In Provence I drink rosé and Provençal reds, warm with Grenache and spicy with Syrah. In Tuscany I drink Chianti, and wish there was better local white wine – but Fiano and Greco di Tufo come from just down the coast. In Portugal I drink Vinho Verde and love the hard and earthy wines of Bairrada. In Catalonia or the Basque country I drink beautiful local wines; in Greece, Greek; in Morocco, Moroccan. When I am travelling I lose sight entirely of international comparisons, let alone scores. Wine is place.