the distributors played up the eccentric origins of whatever wild-card winery they’d added to their portfolio. “It was founded five generations ago and revived by his great-granddaughter. . . . There are Roman ruins all along these vineyards and this big hill was Julius Caesar’s vacation home. . . . The winery owns a therapy donkey. . . . There was a made-for-TV movie about the producer’s time in a forced-labor prison. . . .”
