Indian Valley was smoky. Cooking smells began to emerge as the farmland disappeared. San Rafael smelled like sweet-and-sour chicken; Larkspur like potatoes cooking with rosemary. The hulking shadows of Muir Woods provided a final blast of nature—resinous pine and bark, moss, with a hint of shoe polish. I smelled the salty brine of sea air mixed with a thick, soapy perfume of detergent and garlic even before I saw the signs for San Francisco. It was then that I realized I’d driven the whole way without turning on the radio. I’d had other things to pay attention to. CHAPTER NINE The Performance
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