If you learn to love Barolo, “your palate’s not ‘maturing,’ it’s actually becoming unnatural,” Tim said. “You dispose of your natural taste for sweetness and whatever, and even learn to make faces. And not only about the wine, but about the people because it’s part of the criticism. You learn what you’re supposed to like, and you also learn what you’re not supposed to like, and who you’re not supposed to like by association of what you’re not supposed to like. You learn to criticize not only the fucking wine, but the fucking people who like that wine.”