccination schedule General puppy care Toilet training
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Socialisation
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His or her nose should be cool, damp and clean with no discharge. The pup’s eyes should be bright and clear with no discharge or tear stain. Steer clear of a puppy which blinks a lot, this could be the sign of a problem. His gums should be clean and pink. The pup's ears should be clean with no sign of discharge, soreness or redness and no unpleasant smell. Check the puppy's rear end to make sure it is clean and there are no signs of diarrhoea. The pup’s coat should look clean, feel soft, not matted - and puppies should smell good! The coat should have no signs of ticks or fleas.
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Choose a puppy that moves freely without any sign of injury or lameness. It should be a fluid movement, not jerky or stiff, which could be a sign of joint problems. When the puppy is distracted, clap or make a noise behind him - not so loud as to frighten him - to make sure he is not deaf. Finally, ask to see veterinary records to confirm your puppy has been wormed and had his first injections.
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submissive dog will by nature be more passive, less energetic and also possibly easier to train. A dominant dog will usually be more energetic and lively. He or she may also be more stubborn and need a firmer hand when training or socialising with other dogs.
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The breeder puts the pup on his or her back on her lap and gently rests her hand on the pup’s chest, or She puts her hands under the pup’s tummy and gently lifts the pup off the floor for a few seconds, keeping the pup horizontal. A puppy that struggles to get free is less patient than one which makes little effort to get away. A placid, patient dog is likely to fare better in a home with
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Watch how he interacts with other puppies in the litter. Does he try and dominate them, does he walk away from them or is he happy to play with his littermates? This may give you an idea of how easy it will be to socialise him with other dogs After contact, does the pup want to follow you or walk away from you? Not following may mean he has a more independent nature If you throw something for the puppy is he happy to retrieve it for you or does he ignore it? This may measure their willingness to work with humans If you drop a bunch of keys behind the Labrador puppy, does he act
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normally or does he flinch and jump away? The latter may be an indication of a timid or nervous disposition. Not reacting could also be a sign of deafness
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Visit their website at www.volhard.com for
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Scoring the Results
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Few puppies will test with all 2s or all 3s, there’ll be a mixture of scores. For that first time, wonderfully easy to train, potential star, look for a puppy that scores with mostly 4s and 3s.
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Avoid the puppy with a score of 1 on the Restraint and Elevation tests. This puppy will be too much for the first-time owner. It’s a lot more fun to have a good dog, one that is easy to train, one you can live with and one you can be proud of, than one that is a constant struggle.
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constantly demand your attention, bite the kids or anything else to hand, cry a lot for the first few days and don’t pay a blind bit of notice to your commands. There is a lot of work ahead before the two of you develop a unique bond. Your pup has to learn what is required of him or her before he or she can start to meet some of your expectations, and you have to understand what your pup needs from you.
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Puppy Checklist A dog bed or basket
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Bedding – old towels or a blanket which can easily be washed (avoid strong detergents) If possible, a towel or piece of cloth which has been rubbed on the puppy’s mother to put in the bed A collar or harness and lead (leash) An identification tag for the collar or harness Food and water bowls, preferably stainless steel Puppy food – find out what the breeder is feeding and stick with it initially Puppy treats (preferably healthy ones, not rawhide) Lots of newspapers for housetraining Poo(p) bags Toys and chews suitable for puppies A puppy coat if you live in a cool climate A crate if you ...more
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Old towels for cleaning your puppy and cov...
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studies have shown that if very young pups are allowed to climb or descend stairs regularly, they can develop joint problems later in life. This is worth bearing in mind, especially as Labs can be prone to hip or elbow problems.
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Just as you need a home, so your puppy needs a den. This den is a haven where your pup feels safe, particularly in the beginning after the traumatic experience of leaving his or her mother and littermates.
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If you have young children, the time they spend with the puppy should be limited to a few short sessions a day. Plenty of sleep is essential for the normal development of a young dog.
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There are literally dozens of plants which can harm a puppy if ingested, including azalea, daffodil bulbs, lily, foxglove, hyacinth, hydrangea, lupin, rhododendron, sweet pea, tulip and yew. The Kennel Club has a list of some of the most common ones here: http://bit.ly/1nCv1qJ and the ASPCA has an extensive list for the USA at: http://bit.ly/19xkhoG
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They are leaving the warmth and protection of their mother and littermates and for the first few days at least, most puppies may feel very sad.
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Young Labs are enthusiastic chewers, so chew toys are a must.
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